I learn so much watching this channel. I appreciate all the effort into the video production. Scott's mode of teaching is so clear, and has a great voice too. Thanks!
I just want to say thank you for pointing out the importance of using a respirator even if you are in a well ventilated area. I see more people use it as an excuse not to wear a respirator. Like the vapors are going to go around their face just because there's a breeze!
I'm glad you appreciate that. I know some retired woodwokers with permanent health issues from the work, so I do my best to educate people about PPE. Scott
I worked in a custom furniture shop for many years, and in addition to building high end furniture and architectural millwork I ran the finishing room. We often took on some refinishing, repair and conservation projects. I found the best stripper to be KS3. It makes short work of removing any finish, even epoxy. You have to be careful to wear a respirator and use eye and skin protection as it contains methyl chloride which will burn your skin. Maple is almost impossible to stain without getting splotchy, though NGR applied with a spray gun works fairly well if you are careful. Tinting the topcoat is also an option. For surfaces that take a lot of wear I like spar varnish, though I've also had good luck with catylized lacquer.
Excellent video! Your videos are some of the most comprehensive DIY's I've seen....because not only do you go to great lengths to explain the processes involved, you also explain the most common mistakes and what to look out for. Well done, sir!
That's great to hear! I have 4 coats of floor polyurethane on my oak bar top. It's the most durable type of polyurethane you can buy. Very strong chemicals, but with a window extraction fan, I was able to contain the fumes to one room of the house. Cheers. Scott
Yes, this was recorded in October. I've been very busy so only recently had time to edit and publish the video. It's all snowy outside right now! Cheers.
Great Instruction. I was holding my breath when I saw you put the open can on the surface. I know if I did that, I would have a ring, drips or knock it over!!
Glad you liked it. I suppose putting the can on the surface is a risk. To be honest, I didn't think of that but thank you for mentioning it. Cheers. Scott #tip
Might I suggest you try 3M's Cubitron sand paper? From what I can see, it does not get clogged as much (or at all). They say that the cost over time is comperable to any other inexpensive sand paper because how long it lasts. Other wood working channels have really touted its properties. Oh, BTW, kudos to your camera person (outside with staining). It took me a little time to realize the camera was moving and the shots were perfect. The best camera person is the one where it is completely unnoticable. Great work as always.
Thanks for the suggestion and the feedback. My wife and business parter, Laurie, is the camera person. She did her first filming in the Trafalgar Castle videos and did a great job. I'll pass along your complements. She will be thrilled. Scott
@@FixingFurniture She deserves the accolades. I watched the Castle videos. They were neat. Again, if you don't notice the camera work, the operator has done their job.
I have a quarter sheet sander... I don't remember where I learned this, but if you back your sandpaper with duct tape, it makes the paper harder to rip or tear. Works for me! 💖🌞🌵😷
This was great to watch. You are an excellent teacher-I appreciate that you explain why you choose to do things a certain way or use a tool or product over another one.
Glad it was helpful! I've seen so many confusing and conflicting finishing tips over the years so I wanted to make this as easy for viewers to follow as possible. I'm glad that came through for you. Cheers. Scott
Delightful video! Very informative and well delivered. Perhaps at some point you can make a video where you discuss temperature considerations for finishing furniture. For example, it is summer here in Utah and I want to refinish a large dining room table (seats 12). However, I'm concerned about having uneven results due to the heat of summer. I would be delighted to hear your strategy for working with large surfaces, considering ambient weather conditions.
The steel wool trick is new to me. It's always a challenge fighting the dust nibs and irregularities, but that should help. I've already got a bottle of the Howards feed n wax. Thanks!
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Thanks so much. I always learn from your posts. I have a small end table that my granddad made (I think it’s cherry?) that needs a refinish. Hopefully I’ll get it done correctly.
Thanks for posting another informative video! I was wondering if you you'd make a video or had made a video on using wood hardener to stop wood rot. I have a chair that has some wood rot and I cannot nail into it to reupholster. Could you maybe address that in an upcoming video and what is good to use or if it's a good idea to use? Thanks!
Thanks for the suggestion Tracee. We rarely see furniture in our area that has wood rot, but I will keep that in mind with what comes through the shop. My approach to solving this as a woodworker is to replace the rotted parts of the wood versus using an epoxy type hardener to try to stabilize compromised wood. I hope that helps. Scott
I've had problems where the poly reactivates the stain and leaves an uneven finish. I've found using spray shellac to seal the stain before applying poly can be very helpful.
I love using shellac. You may have a situation where the stain isn't fully wiped off and let rest before applying the poly. Once a stain goes on, it shouldn't be disturbed by the finish. A word of caution for you - the several brands of poly that I've used state on the label they should not be used over shellac. I heard many times that shellac sticks to anything, and anything can be applied over top, but after reading a few poly containers, I've become cautious. I hope that's helpful.
