How to Pick the BEST Portable Power Station for YOU *Unsponsored* 

Thank you! Very sincerely appreciated!

Brilliant idea 💡

That used to be known as theft.

@@jamescollinson2456 not if you ask permission

That's why pubs remove outlets near tables

I'd opt more for a Starbucks or coffee shop with a laptop since you wont be the only one or out of place

Lol I have 3 now but I use them all I still need to buy panels tho

1500-1800 will do it all. W/ 400 watt panel total

I have two!😄

Lol

Any recommendations for overnight gaming?

Thank you for the kind words 🙏. Very sincerely appreciated.

The two of you are both profoundly inspirational. This is my first week in my new home, 2007 Toyota Highlander (still building out the camper). Very grateful for this video, but one question: Unfortunately I am mentally disabled and have been unable to earn income for the passed 6 months. Due to complications with my insurance I was unable to collect any new benefits- so this adventure is a dream but also happening out of necessity (cannot afford a new lease+credit has been demolished). With about $40 left in my pocket Im staying on BLM land (luckily have more than enough gear and supplies for 2-weeks). If you had to redo the video to state the best possible powet station solution- while on the tightest of budgets, which would you recommend (and why, if you will 😅)?? Thank you for your kindness in sharing your wisdom. Will follow up when I release my channel! 🕊️🤗

I really like the Pecron brand. However, now is the time to catch a deal with all of the black Friday sales this month. . I’m sure there are many sales on the major brands.

I COMMEND YOU ON YOUR BRAVERY BUT I HAVE A QUESTION: WHAT ON EARTH ARE YOU GOING TO DO WHEN THERE IS NO FUEL FOR YOUR TRAVEL HOME? ARE YOU JUST GOING TO PARK IT SOMEWHERE AND LIVE OFF THE SUN? THANKS

@@wheepingwillow24u17 Always have backups. There are no emergenies for those who are prepared.

Great find! I also recently discovered the convenience of portable power stations for my own outdoor activities. It's amazing how they're becoming a reliable alternative to gas generators. Thanks for the insightful video, definitely subscribing for more useful content!

Can you imagine if people simply put appliances on a solar-fed backup battery instead of grid? Would be a great thing. I have Solar PV for the whole house, grid-tied. Sure, it cost tens of thousands and balances out the costs by using net-metering. But for those who cannot take a tax credit or just want to lower some of their grid costs, doing a small micro-grid with a small battery and a few modules would be great to see for sustainability. As long as the battery is high cycle count using LFP.

Hi, are those models that you mentioned are they all Ecoflow solar battery systems. We have been thinking of getting an Ecoflow, the biggest model with an extra battery pack, but I am not convinced that they would be sufficient for any long term power blackout, especially during the winter months when there is not much sunlight. Interested to know your thoughts please. I realise that it all depends on what your power usage is on a daily basis.

Great point. Part of the reason I bought what I bought was the units solar charging capacity.

Just build a power bank , you can get cheap lithium for like 275$/ per 100 amp. Whatever an eco flow can give you build for 1/4 the price by just watching a few RU-vid’s. Easier then you think

@@ClarkyMalarky I don't understand how to do the wiring and all the parts I need. I've watched several videos on doing it, but I'm not an electrician and don't understand all the details to do my own build. And I don't have power tools to build setups to hold the parts. If I could figure it out, I would set up Power Queen batteries to run my freezers but I don't understand how to get the solar into the batteries.

Thanks so much for the kind words! :) Sincerely appreciated!

I'm like you and want to run those items. How is the Pecon going?

I am very happy with it. So I bought a second one as well. @@lisalee2885

sounds like I have no hope of understanding how to get the best performance since that is Greek to me

First time watching. I did enjoyed the info, although I didn't really understand all of it. I probably need a class for dummies. Lol Electrical stuff is a tuff one for me.

​@@lbrown6859me too

Thank you sir for the kind words! Sincerely appreciated. And in between reviews, I'm hoping to "how to find the right solar panel for your power station " video out shortly. Hopefully that will be similarly helpful?

