An excavator and some elbow grease and you can remove the bed in about 20 minutes. Mine took longer for a couple reasons but it still was pretty easy to do.
The best rust protection I've found is to clean up the frame as best as you can, treat it with a rust converter and then paint the frame with an oil based paint like XR Rust or Rustoleum. Then coat everything down with Fluid Film every year. 1996 F-250 living in upstate NY, been battling rust since I was 16 - Fluid Film is the real deal.
What I did with my 94 F150 wire wheeled the frame went to Home Depot and bought four cans of Rust-Oleum spray-on bed Liner coating. The spray-on bedliner worked awesome
Imma keep up with all your videos. Working on mine now I Let It Go for a few years but it's coming back together. Good luck with the build and upgrades.
Build the flatbed out of wood. There are lots of videos on how to do it. Start with 4x4's bolted down going across the frame for your support for the wooden flat bed then choose your wood to use for the bed. White oak, Ipe(looks like mahogany but hard as a rock and durable) or regular 2x6 or 2x8 boards or planks treated with a wood preservative or used motor oil/diesel mixture.
@@heyitsmedouglasheyitsmedou1312 me and my friend had to remove the bed to replace the rear fuel pump so much easier than dropping tank just to let u know if the pump in your truck goes out
It’s the same. You can park under a sturdy tree and use ratchet straps to slightly lift it off the frame. Check out a few videos back and I show how I did the exact same thing.
I don’t recall what size nut is on the bottom side but you just need a ratchet, a standard depth socket or an open ended wrench. An extra set of hands to hold the bottom side tool on is helpful. If you’re alone, you can get 4 of the 6 off by yourself (the 4 corners). Put your wrench or ratchet on the top side and then go underneath the truck and do the ratcheting down there. The tool on the top side will hit the tailgate and also the front of the bed and you’ll be able to get those off.
If you mean the ones that attach to the excavator, you can use the four corners and latch on under the bed rail. To keep them from sliding to the middle, you could use a C style clamp (you’d need 4 of them) and clamp them on the bed rail.
I can’t imagine it would be too much different. I could see the bolt holes being in slightly different places but it should be a very similar process. Try it.
He bought it brand new but without a bed (it is NOT a cab and chassis). He always put flatbeds on his trucks. He got sick and couldn’t farm any longer and needed to sell the bed to pay some bills. He bought the mismatched colored bed circa 2014 bc it was cheap. Truck is a 96.
I have a 93 f350 and a 97 f250. I’m swapping beds. 93 has reg bed and 97 has reading utility bed with ny cancer. I’m swapping 93 bed to 97. Went to remove the 93 bed.... snapped bed mount bolt 😂
I’m assuming u did it seeing how old this video but for new people seeing this comment what I did was go through the whole thing with wires wheels wiped it down with rust dissolver then bought rustoleum high performance primer and gloss black and it looked good as new I wouldn’t do it with grinders because the grinder leaves lines and imperfections on the frame
Wow good thing you caught the leaf spring mounts before you drove it anywhere. That woulda been a mess. I'm about to take my bed off to fix my front fuel pump, which is completely fricked of course. Can't wait to deal with the bed bolts. Whoever thought that was a great idea should be taken outside and shot immediately lol
Karen, I’ll just cut the frame in half evenly on both sides and put some JB weld on it. Should be able to still haul about 47,000 lbs with a serious set up like that. Let me know if you need any other advice.
@@heyitsmedouglasheyitsmedou1312 if you have a welder you could get some big steel box section and completely rebuild the rusted section of the frame if you’re planning on restoring the truck
