How To Rebuild Your Motorcycle's Brake Calipers | MC Garage 

Next level MC Garage! Always good to see maintenance guides, thanks for making these

no garage is complete without the 80 flippin cans of brake cleaner in the background lol. Great job

MC garage series, the only videos on RU-vid I always hit that like button on!

Great 'to the point' video again from you guys. Really enjoy all the MC Garage vids. So many other RU-vidrs spend more time on BS and playing to the camera with their effects and acting crap, cannot stand watching them. Your stuff is always factual, to the point and no nonsense. Hats off to you guys.

Been working on a 98 CBR 600 F3 and right when I get one thing fixed the next goes wrong. Just got carburetors rebuilt, finally got started and not first though second test ride the front brakes decided to clamp shut upon pulling up to consummate. Thank goodness for this video.

Came here to find out what the correct seal orientation was. Your video answered my question. Thank you for an intelligent, no BS video.

Brilliant and straight to the point video ! I was scared to take the pistons out.(strong drag even after cleaning them on the calipers). Now I'm confident about it ! I will probably use the line to push them put as far as possible before disconnecting it. thank you for the top content!

This is precisely what I needed to know. Very clear and straight forward. Thank you for putting in the time to share your knowledge.

I've been riding for 49 yrs. and I absolutely love this channel, because I think most motorcycles (IMHO) get only marginal care at best. That being said, I know you cover the ONE thing that everyone should know how to do to the used bike they have just bought.. EVERYTHING. Thanks for you amazingly easy to follow and very accurate instruction.

Great video Ari but shouldn't you use new crush washers for the banjo bolts when you reassemble I don't know if you mentioned that but I always thought that you were supposed to use new ones ?

Thanks for sharing the MC garage series, it's very useful to us. But we don't have so many professional tools if we want to rebuild the motorcycle's brake calipers.

I just performed this periodic maintenance on my 2017 Kawasaki ZX-10RR. A few shared thoughts on my process: 1. I read the service manual several times for the corrext procedure, annotating torque specs, veeifying tools necessary, materials, supplies, etc. 2. I watch several RU-vid videos on the procedure. Save the best videos for reference. 3. Be vedy methodical in your process for removal, parts accountability, cleaning, reassembky, installation, and torque specs. Removal was the easy part, but I removed my calipers before I had all my brake caliper parts for reassembly. This was to ensure thorough cleaning. For cleaning, I set up a 3-Stage "station." Following a good toothbrush scrub down with soap and water, my first pan was for brake cleaner scrub. 30-60 seconds for my own procedure. Make sure you have thick nitrile gloves on. I sceubbed hard to rwmove brake dust with a toothbrush and blue dish scrungy pad. 30-60 seconds. Then I dunked it into my second pan of soapy water. Washed any residual brake cleaner off by hand and with a dust beush with 3 inch firm bristles. Last, I dunked in a pan of clean water. Massaged rhe entive brake caliper clean. Immediately upon removal, I used a MasterVac hot air blower and blew out any water. Got tge caliper 100% dey in all fluid chambers and body. Rwplacing tge fluid seals and duat seals on a mono block caliper sucks. But once you get the hang of it, it is easier. My most efficient means was to put my left index finger in behind the caliper to guide the seals in while my right hand fingers seated the seals in. Some I needed a pick tool to guide stubborn seals in. Once that was completed, I seated tge brake pads in. I had a hard time since I never did this. As I attempted to seat the pads down onto the spring, it kept sliding in on one side. So I used a 6mm hex key behind the brake pad to keep it from shifting in keeping it more in line as I seated the other side. Once the other side was seated into the grove, the hex key comes right out. Now, my big question is... what torque value are YOU using for the bleed valve? My seevice manual has to be incorrect. There is no way I can use 12 foot pounds on an 8mm hollow bleed valve. I will crush the bleeder. But that is what my service manual states. 12 foot pounds for the bleed valve. Banjo is 18 foot pounds. Caliper bolt 26 foot pounds. What should my bleed valve be?

