Thank you! I had an installer drive screws so far into 3/8” drywall I think it just went to the stud. If he was even drilling into studs. But that was another issue. When I questioned the structural integrity, he said it didn’t matter on walls like it did ceilings. It wasn’t just 1 screw, it was more than half of the screws on the sheet rock. This information is invaluable for home owners that don’t know better and are at the mercy of an installer or contractor. He guaranteed his work for a year. 🤭 I didn’t think that was long enough.
Happy to hear you learned something. It is most certainly does matter as driving the screws all the way into the drywall like that does nothing to actually secure the drywall. After it is mudded, sanded and painted you could also have screw holes "pop" and will have to address it in the future. Sorry you have to deal with that.
Just lower the clutch setting to between 10-15 (depending on your torque rating for your drill).clutch will engage when you break paper if you get it at the right setting
Really love your explanation of exactly what drywall is and what it's made of. It gives a lot of context to why you drive the screws the way you do. Learned a lot here.
Don't forget to talk about spacing ;) 32 screws for an 8x4 sheet on a wall. 16" max spacing, 8" from edges. For ceilings, more screws. 12" max between screws. Don't put screws right on the edge of the sheetrock as these can break the edges.
Excellent example and tips. I will be adding some drywall to the ceiling of a garden house(formerly playhouse). Your video gave perfect instructions to follow. Since I’m using a drill, I’ll purchase the extension to hold the screw and set at correct depth. Maybe you could do a video on drywall installation, tapping and mudding please:)
Good video, well explained. Some people claim (youtuber Vancouver Carpenter, for example) that the dimple bit should not be used because it itself spins and therefore cuts the paper before it stops. I have had this happen. I would say that if you are doing any large amount of drywall, a dedicated drywall screw gun is worth it because it addresses this problem. Otherwise, your first technique is the way to go - simply slow down and do it carefully.
Great video. Over seven minutes just to show how to drive a screw may seem overkill, but by providing examples of improperly inserted screws, you are helping folk get it right.
At some point you have to decide if the project is worth the expense but if you are handing a large amount of drywall(like a basement remodel), sinking $100 on a collated screw driver that does drywall is worth it. Not only for getting the perfect depth every time but also the screw magazine is a huge time saver. Beginners often don't realize that you need to be sinking a lot of screws into sheetrock and having to do them one at a time is just painfully slow.
i got one and it is nice for overhead and such since you can slam in a bunch of screws to hold sheet with one hand but it is not always perfect in putting the screw in and does cost a lot for giant buckets of screws
If at an angle u have to go in til u can feel about a third of the head holding screw. That usually only happens on the seem tho where u have the taper edge. Sinking mud tape onto screw there helps a lot cause u can see the tape and stop
Apparently, those things are no good either because it has a tendency to score a round hole around the screw, as seen on "Vancouver carpenter " I've never use one though. I build my recording studio when I was 15 I'm sure I have a lot of over sunk screws but after 12 years of banging drums and jamming the walls are still solid!
I dry walked houses all through the 80s and 90s. I would not recommend smacking a screw with a hammer. It can crack the screw and it will pop out later through the mud. Also the screws going in crooked it would probably be better just to take the screw out and remove it because once it breaks a paper it’s useless why I have the screw in there. Just my recommendations after drywalling houses for 20 years.
Thanks. First timer here. Learning everything from scratch. You are right. "might sound simple...". Without your video, I would have made all the mistakes.
It's interesting that in the US and Canada, you seem to rely only on screws to hold plaster board. Here in Australia, we always used "stud adhesive". This is blobs of blue glue that we put on the studs, that glues the board onto the wall and prevents the board from sagging between screws. We still use plenty of screws, but the stud adhesive is actually stronger than the screws. .Another big advntage is the stud adhesive takes up any gaps or variations in the frame. Stud adhesive can take up pretty big gaps. . another thing is these days a lot of our studs intended for plaster board have a groved surface, to increse surface area and glue holding power. . Yeh a lot of people don't like the dimplers, because they can ring bark the paper around the screw, if the user is heavy handed, making the screw hold very weak.
I wish I could get you hereish............taking on RU-vid and all the guidance I can get. I think I have it all together but a second set of hands and continued lessons is all a girl can hope for. You don't yell at the camera and disrupt my learning process and I like that. I was going to start my own youtube vlogs but then I would need a director. Thank you.
Haha I've done the sideways thing before where I was putting the screw in a tight corner and couldn't get it in straight so I drove it in a bit extra to make it sink in. I knew it wasn't right but that was my only option haha
Really need to show how to put screws into the tapered joints without blowing the edges out. Double studs on the breaks? (I hung parallel to studs in basement bedroom to avoid butt joints, walls are longer than 12ft also I couldn’t fit 12ft sheets down the stairs). I’m wondering if the butt joints are easier than dealing with blown out edges on the tapered joints when you hang sheets vertical?
usually, you go for 1 inch into wood much more than that and you can hit wires and pipes so 1 1/2 inch screws would be good for 1/2 inch drywall you could get away with 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
Brilliant info. The only question I would ask is, which are the 'best' screws to use on sheetrock? All too often in my house, I see 'nail pops' on the walls. Is that where the builder did not use the best hardware?
Hey, Thomas! The bit is called "drywall screw setter". There is a link in the description to where you can purchase them. Thanks for checking out the video!
Hey there! So when I do ceilings I usually put 5 to 6 screws across the 4 foot section. Which works out to be maybe every 8 inches. On the walls I typically put 4 or 5 in each stud. Hope this answers your question! Thanks for watching!
I'm not expert at all - I made a mistake and got 2" drywall screws for 1/2 inch drywall sheets. I'm having the hardest time driving into the sheets. I have wood studs and the screws go in about half way & just stop driving. Do I just need shorter screws? I tried 2 fully charged screw guns. It's such a simple thing but sooo frustrating
yeah, usually you want 1 inch into wood so 1 1/2 would be good for 1/2 inch drywall so you don't hit wires or pipes. not sure if you can't drive them in because gun is to weak or you need a new tip on screwgun
I got a few dry wall screws stuck in the drywall. Looking for a better technique. The Phillips bit route is definitely not the way to go when you have too much drywall to install😢. Imma invest in a bit of I can find it
I have better idea, re-design drywall so all screws can be easily countersunk without ripping paper, and while we're at it make lot lighter to, is that to much to ask for seeing that drywall has been around for 70+ years .........
Those tips rip the paper, as you can see with the ring left around it when he did it, creating pops later on. Better to just do it with regular drill bit if you don’t have the proper drill
