I run a small shop myself and there is nothing wrong with this at all. Realizing this was likely a tight budget type repair. People would walk right by this car and not realize any work had been done. Well done Jimmo!!
I say, this is, with all honesty, the absolute best tutorial for painting a car panel! To the point, thoroughly instructed, and with spectacular results!
After watching this video I've come to the conclusion that I won' t be able to do a paint job anywhere near as well as you. I don't have the paint booth, equipment, patience or skill. Especially skill! lol I'm in Thunder Bay and you're in Oshawa. Can you come up here and do it for me? lol :)
Thank you.I had a really deep scratch down into the plastic on my wife's RAV4. I've no experience of working on bodywork. I followed your tutorial to the letter. I'm delighted with the result. You saved me a lot of money, and I'm surprised to say, I really enjoyed the process. Thank you again. Stuart York
Dont worry about negative comments, you'll have people who spend alot of time critizing your work...and only have knowledge of criticism. Great Video. Good for people on a budget.
this is selling paint. I don't know about this brand, but I've used duplicolor whatever and the base and clear are near impossible to get a good lay down, it runs, spatters, fry's and all sorts of defects. And basically you'll spend the amount in paint can's to do-over and over by the time you learn a method that works with the crap can's that you could of went out and bought a decent airgun and did it that way. I mean the base coat and clear spray out like a spray bottle, not a mist. You try and get a good matching coat with a spray bottle, type spray.
@@marshalcraft I've used the spray max 2 part spray cans and they atomizer way better than regular spray cans. Most people want to know what products are used in diy videos. If you attempt to do a repair like this with regular cheap spray cans, you will have a hell of a time matching his results.
I am not a painter by any means, but this video has helped me time and again achieve professional-like results on my small repairs. I’ve been referencing back to this video for about a year now. Thank you so much for sharing!
Wow that spray can attachment really did make the difference in can and spray control. I never knew they were so effective and next time I'm painting my car I'll be sure to pick one up :)
Sounds good, will it last just as long as regular auto paint? I'm also worried it will ir have different tints which seems to happen even when the colors are supposed to be the same which is why pro painters mix all the cans of paint into one big batch.
@@marcushennings9513 Bro he explained it in the video. Pro painters still blend paint because paint matched is never 100% the same, it will be a shade off. So you just blend it on the within the pannel. As for as long as auto paint he is using 2K products so it should last more than normal cans.
I found this an excellent instructional video, the fact that it is a metallic paint is even more interesting, the age of the car is a deciding factor as was mentioned about matching panels as some fading depending on age is almost unavoidable. This one came out so good, thanks for sharing this with your spray gun fans!
Lots of comments about the extent of repair done for such a scratch. The point is that this is the CORRECT way to have an entirely like new surface. This is how insurance companies expect a scratch to be dealt with, vs just sanding and polishing a scratch area, or bs'ing with touch up that will always be noticeable and detract from the value of a vehicle.
Couldn't agree more. Iv'e had a car that was in an accident with deep scratches and all they did was sand and polish so it'd look good temporarily as I picked it up. After a week or so it looked like the work had never been done. This is the proper way to repair.
Took me several hours to get the "diy". Then in a fragment. But diy-ing isn't for everybody. However, time cannot be compared to any THING. Whereas money is the medium of ALL transactions.
The wife painted our Mazda B2200 using nothing but spray balm, in the driveway about 18 years ago. The little truck used more than 10 cans of Auto spray balm, was mono chromatic blue and looked so SWEET that within 3 months 5 other little trucks showed up in our little town with the same paint job. Wife was both impressed and disappointed. Impressed that her work was loved enough others copied it and disappointed that her work was loved enough that others copied it. It wasn't unique anymore.
Just finished my car body work with two of these Spraymax cans. I painted 2 quarter panels and 1 bumper cover + a lot of other bits (rocker panels, mirror back face) with 2 cans and 3 coats. Went further than I thought. You have to apply them wet to get the gloss - but not too close. It's pretty forgiving.
Well I think it's a damn good job! Great instructions and the colour variation that some others have mentioned seems to me to be just light reflection/shadows. Greetings from Australia.
