How to paint miniatures Oldhammer style 

You are very kind!

have a try with the old guide!

I feel I have to agree with a lot of what you say. Would you like to see a return of the old style minis/painting?

@@SnakeWorksStudio Even by the late 90s the move to black primer and drybrushing for a "grittier" (now we would say "grimdark", I suppose) look and feel was becoming very popular. So I think the hobby is big enough for all types of painting! From the really cutting edge stuff like Marco Frisoni, Miniac, and Ninjon do, all the way down to "full Oldhammer" style (which some people are able to do even these days with breathtaking effectiveness). I am mostly doing Bolt Action these days, so I'm back to pretty much the way I used to paint back in the late 90s - block in all your base colo(u)rs, hit the entire model with Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia, hit the flesh areas with Reikland Flesh Shade, and I also use Nuln Oil Gloss on any metallic areas to dull it down but keep it glossy. No, we didn't have any of those in the 90s, but we did have Flesh Wash and Armour Wash. Same result, pretty much! Then I use a single highlight color for the entire model, VMC Dark Sand in this case, since I am painting Imperial Japanese, and I *lightly* drybrush the entire model with that color which unifies it and adds highlights. I've managed to turn out over 50 infantry this way in less than 2 months, which is quite fast for me! At the end of the day, I think the most important part of this hobby is that people should do what they enjoy. Sometimes I feel like that gets lost in the FOMO and "must have the #latestthing" hype generated by GW and some of the fan communities. Keep up the great work, mate, love the channel!

@@elcasey Currently going for a style inspired by old eavy metal. Mostly Dave Perry. You have to think a lot about color combinations, I like it, makes it more interesting. A lot of models I see around thus seems pretty flat. There are a couple of other styles I'd like to try my hand at though. But resources for specific styles are a bit difficult to find. One really good way is to buy some second hand models in a style you want and use as a reference. Pictures just aren't good enough for it.

Did you paint any yourself too?

thanks man! I hope you enjoyed it!

@@SnakeWorksStudio every minute) this video has such cozy feeling, I must've rewatched it, like, ten or twenty times at some point I was struck with a huge inspiration to sculpt similar-looking dwarf miniature, so I could try using this guide to finally bring myself to paint a mini for the first time) in the past I've made some crappy ones here, couple of very average-looking ones there, but never actually tried painting them seems to me it's only fitting to follow a 'eavy metal article from the 80's)

How so? these are very very old tips

while I have grumped how being right/left handed impacts the angle you paint a miniature from, I never thought of something as simple as turning a model upside down to better access one of the eyes while painting faces. Ironically I do manipulate the model in 3d space quite a lot for other details - I just never considered doing it for eyes @@SnakeWorksStudio

Glad you enjoyed it! Do you still have your dwarf?

@@SnakeWorksStudio oddly enough, yes I do. At the time it was the best painted model I had and I didn't even have a Dwarf army back in the day

Will you be having a go?

I will see what I can do! 90's you say?

@@SnakeWorksStudio yeah late 90s, box art / eavy metal style stuff. Thin blacklining only started going out of fashion in the early 2000s I think

I think people also used to put a wash over the black (when washing the basecoat) to lessen the contrast slightly.

100 percent truth and almost every painting guide out there looks more like a glorified advert for paints, rather than any kind of sensible advice

@@0ff868 I used to rely a lot on the Citadel Colour app until recently. I got me a wet palette and even though I have a lot of paints from various brands (Citadel, P3, and Vallejo), I'm getting more into blending on the fly now and creating my own gradients and such. I have not succumbed to the Contrast Plague yet and will not give in!

do you like the black lining?

I feel its a bit of a mix

@@SnakeWorksStudio yeah, I think blacklining wasn't necessary at all It looks cool, though, when you've mastered it, but it's a long way

yes! do you still have him somewhere?

@@SnakeWorksStudio unfortunately not, my cousins had all my old citadel stuff when I hit my chasing girls and highs faze of my life. It was then years later I returned to the hobby and had to start collecting all over again unfortunately

We don’t want to be getting headaches from the paint! Have you tried the newer stuff since?

is it true about the green base thing?

