Didn’t inspect the bearing rollers for damaged before you repacked them. The cheap Chinese bearings supplied now days don’t last. 1/4 turn out on the castle nut would leave a lot of play, and is probably too much in most cases. Also, Dexter wants you to set the bearing first, with a 50 lb tourque on the nut, then back of the nut and set it hand tight, not back it off 1/4 turn. I’d rather follow the axle manufacturers instructions.
You just described the way I've always done it: snug the castle nut up with a tool, back it off and then retighten with fingers. If it doesn't line up with cotter pin holes, back it off a tiny bit until it does. I've also always cleaned the bearings and inspected them. Roll them around in your fingers to fee whether they're gritty after they're cleaned before repacking.
Great video up until the part where you cleaned the brake shoes and surrounding area. Spraying brake cleaner near or on grease could contaminate the shoes by dripping on it. You do not want any type of grease on brake shoes. The way you did it was out of order and the excess grease should have been wiped off first and then spray the shoes and surrounding area of brake dust.
I gave you a thumbs up because you caught that! But, if you are aware of such things you obviously know how to do this so my question is, why are you watching this?
Great video.. As a DIY'er, I've done the repacking and am totally interested in a more detailed how to video demonstrating using brake calipers to measure the hub diameter, and then adjusting the brake shoe tension from that measurement. Given they are not disc brakes, do the shoes themselves ever need replacement and how would we inspect for that? .
Also wanted to clarify at 1:25 as you stated using "white grease" because its temperature rated, though the picture of the Penzoil Brand grease actually says "red grease" on the tube. Does red vs white matter as long as its temp rated for wheel bearings?
You skipped right past removing the washer that's against the front bearing but mentioned it when putting things back together, You didn't replace the rear seal or didn't cover that, and you didn't mention how much distance should be between the pads and the drum after adjusting the brakes. Poorly done video. Learn how to do it yourself or go where you can watch it being done correctly.
Good video, but instead of focusing on the man you should focus and do a close ups on work being done. Music has a bit too much tempo, but that's not as important as close ups. :)
You took the bearing seal off way too fast I didn't see what you were doing... I've had a hard time getting that off and I have that tool it was very hard.. I don't know what you did. You just popped it off in one second. I wish you'd slow down
You most normally see the outside grease fitting (like in a bearing buddy) on a boat trailer, but they're also used on some utility trailers and even some RVs now. These should be checked (and if necessary grease added) regularly. But they still recommend you repack the bearings every 5 years. There is also the Dexter EZ Lube which works differently (it's what's in this video) and they claim that doing it this way you don't need to repack the bearings but you should still inspect them periodically (I don't know what period) for wear.
There's no set torque. Its by feel due to the bearings and races wearing differently on each spindle. If your tightening your spindle nut and torqueing it down you are going to be burning up bearings and races.
@@gearjammergamer8560 Lippert says the following "*Castle Nut Torque Procedure 1. Castle nut should be torqued to 50 ft-lbs. Hub will rotate during this process. 2. Loosen castle nut to back off the torque. 3. Tighten castle nut finger tight until snug. 4. Insert cotter pin. If cotter pin does not line up with hole, back castle nut up slightly until pin can be inserted. 5. Bend cotter pin over to lock nut in place. Nut should be free to move with only the cotter pin keeping it in place.
@@markparker4032 I do not give a flying shit about your book copy and paste. Anyone and I mean anyone whos ever in their life been experienced in wheel bearings does it by feel. Bearings wear in different. I have never and I mean ever ever ever ever seen an experienced mechanic tighten a wheel bearing with a torque wrench. It doesn't happen. Use your torque wrench I dare you. Watch your bearings burn up. Doesn't matter to me. You and your copy and paste is wrong. Ask ANY trailer mechanic.
@@gearjammergamer8560 I don't give two shits about your BS advice. Keep doing it your way. I'll keep doing it the right way. The way the manufacturer specifies. Never ever had a wheel bearing overheat by following the manufacturers specs. Engineers put specs on things for a reason. Your "feel" isn't going to be the same from day to day nor is it going to be the same person to person. So tell me how many wheel bearings you have burned up getting to know how it should feel or are you just going to say.....You had the right "feel" the first time.
Mark is Absolutely 💯% Correct 👍👍 You need to torque the nut when your bearings are initially packed. If not you can get a False sense of how tight it is from the bearings being completely full🧐
I can't agree at all with backing off the axle nut. You can't feel that the end play on the bearing is gone that way. You need to tighten the nut until you feel the.nut start to resist move ment. Backing the nut off a quarter turn is more of a guess that there is no end play. End play is an enemy of bearings!!.,!
So how many times did you refer to the DRUM instead of HUB oh and don’t worry about the 2 races they are salt we just throw them out, did I mention preload oh it will be ok .
A great video that builds long-term customer relationships, and allows others to become aware of the type of relationship building that goes on in your shop, kudos to Mike Thompson's business style. I just wanted to see the tightening instructions for my auto, now I might come in for a trailer (-:. Another comment below said you didn't clean out the old grease, it should be noted that a pressure packer pushes out the old grease at the same time the new grease is going in. The only tool you did not speak of was the pressure packer, which looked like a Lisle Part 65250, which I just looked up, it's under $9 online. It should also be noted that the pressure packer you used also fits a hand held grease gun, you don't need a shop-type grease barrel. Tha pump-type grease guns are very inexpensive, $18 for a good Lincoln brand, just looked it up. Thanks.
