I'll be streaming how to support/clean up prints just like in this video, and even painting some of the prints this coming Wednesday (June 2nd) on my twitch for those who have questions, or just wanna hang out :) www.twitch.tv/rybonator
Fun fact: when you're alcohol gets cloudy you can put it in a clear bottle with a cap, put that on the window sill for a few days, then strain it and you have clean alcohol again.
I hope you all find this helpful and informative :) I'm not typically a sci-fi tabletop person, but I am 1000% gonna find a reason for there to be a gatling gun trooper in my Fantasy D&D setting!
A few notes, and considerations for those who are new; 1) Find a good reddit or Facebook group specific to your printer make/model. Every printer has its own weird things, and these groups can help a lot. This is doubly true for larger printers like the Saturn where traditional supports and things just don't work like you would expect. 2) Consider using stronger chemicals than alcohol. I started printing resin mid-pandemic where getting good quality iso alcohol was essentially impossible to get, so I tried a bunch of different things from the hardware store and settled on Acetone. Yes, it is smelly, but the fumes are not toxic, and it is nice and strong where it will literally pull the uncured resin from your print. No more brushing required. I keep 2 paint cans of the stuff, one dirty to get the bulk off, and one cleaner one to get off the remaining lit. Swish it around for ~15-30 sec, then another 15 sec in the cleaner pot, and done! The acetone evaporates in seconds, and other than the smell does a better job faster, and I highly encourage people to try it. When the 'clean' pot starts to get noticeably cloudy, add it to the dirty pot, and pour in some fresh acetone. It is cheap, easy, clean, and great. 3) Water curing... yes, it is good... but with caveats. Especially for delicate prints, it can help prevent warping. But keep in mind that this is now contaminated water, and best practice is to let that water evaporate fully with full sun exposure. Anything that gets uncured resin in it should be treated as a hazardous material, and should not be treated properly. Yes, technically speaking your model is cured, so any resin left suspended in the water should also be cured.... but letter of the law in most areas says to that that evaporate fully to dispose of it properly. Which is why I don't do it myself. I have mosquitoes, and leaving water out to evaporate just is a terrible idea in my area. But as long as you are disposing of the water properly, it works great, and I would highly encourage it. 4) The sun is big... really really big... so don't leave your prints in direct sunlight. It can/will warp the prints, and for some clear/white resins it can burn/orange/cloud the print. Get yourself a cardboard box, and a 24W UV light kit on amazon. Line that thing with foil, tape the lights all around in there, and set the box over your print for ~5-10 minutes. Flip the print over for another 5 min to get the bottom, and done! Cheap, easy, it will hit all sides pretty evenly, and at a low enough wattage to not introduce warping. If you cure outdoors, then do it under the shade of a tree, and that seems to help a lot. 5) Once everything is removed and cured, then comes the cleanup. Ideally you want lots of extremely thin supports which pop right off with no issues... but that is sometimes (often lol) not possible for every part of a model. Lately I have taken to being less careful about snapping the supports off, and filling the crater with material and painting over rather than snapping the supports off and sanding the nub down. To each their own of course... but that is just something I have noticed for my own workflow that works well. If painting is not an option then obviously this would be a terrible idea... but part of me does not trust that a resin print is ever fully cured, so I will at the very least lacquer or paint all of my prints to add that little bit of barrier. Hope that helps somebody! Resin printing is awesome! Hope more people get into it!
As long as you go in prepared and knowledgable, there is no need to be scared of it :) It's way better to be prepared, rather than scared/reactive to things. You'll have 0 problems with these printers if you go in knowing what to do with them :) If you ever give it a shot Kelsey, YOU GOT THIS :)
BIG IMPORTANT THING. Water Washable resin doesnt do well with water curing. For waterwashable resin your printz need to be completely dry before curing unless you dont mind some detail loss and a white film setting over the top of them.
As someone who's been overthinking and done a ton of research into 3D resin printing this video made it look plain and simple without taking away the importance of proper handling. Thank you so much for this concise watch!
I initially started with pickle jars with the lift out basket for washing off uncurred resin. Use two washes. One for the bulk of it and another for anything extra. I’ve since upgraded to a wash and cure station and my post print process has become soooo much easier and more enjoyable I highly recommend it!
WOW TYSM other videos were just too extra, like fricking tubs with iso alc and a giant uv thing with a full on room with ventilation and stuff and I just don’t have the money for that and couldn’t get to how to clean them on a budget without a gigantic machine with just a uv light or the sun, a brush and a little plastic bowl, thanks man you desserve the sub ❤️
The water cure method is nice, however 90% of the time the reason you have cloudy white specks on your cured minis is because you didn't clean the print off thoroughly/ completely dry off the IPA from the print before you cured them. Make sure your prints are clean and dry before you cure using any method.
You can be a paid for commentator. Your voice sounds very professional, well rehearsed, and fluid. Wait, you have a YT channel with tons of Patreons? You are a professional commentator, lol.
Thanks Max! And yeah, it really is awesome! It comes out so much faster and... idk, just better? It's hard to describe. You can just feel that it's better!
*Does a small voics* Yes, you are amazing!... haha LOVE the comedy style and all the tips you give makes a person like me that love info for little tips and tricks happy~
This is so straight forward and informative. Thank you! Would you say that the water curing makes a better end result or are they all going to have the same durability and ability to hold paint? Sounds like it's better and faster but after doing all 3 you've saved so many people so much time.
You should test out the water soluble resin. Then there is no need for the alcohol but you still need to rinse it off with water but you can't run it under the faucet, you need containers like the alcohol.