Excelente explanação sobre as diferentes técnicas de remoção do acabamento, vantagens e desvantagens de cada uma delas e ótimas dicas de como aplicar o verniz poliuretano. Seus vídeos são sempre muito claros e didáticos Scott! Sou do Brasil e aprendo muito com você! Obrigado pela sua dedicação e disposição em compartilhar seus vastos conhecimentos. Parabéns e muito sucesso!!! 👏👏👏👏👏
I really enjoyed this video. I'm just now starting to experiment with the rubbing out process. I just wanted to let you know that Howards wax does have hydrocarbons in it. I recently looked at its SDS on the Home depot website.
Scott i have arthritis in my hands and card scrapers are on the hard side for me to use. I use a Stanley No.80 cabinet scraoper it works great and with the handels there is no heat to burn your hands
I love your videos They are detailed education, not just entertainment I have a large 2 piece pine cabinet that my mom had on her sun porch The cabinet is beautiful but the finish is teribly worn I like rustic but my wife prefers perfect The delima is that for my wife to accept the piece into our house i must refinish Its easy to card scrape a table top, but not a detailed cabinet with trim What are my options? Again this is pine so its not going to ever look fine like walnut I just retired and have the time, should i pass or tackle the job? Again its a beautiful cabinet but will never be worth much because of the pine, is that true?
@@FixingFurniture Hey Scott, I use a heat gun and scrapper to remove old finishes. works well on the vanishes. I prefer that than using any sort of chemical, if i have a choice. Not sure how that works on the likes of shellac/french polishing. As said though, I'm very much and amateur/hobbyist. Made way too many mistakes...
I do suppose though, that you need to be careful not to apply too much heat and burn the workpiece. but generally, the old finish comes of very easily, and only light cleanup sanding is required.
@FixingFurniture I used to clean houses and businesses for a living...it was awful and danger...but I digress from what I want to say... That blackened gummy texture is primarily from sweaty body parts repeatedly touching it (not trying to gross people out)...it takes a while...it's not just the finish breaking down. I've cleaned many surfaces over the years including formica... The other thing I'd point out is dust, flour and other fine particles will hang in the air for 3 days...gyprock dust is the worst. Thanks for the tips. What type of bristles do you use for your brushes? I can't stand using steel wool...is there a 3m innovations version I can use? (Btw...3m innovations now has a cubitron sandpaper that's supposed to be superior because it doesn't clog up as much...haven't had a chance to use it yet.) My whole life I was told sand with the grain. Hubby bought me an orbital but I've yet to use it...since you have both kinds...what is your opinion on the differences? Do you ever use heat to remove finish? What do you do to remove finish in detailed areas like scroll work? On a completely alternate note...I'm loving the cabinet hanging over your workbench! Do you have a video showing it being made?
I used a belt sander but it got gummed up even worse and belts are even more expensive. For sanding I'd recommend the cheapest thing possible and replace often. But scraping is way better - a card scraper will probably cost what you'll trash in sandpaper anyway
No, the "wood conditioner" is a solvent type of liquid that prevents the wood from absorbing too much stain. Shellac would behave very differently and is not used as a pre-stain treatment. I hope that helps. Scott
No. If an organic cartridge respirator has a good seal on your face, you will not smell the finish. If I let my beard get long, I can smell it. If you wear a mask or a particle filter respirator, you will smell the finish as it can't block the fumes. I hope that helps.
Shellac and lacquer are two different finishes. Here's a video on how to test what finish you have - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xp4layfBXkA.htmlsi=qSDO5rAQ5fll-mqz If you're looking for shellac, I like making mine from shellac flakes, but you will need to decide what colour you want. For dark wood, I suggest garnet shellac. Happy to coach you on this project if you like - see our Advice Sessions woodenitbenice.ca/collections/all
I've never rolled a finish on furniture. I can't comment on if that's effective or not. My thought is that cleaning the roller and a brush is more work than using just a brush. Cheers. Scott
i added glass tops to all my tables etc the ex got. some glass shops slow day were really cheap. but now who cares.. i use plastic sheeting like convertible windows clear wipeable wood stays perfect. windex can be used. it doesnt break. I put world monies under plastic looks cool. also on custom painted shelves i use it to protect the paint, perfect..tap plastic has it. Its great for my carved inlaid round table dust was a bear to remove, not now.. perfectly clear..
Unfortunately, there isn't an easy answer for that to do yourself. It's best to find someone with years of experience to look at it. As a reference, the "wood database" is a good website to look up properties of different wood.. Cheers. Scott
It was important to show us the face of his watch but not the face on the can of polyurethane he used. Like most RU-vid channels the most important things are left out