@@ReeWrayOutdoors I'd find that extremely helpful. Thanks!

Yeah in my review videos, I do try to also provide No Load Draw information as well...but in terms of capacity/runtime estimates, that idle consumption is (mostly) baked-in in that usable capacity estimate. Generally, I think about the best you can do is slight overestimate power consumption and underestimate usable capacity due to the inherent variability in power consumption, especially as relates to things like fridges that are affected by ambient temps, set points, insulation and how fully stocked you keep it. I feel like all of those things have the potential to have a larger impact on runtime than the idle consumption in most cases. My 2 cents, for what it's worth.

@ReeWrayOutdoors Interesting info. Kinda new to the whole solar generator scene. Actually did a ton of research and just ordered a Bluetti AC500 with 2 B300S batteries to replace my dual Honda EU2200i generators for my mobile car detailing setup. On an average day (using a Kill-A-Watt meter) I use about 3 to 4kW. Figuring I should have about 5kW usuable capacity out of those batteries, I was a little concerned about the idle consumption for my heavy days. I decided that I'm going to put 500W of solar to compensate. Your comment makes me feel a little better about my math. Can't wait to hook this system up. A little bit of a weight penalty compared to the gennys but the silence will be oh so nice. Especially considering my air compressor, vacuum and pressure washer are all high end, very quiet units. Thanks for the reply.

Actually there is a lake!

I still prefer to carry my Honda eu2200i along with my ecoflow Delta 2 to store the energy from my Honda for longer run time. A Honda eu2200i, along with an ecoflow Delta2, is the best combination for the weekend

Excellent point! I do typically try to point out the ambient temperature my numbers were recorded at when I cite them...especially for things like DC fridges. But the CPAP didn't occur to me. :P

@@ReeWrayOutdoors Even EV vehicles have big energy-use differences. An EV car below 20*F will give a real range of 50-60% of summer range. Also, in hot weather if using AC in a vehicle and battery is keeping itself cool, range is also lost. It is so much like human factors - where we like 68-72*F. So do EVs.

@johnmcvicker6728 yeah I watched an interesting video on the impact of running A/C on EV range. Seems that the typical impact (if there is one that's typical) is probably only between 3 to 7% of range...depending on all the obvious variables.

@@ReeWrayOutdoors Resistive heating - much worse on range vs A.C. in summer. I have a 2011 Volt - newer EVs use heat pumps and reduce range-loss somewhat. But ambient temps alone take away capacity of Li-Ion NCM and LFP battery systems. If you want to geek out - and if you live near Michigan, check into the dual trade-show 'The Battery Show" and "The EV Tech Expo" in mid-Sept in Novi Michigan.

I looking for something to charge 2 cpaps with humidifiers. Help?

It would have to be very small, as heaters drain one quicker than the wattage would suggest.

@@vonheise I have a Bluetti 70S. It will power my 460 watt electric heater for ~ 40 minutes. If the outside temperature is ~ 40°F, it will keep the interior of my vehicle at least 75°F. For longer run times, I have added a 12 volt, 100 amp/hour LiFeP04 battery to the Bluetti. That will extend the time to ~ 1.5 hours.

It is, and has been reading our minds. For a long time now✨

Just live on a river and build a turbine. 24 hour power.

Gasoline will only last around three months when stored. If the grid shuts down you won't be able to buy gas as electricity powers the pumps.

excellent!!!

​@@lawrencebeck47773 to 6 if untreated

​@@lawrencebeck4777wood gasifier

Agreed. A friendly suggestion would be to add chapter markings to make finding specific discussion points easier.

My decision boils down to solar input and how long each day can I depend upon it. I live in the woods and at best i have 3 to 4 hours of sun available with little or no shade. Winter time the sun is below the top of my south facing trees, the good news being no leaves after mid November. If I can recharge a 2560 wH battery in a single day, it be worth it.

​@SnittyKittys So, which one are you going to or have already purchased?

