How To Prepare A New Gun For Black Powder 

Awesome! Have fun!

Lube doesn't evaporate. Many lubricants are dissolved in a solvent which does evaporate over time, but the heavier oils that do the job of lubrication and moisture / corrosion protection will not evaporate.

Correct ​@@MrItsthething

From the German way of saying bullet lube

That's what she said

I don't use it on modern guns because I like something a little more aggressive for those (though it will work), but I love it for black powder guns.

I use Ballistol on all my pistols. Works great.

Great thing about Ballistol is that it's safe for all surfaces so I use it to clean my grips and holster of fouling. It's also non-toxic so it's not like Hoppes where you'll get sick from inhaling the fumes, but as noted, it's not a very aggressive cleaner due to not having any strong solvents. The bad side of Ballistol is that it stinks to me. It smells like clorinated bacon.

AND,THERE'S ASO THE SYNTHETIC CLP GUN OIL.''THE-G96 BRAND

Ballistol works and has a rich history

Thanks, I was wondering what was in ballistol all through the video. My next move was going to be google, but you seem believable....lol

Well said - thanks 👍

It's just choji oil with an alcohol-based solvent. It's that solvent that allows it to emulsify in water. Choji oil is a 1:100 blend of mineral oil with clove oil and used as a protectant for Japanese swords.

I know this comment is 6 years old, but seeing it reminds me how happy I am that weapon shield is coming back!

@@DeezyP I'm glad it's back, too, as I use Weapon Shield for multiple purposes, such as door hinges. It doesn't take much, though, because a drop or two stops squeaks for several years, in my experience (any oil should work, but for some reason this one does the job longer for me). I wonder why I didn't get notifications for the other replies. 🤷🏻‍♂️

It sure will! I've got 'em runnin' scared now! LOL!!

Just ask tuco the rat. In the classic film “the good the bad and the ugly”

Thanks for watching! I’ll have to see if I can find some of that Young’s 303 oil.

It smells nicer than Ballistol too.... LOL

303 oil is a bit pricy in the states. $15 for 4oz (125ml) plus shipping. It is good though and will emulsify in water like Ballistol.

Thanks for watching!

We used mineral oil as a rust preventative in the machine shops I worked in. Even in coastal areas, no rusted beds or bedways. I live in Florida now, and use it on my tools that are kept in a non-climate conditioned shop with no real issues. In a really harsh environment, such as marine use, or super high humidity areas like the bayou, you can add a little lanolin to it to really give it a boost. You can make a 50/50 mix of mineral oil and mineral spirits, add some liquid lanolin, and put it in a plastic spray bottle for tools and large surfaces like a table saw bed. (Obviously not for anything contacting food for that one, porbably not best for guns either) Straight food grade mineral oil is also excellent for knives, iron cutlery, and any surface for eating or food prep, like a cutting board or wooden bowl. I've also found that 3-in-1 oil works very well for rust prevention, and does a great job of lubricating the internals that don't require grease as well. I have had guns stored for years in my gun safe with 3-in-1 that have no signs of rust even in Florida. You don't really need to lather either of them on, so a little goes a long way. For guns, I prefer 3-in-1 personally, due to it's dual purpose. Ballistol is supposedly mineral oil based, but contains additives that allow it to mix with water. I think it should work OK at full strength, but as "Moose Milk" the coating left behind by the water evaporating would end up being rather thin, and likely easily be wiped away, losing it's protective properties. Given it's expense vs other oils such as mineral oil and 3-in-1, and the difficulty of obtaining it in my area, I've never tried it. BTW 3-in-1 in the internals of black powder revolvers over the years has never given me an issue, it takes both heat and pressure to cause the fouling to "tar up" and since I use Dawn dish washing liquid to clean, it washes right out with any fouling that gets down in there, ready to be renewed for storage and lubrication. I also have used it in the bore for rust prevention with no issue, just making sure to run a dry patch through to remove it before loading/firing if using black powder. There is so little in the bore that if I forget, I still don't get much of an issue with hard fouling, especially none that requires more than a good brushing afterwards to remove, but why give Murphy his chance. :)

Welll. Now idk what to trust or use lol

Ryan Zanow Thanks very much, Ryan! Feel free to enjoy the channel and ask questions any time. RU-vid doesn’t always notify me when a new comment comes in, but I do my best to get to them. Thanks for watching!

Hows the hawken?

I was thinking you could save a lot of time using a solvent that evaporates quickly lol

Mineral spirits, too. I'd soak the disassembled firearm in it (minus the grips) and it will be degreased.

Thanks for watching!

Im new to black powder, why would you shoot an empty cylinder of caps before live fire?

@@jmwsr474 to burn out any excess oils

Thanks for watching!

Here’s a link to my video on disassembly. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5tCdfnoIbSQ.html Thanks for watching!

I’ve actually never tried that, but I haven’t had any trouble with my springs. Thanks for watching!

I haven’t tried that.

Renaissance Wax is for swords on display, not actual use. Most sword users utilize mineral oil or gun oil to protect blades. If you use Renaissance Wax on a sword used for actual cutting practice, it scuffs up the wax and makes it unsightly. Renaissance Wax is meant to give you long-term maintenance-free protection for sword blades on display.

@@BogeyTheBear it might look unsightly but you can touch it up, its not like its automotive clear coat I have since posting that question discovered it actually is an excellent long-term rust prevention for firearms in storage. The question is really about if it reacts badly to powder fouling.

