Good Vid Ben. A few veteran tips..turn the system on at the thermostat and lower the temp. Let it continue to run on the inside to help boil off any liquid left..also this way you can just use the disconnect to power the compressor so you dont have to hold the contactor, ive seen that end badly bro.
👍 Please remind viewers to purge air from gauge hoses b4 pump down. Also if you push the hose seal tight while turninging the knurled collar, it will form a seal to minimize refrigerant blow off. Learn to do it quickly. Works in installing of hoses too. But the best is a low-loss valve that you can open the shrader after the hose is attached.
Using gloves is definitely a good idea. Especially if you're new to working with refrigerants. I should have been wearing them but forgot as I took them off to start the video. Stay safe and thanks for watching!
Thank you very much! A little safety note: In a manufacture manual book, I saw that they say that need to be careful not to face the taps (when removing the taps covers), because in rare cases they might fly... I really enjoy your videos. Just so you know!!
Nice job Ben , yes just refreshing my memory , but you need to get a valve port ratchet with a reversible Allen nub, I bought one about 2 years ago and they are a life saver , thanks again brother be safe.
Very clear and easy to follow instructions. I plan on moving my AC condenser about ten feet to put in a deck. My only concern is disconnection and reconnection of the Hi & Low pressure lines. Will I need to vac the lines from the inside & will I need lose any of my R-22 left in the lines or coil? I would Appreciate an answer from anyone who has done this.
It's Best to Turn The System on At thermostat and Not just rely On Contactor, if You happen to be doing this on a Heat Pump, Most Brands Run In Heat Mode With Just the Contactor Pushed In. It's Just Good Practice. Some Units Will also Have a Blowout Valve That Releases Pressure Back Into The System when It Gets Too High, This Usually Happens about halfway through pump down, If You Get a Sound Like Pressure is being Released don't Flip Out and Just Start closing The large valve. I also crank The Large Valve down About halfway Before I start In case it does blow back I can Close It faster. You may have Freon Left In the lines after That Happens, You will need to 'recover' it Before You can Cut the lines. Also, I have Never had any issue pumping down a r410a system. I've never heard or seen any Manufactures That Warn Against It. I've Done it thousands of Times.
Thanks for the video. Is it necessary to connect the pressure gauge to the low pressure line? I have a 25 year old condenser that is very very low in refrigerant. Can I not just close the high side and let it run for a minute and then close the suction side? I know it may suck up some air, but the condenser is going to taken to recycling. I will be having an HVAC technician doing the install for a new system. I just want to save some money by removing old HVAC. So I want to clear this space and place the new condenser so that I only pay for the essential services such as flushing the lines, making the electrical connections and soldering the copper piping to get it all started.
Most service valves have clear access and the wrenches fit better. Thanks for the smart Alek comment though. I definitely feel better knowing how I can improve. ;)
Just remember. Compressers suck. Close the discharge line off. Let the compressor suck all the Freon into itself. Watch the pressure drop. Once it’s below like 5psi. Close the suction line. AND WEAR GLOVES!
Thanks for all your great videos Ben, is it safe to pump the refrigerant into the condenser for the winter season? I have a small leak in the evaporator and every two years I need to add refrigerant. the condenser its a 20 year unit copper lines and the compressor was replaced 7 years ago.
Do you have a video on restarting the system after replacing the evaporator coil? If you're replacing the evaporator coil wouldn't you have to evacuate both the liquid and vapor lines before reconnecting them or opening them to the compressor?
Awesome videos! Two questions, what do you think of stop leak for a slow leaking 25 year old Trane R22 split system? Can you recommend one? Also, if this won’t work do you have a preference on brand for a new 5 ton unit? Thanks!
Don’t use the stop leak…it ruined my ac unit supposedly….im going to find out one way or another since I’m blacklisted and have to do the bs myself…my exhusbands new wife has influence over the hvac guys in my area and since she’s 500lbs and ugly meaning she’s jealous cuz I’m not a cow even though I don’t want anything to do with my ex lol….stupud idiotic drama
Ok! Ben did not use a socket extension for this task. He knows that he didn't! There are no awards for reminding Ben to use an extension! He got the job done without an extension, how's that!
