This is an excellent tutorial. We're remounting my Thrusts onto sneakers for my kid this week. It's our first full DIY custom build and we can use all the help we can find!! Thank you so much!!
what size are your shoes and your skates !? you didn’t have to buy new plates for the shoes then eh? that’s the part i’ve been worried about because i don’t want to buy new plates!
I think those R3 were a size 8, shoes prob similar. Yeah you can often find old skates and take parts off them. Might need to replace the cushions and pivot cups bc those wear out with age.
I'm replacing my Luna skate plate with the Reactor Neo....is there anyway you could plz help with info on changing plates on skates that already have plates? Do I need extra hardware? Do I need to drill holes in my boots to change/upgrade plates? Where do I even start?
I do have another video on remounting Bonts, someone wasn't happy with the placement so she had me remount them. I filled the existing holes with epoxy resin and drilled new ones. You might be able to re use the mounting hardware or you might need to buy more. A mounting set costs about $10 from a roller skate shop. You can also get parts from the hardware store but you need to make sure you get lock nuts. I wrote an article on my blog with more details. Basically you need to decide where the new plates should be and it's possible you'll be able to use the old holes but often you can't. I've never had Lunas before but some entry level boots aren't strong enough to take many re-mounts so it's possible the sole will give out eventually.
You never know what you get when you buy used! So true! I’ll share my experience. I bought an old pair of labeda that looked very nice! The boot started coming off the sole withjn a week! Had to use shoo goo to fix it but idk how safe the skate is. A $200 lesson! Thankfully the sunlite plate is $80, and I’ll get to learn how to mount something in my future! :) the money sometimes pays for the lesson and not the skate lol
Oh no!!!! That’s terrible! I usually have good experiences but I was also burned once, someone obviously had tried to hide in the pics that the boot was coming off the sole 😡 usually it’s just rusty bolts I have to deal with
I cut the insole, I have another video on it. I bought them on a German website but you can maybe find some at the hardware store. If you don't want to cut yourself you can prob find some on etsy or maybe a skate shop but I'm not sure if CiB makes them anymore.
I clicked on this video to decide if I could mount my plates on some Vans but, as you said, the ankle would be naked and that's really scary for me. I chose to skate in artistic boots too. I'm a beginner and I'm having a really hard time breaking them in. I've worn them past 10 hours and they never seem to soften even a little. Do you have any tips for breaking them in? I can't stand them for more than 15 minutes. I don't know if this is normal. Since the boots are so stiff, maybe they requiere more time to break them in. (OMG! You have other videos with great content! Subscriiiibeeeed!)
Since I've made this video I've learned a little more about artistic boots. The ones I had were probably an entry level Risport with a firmness of around 30. Much firmer than that might actually be too firm. I tried some once that were way too firm for me, even with my firmness preference. For my Risports, it took me about 3 full skate sessions to get used to them, but if you're consistently feeling like they are too firm maybe they are in fact too firm for park skating. I wish I could edit the video with this info but AFAIK youtube doesn't let you do that. If there is one or 2 spots that are giving you trouble you can go to a cobbler to get the spots punched out, like maybe in the toes or ankle.
Thank you for this thorough and helpful video. I removed the powerdyne plates from moxi’s and replayed with sunlite. Really could have used the tips on the locking bolts as I trial and errored my way through getting them to stay. Anyway, would you list all the specific hardware you recommend or prefer; ie bolts sizes, nuts and thickness and type of metal insole. I now want to mount the powerdyne plates on a pair of old school nike’s I have. Thank you 🙏🏼
That's such a good idea I'm embarrassed I didn't do it in the first place. Actually I see I linked to a blog post that I never wrote, how embarrassing. Maybe I’ll write it now… Anyway, I almost always use counter sunk M5 machine screws. The only exception is if I'm going to do a Roll Line plate I use M4, and if I'm going to use T nuts (which I talk about in the soccer cleat video) I use button head screws, but still M5. For Vans mount I like using 25mm long screws in the front and 30mm in the back, but I think that can vary based on the shoe. The screws you get at the skateboard shop will probably be 25mm, and you can probably find 30mm at the hardware store. For something like a Maxi Jack I’d use 25mm in the front and then ideally 55mm in the back. You can always get long screws and cut them down but I prefer to have the right size and not have to do any of that, when possible. I’m actually US American but it’s been awhile since I’ve lived in the US so I don’t remember if you can buy metric sizes at the hardware store or if you’ll have to find the nearest approximation. I always use nuts with nylon on the inside. If you do that I don’t think it matter if you use a lock washer or not; that will stay. In an older video I used 1.5mm aluminum for the insole but I found 2mm is a lot easier to cut, and of course stronger. I’ve never used thicker than that and when I asked around the general consensus seemed to be that any thicker is unnecessary unless maybe the skater is especially heavy. With Sunlite plates I like to get a a 5/8" split washer to put between the toe stop and the plate. The washers you buy at the skate shop are not good enough. Eventually you’ll get to a point where the toe stop keeps wanting to fall out, but that will fix it. I think that's everything. Thank you for your kind words!
