Great videos. Your video has avoided me configuring my own DIY system that probably wouldn't have worked anyway. I followed this, understood it and had my router working downstairs near the TV in under an hour. Top man!! Thanks 👍👍
If it 's this simple. Then WHY don't they train their people to do this? I'm Genuinely wondering. Sound Great. I'm Gonna get this done this weekend. Thank You!
Can't you just replace the BT cable from the hallway with a really long one, to allow you to move the router into the next room? Or is that creating a latency issue?
Thanks for the help vince. Ive put the wires orange to b and white to a... still no signal. The wire in the house looks intact...had an engineer appointment booked. No one arrived.plusnet reckon the engineer visited the the telegraph pole and done some work and now the line should work....it doesnt. I asked why he didnt knock on the door and test my line. (Poss bullshxt).. any advice?thanks
Hi i understand this video was dont quite a few years ago now and not sure if i will get a reply. Question i have a main socket in my hallway and have put a extension to my router like in the video, however i want to put a second router in my loft using the same method is that possible having a second router on the same BT line? Many thanks
Hi, would it be possible to move the master sock about 5 feet by putting a junction box mid line because I need to blank off the original socket and move new wire behind stud wall and relocate master socket Thanks Chris
Hi Vince great videos. I have the same master socket with the a and b as in the video. I want to move my router sky, to another room at the moment the extensions are all in the filtered, the other end has just one cable white blue in the 5 connection, should I move that to 2 and connect the blue white to 5? Thanks in advance.
my old socket only uses a and b thats all it has the new face place that does adsl and phone socket is coming what shall i connect the 2 wires to as i dnt have a ring wire the colors are blue and white and blue will going into a and b work or will that bypass filter?
Hi Vince I have a master socket downstairs and need internet upstairs What I have is white blue orange So I have put white to A and blue to b and left the orange out And still no internet upstairs only phone ihave checked sockets and all sockets are wired the same any help would be appreciated Russell
Hi Vince I live in a bungalow my BT is in the hallway it has A & B in it. The extension goes up in to the attic and down to the kitchen, From the kitchen up to the attic to a junction box and down to the living room where I would like to put my internet box, Now do I run another cable from the junction box to the A & B in the hallway? If so which wires. Or which wires do I connect to the A & B from my kitchen? I hope you can understand all this. Thomas.
Hi Thomas, I know this is a bit late, but it can be done, you will just need filters on all of the extensions on the path to the extension you would like to connect the router. If I understand correctly, your master socket has two extensions connected, one of which goes to the kitchen which eventually goes to the living room through the attic. If this is correct, what you should to is connect the extension leading to the kitchen to A and B, and then connect filters in the kitchen for voice, and in the living room for voice and data. I hope this helps!
Sub'd & Liked. New to your channel. As i am moving home and will get new broadband provider. House has existing sockets in many rooms. I ve followed the video a few times now and expect this will help me place router and maybe an extension (router) for teenage children ? Look forward to your reply and further help. Thanks.
Hi Vince, in this video you use A and B to send the unfiltered signal to the extension which then requires the need for a microfilter. On a previous video ('Increase your Internet Broadband Speed by 60% by using an ADSL faceplate and ADSL extension') you demonstrated sending both filtered and unfiltered signal by utilising unused wires - couldn't you have done the same here? Is this just an alternative method to achieve the same? Is either method preferable over the other? Or will the other method I refer to only work with twisted copper wire from a quality extension?
+Dave Garrick Hi, you would need a good quality extension on both setups. On the 60% video the signal travelled through another socket on route so in my opinion I think it is better to keep the ADSL/VDSL signal separate otherwise it is going through a socket and another microfilter before reaching the socket you want to move the router to. BUT...if you have a direct run to the socket where you want to move the router to without any sockets in between then I think the result will be very similar between the 2 videos. Thanks Vince.
Thanks for your clear answer Vince. I guess a better option would be to use CAT5e/CAT6 cable to extend? Is there a way to tell (by visual inspection rather than cutting) the quality of the extension wiring? I know the cheapo, flimsy flat DIY-type cable is easy to spot but how do you recognise the good-quality BT cabling? What makes it good? Is it the solid wire instead of stranded, the twisted design or the diameter of the core? Thanks again Vince. Dave
+Dave Garrick Hi Dave, definitely better to use cat5e or Cat6 if running new cables but on the older cables the main thing is that they are pure copper, solid core and twisted. If it was installed originally by BT then you will be fine because they use good cable (not as good as cat5e/cat6). If it is stranded then it will not punch in properly to the IDC terminals which may cause a bad connection and often stranded cables are not twisted pair like the flat cable you mentioned. All telephone cables are approx. 0.5mm and it can be very hard to spot bad cables such as CCA (copper clad aluminium) because telephone cables are normally unmarked so they all look similar. Cheers Vince.
Hi Vince some great videos. Not directly connected but more a wondering. I have a cat 6 network wired in around the house with wall sockets in every room (including one next to the phone socket) - I'm assuming I can run a standard RJ45 cable from the Mark4 faceplate to my wall patch box then at the other end of the patch put the rj45 to rj11 into the the new smart hub ? I don't need any other phones so this seems to be a good way to get the hub out of my hall and into my tech cupboard under the stairs. Make sense ?
Hi, yes that makes complete sense and it will work. Might be useful to know that in the future you can even patch the voice through to another location if you have another cat6 socket near the MK4 BT socket and even if you don't have another cat6 socket you could use voice/voice economisers to send 2 voice signals (one ADSL/VDSL and one normal voice) from the one cat6 socket. Handy to know if you need to connect a SKY box to the telephone line for example :-)
my one when I open the master socket it has the two A and B wire things but it's not Labelled what do I do there do I follow what you did in this video and I don't have a extension fitted on my master socket so should I first fit an extension and then connect the blue and white blue wires to A and A ( keeping in mind my master socket doesn't have the Labelled A and B ports
+M T tech Hi, no, the A and B at the back of the main socket should be left alone for just the incoming main wires to allow you to use the test socket in case you or the next owner has a fault on the line, if you attach an extension onto them then it may cause problems in the future and also you will have bypassed the benefits of the Iplate. Thanks Vince
im stuck mind boggled confused ive got mk4 i snipped the j11 plug conected two wires to the mk4 two wire block used wire plug rj11 in mk 4 socket to router one what was wired in block was plugged in modem router worked when plugged one what was wired to connection block cut off connection what was working router
Hi Jase, any chance you could send a photo of your setup. You should not have to cut any RJ11 plugs off to relocate the filtered signal to a new socket. The A and B should be on the mark 4 faceplate, it just uses the toolless wire sockets instead of the idc terminals shown in the video.
Hi Andy, it will work your way but the proper way is to not touch the main incoming A and B terminals because if your new cable becomes faulty it will put a fault on the telephone line because it has bypassed the test socket. So the test socket is not a reliable way of testing for faults if you connect onto the main A and B terminals. Hope that makes sense. Thanks Vince
Sorry to HiJack another thread but is this for someone who wants to move their router to another phone line socket thing in the house?. I'm currently getting weak Wi-Fi signal with my HH4 and plan to change the router soon but I just want to get the best signal/range in the house possible. My router is in front of the house and I'm at the very back...cheers James
Thinking of joining BT broadband, think again and beware you will be charged GBP 31.00 for stopping their service, this is even if you are NOT under the contract. BT is rip off !
