HOW TO OPEN Sentry floor safe with lost combination, re-purpose repair reuse 

They are pretty tough even though they are inexpensive.

Sweet. My next roadside safe goes to you.

How hard was it to do this? I’m concerned with anything that could permanent damage the safe and make it harder to open.

This comment was the most helpful in letting me get in it. I took the screw off, it took a lot of prying to actually remove the dial. Hitting it with a hammer did nothing for me, it kept springing back without any results. What did it was drilling a good size hole (I think it was 3/8”) with one of the dewalt titanium drill bills I have. The concrete (or whatever that is) was no match for the bit. I drilled through the inside metal which directly exposed the wheels. I could see it with the flash light. I took a 1/4 punch and hammered away at the wheels themselves, and after about 10 minutes I was able to push them in so far the latch opened.

@@Eleminowhat would happen if I don’t use a drill bit I got the same safe in the video

@@Elemino I punched the lockout and I heard something fall through and now when I stick something through the hole, I could feel it hit the back of the wall so I punched it all the way through, but it’s still locked. What do I do next? i’m trying to keep it as in tack as I can so I could at least use it as storage.

You should do a video on that.

Thanks.

How?

Where to look how to manipulate this type of sentry?

@@BrendanEReed Search for "The National Locksmith Guide to Manipulation". That will provide all of the information you need.

@@MK-ge2mh thanks

I sold that years ago to someone who wanted a demo door. Thanks for the offer.

Any steel drill will do. The insulation is soft as drywall.

@@iowaunemployment Thanks for answering my question so fast. I had no idea what that insulation was made out of but drywall material makes sense. My biggest problem will be what is in the safe. I know I have at least one metal box in there and plenty of important papers like vehicle titles, birth certificates, house papers. I figured it was the best place to keep that kind of stuff in being it’s fireproof up to so many hours. I am going to put the safe on its face when I drill into it so whatever is in there will move enough forward so when I break through with a drill bit the bit shouldn’t touch anything. This way I can see what size hole the camera will fit into so I can see what I have through my cell phone and know where to place my second hole. I will let you know how I make out. Thanks again. Waiting for the Endoscope camera to come. Found a decent one at a good price that I can probably use again for other projects I believe so maybe it is worth getting one.

@@ffas23 Sounds like fun to me. If all else fails, but the bottom out.

@@iowaunemployment Wasn't too much fun as I spend a hour or two Tuesday night drilling holes sticking the Endoscope in but I have too many documents inside of it. Can't get the camera up to the front behind the door from drilling the back wall of the safe. That means I can't get a long Screwdriver up front to take that one screw out to pop the plate. Went in from the top front and left side hoping to get a better look with the camera. Can't see nothing from the side but from the top I can barely read one of the stickers behind the door and the other below it I could not read at the moment because there are metal boxes in there pushed up to the front not giving me any room in there. Just curious do you know if these units have a actual Serial Number? I never found one on the outside of the unit. Thought it may be on one of the stickers I remember stuck to the back of the door. I would of had no problem doing what I wanted to do if I had a empty safe so to say. I am just trying to avoid destroying important family papers inside. Not ruling out doing what you did as a last resort going in through the bottom to still be able to repurpose the safe. Wednesday will be another day to look at it as I needed to walk away being the Endoscope camera system was running out of battery life and needed to be recharged again and they take a few hours to charge up from what I have seen.

@@ffas23 Hand in there. I have only seen serial numbers on the outside of the safes. Never saw one inside. I think you need a metal cutting handsaw. Cut out the first bottom metal with a 4.5 inch grinder. Remove the insulation. Then drill 4 holes in the final metal sheet and use a handsaw to cut out the bottom. It will go faster than you think. You can also score the metal in the final sheet with your grinder and make it easier to cut with a hand saw. Good luck.

Different model or has it been tinkered with?

@@iowaunemployment it's slightly different than this one but not much different. Behind the blue disc is solid metal.

@@john19812003 Darn, sorry I can't help.

And this is the most reliable way to fire off such a relocker, permanently locking the safe. Unless you want to spend $300-$500 having the safe drilled by a locksmith.

These are very low end safes which is why it is not cost effective to rediscovery a combination.

No, I never did find the model number. I would not have used it cause it is $30 to get the combination from the manufacturer. Just not worth the cost. Shop on Ebay to find similar models and maybe match it up .

@@iowaunemployment Did you find the model number? I'm just trying to look up the locking mechanism type. It doesn't matter much, as I'm going to crack it through manipulation. But different combination lock types prefer different manipulation methods.

Sorry, if the model no is not in the video, I do not have it. I dispose of these rather quickly.