You mean T Nuts? I've also heard that makes an aluminum insole unnecessary, if the plate is long, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet. I'm planning on trying it pretty soon though.
thank you so much! In that case follow my real human account, I link to it on the RSR insta. I try to make this channel mostly useful info, not so much about me. I put some skating in my favorite tutorial: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K9_TcLde5WI.html&ab_channel=RollerSkateRevival
Hi! Do you recommend getting shoes a size bigger than you normally wear? I saw that advice on a site. Also did you drill through the aluminum sole and the sole of the shoe at the same or did you do the metal sole first, untape it then do the regular shoe dole? I couldn't tell. Thanks!
hi! tbh Vans skates aren't my favorite so I can't give you experienced advice on whether you should size up or not. I've heard both, that you should size up a 1/2 size, and I've also heard people say they sized up and they were too big. Keep in mind you do need to make room for the insole, so if your normal size is tight tight tight I'd say yes, but if your normal size in shoes would allow you to put in a 2mm insole and not suffer, I'd say stick with it. It's a balance between needing to make room for the insole, and also needing skates to be snug, maybe more snug than your shows are. As for the drilling, yes i went straight into the shoe. i might have drilled again to widen the hole after untaping, but overall i did insole and show at same time.
These are the Powerdyne Thrust, which comes on the Moxi Lolly and lots of other Powerdyne (Riedell) skates. But this info is applicable to just about any boot/plate combo, except of course some of the advice is Vans-specific.
The more important issue is getting the right wheelbase for you. Wheelbase is the distance between the front and back axle, on one side. If you search skate facebook groups/forums you'll find all kinds of opinions on long or short wheelbase. Basically short wheelbase is more maneuverable but might feel unstable, long wheelbase is more stable but might feel clumsy like you can't move smoothly. It depends on your experience level and what kind of skating you want to do. The length of the plate itself is not as important, except ofc you don't want one much longer than the shoe itself.
@@rollerskaterevival8484 Thank you for the info. The reason I'm asking is I found a pair similar to the ones you have in this video, but they're size 12. I'm probably a 10-11 so I wasn't sure if the plate would stick out passed the toe/heal of the boot.
@@DJ_LampShady aha. Well each company has their own sizing that doesn't necessarily correspond to shoe sizes. It's annoying. For example I'm usually a size 9 in shoes so an 8 or 7.5 in most skates but my Sunlite plates are a size 5.
@@rollerskaterevival8484 Just wanted to say thank you one last time. I finished up a set of vans skates today and they turned out great thanks to your video.
do you think you could use an older pair of skate shoes? like ones that are a little too smooth on the balls of feet and thusly no longer useful for skateboarding?
I would expect those to fall apart more quickly than a new set, of course, but i you don't mind just doing this all over again with another pair of shoes when they do, I don'y see why not.
5:05 I learned the other week that those strange square bits that sometimes come with screw bit assortments actually work very good for turning Phillips head screws. When I found that out, my mind was blown. Try it out sometime.
@@rollerskaterevival8484 I'm not sure what they're called, but they look like any other flat head or Philips bit, but instead of the cross or line pattern it is a solid square. They're commonly used to install square head screws for decking on houses, but they work well for removing Phillips screws as well. Even if you strip the screw out, you'll notice the square bit will fit snuggly in the center which will allow you to get one more try. You can also try penetrating oil like "PB Blaster" which is supposed to make it's way into the threads to provide lubrication and make them easier to remove. One more thing; I'm not too sure about skates, but when I'm working on cars and I am putting together something that may have to be replaced years down the line like a water pump or alternator, I'll usually put on a bit of "anti seize" on the threads when I reinstall everything to lower the possibility of having any stubborn bolts or screws in the future.
@@BleuSkiddew That's great to know, having a stripped screw is just pure misery. I hope I have never have any case to use your advice but if I strip another screw I'll try it out. I do (now) actually often add a tiny bit of anti-seize or any weak lube (once i even used chapstick) to toe stops. Never thought to do it to mounting hardware, but maybe something to consider. Unfortunately that was probably not my practice when i made this video 2 years ago and I can't edit videos, only description. Anyway, keep the advice coming-- i don't have much of a tooling background so a lot of stuff that's common knowledge is new to me.
