blindabinda123 right. When we purchased the engine from the engine supplier they provided compression test numbers to us. I didn’t mention that because we were more concerned of main or rod bearing failure (knocking). Which can be common on imported engines. But you’re correct. You can alway compression test for your self 😉👍🏼
CoreyHosford I knew you guys really weren't worried about it cuz you were building it. Just was surprised you guys didn't mention it. Thanks for the reply good friend.
A little clarification for 4:30. The reason you cannot swap cam caps between heads or get the caps out of order is because when the head was cast the cam caps and the head were one piece of metal. They, then, cut the caps from the head they go to and machine the journals to the proper size. If you move caps from one head to the other or you put them in the wrong order you will have tolerance problems. The issues resulting are going to be either low or high oil pressure issues. The cams will eat the journals and send glitter all through out your oiling system if you don't catch it quickly.
When I bought mine from an importer, it was in similar shape, at least in the head with the brown/golden discoloration. Took a risk with just making sure the compression was good and ran it. So far it is running well. You're going to really enjoy this engine!
I have bought 2 JDM motors and each one was in immaculate condition. They are barely broken in engines at 50 to 60k miles. VQ engines that I have bought for my 300zx have been in perfect condition. I have gotten them from two different companies.
Not a bad looking motor, we’re also doing a JZ swap on our drift car. Best of luck with your motor, I’m sure with the new internals it will make good power for a long time 🤘🏾
The coloring is fine,oil is a fortune in Japan and that is what all the good JDM motors I've seen look like.Its the clean ones that get you.Too clean is a red flag since some guys flush them with diesel or other solvents to make them appear better.
The oil staining looks normal for a conventional oil, religious 4k changes. That was pretty damn clean compared to what I see out here. Car prob had a boost leak and never fixed it or leaking valve seals. I would have ran it as is as long as compression test came out decent.
yeah, my motor had 65k miles on it when it was removed from the chassis and it had decent oil staining. all maintenance was done by a toyota dealer in tokyo as well.
yep i picked that up too, staining is 100% normal and proof that its a well maintained motor as staining is VERY minimal. These guys really dont know wtf their talking about
I've bought 2 with good compression that had very high miles one spun a bearing at 500whp 2000 miles later the other looked good until I got to the bearings they may run trans fluid or some kind of cleaner threw the engine to clean it before they pull it out.
There are plenty of signs to suggest misuse and lack of maintenance - talking about sludge covering the cam-cover bolts isn't sufficient. That's a leaky valvecover gasket. Common on older engines. Talking about slight staining of the cam caps - a "Darker Brown", so to speak. That's also not sufficient. The cam cover area gets lots of splash and oil will sit on top of the cam caps. I've pulled apart 150k+ Toyota engines with that darker brown in some spots in the cam area and those were fantastic running engines with minimal oil consumption and good leakdown. Cam lobe wear however, is a good indicator. The head is always the hardest part to lubricate. It's the furthest from the pump. If you see wear on the cam lobes, you can just button it up and talk about a replacement engine, because if a rotating part going half the speed of the crank is showing significant wear on the contact surface, you can bet other surfaces are the same or worse.
The most educational video on my future build I have ever seen, AND it was posted on my birthday. This is fuckin amazing. Why no mention of a compression test thought?
Ashy, when we purchased the engine from our supplier, they provided the compression test results for us. This is protocol for most good engine importers.. We just forgot to mention it in the video! Thanks for the kind words!
That makes sense. But still, they said they drained the engine when they shipped it to you. That wasn't true either. It really doesn't matter though since you guys were going to rebuild the beast anyway.
Ashy, I mean clearly this guy is a money spender not a mechanic they could have told him it was twin turbo but with special internal turbos he would have bought it ...
I've a question maybe you'd be able to help me. I have a 2002 2.4 V4 Toyota Camry. I love my car but recently I've noticed that white smoke has been coming out the tailpipe (Only for a couple of seconds and only in the mornings) . I had it checked out and my mechanic is saying my head gasket is going out. I've noticed that I've been losing coolant every so slightly. My engine has 134k miles on it. My mechanic is charging me 1500.00 to replace the gasket. I have many JDM shops that sell used engines around my area for 1200.00. Labor is around 1K to put it in. A total of 2200.00. I also found a rebuilt engine on offer up for 900.00 + 1K to put it in but I don't know who rebuilt the engine. I don't do any tuning and I'm not a mechanic myself. I just want reliability and I want to get to point a to point b. I live in So Cal. What do you suggest? Thank you for your video it was very informative and your advice is very much appreciated.
Could always try head gasket sealing fluid, might buy you a few years. Head gasket itself you can change yourself with a friend in a weekend, it's not as hard as everyone makes it out to be. Just a ton of little steps, if you have the factory maintenance manual that helps alot.
"shows it has some age on it" - seeing the last 2jz-gte was made in 2002 I can reveal all the engines have some age on them. Its also common for staining on the top from modern synthetics, never happened with PAO oils but ester and refined mineral oil lubes do tend to give rise to this staining. Something that does darken with age but something that is pretty common to and not so much an indicator of infrequent oil changes. My engine gets an oil change every 1,000 miles whether it needs it or now and has staining on the cams.
Keep in mind 2j engines are very old now(more rare), almost all of them will have "high miles" with wear even the jdm engines so this is normal, Subaru EJ engines are the same people put alot of miles on them, 100k+
who ever these guys are, they were very informative and they are invited to my wedding in the Carribbean if they set up my engine one day when i buy it in 54 yrs
I bought a JDM 5sfe engine and found a semicircular piece in the exhaust manifold and pulled it out with a magnet. I was told it was carbon and Japanese gas is rich and has impurities and causes this. I didn't know carbon was metallic. It was about an inch long and looked like the part @8:20, with that curvature.
