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@@jeffsim8664this is an important piece of wisdom in general. Even with other crafts. If I’m making five picture frames do not finish one completely and then move on to number two. The odds that you get through all five while staying happy is low. You do the first step to all five frames. Then the second step to all five. That way, by the time you’re finishing the first frame, numbers two through five simply need the last step done to them. When you finish one completely you satisfy your brain and the other four become tedious. This way the reward doesn’t come until all five are basically done. I have an adage, “the first one is art, the second one is manufacturing.” Everyone wants to be an artist, nobody wants to work in a factory. This way, making multiple pieces becomes one big thing rather than one piece of art and four boring manufacturing obligations.
Closets, bathrooms, and kitchens take way more time and effort per sq. ft. than flat wall (an open room). Especially if you're doing good work. Start in the closet and it'll just get easier from there. Trust me on that.
Tip 1 - buy expensive paint. Otherwise, even 2 coats... maybe even up to 4 coats won't look like even and full coverage Tip 2 - W method is a great way to get more paint on the wall quicker, but do it wilth a pole so you're not doing 1/2 the wall. And go slow when the roller is fully loaded so you don't have splatter Tip 3 - don't cut inside corners, just jam the brush in there and get both wall surfaces together. You only need to cut where the color changes (ceilings and along trim) Tip 4 - mix flowtrol in with the paint for that final ceiling and trim cut work. It makes the paint slicker and less drag, so it's easier to cut clean lines. Tip 5 - Light sand before first coat as well as between first and second coat. Takes 5 minutes for a normal room and makes the wall hold the paint better. Sand heavier if going over semigloss or dirty walls. If they smoked or have grease from cooking on the walls, sand heavier and use primer coat. Tip 6 - work from top down, ceiling, then walls, then baseboard and trim. When cutting ceiling line, you dont have to be perfect, go a little bit onto the wall, you'll get your clean line when you cut in the wall. When cutting around baseboard and window/door trim, don't try and cut a pervect line, go onto the top of the trim a tiny bit, you'll get your perfect line when you cut in the trim. Tip 7 - get a good work light (500w halogen) so you can see ridges and wall imperfections. Tip 8 - 2" blue tapee over the edge of the carpet where it meets the baseboard. This guy is a very good painter. Any time you cant paint in your good shirt you've got my admiration! I couldn't pull iy off lol. Last tip, he does it but doesn't highlight it. Use the brush to clean out the channel of the top of the paint can to prevent mess.
@kylehardin6523 no. The dust mixes in with the next coat. Any heavy sanding should be done before first coat. Any sanding before second coat is a super light sanding
"The closet will take you almost the same amount of time as the rest of room." I would highly recommend keeping the closets white or neutral..... no matter what color the room. It will save so much hassle when the kids want a different color in three years!!!
Hello 1st timer🙂 the way he discribed painting is very detailed and honestly little to detailed,if you take about 50% of what he said your paint job will look great. Afew important tips: always have a WET RAG with you or around you just in case, as a 1st timer tape your bottom baseboard,it is hard to brush that in without experience,and brush in closer up to ceiling/wall edge because when your starting to paint it helps having x2 to make sure your edge is straight,the way he did it is good if you have experience and without exp you will need the 2times to make sure its a straight cut in edge..gd luck 👍🙂👍
@@tonytucker8651 Tuesday is the big day! I ordered some of the things that he suggested and everything was finally delivered…I’ll definitely let you see no matter the results lol
"My system works.". Yup, sure does! My brother taught me the "Jeff method"- works every time. I'm not quite as fast as Jeff but I'm frequently practicing!
This is a life skill everyone needs to learn. I've watched your previous painting series too.. nice to see an updated one (or condenses version? Lol). I've learned to cut without doing taping from you, and it's one of the best time saver!
When painting a closet, the back walls are the easiest to paint, so I paint from the door jams, to the side walls and lastly, the back walls. Also, I start on the upper sections first and do the lower areas last. 7:36
Lot of really great info in this video! I moved into a home 5 years ago and never touched a drop of paint to any of the walls, looking to re-paint the entire house and this video was just the ticket!
First of all, thank you so much for sharing your years of experience with those who need these tips. Since I've been watching your videos, I have learned a lot, especially as someone moving into a house that needs a bit of DIY. Your channel was a treasure to find, and the links you share are incredibly helpful. Thanks again!
I've never seen those shakers before. I use a stir attachment for my cordless drill. Seems to do the job. I used it on some fairly cheap white paint that we'd had in the garage for about 18 months. It had separated to f but the stir attachment brought it back to life and we were able to use it on the ceiling. Personal preference but I would highly recommend a drill attachment for stirring, just be slow and steady and don't go crazy with it!
