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Thank you for uploading this video. Great camera work with colored freeze frame of parts an excellent feature, great narration, and despite many brake jobs under my belt, I had never heard of the risk to ABS when bleeding. As someone else mentioned, the order is indeed based on where your MC is. So in the UK, yes, you'd start LR (farthest from MC, then RR, then LF, then RF. I did note that you hung your caliper by the hose, which is definitely something to avoid. Support it with either a bungee cord or zip tie to the coil spring so the hose is always slack. Letting it hang can stress the hose and cause a leak down the line. Thanks again.
Thank you for the compliment John. I was going to answer you back that I would never leave a calliper hanging but on checking the video........I did grrrr. In my defence I'm going the say the hand brake cable was holding it lol. I always hang the fronts but just shows we can get complacent so easily. Like you say you shouldn't allow to hang from the pipe.
I did the very same repair about a year ago and no joy alas. At least you know a bit more about the make up of the ABS unit. I also have a very rare model unit and can’t find a second hand replacement anywhere. You have inspired me to do some further investigation around the pressure sensor circuitry though. Great vid. 👍
Thank you Paul for the comment. You can get them repaired for around £150 I think. I think my silver mini is going past cost effective so will just use for video making. Engine mounts also failed and the 2 wheel sensors refuse to come out. Rusted solid.
I’ve never needed to take the calliper off to successfully get the old fluid out. Strangely I’ve found that even without bleeding the brakes you can get a lot of air out just by pressurising the fluid with this bottle device. You actually see the air bubbles coming up the pipe back towards the container when using it. I’ve found that doing this after bleeding the callipers made the pedal go solid, especially after having bled them where the pedal was still spongy.
There is talk it's normally the pressure sensor that fails which is connected by micro fine hair like wires. I think you have to code if you get the same module but not the exact one that was fitted to your series of car. They do contain an EEPROM for vehicle data that needs to be correct to the model of car.
@@iebah1 Thankfully mine is available on ebay for about £150 second hand but the thing is you don't know how long it will last as they all suffer the same issues I believe. I might have another look at once I've done my engine removal series. Just searched for yours and I couldn't find it either. Is yours an early model? mine car is Dec 2001 I think.
with the advent of ABS, I no longer follow the old bleed pattern because the rear brake lines are the same length and are not connected. the fronts are again, independent and not connected so what order is no longer important. crimping the brake lines is no longer recommended because of problems with the interior brake line wall delaminating from the outside wall. I don't compress the wheel cylinders because I use a vacuum on each line rather than pressure from the main reservoir. Never had any problems with ABS units using a vacuum. I would have pulled the abs unit and had it rebuilt before bleeding. My bosch unit differs in the plug spade location but looks exactly the same. Great video with lots of detailed information.
Thank you for the compliment. I'm always conscious when clamping the pipes as like you say I read it can sometimes be enough to cause an issue within the pipe that can lead to locked brakes. As I'm not a qualified mechanic I have to stick to the the exact instructions in the manuals so I'm not giving out misleading information. This is where a qualified mechanic with experience can advise a lot better than I.
@Roy Saxton The bosch unit is very different internally to the ATE unit... and externally. You should still follow the furthest from the MC first rule as physically most systems with an offset MC ate still best bled longest to shortest pipe run. You won't find anyone who will 'rebuild' the hydraulic side of the ABS system but you will find companies who will rework and replace pcb and components as required. If you're crimping the brake lines you're doing it wrong. You gently CLAMP them, padded jaws (closed cell foam works well) set to barely clamp the lines is the way to go I needed.
@@CoatsandGaiters am winding you up mate just banter am in the army Scotland 🏴 good detailed video . My q7 abs pump is buggered so I need to do this for mine got the rosstech so will use the program to bleed the brakes got the Sealey pressure bleeder on order to
@@garyalcorn3831 Thank you for that Gary. I do admit my on camera persona is probably a bit bland though haha The ABD pumps can be a problem as the wires can break on the sensor inside. They can be sent off for repair or I ended up buying a second hand one off ebay to pass an MOT.
@@CoatsandGaiters I was planning sending away for complete strip down and rebuild compared to buying second hand as not sure how to recode it . Was it your pump in the end that was shot after doing all this brake bleeding ? Did you have to further bleed it after replacing the pump aswell?
