@@johnghatti5435 there are many ways to remove broken studs etc, it all down to training and skill, drilling out and heli-coil being a popular method in the aero industry.
Thats happened to me so many times I dont even bother with those taps, they always break off in there and are as hard as a drill bit so drilling that out after is near impossible. Best to just drill the bolt through and pull the bits out with a pick or re-tap the thread if its messed up.
left hand drill bit would drill the same circular hole in the other direction no? Also not stripped, as he wound it out on the perfectly function threads. Rounded out would be the term.
@@DigitalArtisan77 Correct, it would drill a circular hole spinning in the opposite direction. The process of the left hand bit biting into the material is normally sufficient to break the screw loose. If it doesn’t, gradually increase size until you either remove the screw or you have removed enough threads to run a tap through it.
@@anything6398 Yes they are, and yes they are. Anyone who has ever attempted to use them in a recessed or flush screw will tell you, they seldom ever actually work. If the screw is still under pressure or is corroded, the action of the “Easy out” attempting to wedge its way into the remaining material of the screw actually causes the body of the screw to expand very slightly. This in turn wedges the screw into place even more. Making it ever more difficult to remove.
@@DigitalArtisan77 you would need an multiple drill bits left handed. Easy outs are cheaper than buying every size in drill bit that's all I mean. Your way is good too.👍💯👍
@@jasonritter2492 I call bs these things suck 90% of the time iv been working on cars my hole life and these barely work right the square ones r better
I've worked on planes for 21 years, we've used these and the stubby 1/2" drive variant. These work fine 99% of the time. Choose the right drill size, keep tapping as you spin, works just fine.
I usually end up snapping the extractor in the bolt I've drilled out. But that's on M6 and smaller bolts usually with the smallest 2 extractors. Major pain
@@DigitalArtisan77 I will say the stubby MAC easy outs are some of the best I've used. They just don't go small enough for the bolts I tend to work with most of the time.
@@samhillyersh you are making a joke but I'm not. Normal drill bits are right handed and when used youbrotate the clockwise. That would tighten a bolt. A left hand drill needs to be spun the opposite direction and could loosen a bolt.
@@cbrunnem6102 does it actually though? Because in a hole thats not a blind hole, (accessible from both sides) I've yet to see a RH drill bit push the screw through the hole, so why would. LH bit pull it out?
@@mike6932 amen to that, the best most effective way for me that is, mig a washer to the broken bolt then mig a nut to that the heat from the weld goes into the bolt too then it should Possably maybe come straight out no problem lol
These are the same thing as a Tap & Dye set with a "T" handle to turn them the "T" handle fits these extractor sets also if you need it put more plainly they even have ratchet "T" handles for the tap and die that fit the extractor taps
@@edwardvankirk3515 thanks for that but unfortunately when you put it plainly for me it confused me more. I just can’t seem to visualise a ratchet T handle on a die stock.
I’ve got the same set of easy- outs. However, he used the crescent wrench BACKWARDS! It can sometimes work that way but it works much better when used properly.I was a mechanic for large manufacturing companies so I know of what I speak.
я слыхал что есть способ, розсверлить убитый болт, и нарезать в нём левую резьбу, и вкрутить туда собственно болт с левой резьбой, до упора, и оно выкрутиться
The problem is easy outs don't work 2/3 of the time they break off inside and then you have hardened steel to deal with as well I found that before I start twisting on the EZ out if I take a torch and heat up the area around the bolt that I'm trying to remove helps immensely the heat from the torch makes the metal around the bolt expand a couple thousands of an inch or so but it helped break the rust loose
Craftsmen tools are not the highest quality, but they make a way better extractor kit. The bits have a 13mm head, use a socket and ratchet or a 13mm wrench in a tight spot. They also make an external extractor set for bolts with stripped heads.
drill the head out first, if the bolt hasn’t bottomed out it should only be tight on the shoulder then you can use an easy out or left hand drill bit. doesn’t always work but it’s a good starting point if welding a washer and nut doesn’t work
Take a socket torx bit and hammer it in the rounded hole. Then use a ratchet to remove. Doesn't always work but way quicker and easier than this for a first step
Tried this trick several times to absolutely zero success. That bolt face was rusty, but had definitely been removed before trying to use the Left handed drills etc as there was zero rust around the bolt.
