How To Rebuild Fork Seals on WP 48MM Open Chamber Forks 

Thanks *Rory Mccarthy!* Hey, you made quick work of those forks, nice work!

@@rmatvmc Any chance you guys have a video on setup of these forks? Regarding compression and rebound settings.

Great to hear! If you run into any questions down the road let us know, happy to help. Thanks for watching!

Muito obrigado! Ficamos feliz saber que vc gosta dos videos e que te ajuda. - Chase

2 you can always use the leftover for your oil can thingamob

Robert Varga I’ve read online that it’s usually just shy of 500ml per fork, so 600ml would make sense.

You are measuring oil height from top so there is no need to know ho much he initially pour in.

The lower part of the fork rotates freely so you shouldn't have to worry about that. We have a video that talks about installing the front wheel and aligning it with the forks that shows this better. You can check out that video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6LtDZrSsu2U.html

@@rmatvmc of course! How silly of me…

600 mililiters for one , 1200 for both

*Michael Mcmillan-* Check out the video at min 4:12. This is how we slide down the dust seal. Thanks.

Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thanks I'll try again tomorrow I don't think I was hard enough with it I was scared I damaged anything

Just to clarify, by flat or dead spot do you mean it feels like there is no dampening at the top of the stroke? I'm assuming it didn't have this issue before the fork rebuild? Installing the spring shouldn't create any issues with air in the system. Are you 100% sure that all the air was bled out and the damper rod had smooth consistent resistance all the way to the top? It might be worth double checking the clicker settings to make sure they are at the same settings as before. -Charles

@@rmatvmc Hi Charles, thanks for the reply! Yes exactly, when I take the bike of the side stand the bike will fall approximately 2 cm until you can feel the resistance of the spring/fork. This wasn't the case before the rebuild. I do believe the clicks are all right, since I adjusted them to stock settings. The only thing I didn't do is putting the damper rod adjuster in place before messuring the exact amount of oil. I did 10cm (so without the adjuster) but this still leaves me with a margin right? The only thing I can think of is that I made a mistake with bleeding the system since the example of the video, where you can see the "dead" spot when the damping rod is being pulled out, looks very familiar to the my bike falling down into the spring. If this makes sense.. So what is the best option to do, should I disassamble the forks, open them, take the spring out and start bleeding again? Greetings, Ilja

No driving necessary just open the tight one slightly with a flathead like how you remove it

Here's a link to the sales page that shows the parts we used in this video: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/2217/How-To-Rebuild-Fork-Seals-On-WP-Open-Chamber-Forks Hope that helps!

Yes it should be the same, but as always reference your bikes specific service manual for proper specs and capacities. Thanks.

Bang Cock The wp 4860 mxma is very similar but doesn’t have the spacer tube/extra bushings. It just has 2 bushings, the one bushing that seats in the outer tube (behind the seal/ring) and the one at the top of the inner tube. Everything else in the video applies and explains things very well, I just did a set of 4860 mxma’s off my 07 KTM 200 xc-w this afternoon.

This video looks exactly like what I found inside my wp 4860 mxma forks from my 2013 ktm 690 enduro r except for the big spacer below the guide bushings and the whitish plastic spacers between the cap and spring.

Sorry for my late response but 600 ml per 1 spring

Doubtful I think you need @600 ml per fork

I had to on my 03 exc 200 even after applying heat it wouldn’t bust loose. What i want to know is can I remove or at least loosen the lower nut/valve while still attached to the triple clamp?

@@bloodyholly11 it’s helpful to have spring pressure on the assembly when you are removing the bottom bolt, otherwise the damper assembly will spin. Using an impact and a quality well fitting (6 point) socket will get things loosen and tighten things up more easily so they can be torqued. Remove components by hand and get ready to catch the oil! Removing the damper assembly is t here only way to get the rest of the old oil and any debris from spring and bushing wear

probably $250-400 .?..

as always in mechanics, depends on your skillset and pysical and mental control over what youre doing and how you do it ... also you present this as an personal way of doing it e.g an "opinion" and nobody cares how you do it as long as you do it right and dont damage anything + if you manage to poke through those seals you should be repairing traintracks or something and not forks ....