Great job Robin, I’ve done the 3rd window with the training and the plasterer has started this week and has been commenting on how good the boarding and walls are.
That’s what I love about your videos and your work Robin, you explain in in such simple terms a d easy to follow then make it look so easy.... lol. Keep em coming! ;)
Hi robin I hope you and your family all are well sir I’m self build struggle each step but never stop and thanks to you guys who shared your valuable time and expertise doing jobs for others much appreciated sir 🙏🏻
be good to see your own methods of fitting velux windows robin. fitted a fair few and built a fair few roofs but ive changed a lot of how ive worked since watching your videos
You wouldn't use angle beads on the corners as there isnt a right angle.. they need stop beads, I did mine using the metal plaster bead tape but plasterer wasn't happy so I used the stop beads instead.
I have to disagree with “easy and fast” comment on the title, your correct on your measures but the top and bottom should always be square so the top and bottom can be measured direct from the window edges, then cut to size before once, “rough the sides in” as you said yes but not waste time fitting then removing the top and bottom, then cutting them both twice then re fitting, cut once, fit last, I’d like to see how you overcome cold bridging too? As no apparent vapour barrier visible, not foil backed plasterboard and the roof seems to be traditional cold roof construction?
@@tomsmith9048 your missing the point, if there is no insulation abutting the velux frame and gaps from the edge of the velux itself, the cold bridging on the ingoes will then heat loss around the ingoes, I always use insulated backed plasterboard now for this point exactly, what’s the point in doing the job 99% right and spending hundreds on insulation to lose heat from the velux edges? The u value of the timber is completely irrelevant in this situation, you could argue it’s ok the rest of the roof insulated, a little heat loss in the edge will be fine, and with no vapour control this I asked the roof construction, as with no air flow, and the lack of vapour barrier mould could be a potential.
@@jamesblair4709 of course u value is relevant it's what keeps it warm and if your insulation is at the underside of the rafter the air gap is at the top.of the rafter there's no need for a vapour barrier as there's so much airflow over the top of the insulation there's no time for condensation to settle hence the bigger the airflow the less of chance of anything settling
It’s how I do it. I always try to get the bottom reveal vertical. It looks really cool if you line it up exactly with the wall below. (Takes some figuring when you actually fit the velux) I also would have packed out behind the plasterboard with insulation or blown some foam around to prevent a cold spot
@@willber318 make sure you do. The top flashing is notorious for causing condensation if it’s not insulated. People tend to think the window is leaking but it’s nearly always because someone didn’t bother or didn’t know how important it was to insulate that wafer thin piece of tin.
@@SingleTrack66 I’ve put expanding foam around the frame but I think I’ll put som rock wool behind the plasterboard before I fix it. Hopefully that will be ok. I’m sure it will just end up wet though 🤷♂️
Good shout, some of the 25mm backed stuff would surely make a difference. Think you could end up losing the frame behind it by the time it’s beaded and skimmed ?
I luv it that you blow the dust away when you slice the plasterboard. That’s exactly what I do. There is too many dust particles throughout the building trade and it’s about minimising what you inhale. When the lights on it you realise just how much a plasterboard actually gives off
I would have deducted double the thickness of the board (25mm) off the overall length of the sides and fitted without removing the top and bottom. Good tip with marking the board though and a spot on job regardless.
I just use a tape for depth,,do longest opposites first, then just use a speed square to mark the angles. Squirt of foam adhesives bind and screw and they never move
Something I do with plasterboard that I rarely see others doing, after scoring and breaking I'll fold the board then run my rasp over both cut edges at once before separating my piece. Keeps your edges nice and true and saves having to knock off any lumps that might make the board a bit tight.
A splayed edge is great, but how do you do this while having 52.5 mm insulated plasterboard instead of the normal 12.5mm(which you seem to have)? The point at which one attaches the screws would be too far in surely?
I am pedantic with my roof window reveals, only perfect will do even if that means battening out on dimishing packers. Keen eyes will spot a wonky reveal from a mile away.
@@arselickerfc9316 possibly yeah,minimal. If the window hasn't been fitted perfectly even gaps all the way round then the angles can look odd and wonky. If I've fitted the window myself I know it'll be right but more often than not it's a roofer who'll drop them in and not quite take so much care.
I have fitted no end of velux windows and usually board top and bottom then sides, Definitely going to give your method a go next time looks great! Shame I didn't wach this 2 days ago, as I did 2 velux yesterday.
Not impressed. Looks smart and no doubt you're a great chippy, learnt some great tips from your vids. However, it should be insulated behind the reveals and as a bare minimum have vapour barrier, fully taped. This could fail you an air test on a new build.
@@fredrickwelch5678 Not that comes to mind. It will all depend on what insulation build-up you're using and there are a number of ways to tackle it. As some have said, you need to leave enough gap when installing the timbers for whatever insulation you use. Can be easier said than done on a retrofit. If in doubt, throw polythene and joint tape everywhere. Can't go wrong then.
