It is 3M graphite powder. It is used to help identify high or low spots while block sanding. If the powder remains on the surface when blocking it tells you there is a low spot because your block isn't allowing your paper to hit it, so you know that you need to continue leveling the area. It can also be used to help when switching to a higher grit. if you apply it over 320 scratches and you want to refine up to 500-600, you will know the 320 is gone once the guide coats off.
You can also use a contrasting colored paint in place of graphite powder. It is called a guide coat, graphite powder is just the type of guide coat used here.
@BanielDrown I dont know what to say, its actually my sister-in-laws car I did about 4-5 years ago. I'd seen it a few months ago and its holding up perfect, has the production style orange peel...looks factory, not sure what else you could ask for.....I am a lazy masker..lol, give you that.
@cgrobe21 the black powder is called guide coat. autobody painters use it on primer so they can reveal the high spots in the primer so they can wet sand it visually with out having to feel it. it saves time.
An aerosol can won't work very well unless it's a two part can. 1 part cans are different and they will fade. Any 2 part clear will work. Every product has flash time which is specified on it's product data sheet, that's the length of time you need to wait in between coats. Most things are 5-15 minutes.
Good job guy. Not entirely sure why anyone would have a problem with this process. It's not like your working on a Lamborghini or something, but you know, haters gonna hate.
Sorry brother. 120-180 block sanding body filler. 320-400 when block sanding primer, finish in P600 grit. Paint was 2:1 bascoat:reducer and I think that clear was 4:1. I didn't get any on that job so I guess not, just need to move faster if you spray close.
Jimmo never mind I saw that you covered this in part 2 of this video. yea boyeee. i am going to wet sand the rest of the panel for the clear coat. Thanks.
Hi there. I saw a car paint (acrylic enamel) on the internet (and I like it for my car). I was wondering what else would I need to buy (primer?, clear coat?). I would appreciate if you can give some orientation. I would probably by the materials and then have someone prepare and paint the car for me. I appreciate your videos and help.
@jimmo4life Arent you suppose to put like, 2 to 3 coats of primer on instead of feathering it after sanding? Thats what I was taught. And what is feathering and why is it important or neccessary? Im just asking.
I need to paint just my car hood. I found some paint in a spray can at kragens made for paint touchups. Would I get decent results if I used the spray can after I sand the whole hood and primer it?
@GatvesDesniai I don't know what to tell ya, it's all done by the paint manufacturers recommendations. They'll guarantee it done that way, haven't noticed any sinking on the edges brother. Yes the skit angle...lol, I think I was more just trying to avoid hitting the bumper, maybe would have been better to just ripped er off. I walk by this car every day and every youtube comment typically causes me to re-inspect the quarter and blow-in I've done on the front. They are holding up great!
First pass blocking primer should be 150 -180 dry. Using too fine of paper will roll right over the waves instead of cutting them level. After first pass re-prime if necessary and then finish sand w/400-600 wet.
Best thing to do for these types of dents is use a little 3" angle grinder with a 36 grit disk to cut the paint away from the shallow part of the dent. Then, use a little 3" 180 DA to scuff the paint around the outer part of the dent being careful to only scuff the paint , not to feather the paint. Then apply the bondo and read its transparency to level being careful to make quick sharp cuts using green 80 grit paper, not that yellow 80 paper you are using. Its way to course for a small dent. :)
so you dropped the bumper first right just to clarify. and you first applied the body filler then sanded it with p80, after p80 and then block filler and then p80 again followed by p180 and last 200
Yo i am blending just a part of my panel with new basecoat. but I want to clearcoat the whole entire panel after painting. Can i just sand the entire rest of the panel with 2000 grit so it is ready to accept clearcoat or is that not good enough prep?
Leonardo Rivera interesting points ,if anyone else wants to uncover how to spray paint a car at home try Cranstirk Pro Spray Channel ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some amazing things about it and my mate got amazing success with it.
one question. if you dont have a how you call it a thing to "bake" a car on 160 degrees what can you do? I would like to paint my olda car but just have a garage:) Thank you
scuff the area with 180, bondo, use small piece of green 80 file paper on a small paint stick to knock the top of the bondo while it is still a little bit wet, let it dry, block with 80 using stick , guide coat, block with 180 using a stick, scuff area using a da with 400 3 inches past your 180 scratches, prime, guide coat, block with 240 grit on a stick, guide coat, block with 400 wet using a larger block, guide coat, wet 600 by hand with a sharp stiff piece of paper
+Jesus was a carpenter "P" refers to "Particle". As in the size of particles embedded into the paper. It's a European standard (FEPA). P Grade sandpaper is held to a higher standard with regard to the deviation in size of the particles. So it's preferred for things like automotive refinishing, where consistency is essential.
Jimmo you know better You got the people thinking that you are not professional they need to watch other vids of you but sometimes you do slack on the vids. Come on show us the right way are I will have to put a vid up LOL
Air pressure extremely high. Shouldn't have to spray primer through a gravity fed gun at 40psi. Haha. That is why you are having to waste time with masking around the body work and sanding overspray. Turn down your pressure and never have to do those two steps again.
Nobody listen to to what 500 horses says apparently he doesn’t know shit. Overspray will carry a long way and get all over the car. And spraying with too low air pressure you don’t get the correct atomization and the primer will be so heavy and textured you will spend more time sanding and cleaning the car you just fucking ruined
dude i just laughed my fucking ass off when i saw what he did in the video after reading ur comment!!! hahaha damn u made me laugh hard. thumbs up for that one!!!
How long time i must wait for apply clear coat from the base coat? And i have notice the cars with red color is faded much easier than the other colors why is this happens? thank you!
