How to Raise a Triumph Stag

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🚗 Following the recent video where we looked at where best to jack up a Triumph Stag, TR T reports back with a few pointers from you Lovely Lot!
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Jacking Body Panel (note a screw thread)
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Jacking Pin
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3 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 13

@youcanthandlethetruth1 6 месяцев назад

We started restoring a 1974 Stag last year and we had this question when we started - there's not a lot of info online about where you can jack the stag. Thanks for this video

@ArryTheStag 5 месяцев назад

Hiya - yes, someone wrote in about this a few weeks back, which prompted us trying to find some answers - and there were precious few comments on line to research. All the best and thanks for posting! Kind regards TR T

@andyday3571 4 месяца назад

There should be 4 jacking points the 2.5 triumph all the estate they have the same inspection parts as the stag underneath and the same Jack as well it is the same dashboard

@centaurus5676 5 месяцев назад

Block of wood under the trailing arm. Never Jack these up under the sill.

@krisking751 6 месяцев назад

When I raise Stags/2000+2500s I've always used the front crossmember and supported with axlestands near the radius armsand outriggers. At the rear I've always raised them up a side at time on the rear subframe and supported with axlestands at the outer edge of the rear subframe where the big bolts are. As I was told by 1st boss if its strong enough to hold suspension components to the car it is strong enough to jack off. I would only use the vehicles scissor jack for roadside emergency.

@ArryTheStag 5 месяцев назад

Hi Kris - thanks for this ..it all adds up as a valuable resource for others. Fully agree that a scissor jack is for the roadside not for more in depth work. All the best TR T

@anthonywilliamson7323 6 месяцев назад

Beautiful car , a car I always wanted, I had a 2.5 pi and a 2000 but that was as near as I got . Great video.

@ArryTheStag 5 месяцев назад

Thanks Anthony - these cars are such a joy! All the best TR T

@brianwhittington5086 6 месяцев назад

Hi Tony. The Rover SD1 has a thick, welded jacking point bracket that is bolted between the bumper bracket and bodyshell, on all 4 corners. It has a square tube pointing outwards, and the jack is a tall screw pillar type with a solid square lifting arm that slides in the tube. Early cars had one inch square rubber bungs to cover them. Series 2 cars had the deep plastic extension covers below the front bunper. The front points also incorporated the towing/ lashing eye on all models. All 4 bolt directly to the chassis ends, so it's a very strong jacking point. It wouldn't be too difficult to make a similar neat bracket with a round or square tube to suit the Triumph range and use a matching pillar type jack. I made similar brackets for the bumper mounts on my P6 Rover's. Anyone familiar with the Rover P6 will know they are notorius for the sill side lift jacking points buckling behind the bolt on outer sills.

@ArryTheStag 5 месяцев назад

Thanks Brian - some great points and I'm sure they'll help others too. All the best TR T

@davidstuart4915 6 месяцев назад

garages often use the diff, is this ok?

@ArryTheStag 5 месяцев назад

Hi David - I know some do, however be very careful of the car slipping off. Personally I always try and use a block of wood wherever I can on axle stands and on the main areas discussed rather than the diff. Wood tends to 'grip' the car better (as it flexes under the weight). All the best Kind regards TR T

@KJs581 5 месяцев назад

I have seen them do that a lot, and while the diff housing is incredibly strong, look at what you are actually lifting. The diff "hangs" at the back by that large, wide crossmember. It is medium thickness steel, but when you get one off (I have one in the garage somewehere) it isn't a very heavy piece of kit (unlike front box section crossmembers) but gets it's strength from the fluting/folded edges etc. That crossmenber is designed to support the rear weight of the diff, and while it also has some of the weight of the front "vee", (that is the nose of the diff and the crossmembers and trailing arms) the outer rubber mounts take most of that weight. The cars weight is shared between front mounts of that "vee" and through trailing arms through springs to the body, all designed for it. The aft diff crossmember and body mounts for it are really designed for the diff to hang on them, and while reasonably heavy, they are not designed to take the weight of lifting the body/rear of car on them, so while most diff housings are capable of being pushed from under (and I still don't like doing it, I lift live axles under spring saddle area, not diff centre) I don't like doing it. People can do what they like, their cars, but there are lots of nice, heavy lifting points as detailed above. Why "balance it" on the diff housing? But each to their own. 🙂