PDF of the book: drive.google.com/file/d/0B89g... Amazon page for the book: www.amazon.com/Safecracking-E... Graph paper image to print: i.imgur.com/Pz6DzVu.png Next video will cover which number in the combination we found.
OK, this is really cool. Thanks for this series. It makes me want to get myself a test to play with, since this method appears really harmless to do, even on a safe that is in use.
For lockpicking, usually it's best not to pick locks in use because there is a risk of damage. But for safecracking, you are correct that there is no such risk! I used to go to a sports store and manipulate all their safes there as practice.
I’ve got an old safe in the floor of my closet that the people we didn’t know the combination to so I just haven’t been able to use it since we moved in. I’m hoping to use this to get it open! Thanks for the great video!
@@marcpappas4334 Yes! There wasn’t any treasure inside but it’s still nice to be able to use it! Sorry for the extremely late response. I just now saw your reply.
I think (with a spirit of kindness) that it needs to be a hybrid video of the other video where he defeats the lock on camera and this with a set script. Simply, rotate left 4x to set AWL, Rotate Right (or whatever the next step is) to find XX. Etc, Etc, Etc. There's too much mental clutter jumping from talking point to point, and then backtracking to cover a forgotten point from earlier. I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who found this difficult to follow, I'm glad some others have found success from these videos, but unfortunately I'm not in that group (yet).
It made way more sense after going back and watching the first two videos. The algorithm brought me here first. Definitely watch the first two, then come back to here.
13:50 And if you cannot find any obvious gate signature, you could always go for the lowest point regardless of any signatures. That point will have lowest shadowing by the wheel packs so if you park 2 wheels at that location and graph one wheel, you should get more accurate image for that one wheel because the other 2 have minimum possible shadowing. The closer the fence is the middle of the pack, the closer you're opening the lock.
Hey man, watched your whole series but I'm having an issue. The safe I'm working on is an old Sentry Safe 2236 and the dial has "play" in it. Is this good, meaning I can easily feel the contact points or bad meaning the dial is worn and it essentially has a dead zone.
Where did you get the lock you use to demonstrate? Or failing that, does anyone know where I can get a similar one? I want to practice on a physical dial combination lock instead of "Sophie's Safecracking Simulator" haha
this serie very well made and explanations are easy to understand. Thx for that. I just have a questions, how do I know if a lock is 3 or 4 wheel on a locked safe ?
I just changed the combination on my safe yesterday and have fallen down this safecracking rabbit hole this morning. My best guess on how to figure out if there is a fourth wheel would be to keep spinning the dial like your going to input the first number and see if you get the friction from picking up another wheel.
Does anyone know why my graph doesn't have a pattern to it? In other words, the top section is not mirrored with the bottom section. They look very different, even though I'm only about a third of the way done, but still. Lock Manipulator's graph was perfectly mirrored (Or near enough) and mine look nowhere near close to one another. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks In Advance
Great set of videos. I have a Chubb combination safe that I'm trying to manipulate. It has a dial with the range 0-100, but this range does not cover all 360° of the dial. Instead it is something like 0° - 330°, so I have an area on the dial (approx 30°) where there are no marks. I can hear the contact points in this non marked region, so I'm wondering how I would go about graphing. Would I need to add marks (maybe 101-120 for example)? Thanks.
Hey mate. These are excellent videos! Very easy to follow. Just one question. I have found my contact points between 60 and 71 but after mapping it appears that the gate signature might be within the contact points (i.e. at 69). Is this possible?
It’s a great video but I was not able to understand anything! I do have a question though. Can anyone break into someone’s house and feel these ‘contact points’ and eventually crack the safe? Is it common for burglars to know how to find the combination numbers through the way you are showing in this video?
There are very few scenarios in which a burglar will be trying to crack a safe with this method and it means there are many other shortcomings with your security as a whole. It's similar to lock picking in the sense that the vast majority of burglar's are quick fast and very destructive. The safe you have in your house will be more likely to be axed into or broken open with tools then manipulated
What if I can't feel 1 of the 2 contacts. There is a circular ground safe at a school O work at that hasn't been open in 20 years. I want to try and open it. The dial also pushes in ward, not sure if that has an effect on it. Any help would be great.
I have been having a problem with my safe lock,, I have been in touch with S&G but they haven't been any help. I programed a new combination into it, and it works good and unlocks, however when I turn the combination to the left to relock, the wheels turn a short distance, the lever begins to lift up, but the bar comes in contact with the gates, stops and won't lift up enough to allow the re-locking process to finish. I'm stumped and don't know if a new lock will work as the locking bar is longer than the newer ones. I can see the digits stamped in the case, 8-83. It also has an additional wheel against the case that has notches that interface with a small notched wheel within the case. I have no idea what the function of that wheel is. I just want to get this lock up and running without purchasing another. Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds like you have something binding the wheels to the drive shaft so when you turn the dial the wheels are turning too, making them lock the fence in place. Hard to tell without looking at it myself though.
1) Sounds like you set the last number of the combo within the drop in zone. That means it will open but not lock. With a 1983 manufacture date the last number should not be between 0 and 20. Change the code so the last number (wheel 3) is above 20. 2) The notched wheel you are referring to is the wheel pack tension device. It adjusts the dial tension.
@@adelarsen9776 definitely set the last number in the "Forbidden Zone" as it's sometimes called. Depends on the orientation the lock is mounted. Check the instructions for that lock.
@@thetoecutter13 Hello friend. With the S&G R6730 and R6731 the lock case may be mounted in any position (VU, VD, L and R) and the drop in zone remains the same IE between 0 and 20. The spline is always keyed at 50 and the handing is set by the drive-cam position as above. Hope this helps you. Happy and healthy new year to you :-)
There are no 8ths displayed on the dial itself but you have to mentally split each number into 8ths as whole numbers aren’t accurate enough when your graphing the contact points.
The dial I have starts at 20 and ends at 100 with about an inch of nothing in between. How do I find the contact area? Do I stop at 50 and turn to 40 so that I have some numbers to the left of 30??? Or do I put it to 100? Please advise.
@@user-ym4yt9bo2u Sentry safes use a different type of lock. And not all are the same. If the dial locks up when you try to turn the handle, it's probably a direct entry safe lock. You can find information on cracking them by googling "direct entry safe manipulation".
@@lockmanipulator I have a Sentry D888 safe and was surprised to find out it is equipped with a Sargent and Greenleaf lock. I'm trying to crack that sucker open
Sentry safes usually have a key override somewhere. I can usually find it under the screwed in logo. Frankly, sentry safe to me is a misnomer. It is a century fire box. There is nothing safe in there other than protection from fire. They are not good quality. You can usually open them with out having two crack the code but by attacking the key override.
Manufacturers use different locks so you'd have to look at the locks to see. If the lock is by the safe container manufacturer, it is most likely a different type of lock.
So it takes about 17 minutes to explain to uneducated clods how to find that first number. How long would it take someone skilled in the technique to determine the combination and open a safe?
It can be consistently done in about 5-10 min. Once you learn it, it starts to become intuitive and you are able to quickly spin through without needing to stop and think.
I agree, if only in the beginning for the viewer to appreciate how hand movements must be precise to reach a certain goal. Show a lever hitting contact points and high points on the wheels. Then these images will be in our minds when the (blind) graphing starts. Or, use a two-camera, front and back setup.
