Roller skating is not experiencing a revival, it’s always been here! I help you revive second-hand roller skates into something new for you, or do other DIY projects.
I'd say pretty much, but tbh I made it a long time ago and don't fully remember everything i said in it. I also have a video on a Bont remount and one on making skates from Vans, those might be more applicable.
@@rollerskaterevival8484 thank you!! My skates are like a decade old and the boot ripped open so I ordered new boots but I can’t afford the $50 for this guy to mount them so idk
Awesome video 😊 I’m doing the same mount! What drill size do you use? I’m not sure if I take the same as the screws or a tiny bit smaller… (first time mounting 😊)
Have you ever tried changing the plate on the flanuerz or slades rolling base? I'm trying to figure out if there are any plates that would work better without having to drill a bunch of new holes or interfering with the mechanical part.
some guy on quora said "I tried remove rust using vinegar, all the rust came off so I went to school I got home and everything was super rusty". I just covered it using vinegar and im afraid of second rust, what i sould do?
I love this, so informative, especially your mounting advice because I bought plates which were 2 sizes short according to the shop (I ignored their advice lel) and it turns out they are the perfect length for how I skate :) just like this build. I built my first ever pair of skates doing alu-insoles on trainers and didn't know about this whole foot-ball shoe thing. These are pretty much the same as expensive roller-derby/jam boots but at a ridiculous fraction of the cost! Here in the UK we cant buy jackson/VNLA boots very easily but used adidas cleats are everywhere (I found one on the street last night - true story) Can't wait to remount my plates on a pair of these! Tip by the way for getting the drill to go in straight - first use a counter-sink drillbit to create little craters before going in with the normal drill-bit! (countersink bits are pointy at the tip and easier to hold in place)
Thank you, I'm aware. When I played roller derby my wheelbase was 145mm and now for park skating I'm at more like 175. I don't want agility for this setup, and the flipside of agility is "falling often". The Xtremes are super stiff so this is my safe and protective setup. I have antiks with narrow trucks, some former derby skates, when I want agility.
This is a great example of the process. One word of caution, if you do cut the prongs off the t-nuts be very careful of holding them when using the drill. If the nut starts to spin it can cut your thumb up pretty bad and make you bleed all over your brand new magnesium avenger plates
Did I understand you correctly - you are using a plate size that is bigger than the one recommended for your boot size? I desire to have a longer wheelbase, and I wonder if this is my solution.
Well "recommended" by whom? for example when i was in derby I'd use one shorter than recommended by manufacturers on their sizing charts, for agility, but it was within "recommended" size for people who build derby skates. I recall I did get the largest plate I could fit on my boot, but now that I look up the a sizing chat I see the size I got is what would be recommended (by whoever made the chart). In general you are correct, plate size is preference based on skate style, for example my very smallest wheelbase is around 145mm and my longest is around 175, depending on the purpose of the skates.
@rollerskaterevival8484 - yes, recommended by the manufacturer site. I suppose I could go by how long my boot is and compare to total length of the plate in order to get the longest one. My recommended plate is a size 4 sunlite fir a size 6 men's boot but by my measurements, a size 5 plate is exactly as long as my boot, and would hopefully fit. I want the 170ish wheelbase.
@@allisonhay8760 Thank you! on that boot I use hockey tape. The black one stays on pretty well (I had white which did not, don't know if it was the brand or what) and I just re-apply from time to time. By now it looks like my skates have tan lines, when I take the tape off. Something that's pretty much the same is gaffer tape but I *think* hockey tape is cheaper.
@@allisonhay8760 Also the sulite size 4 is weirdly small. the wheelbase is only 2mm bigger than the 3, and 16mm smaller than the 5! I don't know why. But I would expect a 5 to be really long on your boot, I'm usually a size 8 and my 5 was almost too long. Are you 100% married to the sunlite idea? Maybe consider something comparable, like SG Probe?
If u have a bunch of stuff to dip, look for gallon liquid acrylic clear, varnishes or pour mediums and use that to hydro dip instead of water. They dry quicker u would have to play with ratios or even add a little water. U can also do light coats of art resin after for a permanent seal.
