Watched part 3 today because I remembered to check between cam and lifter. I'm using the same cam but put new lifters in so just want to check it before closing the short block up. Got your info on here so good to go👍
My late father was a Volkswagen mechanic at a Volkswagen dealership and service manager just used freash oil on those oil cool seals the same with the push rod tubes he said that what the Germans did at at vw school .
Super awesome video and info!! Im about to install pistons n cylinders, now that you warned me.... ima gonna install that oil cooler first lol! Thanks again!
I usually do the pistons and cylinders then the oil cooler. Just so I dont drop a nut into that opening. still pretty accessible. and dont put the tin on that makes it much harder.
Yup having the tin in place would make it a bit of a pain.... As for engine assembly I probably do it in a little different order each time. If I were building engines all the time I'm sure I would have a strict method to my assembly but I don't build them that often.
Hi Jason, I got the VW 1200 book which has info for my 1965 engine. Great to have now that I measured everything and know the tolerances. After cleaning everything to where it's ready for rebuild will check the measurements again. From what I'm reading it shows wear at the low end of the tolerance in some locations. For a first time build not worried about an old stock engine but for my next build will spend the time and money to make it last and have more power. I'll be watching your videos on these for sure. Learning so much in a short amount of time. I'm starting to look at what years this engine will fit the early bugs other than the 65 it came out of?
Thanks for the info, I knew that was true with forged sets didn't know about that with the Hypereutectic sets... thought they were both mild steel or iron.
Could you recommend a parts supplier for a top end rebuild. Pistons-heads-pushrod tubes I dont need performance parts Just stock stuff. dual port 1972 motor. Im in NY and on a budget. great site thanks joe
All kinds of tools out there just for this. The key is that a 90 degree profile must be maintained. No tapering or burrs. This can also be achieved with a Dremel or file but care must be considered.
@@JWClassicVW Amazon has a very simple ring grinder. A hand turned grinding wheel on a flat surface so that ring ends stay 90 degrees from one another and flat .
I installed that higher pressure oil relief valve... and oh boy... that spring would not go in without a fight. If someone tries to open that jn future... they r gonna lose their eye balls 😅. I wonder if that will have any adverse effects of having too much pressure 😢
LOLOL... Yes those buggers can be scary for real... but the spring will relax as it heats up. You may want to install a oil pressure gauge though... always best to know.
@@JWClassicVW Great idea! Its better to know psi instead of just low pressure warning light. Do you have any videos on that? Do I install that at the same spot where the oil pressure switch goes on engine case below carb area?
Never hurts to run through a weights of pistons and rods. You can use a simple food scale to compare the weights. Same with the rods.... thanks for being here!
Why do those piston say 85.45 mm on them? I thought this was a 40 hp build? The 40 hp engines used 77 mm cylinders, and the pistons would have been 76.95 mm.
Correct that's what I came up with... I just rounded up a little... better to be a lil more vs a little less. Not much of a difference... Definitely not enough to cause any issues. Thanks for the comment brother, can't wait to get this build finished up after I get the Turbo done.
