Also thank you for your videos. I used so many of your videos to help me fix my walls cracking and destroyed corners, and several cracks. No experience and you were huge help. Husband is happy and was just expecting me to paint over cracks, he was quiet impressed I fixed the wall first.
You are seriously the drywall whisperer. Time and again I watch your videos and walk way so much more informed than I ever anticipated and it’s saved me not only my initial questions, but future headaches as well.
Love watching your videos. I am doing a whole house renovation, and your videos have been a life saver. The first one I watched was on trimming out windows. Thanks to you, my windows look perfect. You are fun, entertaining, and informative. You aren't afraid to make a mistake. They become a learning experience for those of us out here who will make a ton of them. Thanks so much for your time and expertise.
Oddly this is the absolute most “How to hang dry wall” video I’ve found even if it wasn’t the way you intended to frame the video. Super helpful and I feel much more prepared to dry wall over the siding in my house now. Thanks a tonne!
A drywaller with 15+ years experience here. I have a very similar set up belt, but I've got a trick for you to use if you'd like. Instead of keeping your measuring tape on the right pouch, keep it in the smallest end pocket on your left pouch. So when you need to take out your knife and tape to do the sliding technique, or tape and pencil to make a mark, you've got both ready to go at the same time. It saves about 3 seconds, but when you have to do that 200 - 300 times per day it adds up.
Its a gift to know something well enough to find the confidence in competence to instruct others in it. I'm just fixing up my house and this was priceless! Gracias!
I’ve drywalled a few rooms in my house, self taught. I learned so much from this video, wish I would’ve seen it before I did anything, would’ve saved me so much time!
Just a tip for chalk line. Cut through the board with your knife quarter inch or so and throw the chalk line in the grove with the holder pulled out the back side. Works better that way and won't fall off. Also any extreme angles will become much easier.
For those who don't understand why 1 1/4" is the right length for your drywall screws, that length is long enough to reliably grab the stud without hitting wires hiding behind. Electricians are required to have their wires deeper than 1 1/4" from the surface of the stud, so the thickness of your drywall is your safety cushion. On the rare occasion when they can't get wires deep enough, such as on a corner, they nail a plate to prevent misadventure. Buy the right length of screws and you won't likely burn your house down.
I used to live in Vancouver and used to do renovations so did this a lot. Its been a hood handful of years though so its nice to get a refresher in. Also, the drill always found a way to embarrass me too when others would watch and commentate so I feel ya . Love the videos and look forward to continuing the journey
Hello! I just wanted to say thank you for posting all this great information! I'm working on drywalling my attic with attic trusses and six dormers. I think this will definitely help me reduce the amount of mistakes I make! I just noticed that you were making marks on the wall with measurements at 5:40, I'm sure doing that will save me a lot of headaches in the future remeasuring. Thanks, Caleb Hudson
Always like and appreciate your videos. As a chick in a "man's" field, it's very helpful to have reinforcements when someone says, "why are you doing it like that?". Thank you. Keep in mind I live in the southern US where I'm not always taken seriously.
Yeah... Some of the old heads have some fragile egos. I don't have to deal with the sexism, but since I'm in my 30s, I frequently deal with the "I've been doing this since before you were born" attitude. Thankfully, a lot of those attitudes are aging out with the generations most responsible for them. It'll be our world soon enough :)
Also, after a little reflection, I should state that I didn't intend to make your post about me. There's enough dudes out here derailing the conversation in their favor, even if it comes with the best of intentions. We can all be a little more mindful sometimes :) Good luck out there, J!
I'd just be happy to have someone help me that is competent in drywall ... perhaps it would make up for my incompetence ... usually the mud man hates to finish drywall that I have installed ... and of course I am the mud man too.
