My passion is 1/35th scale armour. I will share with you Weathering Tutorials, Post-Build Reviews, Technique Demonstrations, Tips and Tricks, and more. Subject requests are always welcome - tell me what you want to see!
If you have any "inspirational pictures" for like a diorama, etc., or would like to contact me, please email me at panzermeister36@gmail.com
I have never weathered a car before so this was very educational. I started to Model O scale, can you give me a list of what I need to purchase to start?
It's good to invest in a chisel blade for your hobby knife. You can use the flat surface to ride the turret and get a nice even cut without worrying about digging in too far like the #11 blade.
This brand of 3D clamps seems superior to the ones I purchased on Ebay. Mine have myriad attachment points , including on the fragile handle, along the sprue gates. This makes it a challenge to remove each clamp without causing any damage. So far , I have managed to remove only a third of them that are actually intact enough to use.
My favourite 3D printed clamps are the MJ Miniatures ones. They're not too hard to remove from the base plate and they're slightly oversized so you can actually fit a tool into them. Most, like T-REX, are too small. These Zavod 3D ones in the video are no longer available since Shapeways went bankrupt a few months ago.
Omg....You very adeptly manipulate those miniscule parts into their respective holes on the handles...You make it look so deceptively easy! I can't even SEE the holes or the protruding pins...no matter how I try I just can't put these damnable things together. So, I resort to just slicing off the pins and CA gluing them together, which is no easy task for me either. Love Your videos, anytime I assemble a kit I look for Your post build videos on the assemblies.
Panzermeister, I watch a lot of Your videos, which I find immensely helpful in my modeling endeavors. Can You PLEASE do a video on how to remove the printed 3d resin parts from the sprue gates? Especially those tiny tool clamps, which I have mangled and utterly destroyed in my attempts to remove them.
You need a sharp blade for sure. I'll cut the mounts under the handle first, as it is the most fragile part. Then I'll do the mounts under the base of the clamp. I use the MJ Miniatures clamps.
I notice tamiya is now putting then on edge or inside now...some firms do too...its a pain when on a detail...i do same as you use sharp blade as close as possible sand then recut and add some cement to tidy up
Always sand or file diagonally across the parts , as long as you keep file or sanding material flat to the part , it can not help but follow the shape of the piece. Barrels , boxes, figure seams , it works .. try it . I can do two part barrels with out bothering to look at it hardly , watching youtube etc . Hard to go wrong . M
I would love it if model companies would actually take the time to build up a pre production run kit and iron out all the issues before flooding the market. I have never once in my lifetime of building models ever seen a company say "Oops sorry about that, we'll fix it."
It is incredibly rare to have a model corrected like that. Usually it is just wrong and we have to deal with it... And there's people out there who know how it should have been made properly who will help for free. Companies just don't ask for feedback. Now some exceptions are the Kanonenjagdpanzer from Das Werk and the Leclerc 21 from Tiger-Model. These were both essentially held up upon initial announcement to correct issues and now they are great!
Very useful tips. I always tend to go a little too far on removal efforts and end up with divots or low spots. Now I have a better idea how to avoid that.
My finger is squishy so it just absorbs the blade and doesn't get cut. I do not use much force when cutting the plastic and a fresh blade won't slip beyond my control.
Hey panzer Meister, awesome vid! I use a razor saw on small and fragile parts to remove from sprue, cuts down on the stress to the part. Happy modelling everyone!
Some good tips! 👍 I use all kinds of tools for sanding, both purchased and hand made. For tiny parts like the grab handles, I'll wedge them between 2 small pieces of wood so that only the sprue gate is showing. Then simply file until almost flush and finish off with a small file. 👍
Good tips Panzermeister. As has been mentioned below, a good pair of single cutting blade snips is highly recommended. Re plastic grab handles: if at all possible I will glue them in place and then gently clean up the sprue gate. Much easier to hold the hull/turret structure than the handle by itself. As mentioned in the video, sand along the handle not across it. If they have bad mold parting seams I just make new wire ones.
Think before you chop is the only thing I’d add. Working on this crappy Miniart kit and with the bad placed fret points and flash, you might be cutting into or off a part of the part. And dooooont cut too close to the actual part unless you know the plastic happens to be just right, or you will inevitably get one of the indentations we all hate😂
Gates right on the ends of the teeth of Sherman drive sprockets make me say WHY?! Same thing with putting them right on the rim of WW2 German helmets. I for sure don't think some of these people that create the tooling have ever built a kit, or at least very few.
@Panzermeister36 in the ( I Don't Recommend the Hobbyboss ZSD-89 APC in 1:35 Scale: Post-Build Review (ZBD-89 modification) : This video is for the 3 people who care about Chinese armour, I don't know who cares about it. also @Panzermeister36 : Builds another Chinese IFV😂😂 Btw, I am one of those three people 🙋♂
I love Takom kits but find their sprue gates are quite a challenge. I do enjoy using the Flexi file (like a bow) for rounded parts, especially barrels .Very helpful video Evan.
I use all your techniques, although i use the knife and carve away more parts of the sprue generally and just finish with a file or sanding stick. I also use two Tamiya flat chisels (1mm and 2mm I think) a fair bit. There is only one difference: for the technique you show on the turret weld seam, i use a wide radius rounded knife blade (No.20) instead of a flat to avoid scratching the turret face.
Today's video is nothing groundbreaking; rather we are looking at some tips I have aimed at newer modelers. If you have any tips on this topic, I would love to hear them in the comments section!
This is a good and easy tutorial. Actually, it's a problem we often have to face. It also might be easy to fix the weld seam, but I am so sad the loss of beautiful armor surfaces by sprue gates. I'd like to know if there is something better to do about this. 😀
well done vid with good tips, I like building on trays too and using files for shaping. I have a tiny set for small parts and also got this crazy chisel scraper called "night cutter" from Japan. Those guys have a good sense of humor it turns out. Cheers
Hello i use jeweler files as well. I have a set of six and set 12 files. The smaller set are german made and old than me, im 64yo. Love my files, round, oval and flat use almost exclusively but i do use variouse grits of sanding sponges and sand paper. One i was thinking about while watching your video. Is nice quality pair of cutters. For years i just used a cheap pair of cutters. After watching some video of gundam builds i bought a pair of tamiya cutters these are double bladed but i also got for christmas a pair of single blade cutters. Ive seen guys cut a part of the spur with quality cutters, the cut is so clean with no nub from the spur gate only a little dofference in color of the plastic. Its amazing what some can do assembling and painting of scale models.
My grandfather was a tool and die maker for Remington Arms in the early 20th Century. I have dozens of his little files he used back in the day. Not only are they great for model making, they’re a wonderful remembrance of him.
@georgelush1998 That's cool. I have a leather bomber type jacket that says Remington arms and the log, UT embodied. I bought back in the mid 80's, don't remember where. Never seen another like it.
I prefer a file for the initial clean up then finish with a sanding sponge. I have many different files but the one I really like and use almost always, is the flat one in Tamiya’s basic file set. Glass files don’t seem to work for me. Number one choice for me, a file. Thanks for the tips……
Thanks for the video Panz.36. Even with the disturbing opening of the roadwheel almost being eaten by the floor/carpet or worst-case scenario, my shirt.🙄