Almost 10 years in the body shop industry... This is awesome. I am starting these types of repairs with a buddy as well, and this is exactly what we wanna do.
I have bought an old E36 BMW as a project car, it is Artic Silver . It had quite a few dings and scratches but no rust. I have used Aerosols to do the job and have found these new paints ( base coat and clear ) are amazing ,I am very pleased with the results.
I have a whole 2001 white Chevy Malibu LS roof to do, so this is very informative and to the point. I have put it off, paint peels off (prob from sitting in the sun, second car, we don't use much but want to keep) and it peels down 'to the core.' Big job? Never did anything like it before. Was supposed to do over the summer, too chicken!
Excellent job man!! What people do not realize is that once you have to paint a panel, it has to be the whole thing. Just touch it up looks horrible. I rather stay with the scratch cuz the scratch does not stand out as much as a touch up. I am going to paint my whole car this way!
Did this on our Jeep Wrangler’s fender flare as it had gotten pretty dinged up (3 deep scratches) used some glazing putty, then the rest of the instructions here and it turned out looking exactly like it did from the factory. Thanks for the best video out here, from a fellow Ontarian.
Nice video, got some similar bits to do on my car this week. All my paints have finally arrived and just waiting for one of those spray handles. Cheers.
I came to this video because I wanted to see how well this 2k aerosol clear performs compared to having to mix up clear and use a spray gun. I'm a spray painter by trade and I was astounded at the sheer stupidity of a small amount of the comments about this video regarding the amount of work that went into one small scratch. That IS how a scratch is meant to be repaired and re painted the proper way and would be repaired that way in any decent smash repair shop (usually minus the aerosol can clear coat), and that''s where the costing of the entire repair job comes from. there are multiple procedures and products used to properly repair even small scratches. Anybody who thinks the poster of the video went to extremes or thinks smash repair jobs are ripping people off by painting panels when a repair on a small scratch should only take a few minutes .....is a fucking idiot. Good video mate!
Raef, my experience with the 2k aerosol clear (Glamour Gloss)? It shined and looked better than a new car fresh off the lot! It went on so nice, great nozzle on the can, it looked wet when it dried and I didn't even have to wet sand and buff! Now, here's the bad part..... I don't know if it's because I sprayed it on top of Duplicolor brand base color or what. It lasted over a year on my mirrors and door handles so, when I had to do a front fender and front bumper later on, I used it again. This time, I also used it over Duplicolor brand. It wasn't even 3 months later and the clear started to peel!! a couple weeks later, my mirrors started to peel (Say a year and a half total) and door handles look like they may start now. I'm looking for answers as I plan to redo the fender and bumper in the coming week. The paint shop told me it was how I prepared it but, I'm not buying that! I was very OCD in the process and don't think it would have lasted as long as it did if it was in my prep. I bought and going to try the duplicolor clear for engines to see if it is better than the regular duplicolor clear. The one for engines has ceramic in it. I'm saving a lot of money doing it myself but, at $25 a can for the 2K, it should last and not ever peel like it did!
+Jason Mitchell there are many factors that can affect the finished product or its longevity. Clear coat Delaminating from base coat can be be a result of two products not being compatible (it's doesn't happen often, but it does happen)...for example using duplicolour and a different brand of clear. Furthermore a flash off time that is too great between base and clear can also cause clear to peel, as can clearing over base that has been sprayed on too dry. The last reason and probably the most likely is that those clears in aerosol cans aren't going to be the same quality as a clear that's mixed up and used in a normal smash repair environment. They generally don't have the same hold up to UV and the elements and could have played a part in the delamination . Hope that helped a bit
Raef Noble, are you saying that if you let the base coats dry (then perhaps wet-sand , or if the spray is uniform enough no sanding is warranted), then apply the clear to the dried base, this can "cause clear to peel"? Second question is what is a base that has been sprayed on too dry? Does that mean the gun or can is held too far from the work piece, or does it mean that not enough paint is being applied per coat, or perhaps both? I will look around for a video(s) on painting one-oh-one to try to learn how before I undertake my bumper cover. Thanks for any replies
Jason Mitchell 2k cans don't last more than a few days...that's the point. The hardener makes the clear good, but means the remainder of clear in the can is no good after at max a few days.
