How to Paint MDF Like A Pro! (#10) Looks like a spray finish but done with a roller! 

Thanks for your lovely comment. It's much appreciated.

Thank you so much for your wonderful comment. I'm pleased you enjoyed it, and I hope you've subscribed! 😀

Thank you very much.

I guess that might work well, I've never tried shellac, but as you can see from my video there is really no need for extra steps. Water based acrylic paint goes on really well.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK With decent quality MDF that is normally true but the cheap stuff from places like Wicks or B&Q is a nightmare to paint without sealing it first. After applying shellac you can get a paint finish like glass so even with decent MDF it still makes a difference. It especially makes a difference on cut edges when applied before final sanding. It makes even the cheapest MDF take paint like the green moisture resistant stuff.

@schrodingerscat1863 Thanks, that's good to know. I've another MDF project this year, so I'll try this.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Ok, good luck with the project. I was skeptical about shellac myself at first but it was a game changer for me. Only thing I would say is make sure you get actual shellac not something in a can just called shellac. It should be either ethanol or methanol based.

@@schrodingerscat1863 many thanks.

Wow, that's really kind of you. I'm trying to finish editing a video on how to hang flat screen televisions but I've not been well and had other distractions! It's coming soon!

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Brilliant idea, looking forward to it. Hope you're feeling better champ 💪🏽

Hi Joe, that's very kind, thank you. I wish I could publish far more often but editing is very time consuming. I've four projects recorded and awaiting editing!

@@JohnTheHandymanUK looking forward to seeing them 😄

Hi Chris and thank you for commenting. The one thing I didn't mention in the video is what grade of sandpaper to use. I think I used some slightly worn 180 grit paper. Be careful to keep it flat and not apply too much pressure particularly to the edges.

Thanks for watching and pleased you enjoyed it.

You are welcome. Pleased you enjoyed it.

Thanks for your comment it's very kind of you. Much appreciated. 😃

I'm so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your desk.

Thank you. 😃

Thank you Matthew, I'm pleased you enjoyed it.

Thanks, I'm pleased you like it.

I'm pleased you enjoyed the video. Thanks.

I hope it goes well.

I hope the painting goes well.

Thank you.

Thank you, Cecilia, that is very kind of you, and I'm pleased you love my videos.

Please subscribe, it's free, I'm trying to get to 2000 subscribers by the 1st May.

I'm pleased you enjoyed it.

I've got some to do, for the first time, so will mirror your approach.

@@jimestall good luck with it.

An interesting idea, and I can see this working, but surely the damp filler raises the "grain" of the edges more than just applying a primer/ undercoat. You may be making more work for yourself to get a similar finish.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK tbh I only finish rounded edges like that, forgot to say I PVA after the light sand and then another light sand. One regular square or slightly rounded edges I use paintable Matt iron on edging tape, that saves all the issues getting a good edge.

​@@JohnTheHandymanUK In order to seal the edges, I brush on regular Elmer's Glue (water thinned) on MDF before painting. Once dried, sand with either 220 or 240 grit sandpaper. This both tightens the edges, and stops that "fuzz" they get from sucking up paint.

Lovely

@JohnTheHandyManUK I use this technique too, on the edge I'll sand with 80, then a 200 and finish with a 2000, it takes a few minutes to get an almost polished edge and no burring after painting, I like to run the roller in the same direction across the whole piece after each coat. Now for the mind blowing part, if you're willing to put 4-5 coats of acrylic top coat you can get that factory finish with this trick, liberally sprinkle washing up liquid over the top, then with a piece of wet and dry around a wood block work this into the surface in a light circular motion, once it starts to turn white you're polishing the surface, finish the whole piece and then clean the suffice with damp kitchen towel until clean, if you're been a bit to aggressive a light coat will give you a really fine finish

Thank you.

Thanks for your kind comment. Maybe I'll do a video on various different paints one day. Good idea.

Thank you.

Thank you so much. I appreciate your comment. 😀

I'm pleased you enjoyed it.

Thank you. It was fun to edit.

Thanks Steve for your kind message and I'm pleased you've found my channel. I hope you've subscribed as it helps the channel! I don't have the best if hearing either so it's good to know you can hear me clearly. Subtitles are accurate too. I always watch with them on. Computer and tech stuff isn't really my forte, sorry.

As long as it's wrapped well enough to exclude air, then any plastic will do. I've used plastic bags too.

I've been painting my doors using small foam roller and satin oil based gloss. Used the cling film trick during the day but also stuck it in the freezer for a week.... thaw.... and good as new!