Best thing I ever found as an armature painter was the full frame roller. No more flipping the roller over, just twist the pole in your hands to change the pressure
@@preacherman9018He’s talking about the roller covers that attach to the roller cage on the outside of both ends of the tube (think holding a chap stick on both ends with your thumb on one end and your pointer finger on the other) instead of sliding on to one end and being supported from the inside (like the one Jeff is using) . like a traditional roller cage. These usually use 18 inch roller covers, and require a different pan, liners, and obviously covers (all more expensive than their 12inch cousins) as well as an entirely new set of skills. Mostly used by professionals, they have their place. But a newbie should probably avoid them in favor of buying a better 12inch cage. But the advantage is that you apply even pressure by default, leading to fewer drips and doesn’t require evening out the lap marks.
@@Nhfilz Thanks a lot for the clear explanation. I wasn't able to find those at my local big box lumber stores. I have to paint my whole house inside and out this month. The outside is aluminum siding. I doubt if that matters since they look like 6" or so. I'll just use what you recommend and Jeff is using.
@@preacherman9018 If you are painting an entire house, inside and out, head over to the closest sherwin williams and talk to one of the employees about setting up a cash account. You will get a 40% discount on all your paint and a 15% discount on any brushes, rollers, tape etc. Plus they can help you with any questions you have along the way.
I’m painting my garage tomorrow, I love this channel and this video. I honestly have confidence as I have watched this video three times. Great job teaching us, I appreciate you.
Just painted my son’s room today! I used an 18 inch roller. Used a full gallon of sherwin Williams paint and could have used an extra half gallon. Didn’t realize how poor coverage was for what they wanted $60 per gallon for.
Painting used to be such a frustrating job for me. I always Made hugr a mess and it got me angry. Thanks to you I got much better at it. I managed to paint whole deck and it looks actually pretty good. White ceillings, and near Windows, coulours on walls. Sharp edges.. Thank you for all the tips I collected on this channel. And I actually changed oppinion on painting and Made it enjoyable for myself. Which I like the most. Such a great skill to have if you live in huge house
Very impressed with the shaking. Those cans aren’t light and you did an amazing job. I’ve done so much painting but I’m not good at it. This is such a help!! I can see one mistake I make is I hurry
Hi Jeff! PeggyO here; you are the Martha Stewart of Home Renovations! Plus you have a great sense of humor mixed with being such a GREAT teacher. Thank you!!!
I watch a lot of your videos and like your input. I started my own painting business, and have tried several rollers. I have to say that I notice a huge difference in quality of texture finish from cheep rollers to expensive rollers. Maybe it is my technique, but I prefer 10mm rollers that cost about $9/each ($27 for a bag of 3). I don't quite get the same coverage per roll as the ones those 10 packs from Home Depot, but I prefer the way it comes off the roller and how smooth it is to roll. On an 8 foot wall, I get about 2 roller widths worth with the $9 roller. With the $3 rollers I can get 3-4 roller widths on an 8 foot wall. I also prefer to do trim first, as for me it is easier to cut the walls than that thin top piece of trim. I will almost always put new painters caulk along the trim as well. Great tips and information as usual. Thank you for all of the videos!
Awesome tutorial. I have a significant home decorating project lined up for the fall which I’ve been dreading. Thanks to your enthusiasm, talent and clear demonstration I’m really looking forward to getting started. Inspiring! Thank you.
Thanks for all of your amazing videos, Jeff! I was actually about to paint my bathroom this weekend but got too busy, and now I'm glad I had to wait! It was great to even learn about the mistakes I made on my first time around.
Jeff you gotta try the microfiber "Corner Plus" roller. Instead of having a hole on both sides of the roller cover, one of them is covered up, so you can skip all the cut ins on your ceiling and all your corner cut ins, since it paints the wall next to the one you're rolling
Saw your earlier videos about this and your full series and I really appreciate you continuing to teach! I've been using your tips and my enjoyment of my house has really improved.
I was a residential painter for many years and I don't think people can appreciate all the tips that were dropped here. There were very key things that were pointed out that aren't really taught because they are developed by lots of experience.
We gad a painting project when redoing our kitchen. For me, the oainting part of the process is the reward for doing all the prep work. I used tape for the primary colour as i did not trust my ability to hold the brush straight enough. Hubs wanted to help me and didn't use tape. Guess who ended up taking a while day covering up wrong coloured paint on ceiling and walls? Yep, that would be me. When doing the trim, i started in a place that i knew wouldn't show as much, so i could get my technique. I see from your video, i got some things right, and dome i need to work on. Thanks.
love the videos Jeff. I learned a lot from them. Managed to do the whole house. Only times I couldn't use the pole were narrow hallway and narrow toilet. Ended up using only the roller frame.
You are amazing at painting, I have saved your video and hopefully will do a job well. I did not know about the sanding so I will give that a try. Thanks again for all your home improvement videos!
