How To Properly Install Drip Edge on your Roof -Jonny DIY 

How NOT to install a drip edge PROPERLY! ALL drip edge is held down via using some sort of nails or screws if you want it to STAY IN PLACE! Don’t just use some glue or tar crap. It’s supposed to be firmly attached to the WOOD, not shingles. Shingles should over hang drip edges by around 3/4” or so depending on application. But if you do this guys hack job you for sure want to add a tar under all that was pried up or with a strong wind you can get some serious or complete patches of your roof torn off in one gust since once shingles are installed they all become one due to the way they’re are designed using the tar that’s pre done on each shingle that most have no clue why is there. And front face screwing on a drip edge seems pretty pointless since you’re installing drip edge to prevent leaks and then create one by drilling or nailing holes in the side that water drips off. Don’t do any of what this guy does here really and call a pro or do it right yourself with lots of time, but easy work on a ladder which is safest or tie off on roof is best if possible.

Awesome. You're very welcome, happy to hear I helped you out 👍

Exactly! you are the only one who talked about how to do it with existing roof.

Seriously, this was the video I have been searching for! Why don't they talk about this! Thank you very much!

Thanks! Yes pet peeve of mine is when I see fresh roof work done where theyve mounted the drip edge right against the fascia boards 🤦‍♂️ you live and you learn! 🤙🏼

You're welcome, glad I could help 👍

You're welcome, happy to help. Good luck 👍

You're very welcome, happy to help 👍

Thank you! Glad the video was of help. Good luck with your project 👍🏻

Johnny DIY This is EXACTLY what I need to do as well. Do you recommend the roof sealant to hold it down?

@@coolhluke8089 Me too!

You're welcome, glad it was helpful 👍🏻

Thank you, glad to help 👍

You're very welcome, happy to help. Yes water leaks can be a little tricky to pinpoint where exactly they begin. You should be able to trace from attic if really get in there. Check for any staining on wood and look above higher in case leak has ran down then dripped onto that spot. Hope you get it sorted and fixed. Ohh yeah you guys get tons of rain, I have an Uncle in Beaverton and another in Oregon City

You're welcome, glad to help. Hey better late than never! 👍

Same here. Installed new gutters on house. No drip edge. I should be beaten! Thanks for the video!!

@@travismcreynolds3769 you're welcome glad I could help 👍

No need to beat yourself up. Most new roofing installs do not use drip edges cause it adds expense. I always install drip edges for obvious reasons, but a lot of roofers do not due to competitive pricing. If you want a drip edge, it has to be specified to the roofer. Cheers from Canada.

@@petemiller519that may explain the lack of drip edge on my house in North Bay, Ontario.

Thank you, and you're welcome, happy I could help you out 👍

Thank you & you're welcome, glad I could help 👍

Awesome, you're welcome, so glad I could help 👍

You're welcome, glad I could help you out 👍

Awesome, glad to help you out 👍🏻

Nice! Yeah drip edge is a vwry important part of the roof system, often overlooked or installed incorrectly. Good luck with the rest of your build

Jonny DIY thanks! Ya man, check out our channel and follow along!!

Thanks! Trying this tmr

Awesome, you're welcome. Glad I could help 👍

Thanks Terri! 😁👍🏻

Glad the video helped you out 👍🏻

You're welcome, glad I could help 👍

You're welcome, & thank you! 👍🏻

Awesome, happy to help 👍

Youre welcome 😀👍

Thanks Jim! 👍🏻

You're welcome 😀👍🏻

Thank you, happy to help 👍

Thank you! 🙌👍

Good catch, hope you can get it fixed before rainy season 👍

Glad I could help, sorry about the roof issues, hope they get fixed before the wet season

@@JonnyDIY he did three for me. The other two are fine, no issues. It’s gotten bad as we’ve been inundated with rain after several dry summers. Thanks for your videos! Will watch the others you have.