@@stephenvarney334 This is a bit of a strange answer, which makes me uncomfortable because it's reading as hostile instead of helpful. Of course it wouldn't hurt to try it (unless I'm super using it wrong, haha), the reason I haven't done so if because my local skate expert told me it was really just useful for snyder products, which I don't use. Additionally I try to make videos for people who probably haven't committed to being the local skate tech and prob wouldn't have super specific tools like that. But I am curious if other people disagree with what I've heard, which is why I asked you if you disagreed with what he told me. Do you use it? Do you find it helpful?
I am sorry if I make you uncomfortable, it was meant to help. Almost the same centering device is used in woodworking to find the center of a board to divide it into two equal parts.
You never know what you get when you buy used! So true! I’ll share my experience. I bought an old pair of labeda that looked very nice! The boot started coming off the sole withjn a week! Had to use shoo goo to fix it but idk how safe the skate is. A $200 lesson! Thankfully the sunlite plate is $80, and I’ll get to learn how to mount something in my future! :) the money sometimes pays for the lesson and not the skate lol
Oh no!!!! That’s terrible! I usually have good experiences but I was also burned once, someone obviously had tried to hide in the pics that the boot was coming off the sole 😡 usually it’s just rusty bolts I have to deal with
A word of advice, hold your camera on the actual item you're giving information on instead of yourself. No offense, your awesome, just would rather see what ur talking about
Yes, this is great advice. The problem is I'm WAY too shy to ask for camera person help, so if I can't manage it with one hand or a little tripod, it's challenging.
Did your wheels turn gray after being in the sun? I dyed inline wheels with graphite synthetic and they came out jet black, I loved it, but then they turned the exact gray on the bottle after a few skates in the sun. I’m wondering if I just need to dye them longer.
Hm, no mine are still def black. i mean not as inky as at first but it's been like 2 years and i use them a lot so i'd say the fade is acceptable. i did keep them in for awhile. and please make sure you're using the synthetic dye
@@rollerskaterevival8484 Yep I used synthetic. I guess the secret is leaving them in longer. They were a beautiful jet black when I took them out but they were only in there 10 minutes. The dye lightened and became the shade of gray on the bottle so it worked as advertised 😂
I really appreciate how thorough your review was. I am so uncertain about what boot to get, but the shock absorption sounds very ideal. I’ve been getting a lot of knee pain from jumps, and hope something like this may help.
I used to get knee pain but what really helped me was FP insoles. I’m not affiliated or anything I just think they’re really good. I wear them in my parkstars bc otherwise the bont insole is basically nothing
Nice video! With the Parkstars, did you feel the top of the skate with your foot like above your toes? I think I might have accidentally put some force on top with heat moulding and now mine feel claustrophobic :/
Thank you! the answer: yes and no. my parkstars are very comfortable on my feet, I can wear them for hours and not notice any discomfort, BUT I have experienced what I think some people call "Bont Toe" -- ie toenails that got bruised, and eventually fell off. Sorry to be gross. I'm telling you bc I think the cause might have been pressure on my toe bed. So if i were you I'd rather have extra space, rather than pressure that might cause the toenail problem later. I think you should try to heat mold again, maybe with thicker socks.
I think you *can* but I'm sure it will break before too long, and if my experience is any indicator it will be very annoying to cut because thin aluminum shakes like crazy. If I were you I'd try to get some 2mm
Love this! One piece of safety advice, you shouldn’t wear gloves when working with power tools. It is easy for the blade to catch on the glove and then suck your hand into the blade. I’ll echo the other commenter on bubblers. They are awesome! A trick I’ve seen people use is to use spray adhesive to attach the aluminum plate to a piece of plywood. It stops the chattering. Pink insulation foam board makes for a great, cheap cutting station. You can keep your piece fully on the insulation and let the blade cut into the insulation a bit. I like to use a 1.5” thick piece, as it gives a nice stable surface with good clearance. I usually put the insulation on the ground and then just kneel over my work. You can use the insulation over and over until it no longer gives you a flat, stable surface to work off of.
haha I stopped paying my developer fee so they took it off, thank you so much for looking for it! <3 I have no idea if i plan on renewing and putting it back online or not
I have bont parkstars and can't get the kingpins out, I've tried hammering, bushing, grinding and even my dads vice, they just won't budge. Please help
unfortunately I don't think it is possible with all plates, the Bont tracer might be one of them. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful, you might need to go with one of the more stndard solution, like angle-grinder or filing them down.
