I noticed you can adjust it "live". While in a Iracing session, Alt-tab out of it and open the YAML file. Adjust the number on your brake padel. Go back to iRacing -> Options -> Click on the pedals calibration button -> Click Back to get out. It reloads the YAML file that you just changed . So no need to restart the game and makes it easy and quick.
Thanks David for the info and for those of us that use the Fanatec V3's plugged into the wheel base it will not work as you have it in the video. Our V3's when we calibrate in iracing the slider goes from 65535 to 0. So instead of increasing the max value in this example to 78642, decrease the 20% as a negative number in the min value. in this example, you would change min value from 0 to -13107 and dont change the center or max values. in case you want to add this info for other situations like this. Again, thanks for the info
Thank you James. The problem that was bothering me has been solved. I checked the Use for this car and set it to the following settings. (decrease the 10%) - Axis: 1 AxisName: 'Brake' CalibMin: -6553 CalibCenter: 65535 CalibMax: 65535
If you are trying to do this on a G27, G29 and wondering why it isn't working, it's because the 'zero input value' is the opposite end of the scale i.e. 255 on the G27 is zero brake force rather than 0. To get around this, you need to set the opposite i.e. CalibMin: to -50, rather than increasing calibmax (which will keep the brake applied the entire time). Changing the minimum from 0 to -50 worked. Hope this helps.
Something to note, this doesn’t work with load cell. However it does work if u set ur max past the hardest u can possibly press it, but it’s not quite the same.
This video explains this 'trick' properly and thank you to the commenter who mentioned adjusting toward the negative scale. My CSL pedals output are reversed where 0 is the max. Thank you Dave for mentioned to check the 'Use custom controls for this car' option.
I read somewhere on here about not using this adjustment and if you can`t drive without locking up the brakes to keep practicing or quit racing. Let me start by saying that i have put in tons of practice time on the road courses (like years) with the G27 and no matter what i tried the brakes would lock up at a certain point, guys could out brake me by car lengths, you are not going to win, place decent or even have fun if you can`t be competitive or get the car to work the way you want it to. I now have the T300RS GT wheel and pedals and i`m have the same problem. Now do i think it`s me thats messing up, ya i do/did but like i said i`ve tried everything i can think of and put so much practice time in that i now think it`s got to be the pedals. I used this adjustment for the HPD and it did wonders, felt so much better and realistic. Not sure about your daily driver or race car but mine does not lock up when i jam on the brakes for a corner, someone slowing in front of you etc. With all the computer adjustments the the real race cars have these days (F1 Indy etc) this is nothing, i would almost think iRacing should put this in the garage. My problem now is it`s not working in the BMW M8 not matter what way i go, up or down. My default setting for the T300RS GT brake pedal is 1023, any idea`s on why it`s not working now? Thanks for all the video`s David, keep up the great job. Also thanks to everyone for adding there tips.
for logitech it is inverted, so calibmax and calibcenter will be 255 and calibmin 0, for you to limit your brake you must touch the calibmin, as the example below.(using 40% of the brake on This exemple) DeviceName: 'Logitech G27 Racing Wheel USB' InstanceGUID: '{53C8F960-77EB-11E8-800E-444553540000}' AxisList: - Axis: 0 AxisName: 'Wheel axis' CalibMin: 0 CalibCenter: 8192 CalibMax: 16383 - Axis: 2 AxisName: 'Brake' CalibMin: -60 CalibCenter: 255 CalibMax: 255 - Axis: 3 AxisName: 'Accelerator' CalibMin: 0 CalibCenter: 255 CalibMax: 255 - Axis: 4 AxisName: 'Clutch' CalibMin: 0 CalibCenter: 255 CalibMax: 255 comment here if you don't understand G25,g27,g29 and g920
Cool idea, I won't use it because I want the sim to be as realistic as possible and to make sure my muscle memory is good, but nice trick. I've actually fixed my brakes tonight, mainly for F3. I've been playing with the brake performance kit on my V3s and couldn't get it to work properly in iRacing, then figured out I had Force Factor at 1.6 (which I've now set to 0) but more importantly in the config of my Pedals in Fanatec software I hadn't remapped the min and max so it was going off my last settings, I'd just had to get used to it. I've remapped now and it's so much better, braking is progressive and locking is much less of an occurrence. I was doing 1:35s in the F3 at this week's Catalunya with the weird brake setup as I'd adjusted to it but even faster now having got it done properly, but even this took some getting used to! Keep up the great videos mate I've referenced them a few times!