I'm very pleased that you like it.

Hi Keith, I've always thought that a pile roller is best for water based paints, like emulsion paint, so that's why I used it. Interestingly someone suggested trying a grey foam roller with concave ends! I bought some and tried them but didn't find any real difference. no better or worse. I'd definitely use a foam roller for spirit based paints though.

I've not had the chance to buy the moisture resistant (green) MDF but hopefully I can try it one day. Thanks for commenting.

Thank you Martin. I don't thin the primer though you could a little. I don't overload the roller, just work it a little on the tray. I've found that the roller can sometimes skid if it doesn't rotate freely on the frame. This is often a build up of dry paint that needs scraping off.

Thanks for your kind comment. I use this wood filler, available from Amazon and Toolstation in the UK. Ronseal makes a very similar product, although in smaller pots and more expensive. This cheap one works and like all of them, don't apply it too wet, and it should be higher than the hole or scratch you are filling as it tends to shrink once dry. Rub down very gently with 180grit sandpaper. You might need finer, say 200 grit, but the paper clogs quickly turning 180 into 200 anyway! Just wrap the sandpaper around a straight piece of wood first and be gentle. Don't rub too much off. Easily done! Good luck with it.

www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-purpose-premium-joiners-filler/dp/B0046LZI88/ref=asc_df_B0046LZI88/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=214529255954&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9385720319937885881&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007038&hvtargid=pla-422334777991&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

@@JohnTheHandymanUK thanks for taking the time to reply! 🙏

@@killingtime8612 You are welcome 😊

We don't have Kilz in the UK, and I've no idea what latex paint is similar to in the UK. Good, you've a product that works for you. Personally I'd stick with water based paints as cleaning up is much quicker and easier. Drying time might be quicker too. Spraying will, of course give a nicer finish, but I wanted to show how to get a finish by hand that's almost as good. Cheers.

Most people at home don't have access to a spray gun, nor a sander necessarily. That's the whole _point_ of this video - it's perfect for the ordinary person on a budget who doesn't have the things you do. Rather odd comment that's All About You somehow...

@@221b-Maker-Street Thanks you for your kind words. Who made the comment "All About You somehow..."

@@JohnTheHandymanUK We call latex paint emulsion here in the UK.

That's a great idea. What make of acrylic varnish/lacquer did you use?

@@JohnTheHandymanUK I think my reply might have been zapped due to including a URL. It was bought from Screwfix but they no longer stock it. My memory suggests the company was in SE England - London/Essex/Kent. But I could be totally wrong. Was in a half-gallon plastic container. However, remainders have been decanted into anonymous jars so cannot refer. A company called Finneys do something that appears similar and they offer a small sample (charged).

Thank you. I think that I used 180 grit sandpaper, but it was quite well worn. With a new piece I'd start with 220 grit.

I agree about the sandpaper. I forgot to mention which grit I used.

Hello Jamal, I am well, thank you. What kinds of things do you paint?

I work in wood dyeing and wood painting in Morocco, and I have pictures and videos. If you have WhatsApp, send me your phone number so I can show you these videos and pictures.

Hi Jim and thanks for commenting. I would think that an oil based eggshell, as opposed to water based, would be very hard wearing. Leyland used to make an oil based eggshell but I'm not sure that they still do. I came across this article that's interesting so I think I'd try Little Green's Interior Oil Eggshell or maybe their Intelligent Floor Paint that is water based. traditionalpainter.com/oil-based-v-acrylic-eggshell#:~:text=Most%20paint%20companies%20have%20oil,two%2C%20which%20brands%20are%20best%3F. These maybe expensive, what isn't these days, so the regular water based eggshell that I used might be good enough for a childs' desk.

I use manns extra tough clear varnish over all my desks....its water based and non yellowing....it also leaves a nice smooth finish so easier to keep clean than paint without varnish

@@kevinstorey9297 Good idea, a varnish would be harder wearing.