I used it in this video and many others on the channel.

So it’s good on steel frames? But as soon as any copper or brass mixes are involved don’t over use?

@Puppy Puppington yes, steel and aluminum are fine. Only copper, and alloys of copper (like brass) are a concern. One way I check for remaining copper fouling in my barrels is to put a patch with ballistol on it (after I have cleaned them) and leave it over night to a few days. Then after that period of time, I run a dry patch down the barrel. If it comes out green/blue, I know I still have fouling in the barrel.

@Puppy Puppington the reason the patch comes out green/blue is because the ballistol has started dissolving the copper in the barrel, which turns it green/blue, as that is what color copper based metals turn when they oxidize/corrode.

blackpowdershooter 44, I'm already having lots of fun with it! I'm working on a video of it right now and it will be posted Saturday morning. Thanks for watching and for your continued support of the channel!

I use the same .44 jag for both the bore and the chambers.

@@GunsOfTheWest awesome, thank you for the info

Unfortunately, I don’t. It’s all just online.

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

That also works well.

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

You can go out and shoot it accurately quite a bit in a day, but it needs to be cleaned soon after each range session.

I’ve actually never bought one that was so bad that I had to do that. Sometimes, they need a little break-period to get just right, but I’ve been pretty fortunate with the quality.

I use an anti-seize grease from Thompson Center. Choke tube lube also works.

I just do it after each cleaning. I now prefer the aerosol version because the included little tube attachment makes it easy to get all the areas and rub it around without much waste. Here’s a link to the aerosol: gunsoftheweststore.com/products/ballistol-6-oz-aerosol

Yes, a lot of dish soaps are degreasers also.

@@GunsOfTheWest Thank you very much.

I’ve never bothered with that, but I’ve never really had one that was very bad to begin with. Thanks for watching!

Hi, Chris! Personally, I would not put a gun in the dishwasher. I’ve seen people do that and end up with rust on their guns. Also, it can leave potentially-serious toxins, such as lead, in the place where food dishes are washed. It’s best to stick to the more traditional methods of gun cleaning, which I have several videos on. Thanks for watching!

I tried that once and ran it though the whole cycle. wash, rinse and dry cycle it had rust growing already. no real reason to do that but if you must do that pull it out as soon as the rinse cycle is done. never though about the lead getting in the washer. I heat mine with a hair drier after washing, it doesn't get too hot and clears the water out.

Yes

To be honest, I use a $10 multi-bit set that I bought at the local grocery store. Just make sure to use one that fits the screws perfectly.

Yes.

It’s actually a good thing to do with any new gun. Thanks for watching!

That’s too expensive for the Uberti Walker. A new one can be found for about $150 less than that at stores like Cabela’s.

I always just leave that one in.

First, thank you very much for watching and taking the time to leave your thoughts! I really do appreciate it! To answer your questions, I’m actually not sure how all non-petroleum oils will hold up, but the Ballistol that I use has done very well on my percussion revolvers and also on my 1873 Single Action cartridge gun, which I also use black powder in. Regarding the chambers, I’ve never had any fouling get stuck in the rear of the chambers, but I start by running the whole cylinder under hot water, so most of the fouling is gone before the first patch goes in. I just finished a percussion revolver cleaning video last night, which I’ll be posting on the Saturday after Christmas. It will show the method that I use. Thanks again for watching!

Understood, I use hot water. Hot water is great because if you get the gun parts hot it will self dry. Only problem is you must get the fouling out before it cools or it will surface rust a tad bit. Currently, i picked up a "Navy Arms" brand 1858 Remington made in 1968 (Uberty). I am working on improving the accuracy. It's a little worn as rifling goes and its been neglected in a few minor ways. That will be the next video i make.

Yeah, I’ve had that surface rust too. Comes off pretty easy though. By the way, I just subscribed to your channel. Looks like good stuff!

Thanks for subscribing...

Gun Scrubber or Lucus Gun Cleaner (specifically the synthetic safe versions) are better suited to firearms than automotive brake cleaner. Even so you must use NON CHLORINATED brake cleaner if you choose to go that way. The other stuff will ruin all kinds of things on a gun...finish, grips, sight paint/tritium vials, stocks, safety selector markings. You don't want the chlorinated brake cleaner anywhere near a firearm.

It’s been a long time, but I believe I bought it at Cabela’s as a part of a set.

2 months since this post. Curious if your 1858 fired?

What is a “trigger/bolt” spring? You mean the mainspring? Or a different spring?

@@Nick-wn1xw Trigger/Bolt spring or Sear/Bolt spring. It's forked. Here's a link: www.gunsprings.com/index.php?page=items&cID=3&mID=1&dID=96

Gunbroker, overpriced but legit

I now just put all the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner with water and a little Dawn dish soap. It gets the factory oil right off. For general cleaning tools, I like this kit: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oX83dgd8ZH4.html

@@GunsOfTheWest no more simple green in the ultrasonic?

@@GunsOfTheWest no lore simple green in the ultrasonic?

yes they did, if they ran out of water

I use an old cotton undershirt that I "borrowed" from my dads drawer. lol. worked great. just cut into the sizes u need.

I’ve hidden money lots of times. It isn’t hard. First find a hiding place. Second insert money. Done. Hidden.

After the gun is degreased, I do use 100% Ballistol to oil it.