What I appreciated watching this video is the time you took to do each and every step and attention to detail. Definitely worth the effort. Thanks for putting it out.
Nice job! I am restoring a 1984 Yamaha Virago 1000 and this is exactly what I need to do. It's nice to see someone else doing it so I can get some ideas. Your workmanship is very good an it looks great.
Training under you for a month or two while on a vacation would be a dream.. then bring back the skills i learned to Canada and spread more Japanese joy
So much care and attention to do detail. The pre-cut bends for where the spoke meets the wheel :O I will try and work this carefully over winter on a similar SR400/500 wheel. Not sure were I'd find 2mm tape, perhaps an art supply store.
Very inspired by your 'how to paint motorcycle wheels' and 'how to custom paint a motorcycle' videos. Thank you for sharing! I plan to polish my ZX-14r wheels but will leave the paint black for now here in Kumamoto. I really love the gold look but I'm afraid I'd be too lazy to clean the brake dust, ha, ha. Awesome work!!!!!
Very Professional Job! I like the use of a clear coat, although they mean that you should not use a steam cleaner on it. I also like to remove the tyre, its amazing how much dirt there is on inside of the rim where a tyre has sat for many years. Well Done!
I’ve read that its better to remove the corrosion with chromic acid than to use a metal brush. The brush will cause galvanic corrosion to form under the paint over time.
They're stunning! I've got to do this very shortly on my Suzuki Gsx400f wheels, they are very similar design to these but they have more lines that need taping up than the ones shown here. Good luck to me I guess.
superb craftmanship! the precuting the tape corner radius is genius! thank you for sharing!! is the tape you use crepe paper? it looks great and really sticks well... here in sweden its impossible to get good fineline tape. best regards m. möller
Why did you wait until after the paint and clear coat to Finnish polishing? I would want clear coat over the polished alloy to protect it and keep the shine. You are very good at what you do. You take your time. If you could make a computer file for all the tape areas. You could cut out all your tape work with a cutter/plotter. Then sell the download. This would save you a lot of time in masking. It would be more putting stickers on the rim/tank/whatever. Your fiberglass template that you made and all the tape and time. Could be all cut out with the plotter. Great job on keeping the machined areas free of paint. Paint can melt and cause the torque rating to be lessened for the people that don't know.
I know this is an old comment but for people who read this please do not clear coat over bare or polished alloy as it will just look awful over time when the metal starts to corrode and mess it up then you have to strip all of the paint off and start again. Just keep on top of them with a bit of polish now and again to keep the shine.
@@RM-gc4zk Well the purpose of the clear coat on the polished metal is to provide a seal barrier from atmospheric conditions, mostly oxygen, which is the main cause of oxidation on the bare aluminum, which makes it start to turn dull, the bright polish will last long enough if you seal it well, thus avoiding the need to constantly keep polishing the wheel. Always test the choice of clear coat paint to determine which one will last longer before starting to turn yellow, which is what usually happens with clear paint over age.
true but try metallic silver as a base and i will be using metallic gold top coat then clear it all in rattle cans but then sand and polish the rims for effect give yourself 2 to 3 days end result will blow ur mind i bet
Any ideas how to leave a perfect tape line when using paint remover so as to leave the original paint intact with a nice clean edge? Paint remover bleeds past the tape line when I do it leaving a jagged line. Fortunately I practiced before stripping to the ridge on the wheel where I want to stop.
Wheels seem similar to GPZ305 but you've got a rear disc and a 19" front - if I'm gonna fit a CAST wheel (I'm way more into wire-spokes, OR the Honda COMSTAR rebuilt with Akront "NERVI" 50% lighter yet wider rims!) well I'd much rather have a slightly wider rim than standard, and either 18" front & rear, or 16" front & 18" rear - Check out my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" and "KZ440LOL" projects sometime! "Binky Sigh" on Crackbook!