Thanks a lot Liam for the support. That sounds great mate and glad you are all hooked up. I am new to my loadcell pedals but really happy so far! Hope to see you out on the track.
Right now I have a VERY cheap setup and where the pedals don't offer the best in the way of modulating Pedals. This is HUUGE and game changing for me using GTE instead of GT3 cars in IMSA ... ty so much man GREATLY appreciated
I have the T150. I watched another video of another pedal set, but they used rubber 'cups' to add resistance to the brake pedal. I recently did something similar. I took a rolled up towel and placed it behind the brake pedal...wow....what a difference. I have brake pedal resistance now.
I have the t150 as well and bought the recent t lcm pedals. I had to re-learn breaking, but it's worth the upgrade. I think upgrading the pedals are more important than the wheel.
Great video again. Actually heusinkweld sprint pedals come with smartcontrol software where you can adjust all of your pedals curves and endpoints on the fly. Anyway I really enjoy your videos, hope there was this kind of channels full of information when I started iracing.
OMG! You totally saved me there. I was thinking of cancelling my iRacing subscription because I could not for the life of me get my braking to work on my Thrustmaster T150 pedals. This totally saved the day for me. Awesome!
WoW. So this is how they all break soo relaxed. Thank for the video, its a very good thing from you, leveling the fields. Confirm with T-300 this line: Axis: 1 AxisName: 'Y Axis' CalibMin: -250 ( here you adjust for your neesds ) thanks again
Edit - the post from James saved the day, the same setting goes for the G29. Center and Max stay 55, change CalibMin to a negative number like this: AxisName: 'Brake' CalibMin: -25 CalibCenter: 255 CalibMax: 255 -------------------------------------------------------- Did anybody with a G29 get this working? I changed the values in all directions but the only result that I can get is that the brakes only start working after you press them in for 20%, like having a huge deadzone. The default Yaml settings for the G29 are: AxisName: 'Brake' CalibMin: 0 CalibCenter: 255 CalibMax: 255 Also somehow there are Logitec settings in my Yaml file, one with all pedals except the clutch and one for all pedals including the clutch. Just to be sure I changed the Brake settings under both devices.
you just made my day I'm having that same problem,thought lowering the brake bias would make it better but it's just longer braking and losing time So this tip makes it much much better,i'm racing the same car so thank you very much :)
This functionally isn't much different than "over calibrating" your brake on cheap setups like the G920, with the rubber bump stop near the end of the travel. I did this myself, simply due to the potato nature of the G920 pedal, when trying to find the last couple tenths. It's basically adjusting brake pressure, which is something one would do in a real racecar anyway. I mean, you could prob save 0.2 a lap by mapping your clutch to a button, rather than using the iRacing auto-clutch. If anything, these kinds of creative uses of the SIM, are themselves a simulation of what real race teams do to find time on the track. I suspect this might be helpful for drivability to us average drivers, but for the 10K aliens out there, it would make them slower. Their ability to modulate brake pressure is a key element to their skill and speed.