That is some beautiful work. Question. Would you not pack out behind the plasterboard with some mineral wool or other insulation to maximise the thermal efficiency and prevent cold spots?
Great video but wondered why when you got the angle marked onto the offcut, why did you not just transfer the angle onto the 2 pieves you hadnt put up yet? Instead of taking down the pieces you already put up? That would also remove the need to cut around the timbers.
What doughnut put tapered edge of plasterboard on the external angle , put bead on, instant hump in plaster and beads look crap. unless its being dry lined , then no one cares what it looks like.
A splayed opening/reveal looks 10 times better than just square ones and will cast less shadow when the sun beams through. Its small details like this that will set the job aside from others. Nice job again. Cheers.😎
Hi Robin always impressed normally sorry to say not this time,standard plasterboard on reveals and cheeks absolute rubbish stick with the firecheck or sound check we always cut width 50 mm deaper then run the saw through the ceiling line this way the angle always follows the angle of the roof regardless we always SBR cut edge and fix beads with no crumbling.A bit surprised no insulation at edges ? Keep up the great work👍
Robin, surely if you had deducted 25mm from the length of the top and bottom pieces [2x12.5mm, assume], that would negate the second part of cutting them to length. The sides fitted, then the top and bottom would be the right size to fit. Or, install the sides first, then measure lengths of top and bottom.
@@saltychannel21 - Because this is not the US! As you may not have noticed, Robin is using the far easier way to take measurements - in metric. The boards are 9mm and 12.5mm in Europe and most other places!
@@thetessellater9163 im in the uk and have been a joiner/ builder for the last 25 years. I generally use inches as its usually easier to remember measurements when your not trying to remember numbers in the thousands. I sometimes use metric if its nearest to a round number but generally use inches as its more simple to remember measurements usually. Sometimes i use a mixture haha so it might be 87 inches and about 5mm. The only time i use metric is when fitting kitchen's as everything comes in metric sizes so its the only time when metric is the simplest option and even then i still revert back to imperial when cutting fillers and worktops. People i work with find it hilarious when i give them mixed measurements
I see you with different brand of drill quite often now, never know what youre going to run with when you bring out new content, im running makita mostly but hikoki seems to be showing up on more aussie construction sites
Just built a similar roof myself and the building inspector has had me put 100mm kingspan in between the rafters then 50mm kingspan over the rafters to stop heat transfer. It doesn’t look like you’ve had to do the same. Is there a reason for this or have I just got a jobsworth inspector. Good tip with the plasterboard.
Very nice Robin. Is that the same house where u did that beautiful deck? It seems to b where u hang your hat, your house. Also, those humongous front doors. And the swimming pool?
Has anyone got any tips or even contacts that could help me with retro fitting roof windows in a standing seem roof? Not had much luck with the manufacturers all the flashing instructions for standing seem show all the roof panels removed to one side. Looking for a way of doing it that’s not so dramatic. Cheers
Unfortunately it’s always a bit of a bigger job than intended in a standing seam roof, you’ll need to find a roofer that will do the external work to a high standard, the window itself is the same installation method, inc internal finishing, but the externals can need stripped back quite far depending on the roof makeup, always good to have the roofers on site when your installing the window. I’d strip out the inside and do the structural works first ready for the window to be dropped in, then have the roofers there the next day, have them strip out the necessary, and pop the window in, let them deal with the flashing and external while you have an easy shift installing plasterboard! Good luck
Beautiful, I actually prefer this over square reveals, makes the window look bigger, lets more light in (cant prove that one but corners are not in the way ☺), and breaks up all that square symetry everywhere.. Thank you for sharing.
Being a site carpenter I envy the work you lads do actually get to take care instead of having to smash it in against the clock want to go on my own but keep getting told not to by family as it’s too much of a risk
Hello Will. None of my business really, I’m a Spark who happens to really like Robin’s work. This is the age old problem, I’ve worked for some terrible companies who don’t care about the standard of work or the time you really need to do it well. If your work is of a good standard (I’m sure it is) don’t hesitate to go out on your own. So many of the trades I know, including myself, took the leap and never looked back. The feeling you have of doing a great job in the time you need outweighs the steady pay packet from a firm. After a while of being recommended, you’ll build up clients and the rates you charge will be much higher. The satisfaction and the higher rates of pay will change your working life and probably your private life too. Whatever you decide, I wish you well and maybe give it some serious thought. All the very best. Gerry.
@@gerryslater4297 cheers Gerry! Yeah I really want do nice work and stand back and look and be proud of what I have done just taking the leap I probably won’t look back it’s just taking the leap initially!
@@gerryslater4297 it’s really hard aswell my company is arguably one of the lowest payers for a big firm but they want a good standard of work and the two just don’t work
I think you’ve answered your own question my friend. In my situation, I’m getting the same money for 3 days a week on my own as I was for 5 on a firm. I may well be just lucky, but it’s a familiar story for lots of my trade mates. Again, best of luck, even if it goes a little wrong, at least you’ve given it a go.