Carbon is not magnetic, you pulled out a piece of iron. The circular thing is one of the rod bearings, which is absolutely essential, and if yours was free floating then there's a big problem. I'm sure you've figured out your situation already, but I write this for other people who read this.
Couple of quick things... Firstly you won't get an import engine that isn't pressure cleaned as they are required by law to clean it to a certain standard so you don't import unwanted parasites. If they did ship it not washed it will need to be washed at the other end before customs will release it. Typically they clean them as they pull them out of vehicles so they are stored clean. One thing thing to point out on an import 2JZ is whether you got what you paid for. If you import it as a turbo engine and it doesn't have the oil injectors then you got ripped off and supplied an NA engine instead. Japanese are notoriously bad for not doing oil changes, so a really clean engine is the exception to the rule.
Like the video, I subbed for sure. Please though please look at the lense when you talk into the camera. Can’t stop seeing your eyes staring above the camera, don’t know what your looking at, maybe the playback screen or something. Thank you for making this video though it is dope
When I went to an importer we looked at a 2j that had 180 compression on cylinders 2-6 cylinder 1 had 20. He told us his battery was dead so we leave and come back a few hours later. He kept insisting we try to retest the motor and we did. Had 100 compression on cyl 1. My friend looked in it and the added trans fluid in it to raise the compression. Finally found a motor with 180psi across the board dry, and he kept insisting me buy the first engine we looked at smh
Generally the motor looks good. I've seen oil stains that are darker but the engine seems to run fine. I would try a compression test first before opening it up.
A good motor. Looks like 80k miles on a typical Japanese motor. It could of been resealed and put right into a project and fired up..!!! 2 or 3 oil and filter changes and it would be cleaner inside
clean it hone it new bearing custom grind cams most these guy hand over cash unnecessarily in a build on say cams n cranks like no one ever herd of offset grinding a stoker crankshaft n then go buy a BC stoker kit for obscenity levels of cash the old racers from my youth never could or would build that in most cases ...thanks for video i got to pull one apart i bought a na sc300 engine few months ago
I like how were supposed to take this guy seriously as being knowledgeable in importing engines yet doesnt perform a basic compression test to match the spec results the exporter sold him on, then acts surprised when they didnt drain the oil after he dumps a couple quarts onto his shop floor... facepalm
I normally just get older salvaged USDM Lexus non VVT-I 2JZ's and rebuild with better pistons. the rods are the same as the 2JZ-GTE, the block just doesn't have piston oil squirters...
The color is NOT indicative of whether the oil wasn't changed regularly enough. Sludge would be the indicator. There is no visible sludge in the top end.
How much did you pay, and can you recommend somebody/ website plz. I’ve been very interested in gettin a 2j for a long time but I’m afraid to blow a lot of money on a garbage Motor.
I bought a jdm trans for my 02 civic here in LA for 250 ,installed it and works fine but got a p070 code so I used all sensors from the old trans on the jdm but code keeps coming back so I researched this and found that you will get this code on 01 to 05 civics if you use jdm trans and you cannot get rid off the code lol this sucks so I just sold the car cheap but I told them what the problem is they still wanted it.never again.dont buy jdm trans for 01 to 05 civics automatics.
Is that an Aristo 2jz? That's an rare 2jz engine. And it's still in good condition.. How much you paid for it? Should have went with the Supra 2jzge with no vvi better rods
What's the point of disassembling an engine after you buy it second hand? Will the company/storehouse return it with refund? I doubt it. Are you going to rebuild the whole engine if there's an issue? Idk I think it be cheaper to sell it and find another one? So why pull it apart like this?
Is the VVTI Motor better for lower end torque and responsiveness even with an after market turbo? And if so how much quicker would it spool up by with a moderately sized Pulsar turbo for around 400-700hp?
problem is warranty on a used engine is void once you pull the oil pan off. I bought an imported 1jz, pulled the oil pan off the swap to a different pan, noticed a bent connecting rod. sent photos to where I bought it, no returns, no refund. all depends where you buy from. looks like you got a nice one though!
Curtis Chornohos came here to say this exact thing. Had a buddy go through something similar. Bought a super clean (from the outside) 2jz vvti. Pulled the head to change headgasket before dropping it in the car and the piston walls were scored and pitted really bad. He ended up fighting the company that sold it to him and his bank refunded him.
I dropped my phone while watching the video before this one...let's just say I seriously freaked the fuck out! Glitchy ass video scary the poop outta me
Are you able to know how it’s looks like inside, these are all used imported from japan, all JDM shop buy from auto auction , some people do change oil on time, some people don’t change normally, it’s not JDM importer problem , because JDM shop buy run drive car
Soo the video shlould be re named " how to half ass inspect and pull apart a 2jz you just bought too see if you got ripped off". Nice pre dis assemble comp test btw. Some fkn half assed skills there champ.
First thing I did after getting my JDM was try an inspect the timing belt. But the motor would not roll over. I pulled the plugs and found the cylinders were full of water. Mine came from JDM Engine Depot in NJ. I got ripped off. Check out the video on my page.
Should bore the piston chamber to 3.3ltr,toyota's engines are bulletproof,love skylines,everything nismo and top secret but can't beat the supra or Toyota engines,Nissan are actually just as good
Wouldn’t of been cheaper just buy brand new block and head than just buying a whole engine from Japan that needs rebuilt anyway? But this will decimate all if you put 10 grand or more in it with overnight parts from Japan.