@@garyalcorn3831 I re soldered my pump by opening it up as sometimes that works but their is a sensor inside with wires as thin as human hair which can break after a while. As long as the new pump has the exact number on it would work but like you say you may have to recode so in a way it's better to send it off and get a guarantee and you know it's the right one anyway. The problem I had after removing the pump was purging the air out of the unit itself. This can require a diagnostic tool to activate the motor and the valves. Some have said to rag it around a car park braking hard to activate the ABS and hopefully clear the air out that way. My car passed an MOT but the pedal wasn't as hard as it was before removing the whole unit.
V.comprehensive video. But how do you clean the Sealey brake pressure bleeder out afterwards? I imagine a thin film of brake fluid will be left on the inside walls, which will absorb moisture & contaminate new brake fluid at the next change.
@@One_over_the_eight - Haha, sounds that way. But absorbing a mere 2-4% makes a brake fluid change necessary. Whereas trying to use a lot of water to wash away a small amount of brake fluid is an altogether different proposition.
Thank you for the upload! It has given me more reassurance about the process! When you purchased the Sealey bleeding tool, did you have to order the cap separately? Just wondered if it was a different size for the R50s as its linked separately in the description? Thanks
Thank you for the comment. If I can recall it was only the universal cap with chains that might have been an optional extra. It comes with a 42mm cap which apparently fits most European cars.
That's how I have always known it, so unsure why the manual said it slightly differently unless they didn't account for right hand drive when writing the manual.
@@koperety that's still usually the furthest wheel from the master cylinder as the MC is usually virtually still on top of the ABS valve block (as you say, manifold).
I couldn't say as I think it opens the valves and operates the pump in a sequence. I've read some suggest taking the car to a car park and driving it fast then slam on the brakes to operate the ABS normally which might purge any air out.
@@CoatsandGaiters Probably ,it's a shame it didn't work after the Hrs of work put in ,either the board has another fault or there is a wiring fault to one of the sensors
@@LOTPOR0402 I know, I read that their is a deceleration sensor inside with very fine hair like wires to it and they fail. I've assumed it might be that. I keep looking on eBay for my exact model number as I would buy one and then take this one completely apart for RU-vid.
@@withgrowinginsanity198 I'm not sure now as I sold that Renault. Sorry. They seem pretty standard. Was access really tight. There was one car I couldn't get access to the top with the pipe on.
I did have some fun and games with the ABS. Trying to remove a broken wheel hub sensor I used a drill and cut the magnetic inductor ring so had to buy a new bearing !!!! ahhhhh
@@CoatsandGaiters I had it happen to me on the front so I had to drill it out or replace the entire carrier but thankfully I got lucky.. only after replacing 4x speed sensors and all 4x hubs did I get the trifecta to turn off.. check my channel. I git 2x minis , ones 300+whp and other is coming along
Sadly not. I went straight onto removing the engine series. If I get a diagnostic reader at some point I will take another look at it. I’m assuming it’s the velocity sensor but don’t actually know.
@@CoatsandGaiters Might be worth getting a dcan cable and a copy of ista. In fact I can sort you out with a working version of ista. It's a revelation!
@@skylined5534 Thank you so much for the offer but the Mini's have gone now and I now have Renault Lagunas and that Peugeot 207 still. I managed to get hold of a second hand Autel 808 after the laptop one gave up on me.
@@CoatsandGaiters Ahh no worries! Good luck with the Rens, I've had several over the years now and while they're not trouble free sometimes they're nowhere near as unreliable as some would have you believe! Thanks for all the videos you've made regarding the Minis, they've helped me a lot to resolve several issues on my missus's R50 Cooper. Narrowed the ABS light trio (quartet if you count the traction light!) Down to I think two duff abs magnetic rings on the left! Fingers crossed replacing the stuffed ones will resolve it! Edit: just had a look at those Autel 808s... they look awesome! Supposed to be really good bits of kit from what I've read.
@@skylined5534 My wife has always had Renault Lagunas and took them to 150k miles before changing them. I used to joke about them but they never went wrong. She has just upgraded again to her 6th Laguna and I'm now driving her old one to do some HGV work to supplement RU-vid. It has 174,000 miles on. Nothing has ever gone with with it apart from usual suspension and brake parts. Original turbo, clutch, exhaust etc. M9R diesel engine's seems to be really good. We still have a Mini in the family so may still do the occasional video but the problem is I need the cars for a few days to make a video and I don't have a courtesy car to give people haha