Indeed you are correct. Really just a tool to help anyone struggling with their setup or the car. For sure this is not needed at all by the fast guys. Load cell pedals mitigate the need really for this. Thanks for your comment :)
I had some time to experiment with this but unsure which section to tinker with. as I have only the G29 wheel and pedals, there are 2 instances of it, the only difference is the 1st section of joycalib.yaml lists Wheel Axis, Y axis, Brake, and Accelerator, the 2nd section has Wheel axis, Brake, and Accelerator. also the brake values are 0-255
David - great video! I don’t think there should be any shame in doing this, I believe (based on cars I’ve driven) that the ease of lock ups are unrealistic in and of themselves. Especially now proper race cars with slicks. I get having to pussyfoot a vintage car on bias ply tires, but not a modern race car. Not that locking should be impossible, but at higher speeds especially it should t be a given. I struggled in the Porsche Cup car with this until I gained some muscle memory. I may try this in the Porsche. I won’t go to the point where it can’t lock up - I think it should be able to, but maybe 85-90% might be a more realistic sweet spot.
Cool that you found out something like that. I wouldn't use that hack. I chose iRacing because it is very realistic and with such a modification you take away a piece of reality. Of course in reality there are also possibilities to adjust the brake pressure of a race car. I am not sure if it is comparable. For me it is clear that if I can't control the car without such an adjustment, then I have to practice more or stop SimRacing. This is just my personal and honest opinion. Keep up the good work, I like your videos very much and they help a lot. Thanks for that.
Hello, first of all thanks for this trick its very usefull for me, i just started iracing a month ago and i had some problems with tyres locking. I’m doing sim racing for 4 years now and i have to say that i don’t find iracing very realistic on the braking aspect. I had the opportunity to test the french formula 4 cars at le mans and i can assure you that the pressure that you have to put on the braking pedal is unbelievable otherwise the car is just not controllable and with this trick i have to push harder on the brakes which reminds me the real feeling on the pedal. Even more strange i don’t get why the tyres locking happens at something like 80% (On a straight line we imagine) i feel that i’m loosing 20% of what my pedals can give me of pressure and precision in terms of braking, in my opinion if you run on this sim game with the basic braking setup i feel that the pressure is absolutely not real. Thanks again for the video and for sharing your opinions.
It's something that should be available in the base game. I can put a rubber stopper on my T3PA pedals, for example, at the 80% mark and do the same thing manually. W/o that adjustment on your pedals you are at an equipment disadvantage, in other words, paying money to be faster and that's not how it should be. This adjustment comes with most modern race cars other than barebones beginner models anyway and should be in the base game as it is in most other games.
Hi, thanks for the vid, but, I've the CSL Elite loadcell pedals and it doesn't seem to matter what I put in the yaml file the braking meter still fills up. Is it because I'm using the Ferrari evo gt3 with ABS? I can lock the brakes if I turn ABS off completely. Even set to level 2 out of 12 I'm able to stand on the brakes without locking. Hmmm...
Cut 7 seconds of my lap time at Phillip Island in the ZB. My lap time is still slow but, I did get faster lol If you don't have load cell pedals I'd recommend this to help with modulating lock up.
This is like a big thing as braking in iracing is nearly impossible and I was wondering how can people brake so hard. Would you say this is just exploit or actually cheating in the game? I wonder if iRacing actually will fix this or not.
if you have Heusinkveld Sprint pedals you can adjust this in the software of your pedals too (for instance you can configure 80% pressure equals to 100% input). So I don't think this is considered cheating.
Got it working but have a question, if say I have it working with one car and then want to do it with another car. I would need to re-calibrate the second car? would that not return the 1st cars settings to default? In turn, the trick only works with one car at a time?
wow awesome tip. i need this so bad always locking up but im gonna try one more time with new tire model. im never gonna be an alien driver so Im gonna use this tool most likely thanks David
FYI, since the BMW M8 locks up at about 80% pedal input, you'll want to take your pedal count (6500 or so) and divide by 0.8, not multiple by 1.2. If you multiple instead of dividing, you're decreasing your desired percentage that iRacing is perceiving your pedal input. I hope that was easy to follow, let me know if I need to explain better. Otherwise, great video, this could help my buddy who doesn't have a load cell (sending it to him now).
Thanks. Glad you liked the video. It depends on pedals. Fanatec goes up like I did, Thrustmaster goes down like you are doing. I have the Fanatec CSL Elite Loadcell pedals and you need to move the number up to reduce. Every pedal uses different mapping mathmatics.