@@Dbb27 you're welcome! 👍

You're welcome, glad I was able to help you out and save you some money 👍

You're welcome, glad to help 👍

Thanks 😀✌

Yes, drip edge goes under on the eaves side and on the rake it goes on top 👍

you're welcome 👍🏻 good luck with the project

Yes thatll work fine 👍🏻

Yeah that sounds a lil trick but I'd probably just use reciprocating saw to cut the nails holding the fascia to the rafters and then pry down. If that didnt work Id pry up the old drip edge and cut all those nails (could use oscillating tool if reciprocating saw didn't work) holding it down and just replace it after the new fascia goes up 👍

Yes nail heads should be under shingles or if no choice but to have exposed covered with roof sealant/mastic/tar👍

In my part of the states it's just drip edge 👍

Yes if there's not proper overhang of your first course you could have that issue. And depending how little rain or dew there will be a little capillary action. Yes, I would use the sealant between the two in the areas that are concerning you 👍

Yes you're right. So many people install it right up against the fascia too

On the bottoms where gutters would be it goes underneath and on the sides it goes on top of underlayment

You're welcome. If you run into the problem of the drip edge hitting gutter brackets just cut a small notch making a little tab that you can just bend up clearing the bracket 👍🏻

You're welcome, glad to help 👍

You will need to cut a slit upwards on the corners of the drip edge to slip gutters up under. And for the mounting holes what I usually do is just cut 2 upward cuts the width of mount making a notch and fold it up then screw in mount and then fold notch down.

Ive had good luck using the loctite brand Pl premium 3x adhesive. I think that would work. It would either be that or a Roofing Sealant in a caulking tube, loctite makes one of those too

You could run new drip edge right over old stuff just get larger one or if you end up getting gutters youll never notice the drip edge 👍

You're right! Always so much more work going back and trying to fix something. Interesting, think I've only seen that a handful of times too 👍

It seems to be a thing in Florida. I’ve seen and have it.

Older houses have that 1x2 along the top of the facia, under the metal drip edge flashing. Unfortunately there are few videos showing how to easily replace facia and that 1x2 under existing metal drip edge flashing. The metal drip edge flashing is typically 2" wide at the top and the nails holding it are through the facia and/or the 1x2 from the top, undert the shingles.

@@realjwc9714 Hurricane Ian took off a section of my roof last year and I forgot to tell the roofer to leave that 1x2 off when he replaced it, so he put it back on as the original. It really hasn't been an issue, but I wanted to put aluminum fascia over the wood, but that 1x2 hinders that because of the gap it creates underneath. So what I did myself was nail a 2nd piece of fascia board over the first one, butting it up against the bottom of the 1x2 which now gives me a smooth solid surface for the fascia and/or even gutters. The aluminum fascia is wider than the wood and slides up under the drip edge, covering that butt joint so there's no leaks. My drip edge is quite tight against the fascia too. I did have to rip the 2nd fascia to the exact width so it fit flush with the bottom of the first, but that was no big deal. It works and looks great.

@@Dbb27 Yes, I'm in Florida too LOL. The addition on my house with this roof and 1x2 was built in the "50s.

Yes 1st course of shingles should extend beyond fascia. If you have a lot to do I would just hire a gutter guy that makes them onsite out of aluminum. Just try and get a couple bids as pricing can be all over. Good Luck 👍🏻

Yes not sure what type you're installing but some gutters dont need drip edge if theyre mounted up tight under shingles 👍

@@JonnyDIY TYVM!

Best bet is to go to roofing supply store, they'll have most resources

Cut a notch in drip on each side of it and bend up so the bracket can slip up into the channel👍

Either will work fine but I use PL Premium 👍

I have a video where I replace the wood fascia boards 👍 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l77NMEk496g.html

That's fine, a lot of people install it over tar paper especially on the rakes of the roof. It depends where you live how roofers do it as well and if dealing with ice and water shield. It's a secondary protection so even if water gets between shingles and drip edge somehow you'll still have tar paper under to protect it

You're welcome happy to help. Pretty sure it was this one from home depot. Gibraltar Building Products 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/2 in. x 10 ft. Galvanized Steel Drip Edge Flashing in White

@@JonnyDIY Thank you so much for getting back to me so fast!