I like that you don't edit out the parts that show you're not perfect even though you (definitely) are a pro. It gives us beginners more lee-way to not expect us to do things perfectly or without a hitch. There's a learning curve for beginners and they shouldn't judge themselves as lacking anything because of it. I also like reading the comments as the comments provide their own useful tips to be considered and additional insights. Your channel and fanbase is the best!💖
Thank you for the great info. I insulated my 10x20 shed myself, and the next step is drywall. Now I know to buy the right equipment. Another tool on my Ryobi list since I have plenty of batteries.
I appreciate how you looked for space in the outlets without wires before you router the hole. As an electrician I can tell you that not all drywall guys worry about that. Have had to fix plenty of wires chewed up by routers over the years. Thanks for your attention to that detail!
As a drywaller for 15 years after being chewed out for chewing up wires like going in the box with the routers I made it a rule stay on the outside of the box by 1/8 of an inch plate covers it and you don't have an electrician all over your ass
On another thought I can tell how good the electrician is by if I measure from the floor up to the bottom of the box after a measure a dozen of them and they're all set it 15 or 16 in I figure I can trust them not be all over the place with their measurements
Drywall fast and cheap. But also fire resistant. I grew up in a house in California that had 1/4" Mahogany plywood for the walls. Ours was painted white but our neighbors was varnished. Their house caught fire and was gone in 15 minutes. Their garage didn't have the original Mahogany plywood and had been drywalled and was the only room left standing. The next week my father ripped our Mahogany out and replaced it with drywall. I had stucco concrete walls in one house designed as a passive solar experiment. The walls were done like a basement. It made the house very quiet as it blocked outside noise. But much harder to work with than timber frame and drywall. If you want wood or some other expensive material put drywall behind it. It may save you life.
and for the cost, drywall is very sound absorbent for those that don't know, gypsum isn't just non-flammable. because it's a hydrated mineral it outgasses water vapour when it gets hot
I think the reason why drywall is used is BECAUSE it is cheap and easy. If you screw it up just tear it out and do it over. If you want to knock a hole in the wall and run some cable? Piece of cake, easy to patch. It's like it was made to be destroyed and repaired. Dents are easy to patch. It the material was high quality it would be hard to repair. Patching wood panel is not easy. Replacing old panels and finding ones that match, not easy. Drywall is like cork board for hanging photos. Thumbtack the hell out of it. Nobody will notice.
Very good video! I’m a homeowner who does very nice work & takes too long on the job. I did learn a few things, (I usually score too deep & cut too tight). I also need to buy a panel lift & router. I’m doing my laundry room in January. Thank you for your valuable wisdom.
Good advice on setting cutting area up. One thing I do is put paper or plastic down in the cutting area. Once all the boards are cut fold up up and clean all the chunks up. In a Home Reno this saves on the mess.
Curtis Aitken, how’s the handyman business going? Asking because I pretty much hate my day job and have been thinking about starting a side handyman business and seeing how it grows. Not sure how it is in your neck of the woods but trying to get any professional in to do work they are either booked out 6 months or charging a heavy premium. If you don’t mind replying would really appreciate it.
@@72cgray I'm not a handyman but research the laws concerning handymen in the state you live in. Unless you have a contractor's license, there are many restrictions on what handymen can and cannot charge for jobs. In fact, my GF just took a handyman to court and won. The judge did mention that the handyman should've had a contractor's license because his rights are very limited as a handyman.
@@72cgray it depends on what state you are in. I am in SW Florida. In Florida I am not “allowed” to do any electrical. I am not “allowed” to do any plumbing behind the walls. The fact that I can depends on the client. I won’t do anything that puts my insurance at risk. The insurance is cheap, the license here is easy. I’ve just started about 2 months ago and it’s my full time. The hardest parts are figuring out what/how to bill your clients and learning to say no. I work in a very small geographic area. I’ve not had any days off I don’t want. Know your worth and be honest…you’ll go far. I charge $75 an hour and they buy all the items they need if they pick them up or pay me the $75 an hour to goto the store to pick them up. Be consistent, honest and the rest will come to you by word of mouth.