The people who think it's overkill or a ripoff are the people who ram other people's cars or swing their doors open like their car's on fire. A car's paint has to deal with rain, salt, scorching heat, freezing cold, UV and infrared radiation from the sun, all sorts of organics (tree sap, bird poop, bug guts), flex and deformation of the substrate (sheet metal or plastic) while being impermeable and protective at while being insanely thin, look good and last for 10+ years. Is it any wonder why it's so costly? Yeah sure, you can buy some rustoleum and clear coat from Home Depot and it'll do the job of keeping your panel from rusting (for a while), but then why ever spend $30k on a new car anyway? Just fork over $2000 - $3000 for a mechanically sound, weathered/banged up Toyota and it'll do the job of getting you to places comfortably and economically.
My kid and I are painting his car. It's been a learning experience. Dark grey hammered roof, hood and hatchback. Navy blue color. Rust-Oleum clear...3 coats.
I followed this video and repaired and spray painted the fender, had a very good result. I would recommend you believe in yourself and go for it. Just remember to take your time and wear a mask.
Watched your video fixing a scratch and clear coating on Chrysler 200 many times in the last 2 week's.So today did the left rear quarter on my 65 barracuda,came out great thanks.
The techniques shown here are correct, however, I don't agree with doing this for a single scratch. No matter how you finish the panel, it will never be factory and I'd rather live with a touched up scratch than a reworked panel.
Well with my car most of the paint is intact, it just needs the clearcoat, but I would probably repaint it anyways since some of the paint would have worn down from at least UV raise
good video. i have a friend who proved to me you can get the same job from a can as you can a gun. hes been teaching me. im blown away what you can do in a garage with a few cans and some wet sanding.
you can tell that it's not original paint by the difference in reflection, that part you painted definitely sticks out in sunlight. Covering up the original scratch with a micro brush would have looked much better in the long run.
No....... If you Got a steady hand you Can use a 0,3 airbrush to top up the scratches then sand the overlayer away with 14-1500 sandpaper with plenty of water and then finish of with some 2k top coat and polish☺️✌🏼️
Simply Brilliant! You have cut all the BS from the "pros" and make things much easier for the rest of us that are just looking to make our bitted up cars and trucks looks better
How expensive are those 2K aerosol cans? Since you activated the primer can, doesn't that mean you wasted the entire remainder of the can? Thanks, great video.
@@ChadMutt good idea. Since it's not water based I'm going to stick it in the freezer. Probably won't explode. Otherwise it's a bit of a wast for a 25$ bottle since I'm only using a bit ever now and then
Awesome job, that looked great when you were done. Question, if I may. My hood is oxidized pretty good, it looks bad, the rest of the car is fine for 20 years old. I've been using 1500 grit wet sandpaper and it's looking better. The car cost me $2500 and it will be going off-road, so spending a ton to fix it isn't what I want to do. Just make it look a tad nicer. would it be better for me to keep trying to get the oxidation off, or just respray the entire hood and clear it? Thanks in advance to any and all who reply.
Eric Bauer hey did you end up sanding the oxidisation? I'm in the same situation with my r33 and not sure if i should respray it or try remove the oxidisation (or fade if it is)
...thanks for the tips, it really helped out on my car BIG time...I'm a noob at this auto body tech, but I think I'm doing well. I wish I can show my progress right now. Thanks for the info.
Thats a fantastic job from a rattle can, something worth mentioning when spraying with rattle cans is when they get low they can spatter a bit so be careful when they start to empty out.
You may NEVER wet sand on primer, autopainting 1 o 1. Reason is that if you go through the primer you the metal or bondo works like a sponge and sucks all of the moisture in and the metal will then rust and bondo crack
Uhm that was a pretty childish thing to say. But do what you want to. Worked as a car painter for a good few years in Denmark and i know how to prep and spray a car proberly. But again do what you wanna do.
