I watched this a few weeks ago and it looked promising compared to other methods I've watched and tried. I finally got to use it the other day and I'm never caulking any other way again! This made me dread caulking to now liking to do it! Thank you so much for this!
Great video tutorial and great for a quick fix. However after reaserching I decided to go with OSI Quad Max. This product really stands out and I don't particularly want be sealing my trailer every couple of years.
I too never use silicone on my RVs. The main issue is removing every trace of silicone and its slick residue to allow new sealant, silicone or otherwise, to adhere properly. Two months ago I took delivery of a 2015 DRV Houston. This unit spent the last four and a half years in Florida. Most of the seals, sealants, and pliable materials were cooked. The dealership I purchased the unit from used silicone on all seams except the roof. When I took delivery I noticed nearly all the silicone was tacky. Here in Seattle we've had some beautiful sunny days this week. So went out to do some window cleaning. Not only is the silicone still tacky but many areas are now either cloudy, bubbling underneath, peeling, lifting or all of the above. Seems they may have sealed everything just after washing and waxing her. In most areas trapped water mixed with the silicone and prevented proper curing. Other areas the silicone was prevented from adhering due to waxing before sealing or residue from previous silicone sealant. When trapped moisture heats up in the sun it expands as a vapor. The pressure caused by water vapor is causing several silicone seams to lift. This now leaves a path for moisture to enter. Before sealing an RV you must ensure there is no moisture present. Allow the RV to dry for a few days before applying a sealant which would trap any moisture. When I've resealed my previous DRV fifth wheels, I use a rag to clean along the seam. If there was rain, fog, or excess dew in the previous days or if I suspect any moisture may be present, I blow the seams out with an air compressor. A shop vac will work to suck water out when a seal needs an emergency fix. For emergency fixes, I use butyl tape. It's easy to remove when a proper sealant is applied. Don't wash your unit if you don't have time to dry every seam before sealing. Now I fear it's going to cost a fortune to have this 44 foot qiad slide unit stripped, cleaned to remove all traces of silicone and resealed. It's the largest and has the most seams of any fifth wheel I've had. All because they went on the cheap with silicone. Unless you want to spend twice the time or spend twice as much prepping for resealing, avoid silicone. I don't know if or how solvents used to remove silicone residue will affect the paint. Cheers!
Im a fairly new tech to the rv industry however we are only allowed to use proflex at our dealership. Im not trying to get in a debate over which sealant is best and why but i can tell you are a skilled tech. So with that being said can you use the same technique with proflex those seal jobs are killing me in flag time.
I have a coachmen freelancer class C. Will this work on can over area or should I use a different product? It is a 2017 and want to make sure I take care of properly. great video!
thanks for the video im a painting contractor, and we do a lot of caulking, and I would always wonder how the rv tech do the caulking, thanks for the tip'' does it dry clear my rv is white and my trim metal is black im just wondering if Could use white thanks
Elbow grease, unfortunately physically removing it is the only way I've found. I sharpen plastic scrapers on the grinder and scrape it off. Not a quick task......
Vinegar also helps to make the bond weak between silicone and your exterior. It still sucks, but it sucks a little less. I've used it on a rag to liberally soak areas with silicone as well as putting it in a spray bottle and hitting it with a good stream and both worked well for me. Let her sit for a few minutes and it seems even silicone despises the wretched scent of vinegar. Again, it doesn't really make it easy, it just makes it less sucky. I found I was spending less time trying to get that one spot where my scraper just wouldn't quite touch it just right to remove it. I should also mention that I have no idea if your exterior will react unfavorably to the vinegar since it is technically an acid, so try it on your neighbor's RV first.
Proper, silicone, and trailer/rv are three terms never to be used together. I use OSI Quad max, a sealant made by Henckels, the same organization that makes liquid nails. Their sealant is expensive, but guess what? It works! It can bond to tself, it extremely flexible, and lasts a long time. If you like your teailer or rv, buy an expensive sealant to keep water out. If you like destroying your rv and paying a lot to repair to replace it, listen to this video and enjoy shelling out your hard-earned cash.
I do. You'll want to remove the old sealant completely, and make sure the surface is clean of any dirt, oils, or debris. Then apply it like in the video! Thanks for watching
Never use silicone. It won’t last (I.e it will leak again), nothing else sticks to it (like paint or other sealer) and where it does stick well, it’s a bitch to remove when you have to redo it or if you want to paint your rig. It’s not UV resistant which is part of the reason why it won’t last. Don’t trust anyone recommending silicone. It’s bad and you will regret it.
@@goofyfish75 yes u can, I do it. Basically Sikaflex 221 is the latest version. It can handle the flexing of a caravan and keep a seal. Just as importantly, it can handle the weather and UV light. Silicon will turn to mush after about a year and you can get algae growing on the underside if it is transparent. Sikaflex was designed and built for this task.
