On the subject of PH... it is worth noting that the pH scale is logarithmic - not linear. What this means is pH6 is 10 times more acidic then pH7. Likewise pH8 is 10 times more alkaline the PH7. this means the difference pH6 and pH8 is 100 fold. That's why a sudden shift from 6 to 8, or 8 to 6, is so damaging. Such a change needs to be done slowly so the inhabitants have time to adjust. A 50% water change with wildly different pH water can be lethal. Also... the water in the aquarium can change slowly over time (pH, hardness, etc) - and because the fish can adapt to slow changes, they might not exhibit signs of stress until the water has swung to very extreme levels. A sudden 50% water change to 'fix' a problem may kill the fish which is already struggling from these extremes. I think regular water testing is vital to spot the smaller change and make the smaller adjustment...
Liked the video-simple and straight forward. With my water of GH 31, KH 20, TDS 755 and ph 7.6 about two of the few successes are with stalactites and stalagmites. Living in an apartment means purchasing distilled water, which certainly starts to add up. How about a video on the best hard water plants?
How about a video on low KH and PH but high GH? I would rather not start buying chemicals and chasing parameters since KH is already so low. The PH is usually 6.5 GH 120 and a KH of 20. Thanks, I am learning so much and truly enjoying the beautiful videos.
It also shouldn’t be too hard to get in touch with your municipal/local water plant. I call mine on the regular, not for fishkeeping, but because I run a water purifier in my lab. They are always upfront with questions on changes and current/normal perimeters of the water supply. Be nice! Explain your issue and the info you want and they will most likely tell you.
Would you recommend using drift wood and crushed coral together, I have tank set up for shrimp and plants with only driftwood. but ph is 6.5~.8, depending on water change, I think I need to go higher would you agree
How about phosphates? I'm fighting algae in a 125g. I've been told to get my phosphates down to 0, they're at 2 now. I have a large amount of phosgaurd in my fx4 but it still seems to not adjust phosphates down. Also, to lower kh, I put in a large bag of peat moss. My kg went from 11 and is stable at 8. I'm really discouraged by BBA. I can almost clear it out but it keeps coming back.
Just doing some testing today during minor maintenance and I decided to check TDS, GH & KH. My TDS out of tap is 130ish. My TDS inside of my tanks is 250ish. Is this normal? My GH in the tanks is 150ish
I am new to this hobby and learned the hard way that my water is extremely hard(betta fish died after 8 months. With the help of a local pet store we are slowly bringing down the levels, by adding 1 gallon distilled and 1/2 gallon tap water. My snail and plants see fine in my 5 gallon tank. Presently, ph 7.8, Gh 8 and Kh 6. I was thinking of some endlers and neocardina shrimp? Do you think they would be ok in those parameters or another Betta?
I have a well in South Florida which just means I have liquid rocks for water. I am new to the area and just getting my fish room up and running. As soon as possible I will ad a whole house RO system which based on my research will solve a majority of my problems. In the mean time, my PH is at 7.8+, GH & KH are off the charts. Is there a solution to lowering the KH & GH to acceptable levels other than buying bottled purified water. The bottled water would be okay if I only had a 10 or 20 gallon tank but with 40+ tanks at 20+ gallons each the time, effort and expense is not reasonable.
You recommend 120 to 150mg/l TDS while at the same time suggesting 4 to 8 dGH and dKH. Not sure how you bring these together since 3dGH (~1meq/l) will result in ~120mg/l TDS.
There is a difference in tds sticks. The really cheap ones at $15-20 die quickly. The more expensive ones around $50-80 are meant to last, easy to recalibrate, and reliable as long as it doesn’t dry out (recalibrate if it does).
Interesting stuff. I'm new to aquariums, but not new to balancing and maintaining swimming pool water. In the pool world, I use baking soda to raise PH, and muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate to lower PH. Would this also work for an aquarium? I also watch phosphate content. Phosphates are food for algae, and created by the breakdown and decomposition of organic matter. If I take away the food for the algae, the algae won't survive. How does this work in a planted aquarium? I would imagine that the plants also need some level of phosphates to live...
Although we are not chemists by any means, baking soda can be used to raise pH (but keep it mind that it also adds carbonate hardness and will increase kH as well), we cannot speak on the items mentioned to lower pH. Typically pH is lowered with CO2 and buffering aquasoils like UNS controsoil. Aquatic plants rely heavily on macronutrients and indeed need phosphates. The key is to find the balance where the aquarium plants can outcompete the algae for these resources.