You saved me so much time, money and frustrations. Fixed a 18ft tall 40x30 sagging ceiling. Scraped 4x as much painted popcorn ceilings. Countless nail pops. 10 peaked sheets. Covered textured walls with skim coats. Replaced a 4x3 section of ceiling. Numerous failed tapes and cracks. and everything is PERFECT. Took me 80hrs lol but I'm happy. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!! BTW Wet sanding with a microfiber backed sponge in a circular motion THEN sanding gave me a level 5 finish.
Awesome! I’m so glad the videos helped. And thank so so much for the generous super thanks! Looks like I can support my luxurious coffee habit for one more month😂❤️
@@vancouvercarpenter you're welcome! I ruined the perfect walls and ceiling I created by not having enough pressure in the paint sprayer. So now I get to do it all again!!
I'm actually considering flat wallpapering the whole thing and skimming the joints. I just don't think I have it in me to skim and sand it again. Have you ever done this?
one thing not covered here is when doing an outside wall there will be a gap by the floor. Always mud or calk the gap to prevent drafts. The house should already be sealed and the insulation should be doing it's job, so this is a belt + suspenders deal. BTW, I was at a job years ago where the electricians drilled from the basement to the attic on an inside wall for about 10 wires within the same bay. It created such a draft that the heating / cooling t-stat was always off by a mile. Of course the attic had a plywood floor right down the center so not easy to find.
Hi thanks for videos fun to watch! Just want to say that the "reason" for the crumbly drywall besides being fast and cheap is that it is very fire proof, and in fact if it gets hot it "bleeds" moisture! Sometimes in commercial buildings they require a "firewall" which means about 3 layers or more. In elevator shafts its 1 1/2 thick stuff only 2ft wide.....this is for fire protection and making sound proof too. We used to always go "to and through" light boxes, which means a number (AKA "give me some numnums bubba") for near edge, and a number for far edge, so if you are on ladder taking the numnums, you want to tell partner doing cuts on ground for example 32 to it, and 34 through it....and from the "ups" or "the buttedge" Also we didnt say "one and three quarters" or "two and three eigths" instead go by eighths of inch - for example one and three quarters would be: "one and six", and for two and three eights you would say "two and three" For a quarter inch or half inch, you can say "quarter " or "half" however......thats how we did it down in Seattle in the Carpenters Union work at least. Most of time two people, so lots of times one gives numbers, one does the cuts when doing ladder and scaffold work. Also in the nitty gritty numbers, you say "shy" or "strong" which means 1/16 to 1/8 less or more to the cut. We called the board lifter thing a "kicker" the hole cutter the "circle jerk" From Pink Floyd song to keep amused on job: "we dont need no insulation" and "we dont need no fire control" with british accent.... AjsoL "Ah love drahwall.... drahwall is mah life" with dumb hillbilly accent... "you only need to be a little bit smarter than the board you hang" a good motto Careful of stacking too many boards angled white side out on wall - as if it falls towards you you can break leg easy! That stuff is heavy. Great videos I had fun back in the days hanging sheetrock actually looking back at it. Mudding was always a mess! "dont worry the tapers will fix it!" and move on to next board....(sometimes paid by the sheet non-union work) Once we did a house that had no permit to an add-on, and the living room and bedrooms rested just on concrete blocks on top of dirt - no real foundation....we didnt know this, and cracks kept appearing everywhere because of the added weight of drywall on walls made it sink... it was total nightmare we had to go back and fix over and over...finally asked my old boss to take a look, he noticed the foundation nonexistent....so example of not being a bit smarter than the board you hang.
Good info… regarding setting the screw depth, I’d add that replacing the Phillips bits frequently helps. This as as the bit wears the depth the screw is sunk decreases. The wear occurs very little from screw to screw but after a 1,000 screws it’s noticeable. Don’t cheap out on changing blades and bits… they are consumables!