The biggest help for me removing the supports is dipping the models into hot water for a couple of seconds beforehand. (Not boiling water, just as hot as your sink can go.)
Me: thinking about buying a resin 3D printer and accepting that I have to research what i will need for post processing: Rybonator: uploading this video Me: NANI THE FUCK?!?! You read minds now?
So in this old review video I did, I show how I set it up out of the box - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EZr9FZx6mNw.html BUT, I would highly recommend using some of my newer support/print settings, like in the video I just published prior to this one. I show those settings here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cPXCilN7Cqc.html . The setup is the same even when it's on the newer elegoo mars 2 machine :)
@@Rybonator thanks, I have just bought the elegoo mars 2 pro and wanted to be able to make your dice right out of the box. I think i wat ched the video where you did the 140 figures over night and was wondering if you had made any adjustments since it had been a while since you made that video.
What do you do with the supports after you've separated them from the mini? Thanks for these videos on resin printing, you're really good at explaining stuff and it's making me more and more interested in getting a printer someday!
Buildlines are waste products, there's no way to reuse them in the printing process, they're as useful as any other piece of random plastic sticks so up to you if you wanna use them for something but they're primarily just garbage.
@@GiraffeFlavoredCondoms There is ABSOLUTELY a way to reuse them. Often when a print fails, it’s far healthier for my FEP to stick a old support into the vat and use the vat clean, can peel it right off.
@@tfan2222 @Tfan .. I mean like you can't reuse them in printing, like you can't melt it down and turn it back into resin like you can with PLA if you have the machine that does it. That's why I said if you have a use for a bunch of plastic sticks, and there absolutely are uses for them, you just can't turn them back into uncured resin and reuse them in the printing. Which is why I said that last sentence, which I guess you just skipped over
I like use a UV light and a UV activated turntable. Also, i'm kind of wondering how the water curing would work on water washable resin. you obviously wouldn't want to use the washing water
I have an Anycubic Photon and it's perfectly fine. I haven't tried an Elegoo yet, but from everything I read/researched they are pretty much exactly the same. So I would go with whichever goes for a lower price at the time you want to buy.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to make it :) What does it mean if my prints are yellowing after curing in sunlight? I am using Anycubic Water Washable 405nm High Precision resin
About to start resin printing for the first time after grabbing a Mars 3. Thanks for being so quick and to the point! Regarding support removal though, how easy is it to remove the supports, and should I worry about loose uncured resin flying off when doing so?
Thank you so much for this video, I am starting to get into 3d printing and was worried about *washing minis* and curing them separately from sunlight... I live in Australia lol. I've seen that I should keep printing minis out of direct sunlight if at all possible, but my 6 I still live with, want me to resin print outside if I choose to pick it up 😅. Is it mandatory that they lurk in a windowless room until the final curing stage or is a shady corner good enough?
Great video as always Rybonator! Instead of superglue, you can also use a little bit of resin and that UV flashlight to attach broken bits or assemble multi-part minis. I also use that trick for filling any divots from removing supports.
isopropyl doesn't mean 99% alcohol, it means it has mostly propanol as opposed with normal alcoholic mixes that have a little bit more of all (Methanol, Ethanol, Propanol, Butanol). ISO means "same"... which means it's an alcohol that has only one of the alcohols inside (propanol here) not more. The percent can mean the purity versus other alcohols or versus water as "solution".
If you're just going to break off the support why not do it before you clean the print? The supports hold LOTS of resin, even with water washable resin you're ending up with a lot more toxic waste to deal with than you would if you peal away the supports first
I've never noticed an excess of resin when I do mine, however, I have on hollowed prints before. Sometimes I will clean it again after removing supports if I feel that it's warranted. :)
Water curing ? what would the resin be in this would it be Water washable resin ? or can u get normal resin and then just put in water and cue ? be greatful for the help im looking for cheap options to clean and cue and resins for mini figures and tanks etc Eleegoo x looking at but i do have uv torches so how long would u try that for and the machine u had is about 15 to 20.00 so alot cheaper than the x machine thanks
Rather than super glue, use a small drop of resin and cure with uv flashlight (i use laser pen) then cure completely. I will have to try the water cure method sounds interesting 8-)
Can you put multiple prints in the same clear cup or is it better to cure one at a time. I bulk print a lot of small bits for DnD and want to know if there is anything that could go wrong.
really depends on the printer. Resin printers are AMAZING detail... but where a traditional FDM printer would cost ~$0.01-0.03 per mini, a resin printer is going to be much more expensive at closer to ~$0.10-0.15 per mini. Still cheap, still worth doing for lots of little highly detailed items... but larger things like printing terrain or bigger things it is often more cost effective to use the lower detailed FDM prints. That said... some of these FDM printers are getting pretty awesome too!
@rybonator Use water washable resin!! Soooo much better, less odor, less post print work and same level of quality. Only downside is if you hollow your minis, they can crack...but just apply infill to a hollowed model and 👌🏻
I'd be a little careful w/ a metal scraper. you can scratch up your build plate a little w/ it and over time cause problems. i just get plastic ones and replace them regularly. Then again i don't trust the quality of my printer so ymmv.
I like using acetone nail polish remover, it works a bit better and at the time i started using it was much easier to get a hold of lol.... But you have to make sure it has acetone, the non acetone stuff doesn't work at all
The literal hot tip of removing supports by dunking the model in very hot water for a few seconds bears mentioning, I think. I haven't found that it separates or warps even tiny details, and it softens smaller support contact points to the degree that they almost fall right off. It's a good thing to add to your cleaning routine IMO, right after the alcohol bath.
