Some additional historical information I left out of the video (my background was getting long enough as it was!) The first tropical camouflage pattern (Tropentarn 1) was introduced on 17 March 1941, and was used until April 1943. The scheme is a base of RAL8000 Gelbbraun and (usually) 30% coverage of RAL7008 Graugrün. Sometimes the RAL7008 was not applied. Sometimes, yes, this Tropentarn was applied over vehicles already painted in Panzer Grey (RAL7021). That was especially common early in North Africa in 1941, as many vehicles were still in service that had been built prior to the introduction of tropical camouflages. Later on, the Tropentarn was applied to vehicles in the factory, as would be the case with my Panzer III N in the video, or Tiger 1 for example. The colour is not the same as the standard German dark yellow used later in the war. That is RAL7028 Dunkelgelb, introduced in February 1943. The historical photos I showed are original colour, and were taken before February 1943 so the vehicles shown cannot be painted in Dunkelgelb. They are Tropentarn. There is a second, lighter tropical camouflage pattern (Tropentarn 2) introduced 25 March 1942. That was a RAL8020 base with RAL7027 camouflage. We will look at that another day.
Bruce Worrall on Facebook did some experiments with that. He got a great result on his Pz IV. I used the AK RC paints for tropentarn 2 and they weren't great. Further experiments will need to be done.
Nice Ausführung N (in an attempt to elaborate on the „Ausf.“ abbreviation - that’s always just written, never spoken)! Thanks for that. Will look into the RAL 7008 replacement color, that’s interesting
Splendid work as always! Never really looked into the tropical camouflage but I reckon I should, it's a very nice variation to the usual grey or dunkelgelb!
@Panzermeister36 ah there is no stress at all mate. If could get half my M4s to look as class your work I'm be a happy out. As I learn so much from your work 😊
A good tutorial. I second your choice of not adding clear coats with one caution. Unless Tamiya flat colors are chemically dry (I'm told this takes at least 17 hours), they remain vulnerable to the alcohols in setting solutions. I have had this confirmed on a couple of ocassions by obvious paint damage. Since it's unpredictable, if I'm impatient and want to move on with the job, I will overspray a light coat of Tamiya semi-gloss (satin) onto the model. This light coat also help the paint become more resistant to abrassive wear and tear as the model is handled. Keep up the good work and independent thought.
Nice job…as always…how many tiger1 were sent to North Africa…and how many made it out.. I know the fear of that tank spooked allies throughout the war..when the numbers don’t seam match the “legend “ of the tiger1
Great tutorial. You're almost the Teacher. The deterioration of the paint surface would be different in a dry desert than in a wet, earthy land. I didn't know tropical camouflage was so low contrast. I'm going to build a vehicle of Africa Korps in the next. So this video is very informative. Thank you for sharing my friend. Best wishes, NOB
I like to build N. Africe, Sicily, and Italian thearters for tge European war. You did a great job of tge early tropical camouflage. At present I'm working on Italian vehicle's. But i just purchased the Academy Pz-1 with motorcycle sidecar. I think i will try tamiya colors to see they match up with my previiuse Pz-3 and Pz-2. Just curious how my color choices compared to your's.
Very informative. Been looking to paint some early DAK with Panzer III Gs, Panzer IV Es, and some Pz II Fs, and this subtle camo looks much better than standard RAL 8000.
I enjoy watching your informative and at the same time clearly and understandably commented tutorials very much! If you wouldn't mind, I would be interested in your personal opinion on my own T-34 model in my channel. Although it is 1/16 scale and an RC conversion from a static kit, I tried to get as close to real as possible. I'd appreciate it. Keep up fantastic work! 👍
It's nice to see someone else using wheel masks. I've been cutting my own using a micrometer to measure the wheel and then transferring that info to Silhouette Studio, and cutting the mask out from .015" Evergreen sheet. Thanks for the video! This kit is next on my build list after I finish the Stug III Ausf B in panzer grey (my first German tank).
Hello, yes I thin the Tamiya LP paints with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Other lacquer thinners would work too. The ratio is the same as the Tamiya XF paints I showed for the camo: 40% paint, 60% thinner.
Yes I painted the LP-18 as a solid base coat....not technically primer but it's durable paint for sure. I think it 60% thinner to 40% paint and I use Mr Color Leveling Thinner.
I'm amazed only seen your video by chance but once I started watching couldn't stop watching you're a perfectionist wish my mechanic was as meticulous as you lol class
Great Video! I am a modern armour builder but your videos make me want to try out something German ww2. I would like to build a Panzer III or IV, can you recommend a decent kit for someone who just wants to dip their toe into the subject?
