How to PREP and PAINT a Fiberglass Hood. 

Thank you so much!

Thanks Cole! It takes a good deal of time to get a quality finish on parts like this, but it is well worth it.

Unfortunately I didn’t get any videos of the hood installed on the truck! While the fitment wasn’t 100% perfect (and unfortunately there was no adjustment with this hood/hinges without a good deal of fabrication) it definitely looked good on the truck, and gave it a nice aggressive look.

Thanks for the kind words dude! Unfortunately I’m pretty locked down, here in Alberta.

Thank you very much! Doing my best to keep doing tutorials as well as sharing my personal projects!

I would use a similar process, but there would be a few variables, and it would also vary by what shape the canoe is in to begin with. It would depend on how you want the finished product to look (a show piece to mount on the rafters of your cabin vs something durable for regular use). A durable polyurethane single stage paint would be great on a glass canoe, as would a fresh coat of new gel coat, though I’m not as familiar with gel coat application.

Sorry for the delayed response, I didn’t get a notification for some reason! It’s been a while, but the white was Toyota 040, and it “think” I sprayed GM 8555 for the black. Any of the solid blacks from the main manufacturers (GM 8555, dodge px8 , ford UA, etc) will give an identical look.

You should never be sanding in between coats of paint. I believe this misconception was started by some youtuber with tons of followers but no actual training or certifications in this trade. The only time you would sand your base coat is to get rid of minor imperfections (dust nibs), but then you generally have to spray another coat or two of base before clear. For a primer surfacer (high build primer) that gets sanded, I generally do 3 coats. For a primer sealer (sprayed just before base coat and doesn’t get sanded), just a single coat. Primer sealer isn’t always necessary, it will depend on the application and prep work. For example, most paint systems (axalta, ppg, Sikkens, etc) require new parts to be prepped and sprayed with a sealer before base coat. If you are painting used parts or refinishing an existing paintjob on a car, you usually don’t need a sealer, though one *can* be used.

Hey Mark! Thanks for the kind words. Your grit choice should come directly from the TDS (technical data sheet) for the products you intend to spray. Every product in this industry has slightly different prep procedures/dry times/recoat times/ etc. etc. that should be followed for a lasting finish. That being said, your grit choices are pretty similar to most of the automotive products I have sprayed, and should be just fine! Most likely the biggest area you would run into an issue with your proposed grits would be with the final sanding before you’re ready to paint. I’ve sprayed some base coats that are perfectly happy over 400 grit, and I’ve sprayed others that will show sand scratches if you use anything more aggressive than 800. That being said, if you plan to spray a sealer before base, 400 would probably be adequate.

That's going to vary depending on the product line you plan to spray. I always prefer to stick within the same product line, in this case Sikkens, from start to finish. If there was a ton of bare fibreglass, though, I would probably hit the whole thing with Slicksand first, block that, then a high build primer and block again, then finish sand for paint.

What do you mean exactly by “little holes”? Do you mean rock chips?

Is the glass trunk lid finished in gelcoat? and if so, was the gelcoat damaged by the brake fluid?

@@flyinphil6884 the lid does have a gel coat on it. It’s just an unfinished panel from the manufacturer. And it appears undamaged, it’s been about a year ago since I spilled the fluid on the trunk lid. Im just worried about the paint pilling off after I spray it

@@huntertimms9688 I would give it a good wash with a wax and grease remover and a water based cleaner before and after prepping it. If there is no visible damage or lifting of the gel coat, it shouldn't be an issue. If you are still concerned, though, you could sand that area a little more aggressively and prime it with a 2k high build primer and then block sand it smooth.

@@flyinphil6884 thank you!

Hi Lorne! So I used the 3M “perfect it” polishing system in this video. It is a 3 stage system (so you have a compound, polish, and super fine polish, as well as a different pad for each stage). Keep in mind it is only necessary to polish clear if you have removed minor imperfections like dust nibs and small runs, or if you are completely sanding the job and polishing it for a perfectly flat finish.

This was a few years ago, but I think I had about 20-24 hours into it.

I use Sata spray guns. They are simply what the other painter used at the shop when I got into the trade, so it’s what I learned with.

For the initial high build primer, I used Sikkens high build surfacer gray. For sealer right before paint, I used Sikkens colourbuild plus.

It depends on the job and what will go into it! If you’re in the Edmonton, Alberta area, feel free to drop me a private message.

If you are just painting the vehicle, and aren't doing body work, then yes. In my video where I outline the costs of doing repairs and paint at home, a huge portion of my costs are tied up in my welding machine, stud puller, and other shop tools. I also use an extremely expensive professional air filtration system, which isn't strictly necessary for painting at home. My spray guns are also not cheap, but I use them every day to make a living. If you're painting a full vehicle, you will want at least a 60 gallon compressor. that will be your biggest expense. At the end of the day, the cost is going to come down to the quality of tools you invest in, and the quality of materials you purchase to spray. For doing *just* a paintjob at home, you could probably spend less than $5k. However, there is a high probability you will have to respray part (or all of) the job if it doesn't come out to your expectations. I have thousands of hours of spray time under my belt, and I still get occasional hiccups in the booth that require either wet sanding and polishing to correct, or sanding and respraying part of the job.

@@av8or971 really? How so? I have Akzo Nobel training and 4 autobody tickets, and have been painting professionally for over 6 years if it counts for anything.

Ah damn, I must have forgotten to film and mention that step. It was definitely done! Thanks for the positive words 👌

@@flyinphil6884what a guy^^

@@Thegcodeecan’t keep everyone happy!

@@flyinphil6884 I know that’s right, some people just aren’t worth it either.

Why were you watching to begin with if you know everything... truth is, you were here because you wanted to learn how to prep and paint a fiberglass panel. Mission accomplished.