Love your videos and trust your product recommendations. I always try to buy via links as I know it's not much but it's something to do to pay back for all I get from your teaching! FYI this probably a moving target but the 12 ft extension pole and Simms tray arm are not available via the link so will check back. They are a luxury for me but it might make me want to paint more if not constantly bending over and losing paint over the side! Thanks again from Dallas, Texas.
Anyone can paint a room fast, the only question is how does it look in all the places where two different colors meet (ceiling vs wall and wall vs trim). If you have high standards and want perfectly straight lines and no hint of paint on the ceiling it will take longer unless you have a lot of experience. I can usually tell when a room has been painted by a diy weekend painter because they rush through it because they want it all done by Sunday night.
Hi Jeff, My method is a little different tell me what you think? I paint the ceiling first overlap to the walls. Then paint the woodwork again overlap to the walls. Then paint the walls and cut in to the ceiling and woodwork.
Great tips to help us out as I always struggle with cutting with my brush. One thing I do now is keep the closet walls white, I use the same paint as my trim for that. I hate painting my closets, mine are very small a difficult to work in. The trim paint is easy to wash if needed. I like to change the color of my rooms often. Not repainting inside closets keeps me motivated 😆
My son and I used to paint rental and Housing Commission properties here in Aus. We would spray the ceilings and wardrobes, then undercoat and enamel all woodwork after removing the doors, and then double-coat the walls with a heavy pile 18-inch lambswool roller. Obviously, this is unrelated to what a beginner would do in his own place; it would be a recipe for disaster. But the point I wanted to make is that I always found it easier, better, and quicker to cut in the walls last against the finished woodwork rather than doing the woodwork last and cutting them in against the walls. Just my two cents worth guys. Don't go out and buy a five thousand-dollar Graco 395 unless you're doing a house a week or so. :) God bless and cheers from Aus.
Good from far but far from good (I suppose it depends on how fussy you are) ...the cut lines against the baseboards and the ceiling are wavy - easily seen on camera. If you want laser straight lines painters tape with caulking works flawlessly and produces a better result (albeit with a little more prep work).
I don't think so. Look closely at the finish coat in the closet. I see some pretty wavy lines. Same is true along the baseboards. Also, no free hand cut in will be straighter than one that is done with tape. It’s not close. Tape and caulk take more time but will always yield a better result.
Man that one guy on youtube would have rolled that whole house with one dip in the paint and everyone would have been talking about how he has so much skill and wish he xould do their house. Why cant tou donit like him .... oh wait, youre doing it right.
Jeff,maybe don’t talk about “the power of the pole” in future videos… Great video, informative and entertaining as usual. I would have liked to have seen this one be longer, with more time spent on prep work, paint selection, and common issues someone is likely to run into. For example, It is very common here in the USA, specifically in the northwest region for our walls to have an orange peel or knockdown texture. This presents numerous issues, from cutting in, to sanding, and even which roller cover you should purchase. Would love to see a more inclusive video in the future with fully textured walls.
Removing the dust is a good step. I'm going to have to clear cobwebs off of my front door when I go to clear it, but only on the outside. The family of spiders on the inside can stay. They are eating other bugs. Only painting the outside. Ooh, Eiger blue. I like that color. It's very pretty. I wish I had the dexterity to paint that straight and smooth. Arthritis in hands/wrists doesn't help, but I do still like painting. I prefer using mini rollers because they are easier for me to control than larger rollers. Partially because of arthritis but also because I'm not very coordinated. The W technique never worked all that well for me. Glad I watched some of your videos on painting to get better technique tips. Hmmm. I didn't know about the paint dust thing. I always cleaned the dust off. I can't even put tape on straight, but I still use it bc I always slip when using a paintbrush. Especially when down low near the floor or up high where I stretch to reach.
We had great success with one of those Paint Sticks, which let you suck a lot of paint into the two-part handle, and then slowly press the handle together while rolling, to keep the roller loaded but not overloaded. My wife did nearly all the cutting in, with a brush and/or the mini version of the Paint Stick, which had little pads for edges and corners, and I'd follow with the big one. We also found that, with new wallboard, those "paint and primer in one" products are just a very expensive and frustrating way to waste time. We tried telling a contractor that, but he insisted he'd done it with great success in the past, only to then have to put three or four coats of that expensive paint on. Instead, we used a primer/sealer first. That's much cheaper, and seals the wallboard so the expensive paint sits on the outside instead of just soaking right in. The only real downside of the Paint Stick was cleanup. If we were painting a smaller surface, it simply wasn't worth it to use that, so we used traditional rollers and brushes instead. But for a whole room, it's a great time saver, and produced excellent results.
Jeff, my 13yo son wants to paint his room. It's his first DYI project and I had him watch this video twice to learn the techniques. The catch is he wants to use the same color you did but the C2 Paint site has a million different tones of blue. Which one did you use? Help me get a young fellow started in what I hope to be years of father-son projects.
QQ: if I am replacing the trim, I assume it is good to paint the trim prior to install. My poor old knees would bark painting the baseboard after install.