The correct amounts for the second putty for the second stage are: 6 parts Speedage or wall putty + 2 parts zinc white + 1 part glue + 1 part linseed oil + a little water instead of thinner, as I mentioned in the comment for stage 2. While the thinner should be used in the first stage in a ratio of 2 parts to 1 part

That sounds fascinating. I've never heard of a method like this. Thank you for sharing it. 😊

@@JohnTheHandymanUK You're welcome. You can try this on a piece of wooden MDF. Did you read the second comment about the proportions that should be used? I can contact you and provide you with something useful to understand everything I told you

Thanks for your kind comment and for subscribing. Firstly I’m not sure that MDF is the best material to use for a kitchen worktop. If the fibres get wet they will swell and you’ll be sanding and repainting these little areas. However, if you do use MDF be sure to seal/paint the internal edges really well, like a sink opening, and pay special attention to the ends of boards. I’d be worried that a clear varnish might discolour and go yellow over time, they used to years ago but perhaps they are better these days. I think I’d try an Eggshell finish over two coats of primer sealer. Use a spirit based eggshell not water based, as I think it will be more durable. If the tin says something like “clean brushes in white spirit or a proprietary cleaner” then it is spirit based. If it says “clean with water” then it is water based. Leyland Paints make this, amongst others. Have a look at my video How to Build a Wardrobe, it might help you. Good luck. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_IeKVeZtxPA.html

@@JohnTheHandymanUK TY so much fir responding ! It's a countertop on an island no where near water or cooking heat source. It's a temporary measure for a year until I install a complete new kitchen. I just need to cover up the existing countertop after removing an inset stove top which left a large hole. It's purely a quick cosmetic fix. 30k for a new kitchen isn't in my budget currently, $60 MDF was 🙃 I will check out your link . Regards Kate

@@madhattersoriginal6258 You are welcome Kate. I'm guessing that you are not in the UK as you mentioned $. If this is the case then your country may not use the word Eggshell and you may not have Leyland Paints. Since it's temporary and not going to get wet then I think a water based eggshell will last you but a spirit base paint, could even be gloss, should be more durable. Regards, John.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK A Brit in USA. I was thinking 2 coats primer, sanding between. 2 coats Water based Eggshell,. Should I sand lightly between those 2 eggshell coats? Really appreciate the recommendations. 😊

@@madhattersoriginal6258 Hi again, yes a very light sand between all coats. Like in the videos just a couple of rubs side to side will do. Use a fairly fine grit of sandpaper, say 120 or 180. Be careful of the edges, it's easy to remove too much paint!

Hi, no there is absolutely no need for a sanding sealer. The primer undercoat, or just primer if that's what you have will effectively seal the MDF.

I'd not heard of it until now. Looks a nice paint. I've actually got a project that would look good in Frenchic paint. Thanks for commenting.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK will wait until you've tried it. I need to strip the laminate off of my kitchen cupboards and go from there xxx Keeping my eye out for your project, many thanks xxx

@@christinaemerald It'll be a very long time before I try it so please don't wait. I've several other projects on the go. If I ever do try it I'll let you know. Funnily my daughter and I were discussing stripping the laminate of her kitchen cupboards and then painting them. I tried a spare door. The laminate came off easily but the surface underneath was quite scratched (didn't show under the laminate) and the glue left a hard residue. After two coats of paint it wasn't wonderful, due to the scratches that needed filling and rubbing down. We've decided it's better to just replace the doors. Another project perhaps for later in the year!

I've not tried it, but I can see it working.

What is the solution you use?

At the moment I have Sandtex quick dry Stabilising solution, I got it from B&Q. It's a clear liquid mainly for naff flacky walls. I've tried it on MDF and you can get quite a good finish on the edges once sanded.

I use 180 grit everywhere. Be sure to wrap the paper around a flat block and use it hand held or else you are likely to round over the edges.

Hi Jason, no I used standard grade MDF from my local Covers Timber Merchant. I've not heard of furniture grade and can't see it mentioned on Google. The edges were cut with a good track saw and lightly sanded before and during painting, but I imagine you've seen that.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK sorry, I call it furniture grade but it’s better known as Medite MDF. 😊👍🏻

@@jason-hh6lu I've never used Medite but certainly would in any damp or potentially wet situations.

@@JohnTheHandymanUKif you’re using mdf in damp areas use MR MDF its green and stands for moisture resistant medium density fibre board. You can get fully waterproof mdf but it’s very pricey.

@@jimgeelan5949 Hi, yes I'm aware of moisture resistant and fully waterproof MDF, Medite Tricoya, but I've never needed either. Thanks.

I'd always use a primer undercoat. For a light coloured top coat use a white undercoat. If you are planning on a dark top coat then use a darker undercoat. Grey is usual. Having said that I used white primer/ undercoat and then a dark green top coat. It covered well.

This isn't something that I've tried but if you are in the UK then look at Bedec Multi Surface Paint. As for preparation, clean the surface well and perhaps lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper. Clean again before painting. Try an inconspicuous area first! Do let me know how you get on.