Wondered where you had been. I have an actual German periscope that my dad brought back. It is a black-grey which I always assumed was German grey. I am now wondering if it was black and has faded. Guess I am going to have to see if I can find it. Anyway. Excellent work with the Tamiya paints. Both of those colors XF-59 and XF-49 have multiple uses. Another good one is XF-51 khaki drab. Very nice looking camouflage.
Another fantastic video. I have always enjoyed this pattern and as you pointed out it is not widely known in the modeling community. I recently started 1/16th scale and I am very curious how my 1/35th skills will adapt to a much larger scale. Next up on my bench is a 1/16th Panzer III. I sure would like to do the same scheme you did. Have you thought about 1/16th scale? I really enjoy the larger parts because I am much older. Thank you
As always great job and very helpful to me as I am doing a 1/16 panzer 3 from dad werx which I am going to do in Afrika paint scheme. So….no Afrika Korps symbol on your tank? Was it not done much by the Wehrmacht?
Thank you! This vehicle is from the 501 s.Pz.Abt which fought in Tunisia but was never a part of the Afrika Korps. Instead these "Heavy Tank Battalions" were independent groups. In this case the prowling Tiger symbol is used by this unit. So this Panzer III is more of an exception than the rule! Most Panzer III in North Africa were part of the Afrika Korps.
Thanks John. Adam's busy raising his kids but he is still finding time to get some building in. I Skype with him and some other buddies on most weekends. Hopefully more videos from him soon!
Hey, thank you for informative video ♥️👍 I'd like to ask if you could make a video of german tank camo through the years as to say, from early 30s to the end of the war? Im trying to find info about that, but it's not complet and sometimes contradictory 🤔 Anyway, good video as always 👍
Absolutely fantastic video. My B/F and I are model enthusiasts...😄. Meaning we love to build WW2 models...but painting and detailing them to appear weathered and beat is always a challenge. Thankyou for your expertise and great explanations. Hapoy modeling 👍👍👍😁😁😁
Really nice detail in this video, Evan. Nice of you to explain the “why” of things, such as using enamel washes over an acrylic base coat. Your weathering gives the piece a “just right” look, rather than turning it into a caricature.
Thank you for this! Spent an hour researching what colors to use for this pattern and finally found your video. Do you do a final matte topcoat/varnish?
If you've used pigments I would not apply a varnish after. Matte varnish immediately beforehand is sufficient. Now, if you're only using oils and enamel washes for the mud effects then a varnish at the end is not a problem.
Looks pretty dang good! As I dip my toes into armor modeling I find myself weirdly fascinated with the North African campaign and the vehicles used. My first tank was a pz iv that is supposed to be painted in the field by some of the first guys in africa but idk that I’m overall happy with it! Specially after seeing this video!😂 Also are you on IG?
I could use some help...I have made a couple of army tanks recently and would like to know if there is a specific was to separate the paint of the rubber road tires in black from the colored wheels ...are there painting masks available...mine do not turn out anywhere respectable...HELP
There are masking sets available. Look at "Quickwheels" for a wide range. You'll need a set for each kit as the wheels are always different sizes. Alternatively you can just drafting circle templates but they might not be the exact right size.
Thank you! This is a Dragon Pz III L kit that I converted to a Pz III N using some PanzerArt aftermarket and other spare parts I had laying around. www.scalemates.com/profiles/mate.php?id=124998&p=projects&project=141640
Another excellent video. I am about ready to paint a 1/48 Tamiya Panzer iii Ausf N. I will painting it in this camouflage colors. Would StuG iii in Italy possibly br painted in the tropical camouflage. I have one i will be building.
Thank you! For a StuG III in Italy, an Ausfürung F or F/8 would have the second tropical camouflage pattern (which is lighter -- I can help you with that). An Ausfürung G in Italy would be in the usual Dunkelgelb/dark yellow. So it would depend on the StuG III version you are doing.
Thank you for the additional information. The StuG iii I have is a 1/35 Tamiya StuG iii Ausf G. I guess I will do it in Dunkelgelb with winter camouflage as on the Russian front with T-Rex Winterkrette tracks. I haven’t done a winter camouflage before.
Yes, but you may want to lighten both paints slightly with some buff so it doesn't appear too dark on the small model. Due to less reflected light, usually you have to lighten paint on smaller scales.
Great tutorial, really nice shades. It should be noted that the Germans also used Italian stocks of paints, captured British paints as well as Luftwaffe tropical paints (i.e. RLM 79), which can only add more variety to our desert vehicles.
