How to pass a knot when abseiling / rappelling and lowering - Climbing how to with a rescue slant...

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So you've got a damaged rope, or you've joined two for a loooooong abseil and have got a knot in your rope, how do you lower or abseil past it? Watch the video and find out!
Even more than most videos, these are set pieces that may well need some shuffling around to fit the particular situation.
Please do fire away with any questions...
Kit in this video:
Beal Joker rope amzn.to/3bR1u9w
ATC Guide amzn.to/2zGTjOP
DMM Boa amzn.to/3aWwt2P
DMM Phantom amzn.to/3dbaN4x
DMM 8mm slings amzn.to/2Wkreo3
Shot on a Sony A6500 amzn.to/3dafMCz
With a cheapy microphone amzn.to/35nHqJn
On a Joby tripod amzn.to/3f8N0nu
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Опубликовано:

25 апр 2020

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Комментарии : 24

@JBMountainSkills 4 года назад

Let us know how you get on practicing this one!

@ryanmoore688 10 месяцев назад

I I had trouble with this one, while completely hanging just off the French prusik I was unable to take the tension off it to weight my grigri, almost got stuck hanging on a rope in a tree for a while 🤣, then tried the French prusik again with 5 wraps, 10 wraps it either wouldn't hold my weight or it would hold and not slip any to help weigh the grigri, I tried another type of prusik and failed again. Wondering if it's the material that my rope or the material I'm using for prusiks

@eloimauri6235 3 года назад

I stumbled upon this channel during lockdown here in Barcelona, Spain. Since then I've been binge watching lots of videos, I find them super chilled and entertaining. Is it weird that I enjoy watching videos that teach techniques that I already know? I find this dude so genuine and I really enjoy his British accent haha, keep up the content coming!

@JBMountainSkills 3 года назад

Glad you've been enjoying them :)

@marcushill78 2 года назад

I remember learning how to do this in desperation after abseiling off an overhang to find a knot joining another rope. Whilst hanging in space for a while and panicking somewhat I got myself sorted out. I always carry prussiks! Great videos!

@dacxx1424 3 года назад

Hi, thanks for a great video. I'm a climber of very modest abilities, but an experienced ski mountaineer and have lowered people past knots a few times when descending steep slopes & couloirs, this is becoming more common due to glacial retreat and the skills you've shown are a pretty key requirement these days. We tend to travel light so a couple of 30m ropes and no belay devices is a pretty common arrangement so prussiks, slings, krabs are a pretty common set of kit but not much else. Thanks again and keep up the good work. Dan

@jimcross730 4 года назад

Cheers man, I've abseiled past a knot before but never lowered anyone. First I've seen this done so keen to get out and try it in the garage 👍

@JBMountainSkills 4 года назад

Good luck!

@TheUrbanhat 2 года назад

Watching this 2 years after you've posted, so hope your still tracking questions. That bit when you need to take off your belay device and clip it below the marginal rope: cant you thread another strand from below into the other eye of the belay plate? Since your only rappelling on a single strand, i'd assume thats possible, and would never only be hanging on just the prusik. Will try it out, but let me know if you think that makes sense

@matthewlloyd2055 2 года назад

Great video. Thank you. A minor thing, but clipping the clutch prussic into the powerpoint "metal on metal" works here, but when the prussic is loaded opening the HMS to take the rope out of it may be tricky on some HMS karabiners because often under bodyweight the carabiner will go deform into the gate and stop it opening. I imagine this isn't an issue with a chunky Boa but something more light weight may well prevent you from opening the gate going in direct with the french prussic. Hope this makes sense! thoughts?

@jordanlewis3790 2 года назад

why not put the part of the rope below the knot through the belay plate before undoing the part above the knot. you have two sides to the belay plate, why not use them?

@tomtom4405 3 года назад

I watched "The Prophet" on Amazon prime about Leo Houlding's El Cap route. Cracking film!! If you missed it, that's a good lockdown film to watch Edit: not sure if this adapts to climbing but in caving SRT and back in the days I did access work if I found a damaged section I'd tie it out with *2* alpine butterflies so there was a tied out loop of damage and then again in same area tie all that out in another butterfly so you have 2 loops like number 8 on side of rope. Outer loop is damage and inner one you can clip for backup when ascending/descending the rope. Do you think that translates to rock climbing?

@JBMountainSkills 3 года назад

I don't think I've seen Prophet, I'll check it out, thanks! It does indeed translate, it's a nice way of solving the problem :)

@tomtom4405 3 года назад

@@JBMountainSkills lots of unrelated films with same title so search Amazon for "Leo Houlding". Worth a watch!!

@bonefishboards 3 года назад

Good skill to have on wall routes. Don't be that German guy that tried to manhandle his way around a knot on descent from fixing lines on Aquarian Wall in the 80s. Had to help on Yosemite SAR with that one. Gruesome.

@GavynPendleton 3 года назад

Thoughts on ways to pass a knot on one side of a two rope rappel? Think coming back down a multi pitch route with a damaged rope. And preferably a way to do it without the extra prussik.

@GavynPendleton 3 года назад

The best I can think is using a knot to block the atc after reattaching it below the tied off section.

@jimcross730 4 года назад

What is the make of the sling you use for your prusik?

@JBMountainSkills 4 года назад

Mine are Simond ones from Decathlon but I think they're out of stock. I know some friends who use these which are the same idea: shop.epictv.com/en/sewn-slings/beal/jammy?sku=BEAS18_SLIJAM_35?shop.epictv.com/en/sewn-slings/beal/jammy?sku=BEAS17_SLINGJMY_60?code=a8f2a4

@jimcross730 4 года назад

Cheers.

@fabianklappacher6909 3 года назад

there is an easy trick to lower past a knot without setting up a second HMS. I personally learnd it in the Austrian Army but here is ah shot clip of someone else

@fabianklappacher6909 3 года назад

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ujr1OFTUM5k.html

@petrpacas 3 года назад

Hmm, have you tried it under full load? Imagine your partner is hanging in space at the point where you need to pull the knot through... Also, have you tried to pull through different types of knots (both joined ropes and tied off damaged ropes)?