Hi! Not sure you reply to old videos, but if you do, how do I paint a board that’s not new, it’s got all kinds 0f paint residue on it, and some edges have lost paint, just normal wear and tear of a work table. Is it even worth trying to make it smooth surfaces again?
Hi, I think this depends on what kind of surface finish is already on the table. If it's painted then I'd rub it down well with 120 then 240 grit sandpaper, wipe the surface clean and apply a primer then a topcoat. You can buy Multi Surface Paints, Bedec is one brand. This might work well with a couple of coats. This approach might work if it's stained.
Out of interest, why did you put back down the old floor after cutting through the tongue and groove? I am doing similar for my floor soon but replacing the chipboard.
I appreciate what you did for your grandchildren, but we, as Arabs and Muslims, have a method of dyeing that preserves the MDF board for a long time.In the beginning, we sand the board with fine sand, then we take a little zinc powder, we dissolve it in the thinner, then we take a little oil dye, mix them well, paint it, and after it dries completely, we sand it and smooth it. Then we take again the Londoy paste, which is known as wall paste, and add zinc to it, as well as oil dye, a little white glue, and a very small amount of thinner, and mix them well Then, after complete drying, we sand it and smooth it, and finally we paint it with oil dye in any color we want. These stages give the MDF unit a longer lifespan and a good marble texture. 😊
The correct amounts for the second putty for the second stage are: 6 parts Speedage or wall putty + 2 parts zinc white + 1 part glue + 1 part linseed oil + a little water instead of thinner, as I mentioned in the comment for stage 2. While the thinner should be used in the first stage in a ratio of 2 parts to 1 part
@@JohnTheHandymanUK You're welcome. You can try this on a piece of wooden MDF. Did you read the second comment about the proportions that should be used? I can contact you and provide you with something useful to understand everything I told you
Hi I have a Honda izy easy start I have an issue with it it keeps surging I have taken off the carburettor and cleaned the jets and needles and everything else so I put it back together runs amazing for 10 minutes then the surging starts again can you help thanks
Hi, I'm sorry but I can't help you with your problem. It's not something I've heard of. Is there a fuel filter? Maybe it's blocked and needs cleaning or replacing. You are probably best to take it to a dealer who does servicing, buy maybe ask their advice first. I hope that you can solve the problem.
Excellent video and a great job! Proposing to do exactly this with my own dining room/kitchen wall. I’ve just moved to this home, and my kitchen has a small window that doesn’t bring a lot of natural light. Borrowed light seems to be the way forward.
The chipboard on my floor was laid down… back in 1983. They are leasehold flats; but not really able to tell if they were joined together by a…. Groove method. But nevertheless… sawing down the joints very carefully does help to eliminate that particular creaking problem.
Prior to my recent comment that i made about creaking… squeaking chip board floors. i recently found out that… the real reason why chip board floors squeak and creak all the time when you tread on it.. is because when the boards are laid on the floor; builders nail them too close together, on the Joist. I noticed that when i ran a saw down the chipboard joints, very carefully… the squeaky noise stopped completely.
Chipboard floors are usually tongue and groove and they are meant to be glued together, but maybe yours aren't like that. That's good that you've found a solution.
I use this model in my gardening business.I keep them for 3 years,then replace with same model.None have ever broke down.I use them for my small estate lawns.Sometimes doing 14 lawns a day.Only downside is cheap plastic wheel bearings,which will wear out.I replace mine with proper bearings.Some hondas now,you can pay £740 for an hrn,and its has plastic bearings,which cannot be changed anymore ???
That's good to hear. I know of two gardeners who use a Honda Izy. It's interesting to hear about the wheel bearings but not good if they can't be replaced now. 🙂
@@JohnTheHandymanUK much appreciated, thank you. Moving into a property and they are squeeking everywhere, but the joists are those stupid lightweight hollow ones, rather than proper solid ones that I can easily add additional ones.
Thank you for your kind comment. The MDF didn't have a name to it. I'd had the sheets several years before I used them, and they came from a timber merchant called Covers in Horsham, England. Covers have a few branches in the South of England with Chichester being absolutely huge! I don't think they were anything special, they certainly weren't moisture resistant. I know that The 10 Minute Workshop on RU-vid always uses moisture resistant as the edges cut very well. Sorry I can't be more specific.
Thank you and enjoy it. Mine must be ten years old now. I've heard some people say that the steel base rusts. I brush the grass off after every use and spray with a lubricant intended for hedge trimmers. It supposedly breaks down the grass and green stuff. So far despite some surface rust there are no holes at all.
I'm not really sure that plywood wood be better. Certainly no worse. If you are just changing some boards, you might not find them the same thickness which would cause you problems. I think the problems in my room is that the joists may have shrunk and now move against other timbers.
I've never come across any MDF with a shiny surface that needs sanding first, unless it is laminated of course. Ar you in the UK? I'm curious to know what you have in mind.
Thank you for your video. And hello from Minnesota! I’m wanting to make a small wide rectangular opening in a guest bathroom that does not have any windows. I want to put it up high so it only brings in light but no one can see in. It will open to the living room vaulted ceiling so I’ll need glass for soundproofing/privacy. This helped so much!
I'm pleased you enjoyed it Teresa. It's great knowing where my viewers are from too. Good luck with your project and don't forget to subscribe, please. I want to reach 4000 subscribers.
