Using pipe cleaner and small, rigid airline. Insert a short piece of pipe cleaner in one end of the rigid airline. Use this to scrub crevices and twist hair algae around and dispose of pipe cleaner and attached algae.
100% shrimp safe. Yes, seachem excel is gluteraldyhyde but I think that’s the most expensive option imo. Get api co2 booster as it’s much cheaper for the same thing. I belive aquaeon has one too, I’m using it now, aquaeon leafy green. Look up videos obviously, but the dosage should be on the bottle, although it’s pretty difficult to add too much unless you’re dumping the bottle in. Spot treat on algae. For major algae control, follow th instructions. My botttle says 1 pump per 5 gallons, not sure about ml. If you’re doing it for overall algae growth, it must be used consistently to see results, not an instant fix. Same thing with hydrogen peroxide, just have to be slightly more careful. But it is sage for shrimp, at least neocaridina. Hydrogen peroxide breaks down into water over a couple hours in a tank, but it’ll also produce oxygen, so that’s why it can be toxic.
100% shrimp safe. Yes, seachem excel is gluteraldyhyde but I think that’s the most expensive option imo. Get api co2 booster as it’s much cheaper for the same thing. I belive aquaeon has one too, I’m using it now, aquaeon leafy green. Look up videos obviously, but the dosage should be on the bottle, although it’s pretty difficult to add too much unless you’re dumping the bottle in. Spot treat on algae. For major algae control, follow th instructions. My botttle says 1 pump per 5 gallons, not sure about ml. If you’re doing it for overall algae growth, it must be used consistently to see results, not an instant fix. Same thing with hydrogen peroxide, just have to be slightly more careful. But it is sage for shrimp, at least neocaridina. Hydrogen peroxide breaks down into water over a couple hours in a tank, but it’ll also produce oxygen, so that’s why it can be toxic.
While you can remove it through chemical filtration, which I prefer not to mess with, an overabundance of phosphate seems to be a common factor when dealing with BBA so I've found using fast-growing stem plants and doing frequent large water changes to be a big help, up to about 50% of the water column weekly. Additionally not all cyanobacteria are created equally, there are multiple species with different weaknesses and it can be impossible to know which you have. Something that has worked in the past for me has been a low dose of barley straw extract which is usually marketed for algae reduction in ponds.
I decided to let mines grow along side my java moss. It looks cool now as it moves with the water flow and when fish swim near by like one of those soft coral. Live life stress free.
I had a lot of BBA in my cycled 110L aquarium with 600L/h pump and decently sized filter. I could not get rid of BBA with any combination of nutrients and light. A month ago my aquarium started to leak at the top, so I removed water and currently around 70L of water is inside. I also replaced filter with smaller one with very little flow because the large one did not fit aquarium with less water. Now different algae took over aquarium: diatomae and cianobacteria, but no sign of BBA can be seen. In both cases aquarium had good water quality (0 NH3, NO2 ...) and fish were also in great health, maybe even better now that there is more life in aquarium since there is a lot of natural food (algae). So I would agree that little flow and small filter influences algae growth, but it is not a bad thing, as long as they are regularly cleaned.
Love it! Very informative! I don’t know exactly what kind of algae is taking over my tank, but playing it safe waiting for baby shrimp, don’t want to dostupt that, so will wait for them to grow a little to start ridding the tank of eyesores. Until then, a little extra food!! Love the video🤙🏻
Hi Logan: This is the first episode that I've watched and I am so impressed by your knowledge and eloquence in algae control! However, you seem to either ignore /or neglect the most common solution: Polyquat, also known as Poly [Oxyethylene (Dimethyliminio) Ethylene (Dimethyliminio) Ethylene Dichloride], an active ingredient in all types of algae removers, algaecide and control. Polyquat works by lowering the water tension around and split opens the algae cells. I am currently using Top Fin Algae Remover to remedy my DU PETRIFIED LILY CRYPT 55 Gallons Nano Aquascape with Hydroponic System containing over 60 species of plants and over 175 nano fish (Galaxy Rasboras, Dwarf Emerald Rasboras, Glass Catfish, Emperor Tetra, etc...) First dose - according to guideline for 55 gallons - did not do anything to the algae. The second dose - increase to 5ml (60 gal guideline) /or half cap - seem to stun those stubborn beard algae on leaves. (Fish, snails & ghost shrimps still okay). Can you do more research and make another episode explaining the benefits and harmful risks of using polyquat? Appreciative Kenneth.................. RESULT AFTER 1WK OF TREATMENT: After one week of treatment according to guideline of skipping 2 days with a slight increase in dosing, ALL stubborn beard & hair algae eradicated! The regular green algae that coat plant leaves and hydroponic plant roots nearly gone. All FISH AND NERITE & BLADDER SNAILS SURVIVED; however, all the ghost shrimps and Malaysian snails killed. Polyquat is clear and leaves no stain or residue.
I got staghorn algae so going try lowering my lights for a month like this says and do another water change through the week. I am also going add more plants
I just started a fresh water 10 gal about 4 wk ago. So far so good. Purchased 3 types of buce from you ;) My base is sand for my cory cats, I was afraid of anything hurting their barbles. Used some bladder snails to start with and anubias. Added some cheap feeder guppies after they were in quarantine for 2 weeks, and just added my corydoras. Parameters are all good. I want to add some wood but it is still not saturated enough. Is it ok to add it in later with more epiphanies attached?
I see your all about a dang toothbrush, I was looking for a plant or fish to put in to get rid of it, or maybe some advice on how to dial in my light or what to do to prevent it
For a blackout, we recommend keeping your tank in complete darkness for 72 hours. No need to remove your fish, they will be okay without feeding during this time! You may add an extra airstone if you are worried about lack of oxygen.
My tip would be using hydrogen peroxide direct on hard scape after reducing the tank water to 80% when the hard scape is seen, will work 💯 for sure but do not apply on any plants.
I live in South Florida & am trying to keep an outdoor aquarium on my back porch. It’s in the shade of the house , but as it’s outdoors, it gets a lot of indirect sunlight. I was getting a lot of cloud like algae at the bottom of the tank that would grow quickly. I was doing suction removal almost daily. Even with algae control drops & tank clarifier. I moved the fish & am now growing grass seed to fill the tank with more plant life, but is there anything I can do prevent this from happening again ? It’s outside, so light control is limited
The cause is a simple imbalance in the competition between aquatic plants and algae for nutrients and light. A lack of a single nutrient, like nitrate or phosphate, can inhibit plant growth and tip the scales toward green dust algae. Too long of a photoperiod can also stimulate this kind of algae.