Great video! Couple pointers for the DIYers... 1. When you repack yourself, always replace ALL seals. Those piston seals are relatively inexpensive for the time spent on a project. I've seen cylinders sag or lose pressure and immediately guys jump to controls. Controls fail, but not nearly as much. When all along, it could be a leaking piston seal, especially if the cylinder is losing pressure. 1.5 - When you take that piston off, there are sometimes other seals to get at there. The key is to replace ALL seals, it also lets you clean everything up and thoroughly inspect all parts. 2. When using your vise, be careful when clamping down on the tube (this was a small tube, not likely to be damaged). There is very little clearance inside the bore and you can damage the tube very easily. There are a couple of options, 1 clamp closer to the base where a welded butt plate is or IF there is enough room to work, you can leave the tube pinned using the pinned base to counter the leverage when unlocking the gland. In a shop, I'm looking to clamp with my vise right on the eye of the base or pinning it. 3. GENIUS use of drill bits for pins! 4. Always protect the rod. Tools slip all the time and any little scuff on that chrome can result in seal failure. If you have exposed chrome, do everything possible to cover that up. 5. Check the glad really well if someone else did the re-pack. Sometimes guys will use picks and really chigger up the gland, then you unknowingly install, resulting chrome or seal damage. The smaller thicker seals are usually harder to dig out than larger gland seals. 6. If the piston was removed, you can also assemble the other way too. Look for a nice clean chamfered edge, usually on the piston side, there is usually a step machined allowing much more clearance once the piston is removed. 7. Always use petroleum based lubricants for lubrication, this mixes well with the hydraulic fluid in the tank and will not harm your system. And usually a nice clean thread grease/anti-seize is good to have on hand, just get the correct compound for your metal application. 8. Assemble the gland, Rod and piston then insert in the bore. The key for assembly, is to go slow, lube properly (really watch that outer gland seal, Backup+O-ring) and assemble straight and level. Hope some tips help all you DIYers out there! : )
So glad I saw this detailed comment write up. I need to rebuild my main ram on my 4t Yanmar excavator. Thanks Brian, your words are a life saver or should I say a dollar saver! 👍
Scratches in chrome shaft can be repaired with JB weld sanded down smooth with 600 wet dry. This is done by CAT service and approved. 30years experience.
Thank you Sir for this! Although the ram I need to work on is bigger, this video (and some comments) have made the job a whole easier and or course cheaper! 👍
Out of all the repair videos I've watched, you are the "ONLY" person to use a cresent wrench correctly. I've seen every mechanic use it backwards.Seriously CONGRATS.
wow, after over two years of internet searching and adding fluid to my front end loader on a small tractor ( use it maybe once a month) I believe I can fix this thing, thank you..
I did many of these cylinders and always used a air hammer on the metal where the rod end goes in the vibration of the air hammer with a round bit makes it come loose
never grease the rod...it will end up in the spool and in the pump and will deteriorate and make small blockages from the high heat and pressure. only lubricate the o-rings with aw32 or aw46.
@@andrewreddy7906 The grease will dissolve in the oil....ive been doing hydraulics for 25 years ...red wheel bearing grease or blue high temp grease works fine
One can use any power steering rack, fully driven pump and hoses from a junked auto. learn about spool valves is fun. Only negitive is the fluid seepage past low-fiction piston seals.
Could I suggest you find out how water is getting into, what should be a sealed system? I couldn't help noticing a kind of very slight milky appearance especially right at the front, if that makes sense.It would be prudent to sort this before hibernating for the winter. I am sorry to say I also wondered about contamination when the hydraulic oil is sharing a cell with grease? Albeit as you say a slight smear . Hope it is ok . Alistair in Scotland
Good evening ... Please explain about .. How to change the leather and silk and jade in Jakat Cutter PLR 950 C in the case of hydraulic oil bleeding from Jaks and here is all respect
Good fix, hope you get those solenoids straightened out I bet they are stuck and or gummed up from not being used. Hope you and the family have a Very Merry Christmas.
I did not see you remove the air, when I replace a hydraulic cylinder I fill the cylinder with hydraulic oil before connecting the hydraulic lines, this is tricky but it can be done even with a double acting ram.
I'd bolt that vise down better,then break that back bolt loose and slide the gland on from the nice perfect back end,then not put grease on it,and use whatever new fluid is going back in the reservoir
Stuck Spool in a solinoid not letting the oil go by .Just find the right on - Any burrs on the shaft Use a flat file to remove 4140 cleans up easy enough .
what about the air that trapped during rebuild process, did you do air beeding or something??, when if you do, how?? could you explain that?? Thanks in advance
+acet7 Actually, that is a good question. There is a static presssure in the lines when the pump is off. The pressure will not be 1500-3000 psi like when the pump is running. This is why when you lift a front end loader bucket up in the air, shut the engine off, the bucket will stay up as long as their are no leaks in the system or you let the pressure off with the controller. Merry Christmas!
read some of the other comments on don'ts an does. like replace contaminated hyd fluid flush the whole system. an filters. becareful of using a vise on cylinder walls. if you have a leak replace all seals. don't use grease for lube on new seals use the same hydraulic fluid you put in system. etc.
Does anyone have a video of how to take off a steering ram from an atlas 1302d excavator. Bolts probably rusted in but would like to know if I'm doing something wrong? Thank you
This is a good video but beware. Older equipment may have been reworked/modified so you find the seal kit doesnt fit. Happenedto me last week on a 69 Case skid steer.
i matched it up....it doesnt come in kit form....i stock thousands of individual seals and match them up as needed....I am the m&w hydraulics he was referring to in the video
I'm not sure what effect the carburetor cleaner will have on the new seal would be but I think I would be concerned . I had always heard from pros to never use WD40 where seals are involved because it will make the swell . Maybe the cleaner would have a similar effect .
brake clean and the like are fine in moderation...like dont put the seals in a bucket of it for days....for cleaning the gland piston and barrel it is fine....it evaporates quickly....wd40 wont bother seals....brake fluid will however ruin your seals....hoses...motors...and pumps
Glenn Kizziah. I don't know what the John Deere nut looks like, but in my Case 570 the holes for the pins are in the end of the nut, not the outside. Dad cut some 1/4" steel to make a wrench. It has a long handle and the head is C shaped to fit around the rod. Drill a hole in each side of the "C" and weld a pin in each hole. Just put the pins in the holes and spin the nut off. It works great and the same wrench seems to work on most, if not all, of the cylinders on the tractor
cool vid but man i cringed when you were blasting shit with chemicals with no gloves.... as someone who works in a heavy equipment shop my hands can only take so much. also wouldnt hydraulic fluid worked as a lubricant? i dont know how grease does in a hydraulic system but its my understanding that the only thing allowed in the system is hydraulic fluid. thanks for the content. hope your machine is running fine these days. edit: im no professional.... the bitch of the shop to be exact but am happy to be where im at
You really didn't rebuild the hydraulic ram like the title states, you too apart and put together. You brought the cylinder to a shop for them to perform the rebuild and didn't record it. I'm leaving a comment, but not giving a thumbs up or down.