@@hoze11959 I have built one larger power station, two smaller ones, numerous DIY batteries, and recently installed a complete 24v system, with 8,000wh of battery capacity and a 1,500w solar array.

Good Info I had the same experience with some of mine. Also I use my power stations alot and already notice the reduced 20 percent capacity on my older batteries.

With all that being said do you have any specific recommendations

@@davidparnell6272 Use power stations as a convenience, in truly portable applications such as in a camper or vehicle. But don't use power stations to try to run a house or large RV or in any situation where you might desire to expand the system over time. That's the lesson. Large power stations are mostly a waste of money and large power stations with expansion batteries are definitely a waste of money. For larger systems....for running a house or an RV or any large or fixed installation, use a discrete solution. That means buy the LFP batteries, charge controllers for the solar, inverters for the AC, along with appropriate cabling, fusing, and breakers, and learn how to wire them together safely. (Battery packs with built-in BMSs can be purchased easily these days, there is no need for people to build batteries from raw cells these days). You want maximum flexibility and maximum maintainability, so it is best to have redundancy. Noah's ark style. At least two battery packs (put in parallel, 48VDC recommended), two solar panel strings each going into a charge controller (two charge controllers), and two inverters (inverters would be discrete, running different loads, their outputs are not wired together and can't be anyway). For whole-house full residential-sized systems, hybrid inverters such as a Sol-Ark are also an option, but if you go this route you still want at least two and the very best ones can be cost prohibitive. So YMMV. You have to go with a hybrid inverter if you want grid backup. But for off-grid the discrete options are usually far less expensive. -- Now, being able to build these systems does require doing your home-work and knowing enough not to electrocute yourself, but otherwise it is pretty basic. And to be perfectly honest, you need the same knowledge even with the power-station route to avoid doing something truly dangerous with the power stations. * Proper fusing. Match fusing to maximum possible valid load + 25%. And no greater than what the cables/wires can handle. * Proper use of DC breakers. Max breakers to maximum possible load or slightly higher. And no greater than what the cables/wires can handle. (Note: Fusing is typically sized higher than breakers. You only want fuses to blow if something really goes wrong). * Proper cable sizes. Depends on amperage. 48VDC allows using smaller wires and cables. For example, a 2 gauge main battery cable is fine if you never pull more than 100A (4.8kW at 48VDC). Most bus distribution wiring can be 10 gauge with 20-30A breakers, etc. Always check ampicity. The battery box should be appropriately fused and have its own master breaker. Always use DC breakers for DC wiring and don't ignore any polarity markings. It should be noted that just because the batteries might have far greater current carrying capabilities... for example, two EG4 rack-mounts in parallel can do 200A continuous and 600A burst. That does NOT mean you size breakers and fuses to that capability. You always size breakers and fuses to the maximum possible real load that is less than the wiring and battery limits, NOT to the maximum capaiblities of the batteries. * Solar panels must be sized for the charge controllers and battery voltage. I recommend the Victron Smart MPPT 100/20. The operating solar voltage would have to be 60V or higher to properly run a 48VDC battery system. This typically means, for example, three 12/24V panels (20V+ operating voltage per panel) in series or two residential panels (30V+ operating voltage per panel) in series. The open-circuit voltage of the panels in series must of course be less than the maximum voltage specification of the charge controller. In the case of a Victron 100/20, that would be 100V. * Redundancy is always good because it makes the system robust and gives you options when things break in the field. So, for example, 6 x 100W panels in two strings of 3 panels each, each string going into a discrete charge controller.

@@davidparnell6272 I was thinking the same, "who's the winner?" lol

Hello Junkzern Could you please let me know what you recommend for a house fridge, microwave, TV Washing machine. I was thinking about purchasing the delta pro 2 possibly with back up battery. I'm in Australia so Bluetti is more expensive If you have any information this would be extremely appreciated Thank you

Glad it was helpful!

Why?

@@TJF13 Lithium Ion batteries

​@@Cue881new ones are lifepo