Hi, I recently purchased a 2018 Minnie Winnie, and the roof and windows, and everything need to be resealed. I have been looking into the right kind of sealant to use, and apparently Winnebago recommends using Nuflex 311RV self leveling silicone for the roof. It is the product that Winnebago recommends for their rooves. I am having a hard time locating any to purchase. Any ideas? Also what type to use for all the vertical walls/windows? TY!
I have learned a lot from watching the demonstration on the application of silicone to seal up the RV seams. However, if you're new to this DIY project, you have to scroll down to see all the comments and replies to MR RV TECH. It is hilarious. Like a good boxing match between Ali and George Foreman:) Never imagined there was so much division among the pros on sealants. My final decision---Think I will use 100% Silicon on my piece of CRAP Coachman Mirada because I'll sell it soon. So, Cuidado con el comprador (buyer beware).
That’s not a fair statement about Mirada’s. Mine was a 2017 Class A and we took our retirement vacation in it for 8 months up to Lake Superior coast line and then to Maine before returning to Georgia. It was an amassing trip and the RV WAS EXCELLENT.
@moose-sb3ce I have a small coachman caravan and i tell you what, I'm needing to redo the sealant now but whats on there has held really well!! Through all sorts of weather. It needs a few bits of maintenance here and there and I should get a cover for it, but it's doing okay considering.
If someone uses silicone on an RV, It will takes weeks of work to get it off to reseal it the next time. I am doing that now to mine. Nothing sticks to Silicone, silicone will not stick to silicone it all needs to come off and scraping it off is not good enough, you need to use silicone remover.
I agree. I was pulling some silicone off of my RV over the weekend and some of my graphics came off with it. Not a happy camper at the moment. I said some words and none of them sound like "frustration".
NEVER use silicone on an RV. It's won't hold up. Instead, use a Polyurethane sealant like DyMonic or something like it. Trust me, you'll be sorry using silicone.
can you expand on this? I'm about to strip/clean and reseal my rv trailer for the 1st time. Since the roof is TPD I'm supposed to used something different than what is used on the sides. That's about the extent of my knowledge at this point.
I believe you mean TPO roofing. Don't just listen to me though, i'm no expert so do a little of your own research. I have an 06 Jayco that had a leak due to the use of a silicone sealant. When it was repaired, and there is a lot of info out there on this very topic, I was told they use polyurethane based sealant ONLY. Silicone won't last and won't properly adhere. You'll be having to do it yearly. Again, research it first.
Ron Smit I find the opposite is true. Silicone seals well, but only as long as the adhesion lasts. Which is not long on a RV. I use silicone to make temp gaskets.
The proper way to apply silicone is to leave it on the shelf and grab Sikaflex. I've been spending alot of time taking silicone off my RV due to previous owners.
@@erichnl1 Sorry for the late reply. Totally missed it. Yes, you can apply Sikaflex like any other sealant/adhesive. The key is to start with a clean surface. I use Sikaflex 221in white from Amazon.
Enjoyed the video. I had to take my RV in for warranty work. When they resealed my RV they used way to much clear silicone and the whole side of my RV has finger smeared silicone on it. How do I remove this so I can do it correctly?
Some places recommended mineral spirits but then after searching some and real spirits can leave in oily residue Some places recommend Is d natured alcohol , But then you find other places that don't recommend it What are we supposed to use? For cleaning before caulking
@@MRRVTECHOn another note. If I try and fill the cracks in the Self Leveling stuff up on the roof do I need to remove that as well before re sealing? Much to do here apparently.
I do not have a preferred " Brand", what is important though is that it is 100% Silicone to prevent chalking or molding. People who say do not use silicone, likely do not like to do preventative maintenance. Using sealants such as pro-flex or sikaflex will last longer, however the bond to vinyl decals and paint. From a service stand point, if I have to remove a light, trim, a door or window I'd prefer not to peel the side of the RV off with It! I have used 100% Silicone on All vertical surfaces in this industry for almost 16 years now and it has proven to be the best overall product.
Terra Moon, usually it will last around 1.5 - 2 years if applied correctly, of course this depends on exposure to the elements.....all RV's should be inspected every 6 months at a minimum, regardless of the sealant type.
@@MRRVTECH Sorry this statement is a bit weird. You have been using it for over 16 years, but you say it only lasts for 1.5 years. WTF. I'm not removing all my sealant every1.5 years. Sounds like the wrong product you are using. Once silicone soaks into any surface you can never repaint it. Ask any paint shop.
pierre marzan I recommend and brand that is 100% SILICONE, the chaulky residential stuff and bath/tile stuff are difficult to work with, and discolor rapidly on an exterior surface.
@@davidcrawford6505 the guy has said he uses silicone as a matter of convenience for him, not because he cares about a proper, long-lasting seal. That says a lot.