@@infotechsailor Mine... No! That was my point! On the other hand, I've seen guys with bits so rounded off that they had to put a lot of pressure on the driver to keep the bit engaged in the screw head... and they kept messing with the depth adjustment. That comment was for "those" guys. 😜
@@infotechsailor You need to buy better bits. You should be getting at least 100 screws per bit. Better yet, get Torx drywall screws and you will get even more out of the bit.
I have been watching a lot of your videos and the information is amazoning. I have learned a lot about DRYWALL from your videos and again i am amazoned !!
Good stuff! I've been a drywaller for most 20 years now so I had to see this. Because I do steel stud I always have black chalk in my line, I need to get 2 lines going cause your right about it staining. I like the 1" olfa because I tape cut everything and it's good for itch and poly so I just use that one instead of multiple. Love your vids mate!
I made a small steel box that fits perfectly inside an outlet without wiring device (no gaps), mounted two neodymium magnets on top. Cover drywall without any cutting and then use another magnet to find the outlet behind. Then just router it, first inside (plate protects the wires), then fine perimeter cut to outside dimensions. Saves lots of time on measurements and alway perfect result. Just wanted to share, not sure if there are similar things out there on the market...
A type of your solution is standard in Sweden. But the inner casing of our electrical outlets are round. So you can use a hole saw on the drill and cut around the magnets. Even a beginner can get a good result within 30 seconds.
Man oh man. This Vancouver carpenter is so good at teaching techniques of carpentry with an easy going presence. There should be Oscar type awards for these helpful videos.
Just finished doing the entire upstairs drywall in my 1930s cape cod down here in NY, about 400sqft with 2 large dormers. Talk about nothing being level from top to bottom, especially with angled and tapered ceilings 😅 Great explanations for everything.
Putting my house back together after Ida and just hung the drywall in one room, first time doing it. I made all of these mistakes. Getting more material this weekend for the other rooms so I'll be more careful. Going to watch the rest in the series now.
There is definitely a rhythm to hanging drywall. I do a lot of patchwork and these are helpful tips to remember! Now you have to do “Every mistake newbies make when taping!”
As a taper I feel obligated to say he should not do it becuse I have seen his taping videos and he doesn't know how to tape but I am glad he was taping to understand how to hang drywall. Just a shame no drywaller will watch this video and take notes. These are not newbie mistakes. Almost all drywallers make them because they don't have to fix their stuff. An example even he did a mistake that will cause nail pops. He doesn't know that because it was never his job to fix them and the mistake that will cause it isn't inexperienced screwing but he screwd top and bottom and then went in the middle. My english isn't good enough to explan it but the board could sliglty bend in the middle because of it and the screws will force the mid to get to the studs and eventually it would cause nail pops.
Thank you, I'll be rewalling a garage with a laundry room inside it. You have shown me so much, not just a video here and there. We in Australia also you use glue as well as screws or nails to fix the drywall to the boards.
Use 1 1/8" screws for 1/2" sheetrock and 1 1/4" for 5/8th" sheetrock. I agree with the rest of it. You can also get a guide tip router bit for your router and cut your sheets on your wider side and zip them in for a tight fit.
A little trick I use for outlet/switch boxes that I find really handy is i'll wet my fingers with water and put water on the box face (outlet/wires pushed inside box. You then put your sheet up against and give a few knocks where boxes are. When you pull the drywall back off wall you have a perfect outliine of where box is, then use a oscillating/router tool to cut it out.
Great vid for anyone wanting to know about hanging Sheetrock, and also, YEPPERS……making a vid explaining all this stuff and working with tools; not easy all the time😉 Definitely LIKE that you show the mishaps, mistakes, errors, and so on; and laugh and have fun with it…..B/C no matter how long been in a trade (or any job) you’ll make a mistake now and then. How you fix it (or others….that comes up a lot, don’t it🙂) is what matters: is what ppl say, BUT it also shows and tells how good/skilled you are b/c there’s some jobs you walk into knowing your there to fix someone’s else’s mistakes, and it can be “interesting” & “nasty” sometimes (I’m sure y’all know what mean if been doing this long enough). GOOD VID, looking forward to NEXT✌🏻
Never in my career as a sheet rocker have I ever heard someone say “unfortunatly we don't have any ceilings to hang” lol. I so much good info in your videos!
