Refrigerator/Freezer Recharge Kit with Piercing Access Valve: amzn.to/3WhOuUc Tool Deals on Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita & More: acmetools.pxf.io/9gRWRy Tip Jar: www.paypal.com/paypalme/bensahlstrom You guys are awesome. As an affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Весы не нужны , ЕСТЬ линейка холодильщика на манометре , доза Р - 134 , давление при работающем М К плюс 0,2 бар , температура кипения будет минус 24°С , этого хватит для отключения питания М К по температуре .
Very good presentation. I worked in the field for many years on a lot of large equipment running AZ-50 at 25" of vacuum. When you get a leak in that, you have a major job on your hands! I wish I had the tools that are available today, it would have made things a lot easier. Just remember, when you think you've seen it all, you haven't!! You will make a good instructor!!
Excellent DIY video Ben. Clear, concise, informative without all the lead in hype and crappy background music so common among content creators. Your knowledge of coolant system diagnosis and repair is impressive and I assume this is more than a passing hobby for you. I have only recently began looking into how to repair a fridge and there is certainly more to it than one might guess. Thank you for the exception quality how to video.
Awesome timing Ben. For months my under cabinet ice maker has been making less and less ice. Then no ice last week. I half knew how to do this, but I put the piercing valve on and just tried to dump a can in. I didn't realize to bleed the line or that it would be such a slow feed. So I put my vacuum pump on it, drew it down and started over with a new can. Used my kitchen scale to weigh in 4ish ounces. Been making ice like new. Thanks.
You did a perfect job, I have been 40 years in this business and I testified that you did everything write , and very nicely explaining ,congratulations . Good luck to you
If these appliances need a recharge, there is a corrosion pinhole leak somewhere on the aluminum tubing. Over time aluminum tubing in insulated wall sweats reacts and causes that. Also aluminum connection to steel or copper tubing corrode. When charging, use the amp meter to not go over the compressor rating of a full charge when appliance is running.
Why charge to compressor amps? Works for design, but if your got a lazy comp it’s not accurate. Capillary charge to frost line or subcooling. Or just simply weigh it in as per manufacturer recommendations. Do it by feel. Whatever way makes you happy. You seem opinionated best tech in town aye bud
R134a refrigerant is a single component and does not need to be inverted for liquid filling. It is safer to just use an upright refrigerant tank for gaseous filling, because the compressor inlet must be gaseous. The suction of liquid refrigerant into the compressor will damage the outlet valve.
I'm pretty sure for automobile air conditioning you don't want liquid dumping straight in...besides every small can I've ever used eventually gassed off and emptied into the system. Even the large bottle i used when rebuilding some automobile air conditioning compressors eventually completely emptied. So I was very surprised to see many techs inverting the bottle. Seems counterintuitive to me. My Machinest Mate at my unit in the military would sit the large tanks in a trash can with warm water. Someone in the know should clear this up. Thanks!
R u sure? I discharge R-134 into an old propane bottle that I evacuated. If I open the valve while in the upright position, gas comes out. If I invert it, liquid refrigerant comes out. I am sure of that. Even the container says liquid one way, and gas the other. So I respectfully disagree. And I have been charging automotive units since we were using R-12.
Torquing to full stop with repeat insertions could cause leak. If you rely on threads to locate the seal point it might not return to full sealing force (needle to tube). For example: my piercing valve is 3 turns stop-to-stop ymmv. Go in ~2 1/2 turns to pierce, then back off and charge. Then in to light torque to ~2 3/4 turns, which is plenty for the 30psi resting pressure. Then you know the seal force is point-to-tube instead of thread-to-thread. This also allows for increased depth needed for future recharges.
I think that your videos are very informative and useful the way you explain yourself its easy to understand and in some of your videos is easy to understand what you are doing and please keep making the videos as like I said the way you explain and I saw another video where you explain how to connect the hoses and how to charge the system thank you for your videos 😂😂
@@yomomma9070 I see. Also, I didn't realize the valves on the coolant cans were Schrader capable. I just thought of another thing.....to put the Schrader valve in, the entire system needs to be bled and recharged, correct?
@@TheZooBrooksAB that's the way I've done it. I will use the piercing type shown in this video to recover any remaining refrigerant then braze access fittings onto the process tube for permanent installation. You may be able to braze onto the process tubes after the crimp, idk. I've never attempted heating on a charged system; I was taught not to.