You will never see Silicone of any kind in exterior construction such as windows, sidings, or crete applications. Consider why that is. Imagine resealing skyscraper windows every 2 years. No, it's done every 15, 20 or even every 30 years using urethane sealant. Absolutely ridiculous to waste time and money having to do this on your RV every couple years.
Because it flexes and if you ever need something removed that has the "super sealants" everyone recommends....it will take paint, decals, and or fiberglass right off with it. The silicone can be easily removed and reapplied for service purposes.
MR RV TECH “can be easily removed” is the problem when it comes off by itself band things start getting wet inside behind wall where you can’t see it. Meanwhile it’s very hard to remove traces/residue. And no paint in the world sticks to silicone. Ask your local paint shop or google it. But I get why you would recommend it, it keeps you in business. Good luck with that.
Step #1. Never use silicone. RVs move and flex and this movement rips open silicone bonds. Even if they don't move, the bonds fail. It always fails and is a screaming Mofo to remove. Butyl tape is preferred.
@@MRRVTECH It comes back off. It is used on Commercial buildings. It might be a bit tougher but a small bead is all you need and it last for 15-20 years. What are the chances you are continually repairing the whole RV? Lets look at the facts here. Silicone is not suppose to be used on Fiber Glass. Silicone will come right off within 1-2 years. If someone wanted to get a complete RV repair why would you put CRAP on it afterwards? Obviously this would be an after thought of re-doing an entire RV. Try it out, your customers just might love you for it. It is also around the same price as the cheap stuff you are using if not cheaper.
@@brotherbonesx3163 I use sikaflex on a regular basis for its INTENDED purposes, the sealing done in this video does not warrant the use of industrial/commercial adhesive, sealants such as sikaflex. If you know anything about recreational vehicles, they are all sealed silicone or proflex, and are to be inspected/maintained every 90 days. (Read your owners manual). Also Rvs rarely see a usable 20 year life span.
@@MRRVTECH SikaFlex is a Polyurethane which is recommended for adhesive to an RV surface. I spent nearly 20 years in the construction industry. I know what seals hold up and what doesn't. How would you like your house to be sealed silicone? You wouldn't like it. Just because the RV industry uses cheap crap doesn't make it the "Official Brand" to use! Dicor 501LSW-1 Self-Leveling Lap Sealant for RV is a Polyurethane. SikaFlex is better and cheaper! I own an RV, I know what works and what doesn't. Don't ask me though, do your own research. You obviously don't research so I doubt this conversation is going anywhere.
@@brotherbonesx3163 I don't have an RV, I have hundreds of RVs....lol I've maintained, sealed and 10s of thousands of RVs and It's going pretty well for me and my customers.....guess we'll just agree to disagree. I'm glad you found a sealant that you like.
Never use silicone. Use butyl tape only. Silicone will separate from the substrate and leak, and will be extremely hard to remove the silicone residue when doing a future repair. Very amateurish.
For someone who has just restored a 97 travel trailer PLEASE NEVER USE SILICONE. Every where the previous owners used silicone there were leaks and it’s near impossible to completely remove . The only reason I could see to use silicone would be for emergency situations where you can’t find the proper stuff.
I’m sorry, but I laugh when ppl say don’t use silicone. I don't wanna to bash any ones intelligence, but everyone’s got different situations. Fiberglass/metal, different temperature zone, etc etc etc. It’s 2018, and we siliconed all the exterior joints with silicone in Aug of 2011. That’s 7 years ago. I’ve got the receipts and it’s in our camper folder. And guess what? it’s still working strong. I can't see redoing in in the next two years. Getting 7 years performance out of it, that is pretty damn good!!! So please don’t comment to never use silicone, there are so many variables and not to mention different qualities and brands...... to each his own.
Thanks for the advice... What kind of silicone would you recommend? And does soapy water help like he said in the video? What is your preference? Thanks in advance 😎 .
I agree however I noticed that more and more RV manufacturers use silicone for cap seals . 😠 It's cheap, cheap and almost impossible to repair or replace silicone is a Good glue but a bad sealant for something that moves
Silicone is fine for an RV. There is nothing supernatural about your RV. EPDM won't stick to an area that has silicone (around a roof vent, etc.). Otherwise, it is fine. Silicone is all-around sufficient for any crack or gap on the siding, around windows, and places like that.
@@MRRVTECH Silicone is not a proper, long lasting sealant and has terrible adhesion properties. After an application, silicone won't even stick to itself. The statement is not ludicrous nor unfounded. Urethane sealant should be used. I recommend some research on your part.
Not sure what that phrase means, but sealed up 2 today....been going 18 years strong, and have a 5.0 rating. Thanks for watching and helping my youtube income increase!
All these comments saying don’t use silicone, don’t use silicone. Okay I won’t buy that Home Depot, Menards weak shit u buy, but rather aquarium grade that will outlast any caulk crap You use.