@@patriciamurphy8425 you're welcome, happy to help 👍

Yes you could just screw or nail then cover heads with sealant. Ideally you nail from above through the top if you can, but its too difficult usually with old roofing and not worth risking damage

thank you for sharing 👍🏻

Yes if you have lots of leaves in area they can help a lot. Can always test how they work on a section one year to see how your native leaves work with particular guards 👍

If you can lift the shingles up enough, but sometimes they become too brittle so I'd then suggest either gluing with construction adhesive (loctite 3x premium) or face nail then put roofing sealant over nail

Yes the shingles on edge should have layed flat in 2 years. As long as they're not too curled it's fine. And they should slightly extend past edge of fascia

@@JonnyDIY Ty for the quick response. I’ll be following to watch all of your home improvement ideas.

@@JonnyDIY Yes they do extend past the facia. Ty

@@ehpennsylvania you're welcome, glad to help 👍

Any sort of roof and flashing sealant is good. Vulkem polyurethane sealant is great if they have it 👍

Thanks, I like learning and going to do mine when warmer.

You can face nail or screw the drip edge too, then just cover with roof sealant 👍

You're welcome, yes thats the most common mistake made installing drip edge. If its already up you can try slipping a larger putty knife or flat bar between fascia and drip and bend it outwards so the bottom of the drip edge isnt touching fascia 👍

Yes if you can slip the drip edge under the tar paper 👍

@@JonnyDIY Awesome thank you! That's what I just did! Glad that is the correct way!

@@NewShockerGuy you're welcome, glad I could help 👍

Cut small slit in drip edge for gutter brackets 👍

Should be able to pick it up at any big box or roofing specific building supply store. Ask for metal drip edge flashing and for the sealant ask for roof and flashing sealant in a caulking tube (makes it easy to use) 👍🏻

Could use some self drilling roofing screws to attach. Theyre weatherproof and create a seal

Hello Lizeth, I wouldn't worry too much, definitely needs to be addressed in the next year I'd say. If it were me I'd probably just remove gutters and slip back under drip edge. Call around and try and get at least 2 estimates, that way you can get a feel for the market pricing. Go with the one that seems the most competent about the job even if a bit more money 👍

Hmm it shouldn't be getting much between the two, but some will no matter what. If the drip edge runs over the lip into gutter there's no need to bend it out or gap it with a dowel. But if its shorter drip edge and theres a gap between the two itll need to hang over the gutter though. Last ditch effort I would get some quality silicone caulk, then clean and caulk a bead between fascia and gutter. Just get clear silicone, it'll hold up best and youll never see it

Are your gutters backing up?

Depends what kind of guards you have, but you want the drip edge over into the gutters so itll drip and drain into gutters. Or if the gutters are mounted below drip edge you want the drip edge bent away from fascia so itll drip into gutters and not back on fascia

Yes that'll work fine, try and tuck the back edge of gutters slightly under drip edge too 👍

@@JonnyDIY thank you so much

@@obscurevisuals you're welcome, glad I could help 👍

Yes its kind of difficult to get a nail under the shingles but if you slowly and gently pry up the shingles above the area you should be able to drive in a short roofing nail through both pieces into the roof. If you can't get one through the top you can always face nail one through the two pieces. Can use a screw on the face too. That's fine just cover it up with some silicone caulking or some Roofing sealant. I wouldn't worry about one nail hole 👍🏻

@@JonnyDIY That was my concern, water being able to penetrate around a nail if I were to face nail through the facia. Caulk wearing out over time and causing the fascia board to rot. I suppose no sooner than a new roof would be due anyway.

