I tear every new pistol apart as soon as I pick them up from the FFL. I always find burrs on the trigger bars, among other places. It makes a huge difference! Great video!
Wow! Thanks for the Flitz love Ram!! 👍👍👀 We appreciate you! Next time you have a chance, try doing both operations with just the Flitz. It may surprise you! 😊 Keep up the great work!! #Flitzit
Thx. Glad i could do the product justice. Sounds good. I'm sure I'll be doing another video or two on tips for polishing other components. If you have any product ideas for me to test out let me know. I can be reached at ramjet1469@gmail.com
I've been detailing my own cars for 30+ years. I plan to do this process but am going to try a different final polish product I have called Dr. Beasley's Metal Coat that bonds to the metal. In auto-circles all the rage has been ceramic nano coatings, and Dr. Beasley's Metal Coat is one for metal surfaces. They add a ton of protection from etching, staining ETC. What they also do is add a lot of slickness. On paint water just beads off. I bet it's going to make the trigger feel amazing.
Thanks brother for the info. It does my heart good to see a black man doing a great job. Not one of those want to be gangsters with a mouth full of gold teeth trying to talk. Great job on the video keep up the good work and I will be looking out for your next video.
@@JettaManDesigns Great. I want to learn more about stuff like this. Still need to check out your older vids too. I only found your channel last night.
Just an awesome video, most of learning the tricks of doing builds came from you guys, this learning was achieved over several years and for that I'm grateful for you guys 🤘🤘
OK, I gotta ask, apart from a smooth as butter trigger pull when dry firing on the couch watching John Wick 2. How does this, did this, affect your groups shooting paper targets?
Good question. The short answer is that this alone will not improve your grouping. There are other fundamentals that you must master in order to improve your grouping. However, doing this, if used with a proper trigger pull, will help you to not only improve your grouping but with enough practice, will help you do it faster. Give it a try and get back to me. (The long answer). Now if you want to step up from shooting paper targets then you can decide to do this modification and step your game up and start ringing steel on the move or in competitions. There's a reason the higher tier guns have buttery smooth triggers. Trust me, their bars are worked to death. In an emergency situation your target isn't gonna stand still while you shoot them. This modification improves the trigger grittyness often found in glock triggers (and clones using glock OEM parts). It also helps on the reset. You can take a step further and change the connector and vastly lighten the trigger pull (the 10 trigger pull average on my EDC is 3lb to 4lbs but my competion builds are 2lb to 3lbs. However, if you're rocking a Glock with a 5lb to 6lb trigger pull and only getting to the range once or twice a year to shoot paper targets and you feel thats all the training you need to successfully protect your life and the ones you love, then again, this is not the mod for you. But I do suggest you give it a try and let me know how it turns out. (just my 2 cents) JettaMan OUT!
Question. How you attach the flex shaft to the dremel workstation? You just hanging it or in the mount? (I’m having issues finding how to install in the mount!) haha good video!
That is a very good question and the answer is "no it does not". If done correctly it will remove any microscopic burrs from machining and remove any slop normally felt in glock OEM triggers. I am just one of many builders that do this (I just did another today). If you need a 2nd opinion check out Johnny Glocks channel and many others. He also polishes all metal parts in the fire control group as I do (connector, springs, extractor, ejector etc etc). The firing pin (with exception to the very tip) can also be polished for smoother action. For the record, the Glock company does not suggest removing the coating. This is done as an enhancement/modification for personal use.
@@JettaManDesigns Thank you very much I really appreciate the information I learned so much today from you and your video and looking forward to the many more , God bless
That is a very good question. In the case of polishing I do not. The polishing of the trigger bar, connector and springs are more about creating a smoother trigger pull (getting rid of the gritty feel) rather than reducing the weight. Although I'm sure there is a difference other than a silky smooth pull in the end. I do however check the weight because I'm changing the shoe as well as polishing. I have done this on several builds to include my EDC and installed a Ranger Proof shoe (see the Copperhead build video). While the lightened trigger pull has more to do with the upgraded trigger shoe (avg 5lbs down to avg 3.5lbs) the smooth pull is certainly better with a polished bar and connector than out of the box OEM. Thanks for the question/comment and thx for watching.
If you polish correctly and dont remove more material than necessary it will likely have a small impact on trigger pull. In my experience about half a pound.
@@SushiArmageddon I agree. And polishing shouldn't remove any metal material other than little burrs you can feel but can't see. No abrasives should ever be used. If someone is then they really need to see this video. Thanks for watching.
3000 grit wet sanding works really well too and is a slightly faster process than actual polishing. I usually start at 2500 grit and work my way up to 4000-5000 grit for that mirror smooth finish. Oils also works in place or water for wet sanding.
@@Iceflame38polishing is fine if you know what youre doing. The biggest risk is removing too much material or inadvertently changing the shape of a part. When metal is removed through polishing it is often black in color. This holds true when I am using whetstones to sharpen knives etc.
