I have a bunch of 1/4" plywood pieces I'll stuff into a caliper when blowing dual-piston caliper pistons out...Let them hit, slide a 1/4" piece out, blast them again, rinse and repeat...So both come out in a pretty controlled fashion, and you don't have much left to pull on the one that stays behind. I do it this way cause I always had trouble getting things to work right when trying to get a piston to go back into a bore and seal to get the other one out. That blue is stellar.
Wow that turned out awesome! I love that color. I'm gonna do that for my truck except in a dark red. Do you use a low psi when blow powder out of the cups and the threaded areas?
Sorry for the late response. Thank you for your response and letting me know. Will give this a try hopefully after Christmas. A powder coating gun is on my wish list.
Yes. I have applied even basic vinyl under powder, and it worked. I do recommend something high quality, like Oracal vinyl. Some powders even let you cure at a slightly lower temp, but longer cure time. That can help make it work also.
Nice job! Just curious, what psi do you run on your blow gun when you are cleaning holes? Did you wipe clean the surface where slides hold in place or coat? Thanks!
I run my blow gun at full pressure (~90psi) but it is easy to regulate with the trigger. The slider area is also coated, because the stainless clips just snap in place over the coating.
Those look great!! I do have a question. I want to Powdercoat my calipers high gloss black. Then I want to put a sticker on it, then Powdercoat it clear. My question is I want the clear coat to be high gloss is it just a matter of buying a high gloss clear? I m asking because you put clear on it and it wasn’t super shiny more like a matte. I know video doesn’t do justice lol
Hey bud I know this video is older but question is a 6 piston the same ? They’re Brembo does it matter? Just wondering if I should attempt this on my own
They are similar. I have another video that's even older where I do a set of 4 piston Jaguar calipers. The hard part is getting the pistons out because you need to have them all still "in" but pushed out enough that they can be removed. As soon as any single piston comes out and loses the seal, there is no way to build pressure to remove the other pistons. I think you'll be successful if you try. Might get frustrating, but you got this!
i have a very small sandblaster, a very small oven, very small car, and new calipers. I am going to finally try doing this myself thanks to your awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to show us beginners how to properly do this!! Would you say that a clear coat is required? Or only for your special base colour?
If the calipers are brand new, then just clean them really good with brake cleaner, don't even bother with blasting. But if they are painted or rusty, then blast them. Clear was mandatory for the "illusion" powder that I used here. Most powders do not require it, but it can add an extra level of gloss (or satin/matte) if that's the look you want. Have fun with it. You'll do great!
@@tinygaragefab I was actually looking at some cheap setups today after posting. I have a large compressor, paint booth and few HVLP guns and such. I usually paint my calipers and rotor hats with either epoxy or ceramic paint. Always dabbled with the idea of powder coating. It should be longer lasting and more durable than any paint product. I figure for the few items that I'd do, a cheaper set might be ok. Thanks!
I only do my own parts, so I don't have a rate. I used to do customer work, mostly sport bike wheels, but I quit doing that a few years ago. But if I quoted this job for parts and labor, it would be about$250-300
That is the retaining ring for the dust seal. Because it expands like an accordion, it needs to be retained by something. It's usually a ring like that. Some caliper dust seals press in like an oil seal, but I don't see that too often.
Looks great, but you should use brake assembly fluid instead of brake fluid in the bores. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and can cause the pistons to stick, assembly fluid doesn't. It's harder to find these days but I was able to get it ordered from O'Reilly's when no one else wanted to ship it.
Um...brake fluid is what fills the bores and actuates the pistons, so why contaminate the fluid with anything else? It's already so susceptible to water absorption I'd rather not use anything other than the end-use fluid in assembly. I'll look into the grease, but will probably never use it.
@@tinygaragefabI was just reading bmw instructions as I’m thinking about overhauling my calipers and they also indicate use of some special paste instead of brake fluid, which is what I have done in the past.
I use crushed glass. I but it at harbor freight. Sometimes I'll mix in some of the stuff you can get at Tractor Supply just to give more 'cut.' I may be switching to aluminum oxide though, because I want to start getting into ceramic coating and aluminum oxide must be used for Cerakote.
I don't sandblast in the piston bore. I usually just sandblast the outside of the caliper body. If I need to blast close to the bore, I'll either stuff a rag, some foil, or mask the bore.
I do have a lot of the high-temp silicone tape in my arsenal, but sometimes it really is easier to wipe it with a finger or blow it with the air gun. Some jobs absolutely require taping though, and I use it when I have to.
I never preheated. I baked them to offgas and burn off any oil, but then let them cool before spraying powder. I never spray powder on a hot part. That is called "hot flocking" and is not recommended at all.
Just a few steps I believe your missing. Like pre bake part for outgasses not get brake fluid on finish after done Also need to know that wiping a part with microfiber after blasting leaves behind small hairs that you can burn off with torch... but they do look good for sure.
I do outgas some things. Calipers, I hardly ever do. I've done enough that its not really a necessary step. Aluminum parts that had contact with oils get outgased 100% of the time. Brake fluid getting on them is inevitable. Brake fluid is the clear version of anti-sieze. If you know, you know. And I keep a propane torch at the ready next to the booth to burn the microfiber hairs off, as well as occasionally add a little preheat to inside corners of tricky parts that would normally deflect powder from hysteresis.
I'm in Virginia, but I do not do 'customer' work. I simply don't have time for my own projects, which leaves absolutely no time to do things for anyone else. I would like to be able to take on jobs eventually, but for now I just can't. There should be no shortage of powder coating shops darn near anywhere, all of which should have experience tearing down and rebuilding calipers after coating.
I suppose you could, but be careful not to get powder in the bore because that could cause the piston to stick. Seal kits are literally less than $5 so i just change them every time so that my caliper is always as good as new.
@@tinygaragefab My calipers are all brand new, OEM, so I didn't want to mess with the seals. People go back and forth about the necessity to remove the seals. Thanks for your feedback.
I have about 80psi on whole system. However, the blow gun that I use has a fairly sensitive trigger and I can regulate it from just a tiny whisper of air to a full blast. It just depends on how much powder I need to move and where it is on the part.
