Another helpful video, thanks Andy gotta repair mine too, got a code 32. And replaced everything but the solenoid, so I'll have to open it up and take a look... Now that I know what needs to be done
Great video. The reason there is so much corrosion is due to the design. The filter is not an air tight fit so moisture can work its way in around where it attaches to the solenoid. I coated mine with a thin coat of liquid electrical tape to seal the gap all around the filter. Also, those tiny clips that hold the valve end on the Solenoid can never make a perfect tight clamp - air and moisture can get in there too. So I coated it with liquid electrical tape as well. On the vacuum switch, mine was not corroded but a lot of fine dust was in there. It almost looked like a disintegrated filter sponge/gasket (hard to tell). On the sides of the switch cover, there are two tiny notches to let ambient air pressure in on the back side of the switch so it releases when no vacuum is present. I drilled one out and ran a tiny tube from it to a tiny air filter I mounted on top of the solenoid filter. Then I sealeded the perimeter of the vacuum switch housing with liquid electrical tape. Now, no dust will get inside the vacuum switch housing and moisture will not get into it so easily. A couple of dollars in material and a few minutes and I improved the reliability of the EGR Solenoid. Liquid electrical tape can be carefully trimmed/peeled off, so the Solenoid can be reworked in another 35 years.
I just tested my egr solenoid now. It works! 🙂👍 Im not sure but it feels like the engine runs better now. Less rich perhaps? The exhaust isnt as irritating on the air ways. I had to rewind the solenoid completely with new copper. Got an ohm value of 60, seems to have done the trick.
Where did you get the copper wire from? I'm gonna have to do this repair too, wanna have everything ready for a just in case purpose. And do u know how much you used?
@@Cus7ate9 Hey. I just used regular lacquered copper wire. 0,23 mm and 100m. I dont think its very critical since its just an electromagnet. Bought from a store called conrad.se. But any electronics shop should be able to provide. I have a few images on my instagram magnus_fiero on how I did it. The tricky part was getting the polarities right when assembly, both eletrically and the vacuum.
My EGR vac solenoids go bad semi frequently. Even the random news ones from the store half the time they arrive dead and non functioning . 1990 4.9 bronco
Thanks for making this video. However, you shouldn't skip some steps so we can actually see how you went thru all of the process. Instead of using clear package tape, you should have used heat shrink tubing. That would work much better to protect the coil.
My Jeep Comanche requires EGR Solenoid part # EF-8933002298. Mine doesn't work. I have struggled to get a new one. I want to know your thoughts on adapting in an AC DELCO W0133-1687705. I found a company that can supply the Jeep Connector and the GM Connector and I can splice the wires together, as to not affect the stock wiring, and it looks like the mount will be the same and the vacuum lines look like they will work without mod. My only concern is accidentally wiring it backwards; or, not having the proper voltage to actuate the solenoid. Appreciate your video.
301steady to be honest I’m not sure about your specific vehicle. I know some older GM vehicles can be interchangeable with minor modifications. I do believe you may have to chip the ECU or you might get a check engine light.
OK I give up, How do you remove the plastic ring with out destroying it? What does it look like out? I have tried and ruined one already. Is there a secret for removing the solenoid from the case, I had to drive the one out with a hammer. I have a bunch of these to try and repair, any help would be appreciated.
@@PhillipsVision Thanks for the quick answer. I will give it a try. Any ideas when the solenoid is rusted to the case. I tried the rust dissolver jelly but that didn't do it.