I didn;t know that the seals had an orinetation. kept on wondering why the piston kept ripping my seals when I was trying to push them back. New seals have been ordered thanks for he tip!

Mates rebuilding cals, this is an excellent video to help him whilst I'm away 👍 like customer support for bikes

Your MC Garage how to videos are the best on the internet. Hands down. Another great job.

Always love MC Garage series, AH is the best host on the interwebs!

I always leave the lines connected, remove pads and Squeeze lever to get those pistons Out 1/2 Inch or less....then disconnect everything, and try channel locks, if it's trouble, I go RIGHT to compressed air. But always take advantage of that hydraulic pressure Early in the game....some older bikes, the pistons get Really stubborn....and that little bit of budge makes them a Thousand times easier to move.

Finally got my front brakes to work right by just a simple disassembly and cleaning, replaced lines with braided and bled. Smooooooootthhhhh as silk now instead of grabby.

Great video! I would love to know more about how the lip on the seal helps pull the pistons back into place after the pressure is off. I just powder coated and rebuilt the calipers on my street glide and I tell you the high-pressure seal looked the same no matter which way I flipped it.

These videos have saved me so much money. Feels really good to do your own work and have your bike ride like new again after. Thanx Guys!

You always make the steps clear and easy to follow. Thanks guys!!

My brakes were dragging (1990 bike) so I just did the seals. Stressed hard about orientating the piston seal with seal lip on the inside, but couldn't really tell by looking at the seals. I even pulled out one good seal to flip it after I figured I had it the wrong way around. Anyway I completed the job, but still wondered if I had done it right. After a google, it turns out many, if not most, piston seals are simply square and have no raised lip. The wedge type seals are apparently easy to spot.

Before going straight to a metal pick, try a wittled down popsicle stick or the end of a bent/hooked zip tie to try and get under the seal to lift it out. Much smaller chance of scratching the bore that way.

great video, seems ive been doing it wrong with red rubber grease that comes with the seals.. much prefer this

That's a nice looking KTM 950 👌🏻

After rebuilding my 05 gsxr 1000 brakes they definitely stopped dragging. Made a massive difference in braking. Just be sure to bleed them properly. Speed bleeders make bleeding much easier

Important note, on my yamaha fj1200 the service manual says NOT to split the caliper. I don't know about other bikes but checking service information is important

Lubing brake seals with brake fluid alone can cause excessive lever travel because the pistons won’t be able to slide freely enough against the seal. It’s better to lube them with silicone or red rubber grease. Brembo monoblocks actually have a warning with their rebuild kits saying preparing the pressure seal with brake fluid can cause excess lever travel or dragging brake pads.

"this is a beard level 3 in the beard scale of difficulty"

Damn man, nice to find this. Well done!

Good video, just got a nearly 30 year old bike for my 30 year old self recently, and everything needs work. I tried to fit some replacement pads today and the pistons were absolutely unmovable in the caliper, I figure it's about time for a rebuild.

Hi there, nice work. I've been watching your videos for a long time. A very nice tool to remove the pistons if you don't got a brake piston remover, is an External 90 Circlip Plier. Attached from the inner side of the piston with no chance of damage.

Very much needed this video ! Thanks a ton!

Right on time. About to rebuild my calipers soon.

3:40 that's why i have pressed the like button

Excellent video The only thing I would add, is when cleaning the calipers. Fill a container, like a food storage container (I use the cheap glassware you can get at a dollar store) with alcohol or WD40 or something to help clean them. Brake cleaner tends to evaporate a little fast for me.

For calipers with slide pins it's important to never put grease on the tip of the slide pin -> it could drive grease against the dead-end hole and cause a hydraulic lock which would prevent the slide pin from going all the way in, causing brake drag and burning up your pads and rotor. Super common issue when people DIY car brakes!

Awesome as usual

Great HOW TO!!

Geezer here. For a youngster, you're pretty smart!