@@rollerskaterevival8484 I've tried to push them out with a hammer like you did in the video and it only damaged them, I can no longer screw on the nut
@@ashxx3176 Oh my goodness, what you must be experiencing! So one of the reasons I like sunlites is bc they are simple and you can swap out their parts easily, but that's not the case with all plates--maybe not any others, actually. It sounds like the threads are damaged on the kingpin. If that's the case it can be fixed with a rethreader. It's possible the hardware store or mechanic shop will have this and will do it if you ask nicely BUT if you want it to be compatible with your old nuts you need to find out wha the threading was before (I don't know off the top of my head). Another idea is this tool *which I have never used* but it is meant for skateboards for this purpose: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xbPxrpeWqkA.html I don't know if the threading is the same as the Bont plate though.
Pretty well actually. They’re not a deep black now kinda old and dusty but def still black. If you find me on IG I’ll send a pic, I don’t think I can upload here
When mounting my bonts I drilled one of the hole ever so slightly at an angle so now I feel the hardware bolt inside. When I've been skating a for around 3 hours it really starts to hurt so I'm going to remount my bonts and be extra careful to keep the drill bit extremely perpendicular to the soul as I drill. I may even ask someone with a vice and drill press to help to avoid creating this same issue again. I think mainly it's an issue because the bolt is directly under my big toe where a lot of pressure is applied. Had it been in a slightly different position it would be a problem. I ditn like the bont hardware though. It feels like I have to over tighten it to get it to sink into the boot enough for me not to feel.
Tbh I expected to feel the hardware but I don’t, maybe bc it’s somewhere else for me. Maybe a thicker insole would help? I wonder if you would swap out the bont hardware for a countersunk screw head and drill with a countersunk bit, if that would help? My concern is I wonder if it would cause boot to weaken and crack.
@@rollerskaterevival8484 I'm open to ideas, counter sink could work. I think I will re-mount though because I've never been completely happy with it. I like my plates mounted in a sort of V shape, with the front off centre by a couple millimetres. The pre drawn centre lines on my bonts looked like they were already where I want them so I went with it but it's always felt a little off. I've mountes lots of skates and I'm usually quite accurate. Happy to re do these to get it just right. I will definitely only be moving the holes a couple millimetres though so hopefully the resin filling holds up and works well. My main issue is definitely the hardware under one of my big toes. I think it's kind of just the luck of tbe draw. I've had this before a little with one other pair where the hardware is directly under the point of my big toe that takes the most pressure. When the holes are elsewhere it's never an issue. Seems no matter how thick I make the in soles after enough hours in skates I feel it. I spend a long time on skates either dancing or street skating. Thick insoles also forces my toes upwards and I've had rubbing issues on time of my toes when they're too thick. Anyway, thanks for the great tips and content. Check out my skate videos, I think you'll like them.
@@JakeLDS AAAAAAA I’m such a fan of London street skating style! I think chopping is the coolest thing ever. Anyway, good luck! Sounds like you know what you like and k Le what you’re doing. And yeah I’ve heard the Bont pre-drawn lines are hit or miss, I’ve heard s few people say they didn’t like that placement.
Hi! Than you very much for the detailed video, it gives plenty of insight into mounting Wifas that are hard to find elsewhere! I was wondering about the wedge that you put in though, I am having a hard time finding/making an appropriate piece, so I wanted to know how important it really is. Does it stress the boot too much if we pull it all the way to the plate without a wedge? Does the bolt connection need a washer if we decide to do so? Thank you again for taking the time to read :)
Thank you for taking the time to comment! I would *not* say that the power wedge (aka toe wedge) is absolutely necessary and the reason I say that is 1) I've seen mounts by experienced people who know what they're doing and don't use them 2) I know the point is to reduce stress on the boot and tbh I've never seen a boot blow out prematurely bc it was just stressed too much from being pulled down like that. As far as I can tell it's more of a Best Practice, which I included so people would consider it as a possibility bc maybe they had never seen it/heard of it before. I don't think it's necessary at all. If you want to find one I suggest you look for your nearest artistic skating shop, and email them bc sometimes it's not on the site but if they sell Roll Lines or Edea products I'm sure they will have them. Whether I use it or not my washer use is the same, which is to say I put a washer between the lock nut and the plate (the toe wedge would go on the other side of the plate, between plate and boot).
@@rollerskaterevival8484 I see, thank you very much for the in depth reply! I will try to find some then, but won't stress it if it doesn't work out, it is relieving to know that the boots won't fail because of it :') Thanks again and happy skating!
