General PSA-Not sure what type of grease was used for the slide pins but DO NOT use a petroleum based grease it will swell the rubber. Use a silicone grease like Syl-Glide. Awesome video
Have rebuilt many calipers over the years. I suggest using varying thicknesses of wood, in front piston, then using compressed air. Then there’s no chance of getting hit by the piston. Somebody already mentioned using Syl Glyde for re-assembly.
BleepinJeep if you’re gonna put together a kit, I use this blow gun all the time. Plus it keeps fingers out of the way. Looks & performs exactly like my more expensive Mac blow gun. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002XMYE0K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1516164503&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=astro+blow+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=41p-S5H2G3L&ref=plSrch
I've rebuilt calipers before on my truck, a little bit of time can save you $100+ on a new one. You don't need any fancy tools besides a compressor a c clamp and wrenches. Most brake shops will tell you that you need new rotors pads the whole works and a bill for a grand. The shops are out to separate you from your money.
+alnbaba Not true,you can't get the pistons for a brake caliper anymore if found scored.Buying a reman caliper saves time and labor,remove the old one and install the reman finally bleeding them them.I don't use the new sealing washers,they leak.I have found reusing the old sealing washers is the way to go.
It's not worth it, save time and labor putting on a reman caliper.The older GM calipers,$20.00 for a reman caliper.With rebuilding,no warranty and are throwing your money away when it fails again.with a reman,has a warranty.Plus you don't use the new crush washers,they don't seal worth a shit and leak.I reuse the old crush washers and no leaks
When I am reinstalling brake pistons I have a brass drift that I use to prevent marring the new piston. I think mine was just a piece of old brass rod stock that I chopped up and ground a flathead style tapered end on.
Hello, this video was fun to watch. Just a question and related suggestion. First, were the dust-boot and piston gasket (o-ring) changed for new ones or were they the cleaned originals? Related suggestion: Mention which parts are new/rebuild kit and which were simply cleaned. (If this was mentioned and I missed it, I apologize.) Thanks for the video! -Cheers
One thing I disagree with is using grease on the rubber pieces. You should use silicone spray or grease! It protects the rubber and debris doesn’t adhere to it.
1/2 impact on the bleeder... bad idea if its seized it will break where as with a wrench you would know its seized b4 breakin it and could heat them up a bit
+UBBERTANKER I actually used my 3/8 drive impact instead of the big boy. I agree though, probably not a great idea to get after it with too much gun or you might end up with a big problem.
Did you also spray the inside of the caliper where the piston sits? I was going to avoid doing that by putting some grease in there and leave it bare metal while spraying but if it's okay to paint it then I'll just hit the whole caliper with paint.
Hi, thank you for the informative video. I have a question. I am taking the stock Dana 30 out of my '92 YJ and ,while I rebuild it, I am swapping it with an '87 Dana 30. Naturally, the calipers are different (two piece in the '87 and one piece in the '92) My question is if the brake hose/ banjo bolt/ fitting is compatible with the two different caliper designs because then I can simply swap in the '87 axle (which is in good condition and comes with the calipers) and just use the stock '92 brake hose/ fitting. I can't find info on this anywhere on the net and I would greatly appreciate your feedback. Thanks!
Nice video. How did you prevent flash rusting after removing from water? Especially inside the caliper. Most instructions say to leave piston in and seal the interior off.
+TechnicalUplink I've never heard of evaporust, so cant help you there, sorry. I did NOT paint the inside of the piston housing. I masked off anything that will come in direct contact with the brake fluid because it will eat the paint and contaminate the fluid. Guess I should have shown that on camera...
Just a heads up everybody, turn your compressor way down when blowing the piston out. I just took two huge chunks out of one because it came out with so much force.
+bldeagle10 No, I masked off the inside of the piston as well as the threads to the bleeder screw and brake line. Brake fluid will eat paint and the tolerances inside the piston are pretty tight anyway. I probably should have shown that in the video, but it was getting a bit long.
I have found that unless its necessary because they are rare or unavailable, its time/cost prohibitive to rebuild calipers. Its a good thing to know how to do though! Usually a new caliper isn't much more expensive and your starting out with a good specs.
+Scott P I didn't show it in the video, but I actually masked the entire piston socket so that no paint would come in contact with the brake fluid. The seals are against bare metal so no leaking problem to date.
should definetly change gloves or remove greasy gloves between greasing the slides and wrestling the new pads in.. you want grease on those pads like you want brake clean in your cereal
why was this uploaded then made private and now reuploaded? he probly forgot to put something in the video and made it a deadly video since he would of been fucking up brakes
In the original video I lubed the caliper seal and piston with grease. This is NOT a good idea. I pulled the video down until I could correct the info to show you should ONLY use brake fluid to lube the piston and seal. I didn't think it was responsible to leave bad info out there when it comes to something as critical as your brake system.