My preference is to put a coat of acrylic varnish/lacquer as a top coat. It means that you can choose your level of gloss/matt even if your paint isn't available in that choice. Most often, I used an ordinary matt emulsion. If you are painting to match the walls or otherwise already have paint of the desired colour, you do not need to buy a can of satin finish for what might be a small area of MDF that needs to be painted. The varnish can slightly affect the colour but for light shades it is usually perfectly acceptable. The best acrylic varnish I found was one meant for floors. It produces a surface that is much tougher than any ordinary paint. And I'd usually choose a semi-matt. Many years ago, I made a huge desk fitted to the walls. Even after those years of use, when we removed it to make the room usable for other purposes, the finish was in an almost perfect state.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK I think my reply might have been zapped due to including a URL. It was bought from Screwfix but they no longer stock it. My memory suggests the company was in SE England - London/Essex/Kent. But I could be totally wrong. Was in a half-gallon plastic container. However, remainders have been decanted into anonymous jars so cannot refer. A company called Finneys do something that appears similar and they offer a small sample (charged).
This isn't something that I've tried but if you are in the UK then look at Bedec Multi Surface Paint. As for preparation, clean the surface well and perhaps lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper. Clean again before painting. Try an inconspicuous area first! Do let me know how you get on.
IKEA uses Pozidrive screws almost exclusively, not Philips. If you keep losing grip or ruining the screw heads, there’s a good chance you’re using a Philips screwdriver.
Finally found a video that pretty much exactly matches our setup - great idea with the noggins, I'm tackling our bedroom this weekend and have everything I need apart from the timber and track - Thanks John!
I'm pleased you found it useful. To be honest the squeaks haven't all gone! I think the joints have shrunk over time and it's these that squeak where they go under a wall. Best of luck, it's a bit of a pain to do!
@@JohnTheHandymanUK Thanks! I was originally going to try and lift the boards up after I cut one out but it seems that's an impossible task with them being under the skirting. I was actually recommended some D4 tongue and groove glue and was told that makes the world of difference - fingers crossed!
@@reecevaughan4225 Yes the foaming glues might work but I suspect that you need the glue between the floor and the joists, which means taking up the flooring. A little trial and error is needed I think!
Very well done John. Today in my wood working class I worked with MDF. Here is my experience MdF is a beginners choice to try various projects. It takes screws like butter. But if you use smoothing plane it is very difficult. The saw dust is fine. So wear a mask ! I will try the painting on MDF later . John,please introduce your shed and various tools. You have nice gigs.please introduce them. One secret jig which I did Make a wedge in pine wood for about 25cms. Sand all edges. You have a mobile Shoe tree.
I wouldn't say that MDF is for beginners at all. There are many instances when it's better than say solid wood or plywood. It's used extensively in furniture making. Yes using a plane on the edges doesn't work well and the dust should not be inhaled. As for screws try using the black screws for fixing plasterboard. In the UK we call them Bugle Head Drywall Screws. They are thin yet have quite a large tooth. The bugle head will pull into the surface better than a countersunk. Highly recommended. Maybe one day I'll introduce my workshop. Right now it's very messy and too cold to work there.
Super duper.Woidworking Guru Steve Ramsay says everything should be on Wheels (Casters in America).yes adding wheels facilitates moving heavy tools around. Somehow I found this modification after modification difficult to grasp as a beginner. As a beginner I would think We need four 2x4 Which will form the base. Then add the wheels. Then mount the tool ie Band saw or mitre saw. I will make a template of what I want in my next wood working class. All in all it was good.
The LT is for models with a timer and will come from your bathroom light, so when the light is turned on, it triggers the fan to operate. The Live will then supply power when the light is turned off so it can then run for as long as the timer permits.
What would you do if you were going to paint it in a different colour than the undercoat? Would you still use the undercoat then a different top coat paint?
I'd always use a primer undercoat. For a light coloured top coat use a white undercoat. If you are planning on a dark top coat then use a darker undercoat. Grey is usual. Having said that I used white primer/ undercoat and then a dark green top coat. It covered well.
I've not heard of pressboard but a quick Google search suggests it is not the same as MDF. You could try sealing the board faces and sides with a slightly diluted solution of PVA, wood glue. Applying two coats of white emulsion paint might work also.
Best thing to do is apply a coat of shellac before painting, because shellac is alcohol based it penetrates well into the surface and flashes off quickly sealing the surface without raising the fibres, works very well on cut edges and a quick sand after applying gives a super smooth surface ready for paint. This even works on the very cheapest MDF which is normally a total pain to paint. Then you can even apply water based acrylic paint and it won't soak into the MFD giving a bad finish because of the shellac.
I guess that might work well, I've never tried shellac, but as you can see from my video there is really no need for extra steps. Water based acrylic paint goes on really well.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK With decent quality MDF that is normally true but the cheap stuff from places like Wicks or B&Q is a nightmare to paint without sealing it first. After applying shellac you can get a paint finish like glass so even with decent MDF it still makes a difference. It especially makes a difference on cut edges when applied before final sanding. It makes even the cheapest MDF take paint like the green moisture resistant stuff.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK Ok, good luck with the project. I was skeptical about shellac myself at first but it was a game changer for me. Only thing I would say is make sure you get actual shellac not something in a can just called shellac. It should be either ethanol or methanol based.
Excellent tutorial. An extraordinary example of how to paint ordinary MDF. The pointers on light sources, where to start, and where to find paint on the roller for touch-ups were spot on. Thank you.
