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Awesome. I did what he said and did not even need a sledge hammer. I replace the steel pipe with 1 inch PVC and it still worked. Needed wires for a very souped up mailbox with IP camera, light, speaker, WiFi and switches. (I could move in)
Besides the rigid electrical conduit coupling issue, here are a few additional corrections/additions to information in the video. You CAN run low voltage wires in the same conduit as higher voltage. The electrical code simply requires that the insulation on the lower-voltage wires to be rated high enough to be higher than the voltage of the higher voltage wires. However be mindful of inductive coupling noise between the two wires/cables too. It could be that the higher-voltage wires could induce enough noise into the lower-voltage wires to disrupt whatever they are being used for. If this turns out to be a problem, replace the low voltage wires/cable with a shielded cable and ground one end of the shield. And I would use a cap on the "drilling-end" of the pipes with a 1/8-1/4" or so hole to put a little spray power into the drilling end. Overall a great video!
I used this technique and it worked very well. My only revision was to extend the sledgehammer hit point by 12 inches after water insertion point (after I missed with sledgehammer and broke a water insertion point connector and had to buy new parts).
For light sandy soil like in Florida this is a great idea! ... I have lived there. But try that in Georgia with hard clay - especially during a hot summer and you will have to hit the plug/T so hard it will tear up the pipe fittings.
For the pipe under the driveway deal dig your hole on either side of your driveway and allow an extra depth of 4 in to 6 in to put other a piece of a 4x4 in the hole to hold your pipe up off the ground or 4x6 whichever your preference is I like to use a pipe large enough in diameter so that whatever pipe I am putting under the driveway can pass through if it's a small walkway I can make the hole and then pull the pipe out and put the actual pipe I'm trying to feed through the whole end afterwards but if it's going under a large driveway I generally keep the pipe in place as a sheath and support for the pipe I'm placing in there there are a couple different methods I use depending on the compaction and material that the pipe must pass through under the driveway the harder the dirt is I have a large handheld auger that is geared extremely low and I put a t-bit in it cut a slot at the end of the pipe that I am going to have my auger powering on that end and I have a home built bit that accepts half inch up to 2 in threads for gas pipe the bit is the same but I have adapter caps to fit on the backside like I said if the soil is very hard I auger my sheath pipe if it is a small walkway generally I do the exact same setup procedure by digging a hole on either side one being the entrance point of where my sheath pipe is going and the other being the exit point where I want the pipe to come out on the other side of the walkway allow the depth to be four to six inches deep with depending on what block of wood I used to set my iPhone and use a sledgehammer with a cap on the end I am hitting it with and drive the pipe underneath once I have the pipe it exposed on the finished side I take the cap off of my side and use a rod to push the dirt plug out the other side then feed my pipe in whether it be water electrical or for irrigation purposes and bury my line back once completed
Those are rigid conduit couplings They are schedule 40,the same size as the conduit. EMT (electro mechanical tubing) couplings are made of cast pot metal and have a set screw on both ends, perpendicular to the long axis of the fitting.
Done this same thing many a time, only difference is using PVC. We usually would dig down much further, 2 to 3 feet on each side, that way we're well under anything placed for the driveway. All you do is crank up the water flow, push the pipe in, pull the pipe back, push it in some more until viola - you hear water gushing in the hole you dug on the other side. Though not easy, I've even done this through Georgia clay before.
for people going to buy parts, those are NOT EMT couplings. they are RIGID conduit couplings and probably galvanized plumbing pipes, look like 3/4". electrical conduit is standard at 10' lengths. emt couplings have either set screws or compression fittings. this is a threaded coupling for the heavier wall rigid conduit. I might add this works ok in sandy soil. I'm guessing these folks are in Florida or Michigan with all the sandy soil. It will not work in PA with all the clay, rocks. Nice for sandy soil though.
I think you addressed a crowd that knows what they're talking about here. They know tools, procedure and problems that surface when basic principles are compromised.