I don't recommend pushing in the contractor while doing this unless you first turn on the blower motor inside in order to boil off all the refrigerant in the evaporator otherwise you won't remove all the refrigerant
Hi thanks for a great video. Question. I had a leak on my system at the dryer filter and all gas 410a leaked. Now I have to fix it and also pull a vacuum. My question is that now how do I pull a vacuum on the entire system including compressor? No one shows that in their videos. People only pull vacuum on the lines with service valves closed. I’ll appreciate any help!
How long was the system at atmospheric pressure? The compressor oil is polyester and hence hydroscopic. Make sure to change the filter dryer and use one as large as you can find if it has been open for more than an hour. Make sure to re-check the filter dryer for temperature differential after the first few hours of operation. Connect the vacuum lines to both ports and make sure that the isolation valves are completely open AND the caps are seated tightly. Use a micron gauge and follow the normal vacuum guidelines. Note: As per most manufacturer's guidelines: Do not unbraze the filter dryer! Cut it from the circuit and install a new one.
devious dom thank you so much for the guidance. The leak happened about a week and I haven’t had a chance to work on it as it’s been raining and they say not to work on HVAC in rain. I hope the compressor is ok. I checked and there is no gas in the system. When you say isolation valve is open do you mean service port for compressor? So it’s ok to pull vacuum from inside compressor correct?
@@HowToDoitright the two valves at the bottom of the unit where you connect your gauges are the isolation valves. That's also where you pull your vacuum. In your circumstance, you need a good deep vacuum on the entire system including the compressor. Make sure that you use a micron gauge. If you only have 1/4" hoses, expect to leave the pump on for about 4 plus hours, maybe longer (follow micron rating instructions).
Great video. Got a question. We have a cracked concrete under the ac unit and needs a replacement. It is removable concrete. If you have two people lifting the ac unit up and one person changing the concrete do you still need to pump down and cutting wires and other stuff that is connected?
@@BenjaminSahlstrom We finally got it fixed. We replaced the top part of the ac unit. I don't know why but the technician all of sudden moved the ac unit by few inches. We turned on the ac it worked good, then I asked him if he can move the ac unit back where it was. He said it is not good to do that because it can break the pipe. But I asked to him to do it please because I am thinking all the pipes and lines needs to be in the same place as before. So he did moved it close to where it was. Is this okay? Few inches of movement? I am worried if any pipes or lines are now messed up.
What about hooking it back up. I Jsut removed 2 45k btu single zone Mitsubishi units off my garage that’s as only used 2 weeks and I stlling them in my new house. Once it’s all hooked up can I open the lines and run them or have them come purge them
Thanks for this video. My 32 year old condenser (York 3.5 ton) doesn't appear to have service valves. Rather it has a type of valve that once opened cannot be closed. As the valve plunger is cranked down it shears off an internal plug, thus opening. Ever seen anything like this on a condenser?
When you connect your line to the service port you should have purged the air out on the other end. Now that system has a line full of air in it with the refrigerant that you can't get out
Mathew Barnes Great thought. My hoses likely already had R22 in them but to be 100% certain you would want to bleed them first. Thanks for your comment!
I don’t suppose you have a video for getting the refrigerant back in to the system from the compressor. I have had my system pumped down so I could move it, now I have reinstalled the system I need to “pump up” the system (I guess you would call it) to get it back working again. Many thanks
I would imagine just reopening both the high and low side? Remember he closed the high completely and partially closed the low before the pump and then closed it off after. Now both are closed. So to restart would be to reopened both, wait a bit or turn the system on and off a couple times until circulation is back? Just guessing bro. If you found the answer plz let me know.
I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee i ride and a parts jeep 96 Cherokee Country. Ok My ac compressor locked up on the 2000 . it wasnt working and was making funny noise b4 it finely locked up. So i knew the one in the 96 was good so i took the 96 off but the lines attach different on the 2000. where they go in the main back on the 96 and on the top of the 2000. So i changed the back out so i could use my 2000 lines etc. I put new oil 4 oz. ruffly maybe a little more and it took the oil fine but will not take the freon. I paid a guy 25 bucks to have it vacuumed and had no leaks but it still wont take freon. could a bad AC pressure switch cause it not to take freon or maybe the condenser is stopped up when the compressor locked up and iit got metal in the condenser and stopped it from taking freon or what... Im at a lost and dont have much money...but I need my ac bad. i have a hard time breathing when i get really hot... So all help appreciated...
hey Ben, I have a scroll compressor on an older R22 Lennox. Can you pump down a scroll and then thers a low pressure cutoff, how do you get around that? Model HS 25 411P Thanks