4:12 Not always true, my Kawasaki service manual says to lube the fluid seal (inner one) with PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease (a type of silicone grease). I think any high-temperature, waterproof brake grease will work. I was going to use Permatex Silicone Ceramic Brake Lubricant for my next rebuild.

well done, quick and efficient, thanks!

Thanks for the video. I got this.

Another Great video Ari! Thanks for all the great instructional videos!

You can also lube the new seals and pistons with something called brake assembly fluid. Made specifically for that purpose. Got it on Amazon.

Love the maintenance tips and guides you guys provide..keep it up

Holy smokes, been working on my bikes for so long. I never thought to use vacuum caps

Haha, same cheap ass pliers i got ! Good job, Sr. ! Centering the caliper on the rotor it's a nice detail but not a MUST. The nature of the caliper/rotor arrangement will put those pistons where they need/want to be. What should never be forgotten it's pump your brakes to check your work and make sure you can stop when you set out for a test ride. P.S: Nice SuMo KaTooM.

Super helpful and very thorough. Thank you!

Looking like a young, buff Christoph Waltz

thanks for the tips! I gotta say, I would personally never use steel wool for this, as the grit tends to hide in tight places. You seem very knowledgable, this is just me being picky.

This may be a dumb question but shouldn't you use silicone grease on the pins instead of a petroleum-based grease to avoid deteriorating the boots?

Ha! I’ve seen too many videos. I think I recognize Zack’s bike.

I didn't know Steve Rogers have a youtube channel about bike maintainance, good work Captain America! Just kidding, ahahahaha! I love your show Ari, but I rarely see maintainance videos for classic bikes and neo retro ones. Ex. Drum breaks, how to clean, how to replace, how to maintain, etc. From us in the classice groove of things, we would greatly appreciate to quality videos of it. Until then, cheers and ride safe! 😂😂

Awesome work as always. Love these walkthroughs

best repair videos ever!

Amazing!!!!! i learn so much with you guys

Good job, but brake fluid is corrosive, do not forget the gloves.😄

Do not use air, pistons are not to be "fired" anywhere. Soak or drain old fluid out of reservoir and fill with fresh fluid and refit the lid. Undo the banjo and do it back up finger tight. Remove the caliper and jack the piston out with hydraulic pressure from the brake lever in a controlled manner over a plastic catch tray, checking as you go to make sure the reservoir is not empty. Ensuring the reservoir cap is on while doing it or you risk fluid coming back out of it in the bike as you pump it. When fluid escapes out the side of the piston you can remove it the rest of the way with fingers. Once the piston is out undo the banjo and store the hose end to stop it draining. When it goes back on the system has fresh fluid in it and no old fluid will enter the clean caliper.

Awesome as always, good job Ari !

Nice vid. Help me a lot with my S1000rr brembo brakes issues

Who's here after watching a Dave Moss video? So glad I have this in my tool belt and shocked I didn't know about frozen pistons before

Thanks. This was really useful to me.

I understand that this is the wrong video to post this comment, I love how you explain how things work on these 2 wheel machines. But I was wondering if you can make a video on advantages and disadvantages between link-less and linkage rear suspension. I have not seen any video covering it. Unless I was not looking very hard in RU-vid.

awesome vid!!! could you do a vid on how batteries loose charge over time how to diagnose the problem and how to fix it? (like while sitting in the garage for a week and the battery is completely dead.)

Another great video! Thanks for all the tips. I am particularly curious if you have recommendations for or want to make a video on fuel lines, sizing concerns, how to pick replacements for them, clear lines for flow visibility, adding in-line fuel filters, issues with flow due to restrictions in the line. I did not see a video in the playlist so I thought it pertinent to ask now. Thanks Ari!

Excellent work as always!

ANOTHER great video guys!!!

Excellent video informative and well detailed

Love this video

Just to say that not all seals use a chamfered edge, they may be square cross section (eg. Yamaha blue spots).

Always check your service manual for additional information on your exact calipers.

Good job

Very useful video. Thank you!