I've just tape and jointed my first ever bit of drywall... A recess with 2 internal angles, a straight butt joint and a normal straight tape joint. Think I've made a really mess. Respect to you doing such helpful videos. Just wish I'd watched this before I started 😢
10:02 health and Safety tip. Keep your work area tidy. I usually sweep as I go in my cutting location. Nothing worse than cutting while going backwards (a dangerous maneuver in general on a job site) and tripping over some offcuts of lumber, drywall or standing into your box of screws. Those drywall screws have a corse thread and when you are installing thousands of them you end up with bits of black metal in your skin from handling. I use a thin set of gloves such as the mechanix style when installing board, plus helps your grip.
2:40 It would have been nice to mention why 1 1/4" screws for 1/2" board...to reduce the risk of screwing into electric wire. Hopefully wire is in the middle of studs so there's about 1 1/4" of wood before the hole for wire. So a 1 3/4" screw would be max in theory but holes aren't always perfectly centered so not a lot of leeway there. There are also wires running along studs and joists and where they go into electrical boxes the wires are very close to drywall on an opposite walls. No problem if the screw hits the stud, but if you miss... Longer the screw, higher the risk.
That is an added benefit, but most jurisdictions mow require plates to protect wires. Of course that does nothing if the screw misses the stud and subsequently the plate.
@@RehabLife I don't know about the States, but up here in Canada a protection plate is only required if the hole/cable is less that 32mm or 1-1/4" from the edge of the building member. I always put them where I know cabinetry will be installed or other risky areas, but not everyone will.
@@RPGDonkey yeah, I think technically as long as the hole is in the center of the stud it doesn’t have to be there, but in reality almost none are so I just put them everywhere. It’s cheap insurance.
The "rule of thumb" is that 1-1/2 of the width of material held needs to be penetrated by the screw. So, for 1/2" drywall that is 3/4". That's where 1-1/4" comes from. With only 3/4" protruding into the stud, there is plenty of margin because a 2x4 is 3-1/2", 2x6 is 5-1/2". Halfway is 1-3/4" and 2-3/4" respectively. In Ontario the building code calls for rough-in wiring to be centered in the depth. That leaves about 3/4" for 1/2" rough in drilled hole into a 2x4 partition wall. Any rough in electrician drills the hole mid depth and in a horizontal line to make it easier to pull. Rough wiring is usually mid stud for stapling and boxes are 2" deep or 1-1/2" back from the face of the stud. Plates aren't required if rough in wiring is done to code. If the rough in hole is an inch or less from the surface of the stud due to being misdrilled. plates are required. That is the responsibility of the rough in electrician, not the rocker.
I'm almost sad to say I'm wrapping up work on a full attic remodel and have no drywall finishing left to do (barring disaster). I need to show you the dormer window some time, off-angles meeting off-angles everywhere! It came out perfect and that was just when I started watching your videos over a year ago. Those strait-flex videos were crucial and saved me. Anyway, this video hurt a little because I did make every one of those mistakes in the beginning before I found your channel.
My dad has 25+ yrs of experience with multiple companies and multiple residential, demo/remodel, and commercial project. I working drywall full time with him as subcontractors. I still find 45 degree angles hard to figure out especially when there's multiple angles aside from just 90 degree spaces. I'd say I'm fairly good at hanging and measuring and just problem solving issues we encounter to make it easier and better outcome for finishers. Knowing how to joint drywall together and prep the work as you go for the next process is important and you'll stand out in the crowd. Hanging drywall is honestly just geometry in some sense especially if framed correctly there's so many efficient simified ways to find multiple measurements and just knowing where butt joints need to go and how flats/factory joints have to go with the least joints possible (leave a cleaner and better result). Anyone can hang drywall but only a few hang it well and properly like this guy, it shows on the precision!
