David Boyd, second generation of Boyd Clocks, walks us through the process of cleaning and oiling your clock, its pivots, bushings, and shafts. Featuring Grandpa Boyd's Formula '49 Clock Oil.
You usually disassemble clocks and clean the plates, wheels excreta in an ammonia biased cleaner. Old simple clocks are a lot easier to do then complicated three train clocks. After cleaning and reassembly you oil them of course, then they can be oiled every few years but will eventually need to be properly cleaned again at some point. What he is doing is ok but is more of a band aid. It's like putting oil in your car; the most important thing is you don't run the car low or out of oil. There are not many people who could take that movement apart and get it back together correctly, so there is that too. A mans got to know his limitations. Good luck!
Jan 14, 2024 I've watched your video on grandfather clock mechanism cleaning (along with a host of other RU-vid videos on the subject). Today, I took the movement (which I had earlier removed from the clock) and cleaned and oiled it. I took my time and the work progressed without a hitch. Upon completion, I reinstalled the movement, face, weights, and pendulum. The clock now chimes all three tunes, gongs and accurately keeps time without any problems. Most of my time spent on this project involved watching RU-vid videos and taking notes on the subject before I started anything else. The cleaning and oiling work really is very straight forward. Oh, and I did find using toothpicks would work but the force required to clean old oil out of the pivot holes caused the toothpicks to splinter or break. Toothpick wood seems to be too soft for this work. A sharpened, small-diameter wood dowel with small pieces of old T-shirt worked great for me doing this cleaning work. My clock is a 1982 Ridgeway Grandfather 3-chime, 3-weight, chain-driven Clock with a Urgos UW 32 570 D movement. My clock movement uses a single 6.2-pound weight along with two (2) 4.6-pound weights and a 35" long pendulum with 6.5" dia. bob. I've taken the movement out of the clock case to clean and oil it with the intent of restoring the gong and chime functions. The process of removing the movement from your clock case is straight forward and uses tapered pins to hold the clock face to the movement. Thank you for the straightforward, nicely shot video (great lighting, angles and audio) on clock cleaning and oiling.
This video is absolutely amazing and I love all the little stories included. It's too bad RU-vid does not promote and push videos like this further and help the creators more
Thanks great video! I have a Herschede model 294 that is not chiming (unless I give the chime train gear a little push). Boulgt a replair manual ad is sounds liek I need to clean and oil. Your video helped me feel better about all of it. :)
Finally, I found someone who gave me Important information on cleaning and oiling. Thanks 🙏🏼. What was the brand cleaner that you use ? Again, thanks for the useful information.
Help! After sonic cleaning the movement while together and then rinsed in baking soda then hot water, how do I oil the movement to keep from rusting? Thank you.
I will answer. He doesn't seem to respond to questions. Lubrication holds dust and dirt. Only the wheels/gears of the moment get oil, and very little oil. So no to answer your question.
@@rparker2824 he weights are suspended with a thin wire mesh. I thought that a very thin layer of oil would protect them from oxidation and would help in the best winding - unwinding on the rollers. Thank you for your valuable help.
@@arkas6797 I see your point, no the cable should not get oiled. Now if the cable is damaged or binding due to age then replacing would be needed. It should be flexible, similar to a thin rope.
An ultrasonic cleaner with the proper solution would do a much better job. Complete disassembly is the proper way to clean and oil. Leaving any oily dirt/grease will act like an abrasive paste.
