I'm 75. Learning is magic. You're not the same person after. I usually take on a haughty attitude after learning something. I look down my nose at people. I'll stop a person on the street and ask if they know such and such. After they give me that look, I feel more superior. I say: "So, you didn't know about the tape." It brightens my day.
Another tip. I make a mark on the Lid and Can so you always put the lid on in the same position, I also store the cans upside down. Stops the contents forming a skin.
If you turn the paint upside down, when you torn it the right way.. Bingo....! You the have paint all over the lid, and the inside... No. No.. Keep it upright.. And put a piece of greaseproof paper inside on too of the paint...
You know,,,,,, I have been dealing with this problem way too long, and you, you show me this simple little trick. What an easy solution. Thank you, very much, I will try to spread this idea to others. May God Bless you.
I've always been frustrated when pouring paint or stain from a conventional can. I'd usually apply afterward a wadded up paper towel & insert a flat blade screwdriver covered by several thicknesses of paper towel into the lid recess, then scrape around the can lid. It would normally clean quite well. However, this simple yet ingenious technique with masking tape is so much more convenient. It will work on any size can with a conventional lid design - from gallon to quart to pint. Thanks very much for sharing a quick, inexpensive solution to an age-old problem! There are plastic accessories available from paint sections of home improvement stores that'll do the same thing, but they're usually priced at $3 to $5. With your method, only a short strip of masking tape & you're done! Piece o' cake!!!
Very good idea here. Thank you. Another option: my dad told me to take a hammer and a finish nail and poke a few holes in the rim. The paint drains back into the can through the holes. The lid seals the holes when you put it back on. Works great.
I posted the same then saw your post later. We were taught to do this back in the 60's in my wood shop class. I'm still doing it now and it works great.
As a sign maker constantly utilizing paint in my craft. I wished that I were smart enough to have come up with this simple and effective solution to such a universal problem 76 years ago. Thanks Ed...Nice video!
Great tip and I know it works, having used this method for a while. Minor upgrade if you want (recommended) add an inverse backup strip on the outside of the can to reinforce the tape lip. This can help secure the inner tape strip if dampness prevents full adhesion to the inner metal rim.
Painter here. I'm going to try that. The new plastic cans with plastic lids are terrible for not sealing after paint gets in the groove. Also, oil primer with high solid content like "Cover Stain" builds up in that that groove and the lid will not seal. Good idea.
Great tip. People put holes in that track, not realizing that the seal in inside of those holes and they allow air to get into the can. This is great. Thank you.
My father (a homebuilder in the 1950s and 1960s) did it all the time, and never had a problem with air getting in. It's worked for me as well, at least with oil-based finishes. The holes will rust over time if the contents are water-based, but in his day those newfangled latex paints were looked down upon - and knowing him, he never used it. (This is a guy who never plumbed with anything but copper pipe and soldered joints.) If you use a dull punch or a screwdriver, you might deform the rim enough to compromise the seal, but he always used a sharp nail to do it, as do I. I'll definitely try this tape trick the next time I crack open a fresh can.
@@alext8828 Doing it "right" was second nature to him. Plus lots of craftsmen in the family, which probably translated to peer pressure - you don't want your cousins ragging on you! (BTW, the plumbing in his own house was _silver_ soldered. It'll still be tight a hundred years from now.)
@@neilw2O I think the methods of an experienced painter (malcolmmarzo2461) could be considered a little closer. Paint is thick and drains better with a small slot rather than a mere hole. Happy painting!
Well done, I appreciate the time you took out of your day to share this tip. You saved a lot of future messy cans for others who didn't know this tip. You seem like a nice guy. Cheers
I like this. I usually use a screwdriver and hammer to punch about 10 -12 holes in the rim. Most of the paint will run through the holes and the rest will be pushed through when you replace the lid. The tape might be a cleaner idea.
Hi Edmond, excellent tip. Thank you very much. Your tip is so good I will pass your tip on to other people and make sure to give you the credit for the idea.
Good idea. One always gets paint in the rim so what I do is ths: before you open the can mark a line across the top on the can and straight down the side. I use a marker of some kind or with quart and gallon cans I put a strip of masking tape across the top and continue it down the side. Open the can, the tape will tear. and remain. You will get paint in the rim but if you line up the tape, even after the paint dries you will always be able to line it up, the dried paint all around the rim will match where it breaks upon reopening.forming a good seal.
I've considered following your suggestion, but feared the tape would unstick itself after repeated pourings. So, I just tear off paper towel strips, twist them, and poke them into the groove. The twisted strips are, easily, removed, leaving the groove clean.
Good ideas... Using a screwdriver or such inside the rag makes that wiping method easier and quicker, the tape method can also be done with alimunium foil however the tape is probably best.
Genius. Have tried the “triangle” approach using masking tape with little success. Will try your method which looks more promising next time. Thanks for sharing.
Tape trick is good. Glad you got views. Most hardware stores sell a vinyl rubber pour lip that fastens into the grove for about $1....if you want a reusable aid
@@robira1313 i think he's mostly just trying to create content for clicks....like the people that create a simple, affordable and available tool with 10 hrs ASMR of cutting and bad welding with tools far more expensive than the tool they are making. However this is a nice cheap old painters trick that works when you don't have the better $1 tool or it is busy on another can. Duct tape is better but painter's masking tape is likely at hand when painting. I've used it myself.
Good video showing a good trick. When closing the can, fill it with CO2 to prevent oxidation of the paint. To get CO2, use welding gas, a beverage gas squirter or your exhalation (after holding your breath for a while). Paint in a closed can filled with the gas stays good for years.
Many years ago when I was in high school wood shop, we were taught to tap holes in the perimeter of the sealing surface of the can with a finishing nail so the paint could drip back into the can before placing the lid on the can and tapping it shut. Fifty years later, I'm still doing that and it works quite well.
Super tip thank you. Now I'm going to take some pills and lie down for a bit. Stress from watching and praying you would not drop your phone into the paint. 🎉