45* .. whatever you measure across .. measure the same down .. simple as. If that doesn't work for you, cut a small but off the end of a sheet and set in place against the wall or sheet your joining to to find where it hit. Mark it on the wall or sheet you're coming off of and measure to closet wall to the mark and there you have it!
Made every mistake you mentioned this week while trying to patch up some of our remodel work. At least I have an entire 15 foot wall to do next thst I won't be making the same mistakes on!
@@liz6034 to win a small chunk cracks from the back side and bulges forward. If that happens the only way to fix it is to cut out all the loose stuff and then mud the huge hole.
Thanks, as an occasional drywall DIY I can't believe how many of these mistakes I routinely make. I can't wait to get at another project in January and do it properly/ easier. Looking forward to the next 2.
Question: how tight should I make the seams/joints? I’m used to having everything snug, so I’m assuming maybe subtract 1/4” off of the total measurement on a wall to wall piece?
I've got a rookie mistake for you. Working on my bathroom and I keep finding small blue strings in my mud and its driving me crazy. Found that I was mixing my mud in a blue Lowes bucked and as I was mixing the knife was scraping off the plastic in the bucket! Drove me nuts for an entire afternoon!
Your California patch you showed is the best drywall tip I have ever seen. It works flawlessly. I was pretty good at patching holes but after I tried that my patching time improved drastically and it’s impossible to spot. THANK YOU!!
I work as a carpenter/punch-list guy, and I'm guilty about trying to fit things in too tightly when I do drywall work. It's a simple thing, but it does cause problems. Thanks for the advice. I'll try to remember to be more generous in my measurements.
Ah, those early days of DIY drywalling. I would lay the sheets on a sawhorse table to make every cut. Was doing electrical work on a commercial job site and learned so much from watching and questioning the pros. Ask them first if you can ask questions. Fast and cheap? Currently working in a owner home build home from the 70’s. The wallboard is really soft like it’s wet.
Great video. I am building a small soundproof, totally enclosed cubicle. I am going to double up with 5/8" drywall and use green glue in between. Do I have to mud and tape the first layer of joined drywall, and then do the same for the 2nd layer?
I'm sorry, but I've hung drywall for over 30 plus years and this guy is hilarious. I'm not saying that he done everything wrong, but he's making a video showing beginners how not to make mistakes and I saw so many rookie mistakes that he made. Dig your blade into the edge of the board when using a chalk line so your string will stay put. Do not cut on the left hand side of your t-square unless you can absolutely not help it. When you start screwing off the board keep that screw gun switch locked so it continues to run and you will not miss so many screws. I could go on and on, but no one's perfect. LOL
i had that feeling, hes just way to clean-cut to be a pro. never trust "pretty hands" they havent done any work, for me as a beginer its so irritating that NO ONE TALKS ABOUT LEGAL CODE!!!!! that the only fucking thing im watching for!!!! and no one KNOWS CODE, or thinks is so elementary that everybody should know code LAW!!
In regards to your issue with screw depth setting. The screw gun should be locked on as the but does not rotate until it is depressed. The constant speed of the of the gun helps set the screws faster and more constantly. It also saves on battery life.
Amazing videos. I'm just starting out getting my own Reno business going. You are by far my favorite. Very informative. I live on the Sunshine Coast in bc, so you being in Vancouver is pretty cool. Your videos are going to be my go-to for learning as I go. Thank you for your vids.👍
Just discovered your channel, that’s a cool video mate! I see you demonstrate a lot of mistakes I already did in the past😂 did you try carbon blades instead of normal ones for your knife? I find it easier to cut plasterboard with 😊
Man you have been a lot of help! started my own Contracting company to find out I really suck at mudding! wish I could contact you to pick your brain and show you some work for suggestions.
