In this episode of Platinum Tech we look at 10 steps to prep your RB block for a build. From measuring and cleaning to machining and the little special touches.
Super attention to detail! Great to see the level of professionalism in action. Got to say that the more I learn about the RB engine, the 2JZ is a much easier base platform to build off.
That is the very good demonstration of why you need to always need to torque plate bore and hone. Information is king and thanks for the professional information.
No mate, I love the videos and you produce good content. Maybe "act" wasnt the best word, just didnt look like the hand was as steady. All the best with the build :)
Awesome video as usual Andrew Im not a GTR man but I appreciate the engineering aspect of this series ALA Martin Donnon's features in Zoom mag back in the day
@ChrisHallett83 no it has different rods, solid lifters and pretty much most of the internals are different. The blocks are the same but that is it to my understanding
That goes for any big horsepower build. If you want to do about 700HP an RB is absolutely one of the cheaper straight sixes to work with. The RB30 is dirt cheap and only require a cam, injectors and turbo to 700HP without any fuss, and it will operate at that level reliably for a long time if you change the oil frequently.
1 Step to Prep an RB Block: 1) Give your block to professional engine machinist who knows what to do, instead of screwing it up yourself with a cordless drill.
@@mrclown7469 says the non car enthusiasts and troll sad manchild . So what vehicles do you know or have modify over the past ten years or more . I guess not one because your still a bitch manchild still at home with your mum and dad . Muppets have a cry clown
Engine builders I've talked to does not recommend tunnel/line boring if the engine is in OK shape (even main bearing wear) and you keep the crank, mains etc stock. If you change any of these, or add a engine brace it's necessary though. Changing main studs will not alter the alignment enough to motivate a line bore.
Would love to see a video on what to do with damaged or reject blocks. 26 blocks are expensive and hard to get here in the states. Can resleeving be considered a viable option for basic lower power builds? Always heard its not worth it but would be nice to see your views on it.
@RB_Tuning wow, cash-grabbing parasites? dude, what did we do to you? and do you want to have a chat to resolve it? happy to fix whatever we did to you to be called a cash-grabbing parasite, that's just harsh.
Can someone explain grout filling a block? It looks like your blocking off all the coolant galleries. How would this not cause overheating? What am I missing here?
You fill the water galleries with concrete. Cars that ru on methanol fuel dont need water i the block, but still have water in the head. Can half grout fill so water still goes in block.
It does, to some extent. Similar to a closed-deck setup without having to sleeve the block. You're sacrificing cooling for block rigidity. In these cases, the engines are meant for drag race applications and are only run for a couple minutes at a time and can get away without running water.
@@gav240z not necessarily. Grout is the low budget, sort of "backyard" approach. It can literally be done at home. The next option would be what is known as a "block guard" or "cylinder support system" which is a single piece billet brace that installs around the top of the cylinders and keeps them from distorting under high cylinder pressure. The next level would be upgrading the sleeves which requires substantial machine work. At that point you can go "closed-deck" and run without water in the block. The final stage would be a billet block.
I've read thousands of forums, saw many videos, everyone i saw has incomplete answers, today since y'all have worked so much on this engine, just settle down this once and for all, how much reliable is the rb25/26 compared to its competitors?
The key is having a machine shop with the knowledge and machines to be able to do this, for example in my country its very hard to find that level of service because most of the machine shops just work for all other type of applications other than motorsports. I would really like to know how about resleeving a block? Could it be ok for high hp?
Why would you off-set cylinder bore and hone before you deck the block when using a torque plate? Wouldn't you want to deck the block before that step for a true flat surface and then use the torque plate to bore and hone the cylinders or am I misunderstanding something?
Just curious but what’s the general cost for a engine builder to check the block bore thickness and hardness, as well as crack testing to ensure there’s no hairpin cracks ? This would be for a SR20 block if that makes a difference
What would be the cost difference between all this prep work on an old engine vs just going straight to a new billet block and fixing all the RB issues at the same time that will cope with more horsepower?
Billet block still requires a lot of machine work and extra things to make it go together, so the cost difference is still the same. Billet block has its own issues and not really suitable for lots of street duties due to block expansiojn
@yusufaustralia billet blocks grow about 1mm on the deck, and journals grow about 2 thou so its a little tricky, variable compression by about a ratio, its more a top end race solution
Hell no. Billet block still more than double the price and it needs lots of machine work also. Block expansion also effects bearing clearances and belt tension, so we're not convinced its suitable for street use .
Hey I'm kinda new to engine upgrades. I just bought this HR34 with an RB20DE Neo 6 engine. I'm hoping to squeeze out 300-350hp without turbos. Is it possible?
Some OEM head bolts are designed to stretch / yield during assembly. In these builds you use hard ARP studs and those do not stretch/yield during install, so you can reuse them.
they need to be bed in and stretched a few times to allow for break in, but no they can be re used, some OEM bolts can's, as per aDaWaN mentions, spot on
@@JeremyPetho you sound like you really know what your talking about... Who else does blocks capable of handling 2500hp reliably for $2700 - 2800U.S. Certainly not a billet RB block, or a billet Barra. LS's are cheap to build in that power range compared to other engines. Being a qualified mechanic of 19 years who does engines for the shop, customers, friends and myself i get to build a lot of high end stuff. My machinist and i threw together a 2500hp LSX combo for a mate of ours for around $17000 - $18000 for a complete motor. Obviously fuel system, ECU, turbos and plumbing specific to the car were at extra cost. It went in a first gen Monaro with no cage and a totally stock looking body- all the chassis strengthening was done under the car to keep it a true street car here in Aust. Go have a look at what a little paw block or a decent set of aftermarket Holden heads are worth- which a SO shit compared to SBC, BBC and LS stuff in the aftermarket. Look into what it costs to build that kind of power reliably with any of these other motors mentioned- then come back at me. The only way you'll get a similar result is with a BBC in terms of power, reliability and cost. You young guys mate, ya think ya know it all... 😅
@@LehanBreytenbach Love that car, as well as ZPDrift's S15. It's just that it's tough for me to justify the cost of making an RB reliable, as opposed to fitting a 2JZ, in South Africa at least. We don't have the budget to make RB's reliable like they do over in NZ/Aussie, hence why 2JZ wins. The fact that you can get replacement parts directly from a Toyota dealership really saves you a shit load because parts are available on demand. I LOVE an RB, but dammit is needs a big budget
Kevin Jooste I’m well aware of the capabilities of the 2j. However I’d personally take an RB over a 2j for my particular power goals. It’s a smoother engine. And I personally think with the right setup sounds better than the 2j.
@@truuuupR rb def sounds better than 2j.i own both and the jz isn't as bulletproof as the internet makes them seem. I've seen many jz failures from low to high hp