Dividing by 0.8 is the same as multiplying by 1.25. The latter is the reciprocal of the former, that is (1/0.8)=1.25. We can prove this by 100/0.8=125 and is the same as 100x1.25=125. I think David meant to multiply by 1.25 instead of 1.2 to be exact. If the factor used was 1.2, it would have meant that the brakes locked up at 0.83333333 or 83.3333333% - (1/1.2)=0.8333333.
Very good and useful tip David. I know it can be useful and I believe a number of these aliens out there or near aliens are using it. Further, I can imagine that once there are similar files within other sims they can be adjusted likewise. 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Great tip for cars without ABS mate! I only just got back into iracing yesterday and bought the M8 straight away. This will deffo help so thanks for uploading. Also BIG thanks for your other tips and settings vids, they were very helpful. Hope you don’t mind if I add you on iracing? Keep up the good work and maybe I’ll see you on track sometime in the future!
Trying to help a friend of mine with V3 pedals. His joyCalib file shows min 0, center 65535, and max 65535. He gets lock up even after he releases the pedal. He tried to change center to 0, but it locks up as soon as he touches his pedals. Any clue to this?
This is the getto version of what Heuzinkvelds have in their software. Great stuff tnx as I did it with my v3 by pressing harder and set it to max. What sucks when you want to drive different classes! So this is legend
Great tip, but a question if i may The min on my pedals isn't 0, it's around 200, should i change it to 0? Cheers Keep up the good work, much appreciated
Hi David Thanks so much for this content I am struggling with braking on Iracing I have the G920 peddle set and since the updates I am not able to drive the car without brakes locking up. I have tried your suggestions but still have no good feel of the peddle at all. Any ideas ?
Great ABS tip video! I usually am not a big fan of brakes locking up. So when I do ever get a chance to play iRacing, I can follow your tips and see how my braking and steering matches with my wheel. My wheel isn't that great, it's only a cheap one. Other than that, this is a useful vid for ABS.
Another RU-vidr did something similar but instead of multiplying Y-axis by 1.20, they divided Y by .77%. What's the difference? Is one more accurate than the other?
I too was having the same issue - Our V3's when we calibrate in iracing the slider goes from 65535 to 0. So instead of increasing the max value in this example to 78642, decrease the 20% as a negative number in the min value. in this example, you would change min value from 0 to -13107 and dont change the center or max values
I've tried everything with my Logitech Driving Force GT and it does not work. So I'm wondering why just putting a shim under your pedal to keep you from depressing the brake pedal 100% wouldn't have the same effect?
Hello Dave, I really appreciate all your videos. Very entertaining and informative at the same time. I just got my fanatec V3 pedals and base. I have been trying to get this to work for me but it hasn’t. You say connect the pedals to the PC, but the connector is like a phone connector at the end. Not a USB connector. Another guy gave you a reply and said change the min to -1307 oran something. I tried that also and it hasn’t worked. Have you heard anything else about the V3 petals in trying this adjustment. I am running to Porsche cup now and I see guys diving into the corners and not locking up. wondering why. Now I know. Please HELP!
I can no longer get this to work at all and it used to work, even with V3s plugged into computer (It can with phone connector a USB). I wonder i iracing changed it so it no longer works...?
I am trying to race the Porsche 911 RSR but the brakes lock up real easily. I tried changing the number as you suggested on this video but it did not make any difference. The brakes still lock up at exactly the same place. Have you tried this on the Porsche? Any further help would really be appreciated.