@@SnakeWorksStudio it was for my local shop, thats how I knew my mate had been borrowing the models I left at his house.

And nowadays those dwarfs would be something like $50 USD for those five! Or something mad like that anyway. GW's pricing model is still ridiculous.

Considering a portion a chips was 25p then it was still a wedge

How’s the paint on those coming along?

Have you tried oils or contrast?

i only used what i had to hand. if i were an expert i would have got the original paint! did you ever paint like this?

do you like them?

@@SnakeWorksStudio Yes, I still paint like that and I like what you've done. The main difference is I would have used a regular brown to shade under his nose instead of a really dark brown because it looked a little strong there and I would have used a slightly browner and darker red to shade in the grooves of the shirt and used a little orangish red to highlight the ridges of the shirt. That would have helped give more depth to the outfit. I use a lot of different brands, but I like Coat D'Arms paints the most, but I also use vallejo, P3, WarColours, WarColours Classic 88', sometimes oil paint too, even cheap Folk Art or Delta Ceramacoat type acrylic paint like you can get at Walmart. Just whatever works. Just by painting a lot and you'll find out that the type of paint you use isn't as important as how you use it. It's just that miniature paint is finer and less gritty than cheaper stuff so while different paint has to be handled differently to get good results you just try different approaches until it works for you. But you don't need original paint old school citadel paint to paint in the old style. The coat d'arms brand and p3 brand paint is basically the same stuff and the warcolours classic 88' is pretty good too especially the reds and metalics. The medium is a little thinner than it used to be especially the warcolours classic '88 brand, but that's not a bad thing since you don't have to thin it as much to get it to flow. But the old school type paints like those brands do separate a lot especially the blues so it's good to have some mixing balls to drop into the container of paint and a nail polish paint shaker can really help too. I have arthritis so it's a major blessing for me to just hit a button and let the machine do the work especially since I have so many different paints and shaking them all up is really hard for me now.

Have you tried it?

@@SnakeWorksStudio Yes, it's really what I was missing for an old school look on my minis. That's super easy too!

I would agree! I was just trying to follow the guide, have you tried it yourself?

@@SnakeWorksStudio no,..I have my way...which is based on which is most efficient. Is not efficient to fully paint one part of a model...because you need to open pots ...close them and then reopen them again later a million times. I still though your video was great.

Thank you! Have you tried painting old style?

thank you very much! you are very kind!

@@SnakeWorksStudio You are welcome !

Hello! What pieces are you collecting?

@@SnakeWorksStudio you can see a part of my collection on my channel. Essentialy citadel LOTR, D&D and AD&D and warhammer of the years 80´s and 90´s. 😃

thanks! im glad you enjoye it!

50p painting guide?

@@SnakeWorksStudio yeah. “How to Paint Citadel Miniatures” .. a little pamphlet which sold for 50p. I bought it at around the time of WD issue 110 I’d say. It was about 12 pages long. It’s red. I didn’t watch the start of your video properly before - and I assumed you had a version of it with a different cover on your desk.. I didn’t realise you were following a guide inside WD99. It had about 2 pages on cleaning your model etc.

I would have to see it IRL but I dont think I would mind the black lines. Why? Like often it depends. Is it a display pice? One you will look at from a few inches away? Probably not. Its supposed to be a about a meter away in a table. I remeber how happy I was with my dryads I painted like .... 14 years ago. Now that I picked them out again to play Old World I notice the same issue. They look great. Up close. But on the table rhe contrast just isnt enough.

haha yes! do you still have any?

@@SnakeWorksStudio sadly not I wasn't in charge of my last move, so only my LOTR and some 2000's vampires made it. Very few of the paint jobs would have stood up. A friend still has all his box sets and Games tho dating back to Mid/Late 80s Fantasy Battle and 40k

Is it fun to paint with?

@@SnakeWorksStudio I was a kid at the time so I loved it, but as an adult.. no way!

a very good idea!

You're right! I was trying to follow the old guide. it was hard!

I had to scour eBay for days!

@@SnakeWorksStudio good effort

hahahaa it doesn't matter as long as its fully painted!

E mail me @scifiwargamers@hotmail.com with some pics and a list?