Oh man my boxes are the worst! 😂 I just put wall board over top old crumbly lath and plaster and I have pretty much done every mistake you've pointed out so far and I'm sure 2/3 and 3/3 are gonna have my name all over them as well. But nothing is as bad as my electrical boxes! I buy the extra large plates and also I have to replace the screws with longer ones on the actual switches and plugs to pull them out from box to meet the wallboard 1/4 inch beyond the plaster! It's a freakin' mess but it's my freakin' mess! 🤣🤣
When cutting with the square make sure the square and or the board stay touching and don’t flex. I usually press along as I go to keep my blade from wandering
I've been drywalling for 20 years here in the UK. Lot's of good points but I have a couple extra things that I always do. BTW I wasn't sure what tool you showed at the start but I recommend an impact driver with 4 setting such as the Hikoki, make sure you use a PH2 dedicated bit that fixes directly in to the tool, not a bit holder. The impact driver means you can go in to tough old timbers or new ones by just adjusting. It has a specific setting, fast start then upon resistance drops torque. OK tip 1*, always put your 8x4's on 2 pieces of timber to raise them off the floor for cutting, or even better stick the pile on a pair of Stanley Junior Saw Horses, man this makes things much faster and much easier, particularly for complicated cuts. Change your blade every day at the least, guys using blades for weeks are just disorganised, blades cost pennies. Looking forward to see how you fix more than a single board.
Thank-you for your helpful video. Regarding sharp blades, there is a tool called a Speedy Sharp Knife Sharpener, it will scrape off the drywall dust and sharpen your blade in a couple of seconds, much faster than changing a blade.
this video has come too late for me. Watched many of your videos to learn as I went, as I was doing my reno and basically made most of the mistakes you mention. I'm afraid to watch your sequel to this. As they say "ignorance is bliss" at this point.. perhaps I don't want to know lol
I was looking for a video to share with a friend i can’t help this is great. The first screw mishap😂 had me rolling. The stripping sound 😂 and a miss. Way to be a champ and not edit it out. Have a good weekend.
Hi Ben Thanks for all the great tips !! I look forward to the next part. When installing drywall sheets vertically, how important is it to not put the beveled edge at an outside corner. Myself, I just make sure there is a cut edge at the outside corners. I would think having beveled edges at outside corners would cause problems with the corner bead install. You might have to pre-mud the corner with quickset to eliminate the bevel before installing the corner bead. Or is it just better to put your sheets horizontal and have to deal with vertical butt joints ? Thanks Terry(Calgary)
Great video Ben...!!!👍👍 Question for you re drywall tape... What are your thoughts on wetting the tape then removing most of the water / moisture from the tape before installing it over the compound?
G'day, Kevin here from Australia. I'm plastering a extension out (just the cornice to go now) and here we have to use stud adhesive when hanging plaster. You don't? And I have studied your videos and I must say my plastering skills have improved outersight especially my external corners. So thanks for sharing. ✌🏻 Peace
glue is available in North America but cannot always be used. Most times it is for added noise cancellation when laminating boards together. We use Vapor Barrier (Plastic) on the exterior walls in Canada as a moisture barrier and as such you cannot bond directly to the framing member. Internal walls are fine. I've started doing it for ceilings and is worth my extra effort cuts down on fastener holes too.
People think tradesmen are tradesmen because they aren't capable of thinking on the level of a doctor or lawyer but a good tradesman Is the master of critical thinking, thinking ahead and problem solving. That's why doctors and lawyers hire them to do things like this. If it was easy anyone could do it.
One I have made, once. Measuring your sides to cut along the length of a board where it tapers in/out over the full length of board, then cutting a foot off the end and wondering why the side is off. Because angles don't work that way. If the top is 2" and the bottom is 3", and the height is 6" you cant mark an 8" board at 2" and 3" at the ends and get the width right. I now always cut to length then measure/mark the width.