Only suggestions I have are A) make sure you are using custom controls for the car and B) do NOT re-calibrate the pedals or it resets. Also read some of the comments above as different pedals have different procedures for this trick
yes. and i used to do this but have gone back to 100% and modulate it myself because you can sometimes use full brake pressure, particularly at high downforce levels. then trail off into the corner
so, I could for example just give 8% ? that'd be at full pedal stomp, iracing thinks my brake position would be at 92% ? I can't get a handle on the FR2, so gotta try it
David.. I found this video last night and was immediately intrigued. I'm new to iRacing and using an old Logitech Driving Force GT setup that I had from my old Gran Turismo PS3 days. I am struggling with brake lockup and new pedals are definitely on my to-do list. I was hoping this would serve as a stop-gap until that happens, but this morning I tried it and noticed something strange about the joy-calib file. Both the brake and accelerator were shown as max 255. I edited the file to 306 as a first test and it seemed to have no effect. Then I noticed that the calibcenter value was also shown as 255, not 0 as it is on yours. I edited that to 0 and when I got in the game, it was showing my brake was depressed by about 80% even when I wasn't touching it... in order to get the car to move, I'd have to press the accelerator and also press the brake and when I pressed the brake, the pressure percentage went down. Thoughts?
David, How do you get these files onto the computer. Do you have to download it somewhere. I’m looking to do this to the Chevy nascar cup car ZL1 not sure how to access it?
Don't feel too bad about this, people like me actually have a similar method of doing this in Heusinkveld's software. And it's even more customizable. I wouldn't be surprised to find that Fanatec may be trying to make something of their own.
Hi, are you sure about that? No offence meant but it shouldn't matter how long you've been playing, the setup folder should still contain inputs like steering wheel etc for whatever car you use, as long as the use for this car check box is checked i'd say.
On my G920 pedal box, because the brake pedal is pressure sensitive I can do the same thing by varying how far down I press the pedal, but its not as accurate or repeatable as this method
Tried the Fanatec Load cell pedals plugged into the DD1 and it would not work ,in the end i found out the Fanatec load cells pedals need to be plugged into the PC and not the DD1 for this too work if anyone out there is struggling with this.
I must be doing something wrong. I have a G27 and when I open JoyCalib.yaml for the USF 2000 car I change the CalibMax: variable under the 'Brake' AxisName: from 255 to 306 and save the file. However when I go into a test session with the car iRacing resets the value to 255. What am I doing wrong? And I've got the "Use Custom Controls for this Car" box checked.
Interesting - however, at high speed full brake power may not lock the wheels, which may then happen as you slow down - esp on aero cars. This would thus increase stopping distances causing slower lap times wouldn’t it?
@@drnat07 True but there is a point where you will lock up and then you will loose lap time. Lots. There is no ABS on this car. So for example you just cannot use 90% brake in the M8 without locking up. Hope it helps. I am not using this as I have a loadcell pedal and don't really need it. The aim was to help people setup their car and If they have poor perfroming brake spring or should really help.
David Sampson Lock up force is variable depending on speed - skill is to break until jus before lock up for maximum retardation......hard to do & beyond my skill set certainly lol
@@drnat07 Yes for sure I get what you are saying. Sorry didn't understand you meant slow speed. As I tried to say in the video, this is not the answer, just a tool. Hope to see you out on track.
I feel guilty trying this, I feel like I should be learning to modulate my brakes properly, I don't know... I'm using iRacing to learn race craft (and basic racing skills) to start doing a real world series in the future...
@@danwellsracing Oh, I can imagine from trackdays in my own car. I'm just trying to not add bad habits. Really just there to learn the repetition and visual acuity
@@danwellsracing What can I do to make this as good a learning process as possible, in your opinion? I want it to be as accurate as it can given its limitations, to stop me developing bad habits before I start proper race tuition
@@DieTaube4 Even GTE car wouldn't lock like this when it has downforce. Driving the Porsche GTE car at Le Mans, you use half pressure everywhere in the braking zones... It's just not quite what it is in real life.
OK David I will have to try this in the V8 Supercar as I'm really struggling to pull it up quickly without locking up and distributing the tyres. I'm Very new to iracing so it could just be my inexperience in using the correct brake bias so if anyone has any ideas on how to overcome this in the Aussie Holden V8 Supercar, please, Please PLEASE HELP LOL 🏎🏁