I am wondering whether or not that often repeated „…using stocks of captured paints…“ statement in the contexts of the Africa campaigns is a myth or not. 30-40 years ago (unfortunately, I am old enough to remember) it brought us years of discussing pea green (supposedly Italian stock) or alternatively faded olive drab (‚captured’ US stocks)Tigers in Afrika, and years of disregarding the initial Africa Korps camouflage of mud smeared vehicles in combination with layers of dust (supposedly liberated Italian paints). The Brits had their main staging area deep in Egypt, with extensive workshop facilities to prepare and repair their tanks. As supply capacities were always rare (obviously much more so for the Germans), why would any side waste cargo space by hauling paint tins through the desert? And yes, the Germans penetrated US lines on occasions and captured a good number of vehicles, but why would the US Army have paints that far forward? Other than repeated written statements in discussion forums, there is no convincing evidence for he captured paint theory to my knowledge.
@@Custer0706 when Tobruk fell in the late June 1942, Germans not only captured vast amounts of equipment, but also weapons, uniforms, boots, shirts, bread bakeries and everything British left. Among over 2000 vehicles of all different sorts, there were 7,000 tons of water and three million rations of food. Was it so strange to find large stocks of paint as well?
@@MrKersey Yes. Because everything you listed is absolutely essential to wage war in an isolated part of a remote desert. But the paint. There is no such thing as too much water in a desert, but there is such thing as wasted transport capacities to haul paint, and even “large stocks” of it. I obviously don’t have an official listing of the Tobruk booty, but neither have you. And until that is made available and does prove me wrong, I’ll stick to what I stated and what I learned during my army service time. No army keeps large amount of paints close to the front line, because there is neither a need for it nor a necessity nor the means to do it.
Thank you for showing us your awesome model painting techniques !. Just one question, do you over spray some kind of clear paint after you finish all painting ?.🤔
You, Sir, do some very good work. Combined with your technical knowledge of the subject it is a no-brainer why you have become one of my go-to modeling "instructors." Many thanks and much respect from this old dog.
In reality, the colors green and brown were issued in a paste that was intended to be thinned with either gasoline or water. In practice, they would be thinned with anything that was available from oil to urine. After that fading in the sun, blasting in the sand, or wearing in the cold made for an amazing range of shades. So any shade that is close is good. The idea that a certain shade is not "right" is just uninformed of what happens in real life. The dark yellow from the factory also varied wildly from factory to factory, and allied bombing raid to allied bombing raid. towards the end the old gray was used because they had stocks of it that had not been used. So if anyone tries to tell you a certain shade is not quite right, when it comes to German armor in WWII they are wrong. Also the green and brown on german tanks were hand painted because it was thinned with petroleum, for obvious reasons.
This is all incorrect information disproven in the 1990s. It stemmed from a misunderstanding of what the tropen colours originally were. There is little to no variation, since everything was standardized as part of the military acceptance program. There were no paint shortages at the end of the war. And, after August 1944, the green and brown were not applied in the field but were instead applied in the factory in standardized schemes (sometimes with stencils) so that vehicles would be camouflaged during transportation to the unit. This was done due to allied air superiority at the time. There's hundreds of photographs and documents to support this. The alternative is myths created by model paint companies to sell more sets and colours.
@@Panzermeister36 Talk about a myth, where did you make that up from? Just for starters go find photos of any two or three panzers with the same color scheme. Ever hear of Ever hear of a reference work called Panzer colors? You may want to do a lot more research on your subject.
@@Panzermeister36 No it is history, you can try to revise it if you want but you have already failed. Paint varied from manufacture to manufacturer there is no such thing as perfect, it is just paint. This has been known history since the early 1970's, it has not changed or been debunked. Another thing you apparently have no concept of, is the fact that what regs say is not always what happens in the field. Even in nasi germany, hisler wanted the 50mm L60 on the pnzrIII but was over ridden by the armaments ministry, and then again when hisler ordered the Porsche tiger into production and the armament mister picked the Henschel tiger. This happened a lot, in all armies. Your a talented modeler, but stop being a rivet counter with fake history.
@@Panzermeister36 Made up data does not change 50 years of knowledge and talking with people that lived then and knew what it was like in the field. not to mention my own experiences. This is going to shock you but paint was not that important, other than being there. Nobody cared about the shade. And the Germans painted their own tanks in the field. So did everyone else, with what ever they had, how ever they could. And yes, many Tiger tanks were gray.