Kim is correct, I don't see why you have an issue with what was said. Wet sanding primer has no real place anyway, it's the base and clear that need to be smoothed that much. If it's a small patch that you want to blend in - as per this video - dry sanding is fine, it doesn't use up that much paper. From experience I know all too well that the primer lets water through, and then keeps it there rusting away and you don't see it for a few months. Sucks. Just got rid of a bunch of work today because of it.
You actually can't. The spray pattern nozzle with most paint cans does not allow this. Notice his spray can nozzle is in fan shape. Which is exactly the same as professional spray gun nozzle. The trick is the nozzle. If you have that nozzle, you can get professional results easier than regular spray jet patterns.
HORNET6 Look at his spray pattern. Its a special nozzle. Very likely one that is used by graffiti artists. You can't buy those kind of pattered nozzle spray can off your regular hardware store. You can spray your car with a spray can that looks professional. But it takes considerable skills to do it. And that special nozzle for even coverage.
In fairness he did say that the trigger nozzle attachment was about 10 bucks and freely available. The guy is giving all the tips he can so we can all turn out a good job, yet everyone seems to want to bitch and moan at him. This vid helped me no end.
Make sure that you don't use Dupli-Color clear coat spray can they are crap. Even if you manage to make a good finish (after lots and lots of wet-sanding) once the birds come and shit on your car those shit will burn right through that clear if it's not thick enough.
Great video regardless of the topic. Great in that the info is clear and without BS, just about the job. I know how to do a hack job and have touched up many of my cars in the past. They looked great at a distance of 20-40 feet. I don’t know how to do a good job so the video was very informative. I’m about to touchup my car and will follow the steps in the video as they make sense and not a lot of extra time compared to my prior hack jobs. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks for sacrificing your car to show us how to paint with aerosol. Im working on my Truck , rear fender flare totally rusted out so am using fiber glass to repair and rebuild.
Masha'allah, excellence in what you do, you are definitely a believer, i have learned a lot from you, and now am going to dive in your other videos to learn and become like you, excellent job.
Hey, how are you? I’m doing rain guards, and a spoiler kit, that all came black in color. I scuffed everything up with a maroon scuff pad, cleaned with an IPA wipe down, then added adhesion promoter, before I used 2k primer. I just ordered that trigger handle for better control, and a finger that doesn’t feel like it wants to fall off? LOL next is ground coat, then Midcoat, then I’m using the 2K bladder clear on everything. Can’t wait to see the results? It’s my first time doing this, and yes, I got the exact paint code, put into spray cans. Wish me luck 👍 so far, so good!
In our area, we have harbor freight so we can buy an automotive spray gun for $25 and local automotive paint for $50 for a quart. Total for all paint, clear, activator, sandpaper is around $125 to paint a car.
well this video inspired me to do my eng bay before the new eng is going in and I'm using the same products . sorry no doing videos but taking lots of picks love ur videos
Thank you for such a great video. Yesterday, I did the same thing with my Honda Accord. I was delighted with the results I achieved with the color-based spray, but I went and used the same clear coat you used in your video. I got cloudy, - dull results, and I don't know why or how to fix it and avoid it happening again.
I am a pro detailer. When I come across scratches like these I tell the owner to go to a bodyshop. With this video I am thinking I should add paint services to my menu. Questions: How long does this whole process take? Would doing this outside as opposed to a contolled environment like a spray boot create a lot of issues?