Hi, I think this depends on what kind of surface finish is already on the table. If it's painted then I'd rub it down well with 120 then 240 grit sandpaper, wipe the surface clean and apply a primer then a topcoat. You can buy Multi Surface Paints, Bedec is one brand. This might work well with a couple of coats. This approach might work if it's stained.

Any satin finish water based paint will be ideal. As you have it I'd use the Dulux paint you've already bought. Eggshell finish, water based, is what I'd use. It will give a hard wearing satin finish, a slight gloss. I suspect these so called furniture paints are nothing different just a crafty way for manufactures to charge more for the same thing with a different name! Doors have been painted for decades with good old gloss and satin finish, so stick with them.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Thanks :)

This depends what you are making but if it's something to be painted then MDF is the answer as it paints really well and there is no jointing of pieces. It's stable too and won't "move" like real wood.

Yes, two coats of primer/ undercoat. The top coat can be any paint that's suitable for wood. The can will tell you.

@JohnTheHandymanUK Thankyou!

As I mentioned in the video I used an acrylic primer/undercoat and a satin finish top coat. Both are water based and made by Leyland.

I've not heard of pressboard but a quick Google search suggests it is not the same as MDF. You could try sealing the board faces and sides with a slightly diluted solution of PVA, wood glue. Applying two coats of white emulsion paint might work also.

Hi Rob, apologies that I didn't really cover the sanding process at all well! Thanks for asking. A light hand sand is all that's required. I think I used a fairly worn piece of 180 grit. If you are using a new sheet be extra careful not to remove too much paint. 220 grit might clog too quickly but if you've got this it's worth a try. It's important to wrap the paper around a flat block and keep it flat on the panel, don't just hold the paper or else you run the risk of rounding over the edges and removing the paint back to the MDF. I wouldn't use any electrical sander, too violent! It's definitely a very light sand, just a couple of times back and forth. I think I explained a little better on this video that you might like to watch. Cheers, John. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_IeKVeZtxPA.html

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Hi John, thanks very much for responding and answering the question. Your video is great, was just giving you a heads up to what info we might need, even if it seems obvious it might not already be known. Thanks again.

If I understand you correctly you want to apply a dark gloss and are looking for a dark primer. You may find a grey primer but a dark gloss will cover white primer with two coats I would think.

Thank Terry. I might try them, although I don't find that tramlines are an issue. Foam roller are generally made for gloss, varnish and spirit based paints, so I wonder how good they'll be with water based paints. I'm making a long wall hung unit for under my TV so I might try them. Cheers.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK hi John I didn’t know that . There called rota . From toolststation . Will try a short pile type to compare . I like using water based eggshell

@terry davies Hi Terry, I bought a pack this morning, so I'll be trying them soon.

Sorry to hear of your issues. Maybe you are sanding too much! I don't really know but I've never found this problem. I not tried oil or spirit based stains because of the long drying time.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Maybe I am sanding too much as I have always sanded the face with 240 using a power sander to get it silky smooth so maybe that is the cause! I will experiment more, thanks!

@user-bt5qt9pp4x good luck with it.

I used an acrylic primer/undercoat by Leyland paints.

I'm not sure about that. I'd try sanding it to provide a key, then paint with an all surface paint something like Bedec Multisurface Paint.

Hi Stephen, a very short time. I'd probably use 180 or 220 grit paper and just very very lightly go over the surfaces with 2 or 3 strokes, no more. The key is to be very light and not overrub or you risk going through the paint particularly the edges. Always sand by hand too. Hope this helps.

It as simple as paint, sand and paint again. It really doesn't need to be any more complicated! My edges look better in real life than in the video but if you have the need for glass like edges and have the time, then any kind of filler is going to help.

I don't think they do. They usually have a coat of white primer on them. It is best to give another coat of primer before the top coat.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK tha k you very much 👍

Thanks for your comment, and yes I should have shown the sanding. My mistake!

I used Leyland Trade Satinwood. It's water based like the primer. There is no need to used one of the so called bathroom, kitchen of MDF paints as they seem to be much the same and all more expensive.

@JohnTheHandymanUK Yeah I found the so called MDF paints a bit of a rip off. I gather sealing with a decent primer and just paint as normal? Thanks for the reply.

@noodles8203 Yes, a normal primer, two coats, with a very fine rub down between coats is the key to success. Two top coats also.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Cheers John.

That's an interesting way, but presumably, the oil based primer takes a lot longer to dry than the water based.

