@@kriswyche I noticed you spun the crank with a ratchet or breaker bar after assembly. Would it have sun freely and continued to spin by hand, or did it fee somewhat tight? Mine feels a bit tight, but turns by hand.
@@jw5031 it’s should take some force to rotate and it won’t spin freely like a wheel or bearing would. Mainly you’re just checking to make sure that it’s smooth and doesn’t stop or get stuck while turning.
I buyed a Nissan primera with a sr20 DE, the bad about it was that one of the pistons was loud, the crankshaft in the piston 2 was totally hurted, now im sending it to be filled by welding and setting all the seat to 0.25, hope it works well.
@@The_Loading_Cat imo the best option is to find a new crank or used one that is within spec, especially if using oem bearings since the clearances are so tight. i’m sure people have had the cranks machines before but make sure it’s done by someone who has experience with the SR platform !
God that first spin of the crank with full torque... I was holding my breath! last month I had the worst case scenario and my bearings were too tight. Delaying my build. 🤑
ahhh it happens, especially when using oem bearings and matching the number from the block and crank and stuff. nissan made this super precise. good thing is, the disassembly isn’t too bad as long as you spin it as soon as the crank ladder is on
@@kriswyche That's literally what I did. Matched the crank and block stamps. In reality they should've been 2 sizes smaller and then the fit would be immaculate. Going with ACL bearings next week though just want the car running 😭
One additional thing I would have done is had the crank cleaned and polished, looked a bit dirty but probably ok. Which Rod bearings did you end up going with?
Yeah the one I had machined looked super mint, but I picked this one up with low mileage in good condition, just has coloring from oil nothing crazy. I ended up going with clevite standard size bearings.
@@Grainsauce yeah the oem one was more accurate. I could use the machine one but I would have to use some expensive micrometers to confirm the journals sizing and also wanted to use standard bearings so everything is as close to stock as possible
i didn’t. only important thing for my rings was the order in which they were installed and the positioning of the ring gaps on install. although there is a method on some builds where you compress the ring and verify the gap using feeler gauges, i didn’t bother since my pistons and rings were all OEM manufactured
am i the only one having issues. all my bearings are to loose but when i torque it down with arp studs i cant move the crank. question. who are the two guys you talk to who been building these for 15 years?
so anytime you use arp main bolts or rod bolts, due to the higher clamping force required you have to either have the block line honed or the rod ends honed/reshaped. I had my shop fully install the arp rod bolts to spec and then check the rod bore to see if they were thrown out of round and they were not. I used oem main bolts to avoid needed to have my block line honed.
if you are using oem bearings the fitment process gets even more complicated but its easy to understand. it requires a good bit of math and matching of bearing grades because these motors run extremely tight and precise fitment with oem bearings.