My 2002 V6 Camry had completely lifted clear coat on top and I wanted to fix the car cheap. Have done "real" auto painting once or twice with the proper spray gun etc. so I believed I could probably do as well as the spray can videos show here on YT (HA!) Here's what I'd tell myself before I started if I'd known: 1. The money you save from spray cans vs. renting or even buying a proper compressor (>20 gallon tank, paint gun, hose, clear coat and paint - on ebay they even sell factory colors pre-mixed just shake and spray, they are $100 - 200 a gallon) will not turn out to be as much money as you might think it should be! So I now think for painting anything larger than one door or fender you ought to spend the money for the proper tools and supplies! Because spray cans are incredibly limiting and you will probably not be happy with the results. 2. I was having lots of trouble trying to clear coat to achieve the glossy finish it was supposed to have. Until I saw one post from a fellow named Brad Angrove: "ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TfNq8DEbT60.html" who explained one of the best ways to apply rattle can clear coat. First, you need to use the expensive kind of rattle can clear "Clear glamor", its full name "USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear" from 2k paints. It is $20 a can but worth it since it is as close to real clear coat as you are going to get out of a spray can. The can is a mix of hardener and clear coat that is sealed until you want to use it. Then you use the red button that comes with it, to press on to a valve on the bottom of the can right before you paint. Then you press HARD on that button to break the "bladder" of hardener inside the can so the clear coat can mix with it. Now you shake it up so long it feels like your arm will fall off you are ready to apply it over your base coat. But the main thing he did was he used TWO CANS AT ONCE to spray the clear coat at the same time! I'd tried a couple brands of clear coat but no matter what I used, I had very poor results, i.e. small glossy patches of clear coat with the rest of the surface without gloss. BUT according to the video, you need to use two cans at once just to get the right amount of clear coat coverage. At first I seriously thought he was joking about spraying w two cans at once, but from watching the rest of the video realized he was NOT joking. To do it you hold the spray cans together (I taped two cans together with masking tape) start your sweep, and push down the nozzle on both cans at once. Doing this makes a bigger fan pattern and also provides the right volume of clear - two cans together provides more paint coverage than one can alone can put down. So after starting over once or twice, I did it his way, and I noticed instant improvement. Spray w the cans around 6" away (stretch out your hand, now stretch your fingers apart, and that is approximately the correct distance from the surface, i.e. distance between thumb tip and pinky). I used about 80% overlap for each pass, which might seem too heavy especially using two cans at once, but it turned out to be just right, you would not want to overlap any less than this. And I made a point to make my passes only for sections less than two feet long; then drop down below that to make the next pass underneath that one. When I tried to lay down the clear coat using one long stroke edge to edge, I realized later, making long passes took too much time and let the paint start to flash off too soon, and even with 80% overlap the clear coat could not "melt" into the previous pass and this was what was causing the "tiger stripes" in the finish! So now after hundreds of dollars spent on sandpaper, primer, base paint, clear coat, more clear coat after that, masking paper and tape, plus polish etc. I will never try doing that ever again! I will spend $300 for at least a 25 gallon compressor plus a spray gun and gallon of paint - and never again will I try using rattle cans for painting anything larger than a trunk lid!
Instead of painting the whole panel, I would probably have put some base colour on with a "touch up" and then some clear coat and then I would have sanded the area. That would have removed the scratch totally. But I guess the point of this video is to show how it´s done when you paint an entire panel and in that perspective the video is very useful, and it shows that you can actually get a good result with aerosol spray cans.
ive done it to a couple cars within the past year. no videos on em however but basically the most recent 1 i painted is my lil porject car, took 27 cans of the color i used and 30 cans of the primer. have yet 2 add the clear however . walmart dollar paint got it on lock, the only real money spent was on sandpaper and clear coat.
I would have covered the wheel and tire first, and masked the adjacent fender. But otherwise this is a right job; I learned some about the newer paint. Thanks for helping people to learn to do everything they can themselves.
This was a excellent video looked great, only thing is I don't believe it would be that expensive for whole vehicle just a lot of time and prep work its not something you can rush through, but if one could do it this way would be much cheaper than a shop. Its really not that hard. I have done this before myself with scratches and if done right you can't really tell at all. Thanks you, I enjoy watching and learning new tips.
I've found that putting the can in a few inches of warm (not hot!) water for a minutes or so before each time you spray helps with atomization & splatter. Just be sure that you thoroughly dry the can before you spray. Water drops will ruin your day.
body shop i had worked with in the past wanted 5k to redo the roof and pillars of my truck due to clear coat failure (expected at age of vehicle). they also said they cant work around windshield trim so that had to come out too... I did it all myself and got it under said windshield trim. i can see why they wouldnt do it this way tho. however, 5000$ vs 150$ for a bunch of cans yeah.. no contest. Roof and the the pillars ate 4 cans of 2k clear (ouch). the rest went into masking supplies and actual paint. labor was around 4 hours over 2 days with 90% of it spent sanding the existing clear/base layer down to a paintable surface.