@@kcmaldonado3948 itll be fine the 1 nail or screw. 100% silicone holds up longest time. Doesn't shrink or crack 👍🏻

I seem to not have a choice. The sub fascia is a 2x6. On top of that is 1x8. On top of that is the thin metal rollex fascia. And it's all dropped about 3/4" lower and 3/4" further out than the roof decking.

I'd use either construction adhesive like Loctite PL Premium 3x or Loctite roof sealant PL S30 and face nail/screw every so often especially if high wind area and cover the heads 👍

You don't have to have fascia boards to install gutters. It's preferable though, if don't have them will have to screw into rafter tails (and those would be end grain)

If gutters clogged underneath it I remove the guard and clean

You can glue or face nail/screw. If you do that just cover the heads with some silcone type sealant and itll be fine 👍

@@JonnyDIY I’m going to try to get under the shingle first. Thanks for the reply 👍

@@zachdavis2641 You're welcome, good luck 👍

check out a tool called the roof snake that is going to be how I add a drip edge to my roof with existing shingles

@@cam4592 thats a cool tool, Ive seen before 👍

Yes just cut a slit a lil wider than spike and bend tab upward 👍

@JonnyDIY I have a Job ahead of me. High winds and Rain causes a Tree branch to hit my main Power Line. Bending the pipe, breaking the Soffit and ripping the Fascia and Gutter off. I have to remove the Gutter, ( approx 35- 40 ft, all one piece) replace Soffit and Fascia and while I'm at it, install a Drip Edge

@@ROCKnROLL1406 ohh man sorry to hear, you've got your work cut out. Good luck with the project, hopefully you'll have some better weather to fix it in 👍

@JonnyDIY Thank You. Yesterday, Electrician replaced and Installed new Service and PVC Pipe. One part finished, next my turn once we get good weather

@JonnyDIY I subscribed to your Channel

Not sure of the brand, got at home depot. 2 inch I believe. You'll get better service and knowledge at a Roofing supply store though

No itll be ok, at least you have drip edge installed. A lot better than having no drip edge with gutters. If worried you could caulk the edge where the gutter meets the drip edge to prevent water dripping back between the two 👍

Drip edge always goes down first 👍🏻

Yes they should have put new drip edge with the new roof especially if it was a complete tear off and re roof. Hope you get issue sorted 👍 Good luck

you can cut small relief cuts in it to bend and form it to different shapea

If youre still getting water drainage behind the gutters, yes you should seal it to prevent water damage to your fascia or rafter tails

Jonny DIY thank you!

You're welcome 😀👍🏻

Sounds like a roofing problem, how the water is being diverted. Could probably be solved with additional flashing and or drip edge and roofing sealant 👍

Can either glue it on or what I did is face nail/screw it down then covered head with roof sealant 👍

Thanks Alex! Haha you're right abouy ole Tommy. He's always going off about improperly installed drip edge haha 🤣👍🏻

From my knowledge, drip edge 1st then felt over the top. Then on the gable ends drip edge over the top of felt paper

Markeytube - on the eaves, drip edge under the felt. On the rake, drip edge over the felt.

@@ibrazeau3044 thanks.

@@ibrazeau3044 Why would the drip edge go over the felt on the rake? I'm trying to visualize this... On the eave its obvious that the felt goes over the drip edge.

Shop Therapy - I don't really know but the code calls for that. I never questioned before as we just do it because it is required. I'll find out for you though. Either way, 15 lbs felt is not worth much and 30 lbs felt (better) is getting hard to find as self adhering products are much better and much more available. For those, you need a removable membrane on top because the old shingles stick to it and it's a major drag while installing a new roof afterwards. No real need for felt over unheated roofs though, like a shed or lean to, because the temp is similar inside and out. I'll find out for you.

Sorry about that 🤙

@@JonnyDIY thanks for the instructions though, I am pretty sure my gutters are doing this so I will be attempting to do this in the coming weeks!!

Haha sorry about that. The rest has been helpful for many just use the fast forward button to skip ahead past my wacky intro 😄👍