After watching 10 or 12 other video's on this topic, I found yours to be the most straight forward and helpful. I need to recharge a Sub-Zero 532 and am located in a remote area where there are no technicians. I have all the parts, pieces and refrigerant and wanted to ask if it would it be possible to consult (hire) you to assist me in the recharge process? Much appreciated.........Cliff
You are really gifted. In explaining this. I watch the other video where you open to view the inside. That really help my brain see the what's going on inside other bodie of big talkers try to explain the start and relay which I did finally understand but seeing the inside I got the picture. It's looks like a air compressor which I didn't know. Any way thank you I will be watching more one more. Where can I buy commercial refrigerator parts cheap.
Very thorough video. You definitely should have pinched off the process stub, removed the bullet valve, and brazed it shut. Those valves are always going to leak. The process for r290(propane) is exactly the same. You just have to be sure to vent out the old gas in a well-ventilated space, pull a good vacuum and charge it back up. It is such a small amount of r290 that you done have to worry too much about it’s explosive properties. But never leave the piercing valve on a system.
The valve allows him to come back and recharge it. Remember, this isn’t a professional perfection job the system wasn’t evacuated. he’s telling people how to add refrigerant for no money which could be very helpful to a less fortunate family 🙂
Your video was excellent from a practical point of view. However the way you purged your hoses contaminated your tank. If you repeat that incorect purge you'll contaminate your tank more with each service call. Before opening valve on tank, both valves on gages must be open and the distal ends of both red and blue hoses open to atmosphere. Loosely attaching blue hose to bullet valve and loosely attaching unused red hose to back of gage will accomplish this. Now open valve on tank and quickly tighten blue hose to bullet valve, quickly close blue guage valve, quickly tighten distal end of red hose, close red guage valve. Charge 5 -6 psi suction but no more than 10.
Not only a great informative video, but you also preemptively covered those (tree nuggets )who are gonna whine that you should fix the leak. I agree that an ounce or two leaking every few years is a non issue to the environment. I justify that by looking at my hairless head. I save the environment daily by not needing hairspray.
Great video! But I hope you did not replace that freezer. Freezers of that size are very difficult to find now. And the cost of this repair is 277 times less than the average new 20 cu. ft. upright freezer. I watched this video because I live in an apartment where the PM won't repair or replace the failing refrigerator. I wanted to understand what could be done to repair it. Thanks to this video I discovered I can buy a used $50 refrigerator in good condition and just recharge the silly thing.
Nice job. Probably should take that piercing valve out though and braze in a shrader valve. That might slow the leak down too. They say those pircing valves vibrate loose.
I'd like to ask a question with hopes you can answer it. I believe my son's Frigidaire needs a 'recharge" of Freon (R-134a). It's about 13-15 y/o and since it lost cooling capacity over the winter I 'm doubting any leaks. Actually, there's no reason to suspect leaks for it wasn't disturbed in any way. I've been told Freon will lose it's cooling ability over a given amount of time. Seems a recharge is the answer. Please comment. TY
Excellent video. I would love to see a video of these gauges in full operation. I have a cheep set of the harbor freight ones. Something about Gilligan and primitive come to mind.
Required 4 oz. Charged to 4oz plus 1oz already in system then charges gas left in hose probably 1 to 2 oz. Yes, overcharged for sure. High head pressure will possibly end the compressor life.
you don't need a scale nor need to know how much gas there is in it, all you have to do is add a bit at a time and wait for the suction pressure to settle, once it settles around 5-6 psi its done to factory charge, you can charge it no more than 10 psi to compensate for leakage so it lasts longer but the suction line to the compressor will frost up for some time until the gas level reaches the factory charge or 5-6 psi, not a good idea if the unit is sitting on a carpet or a timber floor, every time the compressor stops the frost on the line will melt with water dripping under it, check the valve for leak with soapy water after closing.
What if your top evaporator is ice cold like it's supposed to be but your bottom freezer evaporator R&B's french door refrigerators is not getting cold or freezing like it's supposed to ? Any suggestions ?
since you have the digital gauges and clamps, would it have been best to measure the superheat at your operating condition vs weighing the refrigerant?
Yup! Very Thankful for this detailed no nonsense Instructional video. It gave me enough information to add 134A to our 2002 Kenmore Bottom Freezer which wasn’t keeping temps in freezer, compressor running full time except when defrost timer kicked in. Condenser coils were barely warm 83 f. Compressor only running 27 minutes now and freezer staying -2 to -12f. Almost kicked this refrigerator to the curb but really like simple old skool design without all the electronics and computer board. Thanks Again!!