@JohnTheHandymanUK I'm in Canada and am not familiar with your products. The new oils dry much faster, sand much easier and seal much better. I know people are getting away from oil products but I still find oil works best on new wood or mdf.

@marcthibault8723 That's really interesting. The products I used, I'm in the UK, are water based. Maybe we have quicker drying oils based paints like you have. It sounds like you have a great solution. 👍

In the UK You can buy Furniture Paint for laminated furniture like kitchen cupboards. Clean the surfaces well and lightly sand before applying the paint. Try 200 grit sandpaper. Don't worry if the paint looks streaky as a second coat will go on better. I've not tried this myself, but I expect it works well. Good luck.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK do I use primer before. I was at handyman store they were suggesting me to use special primer which will work good with plastic surface

@akshay wani I don't think the furniture paint requires a primer. In the UK we also have Multi Surface Paint that doesn't need a primer.

Maybe there is too much paint on the roller, or it's not the right type of roller. At least they go eventually.

I've never come across any MDF with a shiny surface that needs sanding first, unless it is laminated of course. Ar you in the UK? I'm curious to know what you have in mind.

@JohnTheHandymanUK Yeah the UK. Maybe it's because I use thin sheets it's like that

There is nothing to glue unless you mean "do I prime it with glue?" in which case the answer is no. And there is no need for fancy so called MDF primers. They are all water based so the general primer undercoat that I used does the job perfectly.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Sorry not all primers are water based, I have bought oil based primers to use on MDF.

@@cruise2023 Interesting. In the past I dare say I've used oil based primers but it would be decades ago. I've not come across an oil based primer for general use for a very long time.

You make a good point so I'll mention drying time when I edit my video on making cornhole boards. Drying time will depend on the ambient temperature but the primer/undercoat can generally be recoated in an hour and the top coat perhaps slightly longer but not much.

Your paint can should tell you the recoat time

You are using the wrong paint. Latex will always stick together.

@@giovalladares1022 Yes, very true. Water based paints like the ones I've used will easily dry within an hour.

@@mugrock72 In the UK we don't have Latex paint so I don't know what that is. Latex to me is a rubber substance! If it sticks together then that doesn't sound like something good to use! I am definitely using the correct paint for the job.

I don't think primers were acrylic years ago. I suspect that all acrylic paint is water based.

Not all primers are water based, one can get ( as I have ) oil based primers. Which should be used prior to painting MDF. The other thing is the edges should be sealed if you want them to look as good as the face. Again non water based product to be used, dry wall putty or similar. The paint should also be non water based, oil, acrylic or lacquered. MDF does not like water based anything.

I've never found satin finish to get dirty and I've painted all the woodwork in a house with it.

Nonsense..a type of paint don't get dirty more than another..if there's dirt there's dirt...

Well you don't have to use a brush but it's likely that you'll have one on the go. Certainly just using a roller would be quicker. One of the points of the video is that you don't need expensive paints like Bullseye123. Kitchen and bathroom paint is as far as I'm aware just water based satin finish but with a higher price tag! These niche paints pander to the DIYer who doesn't know better.

Thanks for your videos John. I am exactly that demographic!!

@@coffeeeater I'm pleased you enjoyed it.

True, but it can apply more paint than the roller to the edges in my opinion.

Of course, spraying will give a nicer finish, but for those who don't have a spray gun or the space to spray then my method works very well.

I'm not sure why you'd think that. It is in fact a very good product for many situations.

Retired professional and working at home on a cold day!

Used properly and in the right places, MDF is a great choice.

The point is...you don't need any special techniques or paint. Many people make it more complicated and expensive and it needn't be.

I'm not a fan of Zinsser particularly the stain blocker which doesn't work! It's more expensive than ordinary acrylic primer sealer and satin coat too. It you like it that's great.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK it’s not the stain blocker I use, it’s the one in the red tin that you meths or alcohol to water it down. Massive advantage on edges as it plucks the surface like sanding sealer does with wood and sets just as quick then just cut it off with 120. It makes a good base for any other paint you want to use

@MrRodigan yes I realise it's not the stain blocker that you use. I'm just saying that this Zinsser product doesn't work!

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Zinsser stain blockers work but most people use the wrong product in the wrong place because they don't read the instructions on the tin.

Zinsser stain blocker is water based, well it was when I tried it. This causes the stain to bleed through so is useless. A spirit based paint always works. This can be overpainted with something different if required.

Good question. It's not really necessary, but a roller can leave lines, edges, and a brush will smooth them out. I find that you can put on a thicker coat with a brush too, but it's marginal.