@@BucePlant Thank you for the detailed response, and don't worry I'm not going to start applying pool technics in my aquarium. I'm four days in to setting up my first tank. Initially on day one, my GH was 120ppm, KH 80ppm and PH 7.0. Today four days later, GH is at 60, KH 40, and PH 6.5. I did a 30% water change and retested, but the results are the same. I feel like I should do something to get the GH and KH back up.
@@wisdomSPhow did this resolve? I am in the same situation with the acidity in my tank breaking down the gh/kh all the time. I am thinking of adding a gh product to the water and crushed coral (for kh) to the filter.
@@philliphart6327 Thanks for the reply. I wouldn't add anything to your tank that isn't meant for aquariums without extensive testing or advice from an experienced fish keeper. I don't really have a recommendation, other than follow the advice from seasoned pros and/or the directions for the products you choose. I know quite a few folks who use crushed coral with great success, but I have zero experience with products that adjust Gh. I have found that most of the parameters are not as critical as you think as long as they aren't way off. Ask @BucePlant. They will likely have the answers you seek.
Great Video !! I have a question . Just getting into the neocaridina shrimp hobby , now that I know they need around gh:8 kh:4 ph:7 I am in the process of adjusting my water parameters . I run a whole house water filter , and it gives me these values in my tank . Ph: 6.6 GH:40ppm kh:20 ppm measured with liquid tests . So very low ph and gh , ph is ok , I decided to get shrimp GH/KH + to adjust my parameters , but there is one problem with this .. How can I adjust the parameters slowly enough not to stress my fish, shrimp and plants that are already living in the tank ? Jumping from gh 20ppm to gh 150 or more ppm is it going to be safe ? Same with KH ? I just got a bunch of plants from you guys and they are doing absolutely amazing right now in these parameters and I do not want to mess these beautiful christmass mosses and monte carlo up , but I do want to breed the shrimp in there as well so its got to be right for them too . Whats the best solution to this problem ? Except of being more patient before adding stuff to the tank ? 🤣
Neocaridina are very adaptable and flexible shrimp. Your water parameters are within tolerable specs for them. Even Caridina breeds have gotten more hardy nowadays and it's just the newer and higher-end breeds that need very specific water parameters. It might be a good idea to just try a few shrimps first to test it out, but Neos are known for being very hardy and should be perfectly happy.
I have a 20g planted tank. My tap water is 7.0ph, 3-4kh and about 150 TDS. I have noticed after about 48 hours my KH will drop to 0, Ph will drop to lower 6 range and my TDS will increase about 20ppm per day. What causes this fluctuating? I top off water when needed and do about a 20% water change per week. Any help?
Hmm that is interesting, we might need a little more info to help you out. What kind of substrate are you using in the tank? How long has the tank been running? Do you have some driftwood or something that heavily stains the water with tannins?
@5:00 you say that having/keeping an GH value of 120-150 ppm is ideal. I have the API - 6 in 1test strips that measures GH in freshwater Aquariums and when I test for GH, the little blue square turns dark blue and complies to the highest level of GH value according to the color comparison chart on the outside of the plastic bottle the strips are held in. This indicates that the GH value is at the highest level. Up until the time I watched this video, I was in n a panic to get the GH level down ..now, not so sure if I need to (pH is at 7.0 BTW!)
The test strips are known for having unreliable accuracy, if you have a concern about your gH levels specifically, it may be a good idea to go buy a test specifically for gH that uses reagents that you mix into a water sample. Having said that, if your aquarium is healthy and all the inhabitants are happy, it may be better to do nothing. Often times chasing specific numbers causes owners to make drastic changes that do more harm than good!
after looking at my local water. they have like 20 different reports of cancer agents........... bottled water and rain water mixed is what i moved to.
Good to know that it’s not the end of the world if my plants are in acidic water. The only plants that I seem to be unable to keep alive or melts almost immediately are those Amazon swords 😅.
Can we get an advanced, not as simple as possible video for us biochemists, biologists, chemists out there? Like do some maffs (math) and work with re-mineralizing RO and doing some calculations to finely control what one puts in?
Quite the contrary, we are helping people understand these parameters so they can be sucessful! Discouraging is when a beginner has issues and can't figure out why, with no reliable source of information to learn how to resolve them! :)