Piercing valve is just asking for trouble ,charging cylinder is recommended for accuracy . Also need to check superheat , and subcooling to determine system efficiency. There is no need for hacks in the HVAC/R world. Its either the right way. Or the wrong way.
FYI you should have just taken that piercing valve put on a street of core removal tool or a t hooked up your line pressurized and then just tapped on the Schrader to get any air out that would be in the perfect thing then you could open the Pearson valve
When charging a partially charged system like you just did, how did you decide how much refrigerant to add without knowing just how much was in the system? Is there a specific low side operating pressure that you can watch the gauge for?
When you are "topping off" a system it is mostly a guessing game. I would say that if you have a unit that is no longer working but still cools a tiny bit you can safely add at least 75% of the nameplate charge. As I said in the video having a slight overcharge in a system that you know has a tiny leak isn't the end of the world since it will not be very long before it loses that bit of extra refrigerant. FishFind3000 is correct that the only accurate way to know for sure that you have the correct charge is to evacuate the system and recharge it with the factory weight. Adding refrigerant to a leaking system is a last resort and is not a permanent fix. I'll try to make a video showing the process of fixing a leak and recharging a system at some point in time. This video is mostly to demonstrate and explain the unfortunate multi-year leak scenario and how you can make it work in the short term.
Ted, the unit was almost empty. By adding 4oz I slightly overcharged it but that was deliberate. It's just a way of making a unit with a known leak last a tiny bit longer between top-offs. It's not perfect but there's not really a better option other than fixing the leak or, if it can't be located, replacing the unit.
As far as pressures go the low side should stay in the 1 psi range for a r134a unit but I've found that it isn't always perfectly consistent depending on the unit. If the freezer is at about 0 F then the pressure should be around 1 PSI on the low side.
Great somebody's actually saying it about the inflammable refrigeration but you can't say too much it'll flagging the hell out of people Sainsbury's about 90% offer refrigeration out there they're not right can't say no more I will not work I'm in for the last 15 years as a top refrigeration and air conditioning engineer well done McKenna
The "Older" refrigerators and freezers used R12 or R22 Both of these refrigerants were banned. The gases would escape and float up into the air then destroy some of the ozone in our atmosphere. Now our ozone levels are recovering and fewer harmful solar rays will hit us. You did a good job on this freezer fix and showed that you can prolong the lifespan of a appliance instead of trashing it.
Video is for most part good but with the unit being a critical charge unit I would have done it a little differently, I would remove the entire change and then add the required amount. That extra refrigerant in the hoses might have put the charge over the top considering the amount already in the refrigerator is not known
I would have read a gauge not dumping by weight. U can turn the valve on, turn it off, let the system regulate. Read the gauge. Rinse and repeat til u get the correct psi.
If I purchase a small can of R134a, could I use a regular kitchen scale to measure ounces, or does it have to be a special refrigerant scale? Thanks! Great informative video!
Great video. But novice question: in this video you suggest suction pressure at 6-7psi. My fridge was powered down in hot climate for 9 months, and when I turned it on, it did not cool. Since I did not know the amount of remaining refrigerant in the system , I probably overcharged it to get to 7psi on the charge valve, and put ~6 (?) ounces of R134 instead of recommended 5 oz from the label. So now the fridge is working better than perfect, but the suction pipe gets frosted nearly up to the compressor. Is it dangerous? And if so, is it possible to remove some refrigerant from the system and how? I have seen other videos where the recommended suction pressure is ~2-3psi. If i try to bleed it, it bleeds with oil also, which is not good...
All your videos that I have watched so far have been excellent. The only thing that sort of throws me a curve ball is the expensive gauges, meters and such that sort of make it not applicable to my budget. It would be helpful if there was a way that you could use reliable but inexpensive equipment for the videos for some of us. Just a suggestion. Jesus bless.
A different video says the piercing valve has to be on the suction line. Looks like you can also use the original fill spur? Guess I should have watched the entire video first. You answer my question later in the vid. Sorry.