Excellent video! But please use gloves when handling brake cleaners and brake dust, that's nasty stuff.. :)

Can you please do a video about washing a bike ? Does water damage the bike with future corrosion? Does a cleaning foam spray is better? Thanks a lot guys 🤙🏼🍺

Thanks man✌

Shot in the dark: My 2017 Kawasaki ZX-10RR Service Manual dictates the front 8mm Master Cylinder Bleed Valve as 49-inch pounds torque. The rear 10mm Master Cylinder Bleed Valve as 71-inch pounds torque. However, the same service manual states the front caliper bleed valve, also an 8mm bleed valve, is 12 FOOT POUNDS TORQUE? I am certain this is a misprint and could be 12-inch pounds. But WTF? How am I supposed to trust the Service Manual with obvious incorrect torque specs? And I cannot get a clear response from Kawasaki of America to confirm this torque value. Why is this so difficult? I don't like "hand tight plus 1/4 turn." That's BS. If the bike has torque specs, they should be correctly applied. And tge "unspecified bolt torque" table is useless!! I used that procedue for another bolt and it stripped out the hole. My torque wrench is 1 month and it is working properly. Some bolts are either 1. Misprinted torque value in the Service Manual or 2. The torque value is printed correctly in the service manual with incorrect torque values from factory. I've crossed referenced Yamaha R1 and Honda CBR and of course, no torque value is the same but neither say 12 foot pounds. What the heck does "right" look like when the Service Manual is in question? I found several discrepancies while reading and studying the Service Manual. And, what gets me is, the print date is 2018. The new 2023 ZX-10R/RR have the same exact wording. So, there was no change since 2018 and an 8mm hollow bleed valve is no way 12 foot pounds of torque!!

I really like this video

nice to see new uploads! :)

If you guys can get your hands on a monster 696 or bigger can you guys do a video for the timing belt replacement .. please. Thank you

Hello, Could you do a segment on steering headbearings? Tapered vs ball. Thanks Karl Kelley

Great idea well done 👍 your videos have safe a lot and make me understand my bike. I have watch all most your videos 👏👏👏, pls I will like you to make video (how to service throttle body) because I have check almost your videos the similar one is how to service carburetor. Thanks

Cheers brother your vids are awesome!

Often I'm away for a few days a week and my bike is parked up outside as i don't have a garage. In the summer it's not a problem, but come the winter with the constant rain and cold my pistons are always ceasing up! It's a real pain! Is there an easy way to make sure they stay in good condition whilst away without having to remove them?

Great video man

Love your videos Ari! Can I seriously get you some boxes of gloves? I know you love working on bikes but many fluid are carcinogenic Since we are on brake mind going over the drum brakes too?

You mention one option is to use a rag and a plier to get the piston out, are there any other/better options? Also, I'd like to see a vid about how a quickshifter works, and if it's actually bad for your bike when you're not on the track. Could you clarify that in a next vid perhaps?

Nice! I want to go rebuild my brakes now...

Great vid as always. Can you please make vid about new motorcycle break-in? Thanks

Thanks

Dave Moss said not to lube the pins as it attracts brakes dust which is corrosive.

Can I use dielectric grease on slide pins or copper grease ?

I have niffan calipers. With Brembo Rotors. I really want to upgrade from 2 pistons up front to 4 pistons up front. As well as 1 piston in the rear to 2 pistons. What Brembo Calipers would I need for my 2006 Yamaha FZ6 Naked?..

Im putting my caliper back on and it wont fit anymore. the housing seemed to shift inward towards the caliper. any thoughts on how to fix.

I noticed some bikes have a normal disc brake and some bikes have a disc brake with teeth or something like that. And why does every disc brake has a hole on it and why motogp disc brakes doesn't have it? I hope you guys can bring up this topic. Much apreciate.

Get a service manual. The dust seals may recommend silicone grease like my CBR 600 when using OEM parts

Amazing videos. Keep it coming!!

dude plz make a video on engine teardown for duke including engine dismantling from chassis

can I upgrade a rear drum brake to a rear disc break, it would be so cool if you guys can make a video