1994 Fleetwood Flair p30 cassis rear drum brakes. With the full floating axle, I thought the 90 weight in the differential lubricated the axle bearings because the level of oil in the differential is high enough to reach out to the axle bearings. And as I recall, the last time I put shoes on it, when I pulled the axle out there was a considerable amount t of 90 weight coming out. (I raised the side I was working on and lowered the other side).I’m asking if the rear wheel bearings need to be packed because a shop advised it. I had a new bell crank, bell crank arm, tie rod adjusting sleeve, and tie rods installed. I have a appointment to replace the ball joints, front coil springs (after having the front weighed to get the proper springs) and air bags. When I got the receipt for the first job they advised all of the wheel bearings need to be packed at a total cost of $395.00. I’ve done front brakes many times in the 21 years I’ve had the rv, so I’ll pack the front myself. I don’t want to take the rear apart just to make sure the bearings don’t need to be packed because they are being lubricated with differential oil. The truck that is being worked on in this video does not have a full floating axle. Please advise as to whether or not the rear axle bearing need to be packed. Thank you!
I notice a couple of things in your video, one you never cleaned the bearings, you used a impact tool without a impact, most of the axles on trailers today are dexter axles and they give a torque setting for the nuts. Just saying you put your safety glasses on like your going to do a professional job and you did novice job. Being that your a business should have measured the drum to see if it's out of spec.
I always look at these axle's knowing that few, if any, put in anything more than a meets minimum rated axle. Evidentially there's a play on numbers when it comes to these limits when you've got the "Tongue" of the trailer involved? The dry weight makes it where if you pack up w/ water, batteries, & other provisions you'll be close or over the max. ? Can one install "bearing buddies" onto these axles? Just thinking out loud. peace
These actually have the EZ Lube axles. That rubber center on the dust cap comes off to reveal the grease gun fitting, and to allow the old grease to come forward as you pump new grease in. If you look really close on the end of the spindle there is a grease fitting there. Some don't like them because if you over pump with grease, it can push past the rear seal and potentially contaminate the brake linings.
@@anthonyfillion3231 ~ thanks for the heads up, but what of the claim that the old grease will containment/deteriorate the brake lines? I've never heard of that & I'd surely want to clean & re-pack the bearings w/ some frequency. I've seen quite a few on side of the road jacked up but I wasn't sure what the nature of the problem was. I'm betting tires 1st then bearings? ty, I have some time before I'm buying, might be a used one at the rates I've seen for new..... peace
@@diggydice9041 You used the term 'brake lines'. Did you mean brake shoe lining? If so, yes grease (old or new) will contaminate brake linings. They can swell and there are a great deal of things that can go wrong regarding that. IF you meant brake lines, there are no brake lines on trailer brakes as they are electric not hydraulic in most cases.
@@bradmathews9801 ~ No, I've towed lots of boats/equipment & you basically know what the limits are for a trailer. I wonder how these RV companies size their axles & other trailer components ..... mostly if they're strong enough to carry the added weight you might wish to install like battery banks for solar is a big one. I see these rv trailers w/ 13-14 inch tires & it doesn't look solid? It may be fine & I've not researched these to see how much of your own weight(your added gear) one can safely add to the existing setup before it's not safe? thanks for the post
Good video, you skipped some of the detailed aspects of your process. For those who aren’t as familiar as you with each process a little more detail on brake alignment, etc would be helpful.
Your comment makes no sense 🤔 What void are you referring to? He is not using the E-Z Lube grease zerk. He is packing the bearings like you do with a conventional spindle 👍
Good video. The only question I have is this: What are the inspection criteria for the wheel bearing itself? How much discoloration is ok on the inner race, etc? Also, what type of grease is recommended, i.e., NGLI 1 OR 2; lithium based or PTFE? Thanks again for the video.
Devil_Travels depends on how old your coach is, almost all the newer models, their wheel bearings run in oil and don’t need packed. I would check with manufacturers recommendations.
Technically it is not a Camper. A Camper is a unit that is loaded into the bed of a truck. This is a CAMP Trailer. Either way they all fall under the Category of an RV-- Recreational Vehicle for DMV or DOT registration 👍
Not really. He says, several times brake adjustment is the crucial part but doesn't show us how to adjust the brake shoes. No video footage of how it's done. Then at the end of the video he says how crucial the brake adjustment is again. Not a very good instructional video.
Haha you said Grease Nipple😂🤣 Who's and or what Nipples are you referring to 🤭🤔 If you are referring to the Fitting on the Outer End of the spindle that Sir is a Grease Zerk not a NIPPLE!!😉🤝
I use to pack wheel bearings on the farm with my dad. You put a bunch of grease in your hand (clean glove) and work the grease into the bearing. It's messy and it's inefficient but it gets the job done. Did that on low speed and high speed trailers and never loss a bearing. Now dad overloading the trailer and destroying bearings ... that's another story.
You can order on Amazon, though no specialty tools are needed. If you like the idea of them, quick search a "seal puller" and "bearing packer." The small DIY bearing packer uses regular grease guns and is under $10 US. There are several different styles of seal pullers. The style he is using is a little over $22 US. If you have Harbor freight near you, these are good tools to buy there. Also at any chain Auto Parts store.
@@anthonyfillion3231 Canadian tire will 'lend' you tools. Go to the auto desk and ask if they have specific tools. lending entails you paying the new value for the tool and you return is for full value refund. I've done it a few times here in Orillia and it works. As to buying tools you can check out Princess Auto if you have one reasonably near as you do not need husky rated tools for this.