Man oh man, you are THE AC Man! If I were wanting to go into HVAC, I would ask to be your apprentice. Thanks for the details. I'm only planning on using a small 12 oz can, or whatever they weigh, but I understand the concept now. I have a large Vintage Kenmore chest freezer that is taking a long time to cool after replacing the Relay. The Solenoid is cycling less frequently as it cools down. It's a closed system manual defrost BTW. I have it set to "Flash Freeze" for over 24 hours since I changed the part. The compressor runs nonstop. The sidewall above the compressor is the coldest side and is only 15° F. It should be around zero. Do you have any suggestions?
Update, the solenoid was buzzing and cycling on and off erratically for days. It is a part that's no longer available. I prayed about it and actually think God made it work! It no longer is doing it and the freezer dropped down below 0°F ! It seems to be working fine now. How about that? ☕😄👍 Here's a blessing for you. I hope you like this as much as I have. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3BCl_qkqVVo.html
Hello 👋 sorry for bothering, my refrigerator works but everytime started, sounds like drag and kick affecting the rest of the accessories like tv or air conditioner, what can I do? Thanks for your help.
Most of the time if you here that click on and off every few seconds it is the relay and O.L. That needs replaced.. I have also found that a leak as small as the one you have.One that is hard to locate.A stop leak agent works well .
That bullet valve is leaking 100%. Best practice would have been to remove the process stub and replace it with a service valve. Replacing the filter drier with a UV filter could possibly reveal the leak and allow for high side liquid charging. In a pinch what this tech is doing works. If it is a low side evaporator leak, this wouldn’t be advisable as atmosphere and moisture would be in the system.
@@wallyblackburn johnstone supply 1/4” copper service valve. I believe a part number is SV8404. Remember to remove the valve core before brazing it on.
hello dear I saw your video for adding the refregant in the system about r134a but if you did vacuum that could be better you have Got negative pressure sorry for disturbing you .
@Benjamin Sahlstrom is there a reason you would not want to use one of the A/C stop leak ~type products? I understand that over charging with one might cause a blockage or at the very least is limiting the capacity of 134a in the freezer. However, if it works as advertised and would stop a slow leak, then what would be your concerns with using such a product?
Nice, I refresh my mind. I wish I see what is the actual High Side and Low Side Pressure. I read about 6psig when you charge it for Low Side. Other video says 2-3psi is enough.
Shouldn't you vacuum the old freon out before adding new? Also, it would be good if you could use a regular gauge, like most guys have. Yours is really nice, but it doesn't tell me much per mine.
Awesome video and very informative. So if my refrigerator compressor runs for 12 seconds then clicks off then my compressor is probably bad? I was hoping maybe it is just low on freon. The evaporator coils were frozen and now after defrosting it just clicks on and off. Thank you again
I will try this your technique on my 2003 Frigidaire commercial freezer. May be i can resurrect it. My fzr stopped running after 13 years then i noticed a large puddle on the floor. i had to get all the food out and buy another freezer. i do hear some off/ on clicking but i do feel vibration on the compressor . after letting it run 4 hours, there is no temperature difference on the LS or HS of the refrigerant lines. thus there is not frosting on the evap coil in the freezer. My condenser coil is in the side walls liked you described.
Should the compressor be very warm almost hot to the touch. The freezer is barely freezing but still working. It was making clicking sounds but hasn't for some time seems like it might have seized but it still is getting cold but not cold enough
What a great video. Very well done, thank you. Two questions: 1) I have a gauge set, but it's been used on an auto A/C systems and likely has some dye and oil contamination in it. What solvent should I use to clean the hoses and the inside of the gauge body? 2) I presume automotive 134a is OK to use on a 134a fridge, but I've heard that automotive 134a cans might also have oil in them. Is there a way be sure that the can I use is pure 134a and doesn't have anything else in it? Thanks!
Do you know why pressure increases at the low side when compressor is off? But when charging, the internal pressure was very low. This increase in pressure always causes the overload to cut out the compressor because the compressor is drawing a lot of currents for quite sometimes due to build up very high pressure at low side when compressor turns off. Currents of about 3 amperes.
I have water dispenser combine with mini refrigerator (before watch your video)we add r134a Freon With bullet piercing and adapter so 80%of condenser getting warm but piercing value starts to freezing on this sine I want to know we add right amount of Freon or still need it Thanks for Answer
Ben I just watched your video about charging 134a to a freezer that has small leak from 3 years ago. I believe I see where your leak may be. At the end of your process tube it looked like it had been crempted off but no weld. Just wandering.
