Thank you very much. I used to make real good $ when I was young and always wanted to show other folks that that occupation will never be taken by a robot - period. I always felt confident I could make a living. Thanks again - Jerry
I found this older video searching for how to use a stud puller. Must say that is THE BEST visual demonstration of heat shrinking to fix oil canning that I have ever seen. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us DIY guys.
I worked in a body shop and for years had issues with oil canning sheet metal from stretched metal in collision work. When I stumbled on this technique it was an instant game changer - woks every time. Sometimes you have to do it 2-3-4 times on the same panel but stick with it and it will eventually stop the problem :)
I’m an amateur but good lol…. Learned a ton from you and my friend Pete … swrnc … d I y auto school…. Anyone who watches Pete has to get he is a little abrasive ish shall we say , but if u watch a few of his playlists , he is a hard working person with a great wife and a big heart ❤
The stud welder is a great tool, but I'm happy to see I'm not the only one that has problems with getting the little thumb wheel to securely grab the studs. i love your no nonsense approach to your videos. I look forward to all. Keep up the GREAT work...
Yeah - they need to spend some more time engineering that little guy. Faster to just grab the vise grips or this tool: www.jbtools.com/steck-20085-ez-pull-pliers/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwppSEBhCGARIsANIs4p6o5LphfwgslKP9gg4P8X8KX9_W6YdcHnpw0RkEhjMxFW9rRLNpGIEaAkm2EALw_wcB Glad you appreciate no nonsense approach - have a great day :)
If it looks east spreading mud it’s cause Jerry makes it look easy … truth is if u have a passion and a knack u can pick it up Quik …. My first car in 1984 got lots of mud and I just loved doing it … done a few cars for friends over the years and feel at 56 never too late…. Anyone with at least an arm and a leg could get around a car and love on it
I usually use 36grit on a long board and do the same thing. Instead of the cheese grater. then i mud hog or air file. You do have to keep the paper clean but i rather do that then use a cheese grater. That's just me. What ever works 👍🏾
first time ever seeing this channel i found that tool now i need suggestions on a good stud welder i have a nasty dent like that behind the bumper of my suburban
I bought the one from harbor freight - if you're not going to be using it every day, it'll work fine for you. It may even hold up to every day use - seems tough to me.
You should check out the Stud Lever (also made by Steck). This is an ingenious device that has an adjustable fulcrum so that you can push down a high spot, or 'eyebrow', while pulling a stud at the same time. Much better to use than the supplied impact puller that came with the HF stud welder.
I've got that stud welder. When I try to weld it to my 2016 mazda cx-9's hood, it goes right through it. It doesn't weld but punches a hole instead. It seems like the hood is made of aluminum. Can you please help? Would be great if you can.
Do you mean a full paint job from start to finish? Because I've been thinking of a way to do that yet fit it into like 20 minutes. I will upload one like that though called Garage Paint Job - Start to Finish or something like that :)
Great work i have been watching alot of your vids what kind of bondo are u using i just bought that cheap bondo brand from Wal-Mart not sure if its good to use or not
Jerry have you ever had any problems with getting your studs not sticking? I got my unit from Harbor Freight like you did and it seems that my studs aren't sticking or they pull off and leave a small hole. thanks in advance, I enjoy your videos. Keith
Yes I have. I had that problem for one or two jobs. I wasn't sure if it was the metal, the studs or the gun. I keep the tip very clean and make sure the metal is very clean too. Not sure what caused it but haven't had that issue in a while now - Let me know if you continue having the same problem or get it solved :)
Start sanding your filler with 36-40 grit (cuts nice and straight). Finish sanding filler with 80 grit then prime with a few coats of primer surfacer. Block sand your primer surfacer with 120-180. Primer again, finish sand with 240-320 DA or 320-400 wet sand.
Block always gets it a bit straighter. Not that some folks aren't awesome with the DA but it's a lot safer to use a hand block - safer meaning you won't mess it up :)
Works just fine. The blue truck on my channel icon is lacquer primer with urethane BC/CC. Turned out real nice and is holding up just fine. I use lacquer primer under all new paints and never have a problem at all.
The studs I am using aren't sticking. How long do I wait for stud to set? I'm using the harbor freight studs that came with the stud welder from Harbor freight.
@@johnwoolfrey5093 I'm happy for you - they are very handy! I used to use one in the shop I worked at on a lot of the dents I worked on. I used it for a ton of stuff. Did you get the big one or the little one?
Interesting method. Where can I get a mini pogo stick? Or did you make that ? Map gas to shrink? I bought the stud welder but had difficulty with the puller. I wanted to look at your ser up again. I bought the short pogo stick too.
Heating the metal up like that would burn the protection coating off the back of the metal and cause it to start rusting from behind. Of course that's job security
Here's the best way to prevent rust - new car or old because all new cars come with bare metal in the pinch welds - rockers, door panels, etc. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XaZBy7GC7A.html
I think it's a bit long but each one is different so it it works for you, you're doing it right :) I hold it for about 1-2 seconds depending on the size stud I'm using. Thicker studs = longer time.
@@johnsutter1497 I start with the thinnest studs for the newer cars and that usually does it. If they don't and you need more pulling strength then you can move up to the bigger ones. Sometimes it depends on the dent too i.e. severe damage = bigger studs \ light damage = smaller stud
With respect - that's what you see on TV, magazines and internet. In a body shop no one ever worries about it because filler doesn't fail if used correctly.
On that I'm using the 2mm studs. I do have the 3mm ones but for some reason I stick with the 2's. If I need to pull something real serious I mig weld body shims onto the panel where I need them like an upside down horse shoe and pull from them - either with the frame machine or hustler/pogo stick.
